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  1. #121
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    To be honest, i sencerely doubt we will wrench that much less on the Flux They also bend/loose dogbones, blow outdrives, strip internals, blow tranny`s, shocks etc..

    But just as the modded e-revo, its a strong truck, so as a second car, i think it will be alot of fun.. Most important to me, is that i get to have a car in working order while i order parts, or mod, the other car

    I do have some slop between the bearing and RCM cup, but i`m not sure how much.. I think its room for a shim, but not a very thick one..
    But what is youre theory on this? Are you hoping for this shim to take most of the sideways hit, and distribute the forces out to the bearing instead of sending it to the sun gear/pin?

    I`ll take a rcm cup off today, and measure the slop

  2. #122
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    Yes I agree, at a certain level of abuse ( our level ) something just has to give in, I guess time will tell how it goes.

    Yes! I really think that is the reason, think of it, if you have slope there, all the force from the driveshaft will push the stubaxel straight on that internal gear. If you remove the slope the plastic diffcup itself will have to take the force and eventually fail like mine did once. Then just get alu cups, problem eventually solved if the cup is hard enough

    Speednut07:

    Thanks, here you go










  3. #123
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    Ok, i went wrenching again, and im sort of glad i did even though i`m getting tired of everything breaking on me all the time.
    I`ve been through 6 sets of battery`s last 2 weeks, and thats all i`ve managed between wrenching and waiting for parts.

    The diff has sideways slop inside the alu housing allready, only after 3 sets of 5s. Dont know why this happens, as it was perfect tight when i built it....
    When i built it, i used 1 shim on the opposite side of the ringgear side, just as it came from factory. All parts where brand new, even the housing. Now i had to use 2 shims on this side to take away the slop. So now its tight in the alu house again, and the pinion/ring-gear is also ok tight.
    My new front diff is only 2 battery sets "old" , and has no slop.

    BUT the reason for this wrenching session, was the shims between the RCM cup and bearing..
    I had some 1.2x6x12mm shims here, so i mounted them in. They fit, but i would prefer 0,8x6x12mm as the rcm cup grub-screw holes doesnt line up 100% with the hole in the stub axle now. But it sits tight, and shouldnt make any problems for me..

    If it helps, remains to see.

    I`ve been stupid enough to drive alittle with a broken rear skid, so one of the bulkhead sides was broken too So lucky me, i get to wait for parts again (i got bulks on the way from tower, ordered a week ago.)

  4. #124
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    After mounting everything back together, i can tell the 1.2mm shims is way to tight to fit properly, so i actually think a 0.4 or 0.5x6x12 would be the best.

    The problem is that the grub screws want to go down in the stub axle holes, so they force the cup inwards to the shim, making it way to tight.

  5. #125
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    I must have missed it. . . what wt. oil are you guys running in the these diffs?

  6. #126
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    Manne, what length savage center dogbones (f&r)did you use? And Was it loose, binding, or perfect?

    How did the savage cups hold up?

    I see the pic of summit shaft as the center shaft as well. I don't know what piece u used to connect to the 8mm pinion though. . .

    I'm thinking of buying 8mm rcm cups and running savage dogbones.
    MC said the front kershaw dogbone was a little too long.
    Last edited by anr2442; 03-16-2011 at 02:33 AM.

  7. #127
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    Ola:

    Well letīs hope it helps, get some runtime on her and bash the snot out of it.

    About the slope in the outer housing, your mesh between your pinion and ringgear canīt be too happy then? My doesnīt have any sideway slope BUT after a few runs I can see ware ( spelling ) inside the housing from the bearings sliding back and forth a little... Mostly were the pinion bearings sits.. I tried a couple of things to get rid of the slope but without sucess.. But itīs no biggie yet since the pinion and ringgear still is in great shape.

    anr2442:

    Iīm using Traxxas 30K front and rear.

    In the rear Iīm usning a savage rear 84mm dogbone, the fit is absolutley perfect!

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDLD6&P=Z

    And in the front Iīm still using the summit shaft since I havenīt really gone into searching for a front dogbone in the right length.., I can show what parts I used If you want.

    anr2442, are you using a 3.3 chassis as me?

