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  1. #161
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    Post 19 shows the mod. A good caliper to measure the ID of a pipe and the area the pipe will go and possibly a drill bit, add that to boiling and it’s a fairly cheap mod.
    Cads, Insane RC, PWC,and BOAT CORNUCOPIA

  2. #162
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    Dont need a pipe tube.. Just take the rings off the stock knuckles, and press them on the RPM`s.. Fits like a glove, and probably is ment to be this way..

    The boiling part might work after it starts popping out.. I know plastic often gets it`s molded shape back after boiling it, if it gets too cool of slowly again..

  3. #163
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    Didn't think about the stock PE steel part fitting on there.
    Cads, Insane RC, PWC,and BOAT CORNUCOPIA

  4. #164
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    Guys, I do use the stock steel rings on the rpms that I use in the rear ..... Look at the pics I posted while I installed them among with the Lst drivetrain.

    I have been thinking of using them in the fron too, I might do it when I run out of spare stockers...

    Ola, I have every single part I need except a new reciever..... They didn“t show up before the weekend.. so no driving..But thats pretty okay, I will be at work 24/7 anyway until wednessday

    Ola, have you ever tried to order parts from dollarhobbyz at ebay instead of towerhobbies? I used to shop all my spares at tower before, but every package got stuck in the toll and the delivery time was slow.

    When ordering from dollarhobbyz They ship it as a gift so you don“t have to pay toll, and I always have my parts delivered within a week from them. They just have stockparts tho... For the flux and the revo .

    I strongly recommend them
    Last edited by Manne; 03-26-2011 at 05:33 AM.

  5. #165
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    Thanks for the tip!

    I use Jenny`s alot, but they are mostly auctions and not buy now`s..
    I actually bought a 1515 2200kv from them yesterday.. I think the 1717`s gotta go on the shelf for a while To heavy, and makes just more problems than joy right now.

    Ill check up on dollarhobby`z next time i need spares! Tollfree is one of my favourite words lol

  6. #166
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    Well, It happend. I have a new project:



    You can read about it here: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29831

    It has some revo parts like the gearbox and such but I doubt Traxxas would let me post it here anyway

    Happy Bashing everyone!

  7. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manne View Post
    Beefy beefy beeefyy:



    And this is the end station:



    Can“t wait to get my hands on some Lst cvd“s, the summit shafts will have to do it for now.
    What center cup did you use for the LST diffs?

    Well just went on reading your post and found out that its the savage 8mm cup, could you please be more specific???? i mean which savage uses an 8mm cup and where, or it would be great if you post the part number.
    Thank you.
    Last edited by uninterrc; 06-03-2011 at 06:43 PM. Reason: Continued reading the post and found out the answer to my question
    SUPERMAXX, ERBE, T-MAXX, MERV
    SAVAGE &TROPHY FLUX

  8. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manne View Post
    So, Update.

    I“ve got the stuff! I will make this long story as short as possible, if there is something that someone is wondering, feel free to ask.

    I decided to use the Stock outputs that comes with the Lst diffs, If you install everything like Mc did the driveshafts will be too short for my likening since the outputs will sit longer in on the diffs than if you have the stub axel mod with additional cups on for the cvds, To fix that I simply used a additional layer of bearings in each knuckle, A easier way to do it would be to use Tekno carriers, I will try that version later on.

    I used:

    Alot of 8mm shims.
    4 Lst cvds.
    2 lst differentials.
    1 rear dogbone, savage.
    1 drivecup, savage with 8mm bore.
    1 drivecup, savage with 6mm bore.
    2 grub screws from the center lst-cvd that came with the diffs.
    1 drive cup ( or what to call it ) from the center lst-cvd that came with the diffs.
    1 complete summit shaft with two diff output axels on it.
    4 15x24 bearings for the rear rpm knuckles.
    4 8x16 bearings for the rear rpm knuckles and front stock knuckles.
    4 15x21 bearings for the front knuckles.

    This is how I did:

    I started to install the metallrings I had laying around from some stock knuckles on the rpm knuckles, it“s a good fit.







    Then I enlarged the outer hole on the rpm knuckle to make the 8x16 bearing fit.



    I took two of the four 15x24 bearings and put a layer of thin tape around them, the outer hole on the rpm bearing is about 24.8 so the fit is a bit loose without the tape, some 25x25 bearings would be perfect but I couldn“t find any...