  8. #128
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    And a small update:

    I bought some new hubs, they are cen racing 23mm I thought my drilled pro-line 23īs were a bit... noot to good looking and I donīt like them homedrilled. Neither did I like that I had to have a centerscrew to hold them in place:





    As you can see the modified pro-lines were a bit...Well used:





    I also bought some new 23mm offset wheels for the front instead of my modified geode wheels:


  9. #129
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    And..... To stop the F****NG knuckles from popping out... I bought a (hopefully) decent steering stop the reason of the knuckles popping is that they hit the shaft of the pillowball before the steering assembly hits the steering stop.

    The stock parts are way to weak, they keeps breaking all the time so I bought these, time will tell if they are allright:





    Ooohhh Yeaahh:





    Back on my other revos I used to use Goldenhorizons aluminium knuckles but They wonīt work with the lst mod and I canīt find any RD knuckles And even if I did....the pillowballs would start to snap if I didnīt have that steeringstop...

    Iīm going out to kill now

  10. #130
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    How`s the killing part going for you today Manne? haha

    I broke a front RPM arm after 15min lol
    It has to get warmer soon, so i can stop ordering rpm arms.

  11. #131
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    Manne, no I'm using the plastic erevo chassis. I assume the chassis are the same lengths. . .

  12. #132
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    anr2442:

    Actualy they are not the same, the distance between the gearbox and the bulkheads are different and the plastic chassis is maybe 1.5cm longer, Iīm sorry.

    Ola:

    Where is your arms breaking and wich arms? I always brake the rear lower arms close to the bulkhead..... Not today tho!

    Haha ready for the list and carnage pics?

    1 shock bent
    1 pushrod bent
    1 Lst shaft bent
    2 rodends broken
    3 steeringstops cracked...Inclouding the aluminium one....
    1 RPM a-arm.........
    1 Shock screw.

    Thats it I think..... Pretty good for one crash?
    Last edited by Manne; 03-16-2011 at 01:51 PM.

  13. #133
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    And now some pics:













    Lucky Me got spares

    I have some very beutiful action pictures from some light snowbashing that I will post later on

    Howīs things going for you Ola with the diffs?

    And Anr2442, Are you going to use lst diffs? If you are, then get the kershaw bones that are made for the plastic chassis

  14. #134
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    Hoho :P Are we talking richters scale on that crash? haha
    Thats normal RPM rear arms? Not truetracks?

    I went through 2 battery sets today, approx an hour of driving, and everything went very well.. The RPM arm broke, but thats it.. But it wasnt "all in" driving today, only mild bashing (if 25-30ft jumps can be called mild? :P)

    It my second RPM front left upper arm this week... They break right off... One where its thickest, perhaps a inch up from the knuckle, and the other approx 2 inches up, on one of the "wisbones".. But both was related to bad landings ofcourse..
    It was in snow, but +5 C outside..

    The diffs seems fine so far, but i`ve ordered alot of shims, to copy youre shim job

    My flux comes in the mail tomorrow, and i`m looking forward to test the MMM in it to see if it`s my motor, or my crazy driving that makes my motor so d@mn hot....

    Tell me, can you run 2 sets of batteries in a row, without heat problem in youre car? What temps are youre motor/esc showing after a full set of batteries? At what gearing, and how hard on the throttle?
    Are you seeing alot more heat with the paddles in the snow, than on gravel with normal wheels?

  15. #135
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    Yes itīs a regular rpm a-arm not a truetrack.

    That is so wierd, I have broken a few rpms and tons of stockers, and I donīt think I ever have broken a upper arm like that Not on the Erbe, only on the Merv. Do you boil them? Iīm running in down to - 15C HARD bashing and -30C mild bashing and I donīt break my rpms like that. My arms are boiled, for about one hour hard.

    Great My diffs is still holding up, knock on wood.

    Nice! Remember to post some pics of it somewere! I have been thinking of your heat problems, It feels like something isnīt is as it should... Iīm not running 5s for the moment but higher voltage should be better efficency=cooler truck if geared right, and I know you have tried a few setups...

    I run 7400mah 4s most of the time, and I get about 30-55minutes depending on drivingstyle. It doesnīt mather if I push the truck to the limit or if I do the mild 55minute driving, I can always just slap in some new batts without being worried about the temps.

    In the summer my temps looks like this in +20C weather: Motor82C/180F. Esc65C/150F.

    In the winter Iīm usually around these temps: Motor32C/90F. Esc21C/70F.....

    So, I get ALOT more heat in the Summer, Itīs like day and night, and it has been results like this with every motor/esc combo that I have had.

    Actually, I donīt think there is something wrong with your motor/esc. I think It is the outwarecovers fault. My esc and motor are covered in snow once and twice each run, yours never gets any on them

    Maybe you should try a outwarescover just for the mamba?

  16. #136
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    Well, I just want to share, maybe all you other guys donīt think itīs so lovely as I think but... Here is my softbashing paradise:

















    And Yes I did hit myself on this one.....


  17. #137
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    Boil them.. Hum.. Thats news to me.. Is that in the manual for them? LOL
    But serious, is that something i should do? Sounds interesting..
    I got normal RPM front, and truetracks rear.. But i guess its only the arms i should boil, and not the knuckles?

    The motor runs hot without the Outerwear also And theres no way (!) i can run 2 sets in a row.
    Ive ordered a fan for the motor, but i dont think it will do anything for it to be honest.. I`m starting to think theres something wrong with the motor, not sure..

  18. #138
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    Well, you learn everyday! Almost atleast... Boil them hard ( I have had mine boil until the water was gone without getting misshaped so you should be ok ) for atleast one hour, they will get a bit softer and wonīt break as easily, and yes just the arms Not the knuckles!

    Also, a pair of 2month old well used rpm a-arms will hold up alot better then some brand new ones.... I believe itīs the same thing for the stock plastic ones.. They tend to be so hard and unflexy in the beginning.... And they donīt have much chance of getting trough the "break in" period when they are used in 5C right away

  19. #139
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    So i ordered the KD center dogbones and asked dan to switch two for 8mm bore drive cups. Thanks for setting me straight. I hate wasting money.

    Great pictures manne. Just wanted to say your truck looks much better with matching wheel colors.

    These motors are just heat producers. In all honesty though that sounds super hot for 4s. I get 160 motor and esc geared 20/54 on 6s with temperature about 70*F. Maybe you guys should cut the windshield out and replace it with window screen threaded on with strong fishing line. Actually my front and rear are modded with the window screen and it doesnt look half bad! It may not work for winter bashing with the snow but on the hot summer days every bit of air flow helps.
    Last edited by anr2442; 03-17-2011 at 01:40 AM.

  20. #140
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    I even run a Slipstream body, and still hit 190-200f if i run hard.. If i run a second set, it just rises on even more...

    Since this is in 30-40f outside temps and 40mph gearing, i find it useless for hot days, and probably need to change motor.
    But i cant decide between the 1717 i got on the shelf, or buying a new tekin 1550kv..

  21. #141
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    Anr2442:

    Good! Just glad to help! And thanks, I agree totaly about the wheels

    Yes, 180F is high ( I never let it exceed that ) but Iīm pushing the truck quite hard so thats just how it is.

    Ofc I have my windshields cut out My whole truck would be boiling otherwise

    Ola:

    Then we know that something ainīt good with that Tekin motor..... And we know that you went for the 1717 We also know that your diffs gave in again

    Get her going so we can hear some of that 1717power of yours.

    I donīt know what Iīm going to do with the truck up next...... Itīs holding up as good as It can for the moment I think.....

    I want a descent steeringstop tho.... Anyone know if there is any good ones out there?

  22. #142
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    That steering stop problem of yourse, what is that really? Is it the servosaver not doing it`s job? Or a sloppy servo that cant cope with the force?

    I`ve dremeled alot of material of my stock one, to make more steering angle, but never broken it.. Servosaver is stock, and i use a 7955tg servo..

  23. #143
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    Look at the pictures they do snap, and when I donīt have a stop at the servo saver Iīm popping the knuckles each and every day ( I change knuckles when they pop the second time ) because the knuckles are turned until they hit the shaft of the pillowball......

    It would help me If I got a good servo and a harder servosaver spring , then the servo stop wouldnīt have to take all the force...

  24. #144
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    Update:

    The truck have felt so wierd the last couple of runs, glitchy and wierd....Didnīt feel smooth and nice, Then I remembered! I forgott to install my Antenna dummy! ( The Tower Rx doesnīt have a antenna at all..).

    Before:



    After!:



    Well end of the joking

    I went out to bash with my friend and his flux..... We had a...uhm...Excellent bash for 4 minutes......