    And then it“s ready for the cvd install:



    In the front I just removed a little bit material from the seats for the 15x21 bearings to make it easier to press in the bearings and get them out later on if they breake, I removed a very tiny bit of material with a knife. I used dual 15x21 bearings in each knuckle to make the shafts go really really deep into the drive cups when using LT rockers with P3 pushrods for that super high ground clearence. No binding have occoured.



    The cvd“s have about 0.2mm of play from bottoming out in the drive cup when the suspension is compressed, but I like it that way, no cvd“s is popping out on my truck.

    you said you have inserted 2 15x24 bearings into the outer hole of the rpm knuckle which is about 24.8, so whats the diameter and width of the inner hall. and what about the width of the 15x24x? bearings?
    SUPERMAXX, ERBE, T-MAXX, MERV
    SAVAGE &TROPHY FLUX

  9. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manne View Post
    So, Update.

    I“ve got the stuff! I will make this long story as short as possible, if there is something that someone is wondering, feel free to ask.

    I decided to use the Stock outputs that comes with the Lst diffs, If you install everything like Mc did the driveshafts will be too short for my likening since the outputs will sit longer in on the diffs than if you have the stub axel mod with additional cups on for the cvds, To fix that I simply used a additional layer of bearings in each knuckle, A easier way to do it would be to use Tekno carriers, I will try that version later on.

    I used:

    Alot of 8mm shims.
    4 Lst cvds.
    2 lst differentials.
    1 rear dogbone, savage.
    1 drivecup, savage with 8mm bore.
    1 drivecup, savage with 6mm bore.
    2 grub screws from the center lst-cvd that came with the diffs.
    1 drive cup ( or what to call it ) from the center lst-cvd that came with the diffs.
    1 complete summit shaft with two diff output axels on it.
    4 15x24 bearings for the rear rpm knuckles.
    4 8x16 bearings for the rear rpm knuckles and front stock knuckles.
    4 15x21 bearings for the front knuckles.

    This is how I did:

    I started to install the metallrings I had laying around from some stock knuckles on the rpm knuckles, it“s a good fit.







    Then I enlarged the outer hole on the rpm knuckle to make the 8x16 bearing fit.



    I took two of the four 15x24 bearings and put a layer of thin tape around them, the outer hole on the rpm bearing is about 24.8 so the fit is a bit loose without the tape, some 25x25 bearings would be perfect but I couldn“t find any...





    And then it“s ready for the cvd install:



    In the front I just removed a little bit material from the seats for the 15x21 bearings to make it easier to press in the bearings and get them out later on if they breake, I removed a very tiny bit of material with a knife. I used dual 15x21 bearings in each knuckle to make the shafts go really really deep into the drive cups when using LT rockers with P3 pushrods for that super high ground clearence. No binding have occoured.



    The cvd“s have about 0.2mm of play from bottoming out in the drive cup when the suspension is compressed, but I like it that way, no cvd“s is popping out on my truck.

    so the 8x16 bearing is a direct fit to the stock front knuckle?
    SUPERMAXX, ERBE, T-MAXX, MERV
    SAVAGE &TROPHY FLUX

  10. #170
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    Got another question for you....you see i am making my last order and i want to make sure that i dont miss something out when i convert to the LST diffs and shafts.

    I would like to know your suggestion on gearing with the LST diffs, i am sure the ratio changes so could you give me some examples of the ratios i could use?
    SUPERMAXX, ERBE, T-MAXX, MERV
    SAVAGE &TROPHY FLUX

  11. #171
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    sikk man, are those paddles the proline maxx paddles? and can you use them with the erevo stock rims?
    Traxxas and yamaha - cant do anything without them

  12. #172
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    sorry for bringing this back up but i need to get an answer for my questions.

    Manne where are you?????
    SUPERMAXX, ERBE, T-MAXX, MERV
    SAVAGE &TROPHY FLUX

  13. #173
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    out making some vid???????????? i hope, love this thread




    my summit suxs

  14. #174
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    IIRC both Manne and Ola has moved on to other brands and projects.


    Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
    E-Revo Xerun 150A/Leopard 4282//MBX6-Te MMM/CC1518

  15. #175
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    too bad.....so they dont even bother having a look at the traxxas forums?
    SUPERMAXX, ERBE, T-MAXX, MERV
    SAVAGE &TROPHY FLUX

  16. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninterrc View Post
    too bad.....so they dont even bother having a look at the traxxas forums?
    Rarely

    For stock knuckles, you use 2x of 15x21mm bearings on the inside, and 1x of 8x16mm on the outer side. Inside fit perfect, the outer bearing is larger than stock bearing, so the knuckle needs some work done.

    For RPM knuckles, same outer side bearing/issue as above, but 2x of 15x24mm bearings on the inside. This is when you need a layer of tape around them, to fill the 24.8mm hole in the knuckle.

  17. #177
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    Hello!

    Long time no see. I“m so sorry, I used too look here now and then to answer questions but no one wrote anything in a long while and then I trusted the " e mail notification"....Shouldnt have done that... Anyway, if you still are wondering

    *Yes it“s maxx paddles.

    *The 8mm cups are: Hpi 86083.

    *Good that you are here Ola when I can“t show up Jusy a little correction, If you use rpm knuckles the 8x16 bearing on the outside is a DIRECT fit and needs no work on the outside.

    *I used the rear centershaft from a savage flux, part number HPI 86056.

    *Gear it for a bit more speed then you had before the diff swap, go up one or two tooths on the pinion.


    I Moved over the electronics, gearbox, wheels and tires etc to the flux the last time I Broke It and then finished the flux build instead of fixing the revo, Haven“t looked at it since, until a few days ago, I started to miss it, so I took it to the work bench and started wrenching

    When I get payed I think I will order the following to get the truck running again:

    Complete gearbox
    6mm outputs to the gearbox
    Mamba Monster
    RD racing Servosaver mount
    RD racing knuckles all around
    Aluminum full skid "non cut" for the front bulkhead
    Recieverbox
    Savage headprotector
    Some bearings
    Wheels and tires.

    The plan is to get the revo up and running as a second truck a bit race inspired.

    I will get some really light wheels and tires and adjust it to have good handling instead of having 40inches of ground clearence.

    I“m thinking badlands, does anyone have a better suggestion?

  18. #178
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    I am loving my trenchers on my converted revo.
    Cads, Insane RC, PWC,and BOAT CORNUCOPIA

  19. #179
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    Sounds good! But aren't they a bit on the heavy side?

    The truck have sucesspfully ran thre packs today!

  20. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manne View Post
    Sounds good! But aren't they a bit on the heavy side?
    You are probably right!

    You should try Traxxas Response Pro + Dish wheel or maybe Pro-Line VTR 4" rims with a VTR tire such as: Caliber, Hole Shot or Revolver. IMHO I prefer the Response Pro + Dish because it is wider (83mm) than Pro-Line wheels (60mm) and that improves handling quite well and the Trx wheel has a (very) little offset too. It is quite hard to find wide offset rims these days…

    I have a Badlands for bashing and I never understood why using this - it doesn't give that much traction under loose dirt so maybe it's better to use a race tire for bashing or any other (it certainly look cool but that is not what I want - I want traction!).

    The only concern I have about race tire is that they tend to be less strong against rocks and they get torn\cut more easily than any other type of tire - so stay out of the throttle on rocks or you may torn\cut your tire.

    It would be better to use a "pillow" tire such as Terra Pin or any other for bashing. I do not like 40’s series tires because they are huge but they also weight twice as a racing tire so stay out of it.

    I just got HPI Dirt Bonz race tire and I’m looking for a nice offset rim for it (it must be light weight as it is for racing). If any of you guys know one, please tell me!
    Strive not to be nitro, but rather to be electric.

  21. #181
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    Thanks for your tips and your opinion!

    At the moment I“m using Hpi Gt2 tires ( stock flux tires ) on pro-line 1/2 offset 23mm standard "maxx" sized dish wheels wich are really hard to get to sweden these days for a decent price..But they are the only wheels that will hold up more then 30minutes of my kind of driving.

    I like the vtr“s, but I“m kinda stuck on 23mm, so maybe I“ll go with crime fighters ( I“ve used them before once ) but they tend to wear so wicked fast even when I don“t drive on asphalt, but thats life with brushless insanity I guess.

    If anyone know about some rims with 23mm hexes, please shoow me them, except the 40 series...

  22. #182
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    Threnchers are a bit heavy I don't remember what they weigh off the top of my head.
    Cads, Insane RC, PWC,and BOAT CORNUCOPIA

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