    I think I broke my front bulkhead but Iīm not sure....


  25. #145
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    MAN you go through alot of parts...

  26. #146
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    How do you think my mood was when this happend after 4minutes It wasnīt even a hard hit/jump...Must have been cracked since before ( I did beat the truck quite well before I went to my friend for the bash session to make sure that the truck was operating as it should....)

    Anyway, ordering parts now, also ordered several packages for my flux that even hasnīt arrived yet!

  27. #147
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    This is what bothers me, you gotta bring 2 trucks to the party, to drive more than 2 sets of lipos LOL

    And the part orders.. Dont get me started.. I`ve ordered parts for over 400 bucks this month. And thats not included the RCS cage.. If its not reliable soon, ill part it out. The truck must be the devil himself (or atleast the smaller brother, since i believe you actually got the main man LOL )

    I guess it will be better in the summer..

  28. #148
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    Yeah, hehe but last week I had a couple of 45minute runs without too much hasseling! Thatīs keeping the mood up, I like playing with the devil

    That is alot of cash :O What have you ordered man? 400$ on diffs?

    Yeah, I have also thought of parting the truck out but I have spent way to many hours with it, wrenching and setting it up so I think Iīll keep it, even if itīs going to be on the shelf. As I said before, I have a special Love for my revo and the revo platform over all

  29. #149
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    As said, we need some vids of that diving of yourse Manne!

    400bucks runs fast, when you buy this and that hehe..
    2 orders for spare parts for $150 each, mostly erbe stuff like bulks, skids, spurs, pinions extra rpm arms front, oil, grease++ and some Flux parts..
    Then add a couple diffs ($70), spare XXL axles from jenny`s for the Erbe, the CEN diff and so on..
    Oh, i also bought spare shocks, rockers and steering pivot from Jennys LOL.. another $30 or so..

    I also bought the RCS cage this month for $150, and some hurry-up orders from a hobbyshop here in Norway (1 day delivery, instead of 2 weeks from tower) for $50 or so..

    Hum.. So i`ve actually spent over 600 bucks this month, + that i bought a Flux.

    Why the h3ll did i start counting LOL.. But it`s nice to have some spares around.. (its actually preventive, caus everything something breaks, its the things you DONT have LOL)

  30. #150
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    Wow Manne, you really know how to bash. I would love to see some videos. If not having someone to film is a problem, do what I did. I bought a HD Go Pro camera and use the head mount for filming. Since it has a wide view it captures everything. That way your hands are free and you can video while bashing. With the amount of cash you put out I'm sure an extra 160$ won't break the bank.
    Anyways looks like it's time for some benching and wrenching again.

    Ola, what are the Cen diffs for?
    X3-RC8T/X2 ERBE/Losi SCTE/SC10 4x4/Baja 5SC/Rusty

  31. #151
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    Manne and ola if you have the RPM knuckles they can be boiled to before or after a ball pops out to fix them. Its never good when a ball pops out.
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  32. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by Divey1130 View Post

    Ola, what are the Cen diffs for?
    Just a research experiment

  33. #153
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    Oh my god ola, 300$++ on spares? You are like I once were, hamstering spare stockparts I have stopped to do that now, I just have the parts that I canīt change for something better in stock, I keep that as a thumb rule, to never replace something with stock parts if there is something better available, but from looking at your truck, especially the drivetrain, you are doing the same thing plus having a whole second revo in parts

    And...Never start counting! I started to count one day... I stopped imideatly when I saw that I had orders for 1950++$ at towerhobbies....

    Ola, this is some "fun reading" that I found about diffs and diff testing, This is a part of the text in this link:

    http://www.savage-central.com/module...=703271#703271

    "To make a long story short, the Cen's absolutely beat the snot out of the stock Flux diffs (This was BEFORE the Real bulletproof gears came out) . My torture test was to do 5 backflips on concrete, not grass.

    I would then pick the truck 3 feet off the ground, hit full throttle and drop it back on the concrete at full throttle. This sequence was to be repeated until the pinion would break. "

    and:

    "Forgot to give the full damage report. All 4 outdrive dogbones were bent about 90 degrees.

    The same with the front and rear drive shaft dogbones. 2 axles snapped. 1 slipper rebuild and of course the body was a mess. "

    And here is finnesterīs pinion breakage:

    http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...2&postcount=23

    I want some of your Norsk Driving Ola! You arenīt the Ola from Sällskaps Resan med Stig Helmer are you?


    Insanity:

    Thanks for the tip, but wouldnīt boiling them make the pillowballs popp more easy?

    Divey1130:

    That is a great tip! I will get a gopro and mount it as a helmet cam! And if itīs only getting blurry and bad then I have a descent camera to do some films with then! I wish the snow was gone so I could go for a real sandpitbash....

  34. #154
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    Wow, great work!!

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    My buddy has the Gopro. What he did was drill some small holes in his E-maxx body and mounts it to it. He gets some sweet shots that way. He does not try to land his emaxx on top of it but does takes it off jumps. The thing is really durable (especially since it is made for alternative sport), and with all the snow you have Manne, I would easily say you could attach it to your truck and not have to worry about it breaking..... that is unless you hit a tree or land on it on top of ice.....

  36. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manne View Post
    Ola, this is some "fun reading" that I found about diffs and diff testing, This is a part of the text in this link:

    http://www.savage-central.com/module...=703271#703271

    "To make a long story short, the Cen's absolutely beat the snot out of the stock Flux diffs (This was BEFORE the Real bulletproof gears came out) . My torture test was to do 5 backflips on concrete, not grass.

    I would then pick the truck 3 feet off the ground, hit full throttle and drop it back on the concrete at full throttle. This sequence was to be repeated until the pinion would break. "

    and:

    "Forgot to give the full damage report. All 4 outdrive dogbones were bent about 90 degrees.

    The same with the front and rear drive shaft dogbones. 2 axles snapped. 1 slipper rebuild and of course the body was a mess. "

    And here is finnesterīs pinion breakage:

    http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...2&postcount=23

    I want some of your Norsk Driving Ola! You arenīt the Ola from Sällskaps Resan med Stig Helmer are you?

    Haha, that movie actually was hilarious (once)

    But on the CEN diffs, that actually show that they are quite tough.. I wouldnt change the BP pinion/ring for it, but the internals seems good.. Well see what i do with it later on.. I just want to check if i can mix parts, making stronger diffs in the end.. The HB internals Terry (divey) used on his Flux, is probably just as good/better than the CEN parts..

    What interested me the most, was the 3mm pin and bevel gears on the CEN`s..

  37. #157
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    Yes it was!

    Itīs a bit funny, you are from Norway and I am from Sweden, I have also seen people from Germany that pushes Rc to the limit, but I never see a second Swedish person at any forum Except the guy with the insane 14s Savage that is bashing the snot out of the truck or doing a great build...

    Yeah, maybe you can use the bevelgears from the Cen diff, and then the four small spiders from the HB with BP diff ring and pinion? Time will tell.

  38. #158
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    I lurk on a lot of forums but being a smart guy I wait for you guinea pigs to thoroughly test the solutions before I spend my hard earned money on parts

    And while waiting for the end result I enjoy reading threads like these so keep posting!
    E-Revo Xerun 150A/Leopard 4282//MBX6-Te MMM/CC1518

  39. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manne View Post
    Yes it was!

    Itīs a bit funny, you are from Norway and I am from Sweden, I have also seen people from Germany that pushes Rc to the limit, but I never see a second Swedish person at any forum Except the guy with the insane 14s Savage that is bashing the snot out of the truck or doing a great build...

    Yeah, maybe you can use the bevelgears from the Cen diff, and then the four small spiders from the HB with BP diff ring and pinion? Time will tell.
    Loved that 14s vid where it took off like no tomorrow, and sadly broke some flm stuff when it hit ground again.. It was flying for a while there

    I got the CEN now, but havent pop`d it yet.. I tried it in the LST case, but you where right, it didnt fit. 2mm to wide, and alittle to much ring gear But if (when) my Flux diff takes a dump again, i will try to mix some parts there..

    How `bout you, got any parts to get a truck going again?

  40. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manne View Post
    Insanity:

    Thanks for the tip, but wouldnīt boiling them make the pillowballs popp more easy?
    I would think so but RPM has recommended it to fix the problem or be at least a band aide fix for it. There is a mod on one of the 3 revo forums that someone took a piece of metal tube and jammed it in the knuckle to help prevent the plastic from stretching.
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