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  1. #401
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    748
    Quote Originally Posted by kzabak
    hi
    i got me a slash pe which is incredible..will post a vid these days..
    only thing i ripped off is one of the dishes that hold the lower end of the rear shocks´ springs...manual says its part 2668 or 2660...

    while
    2660
    http://www.monster-hopups.de/product...ducts_id=10701
    seems to be 2 whole shocks,

    i guess i need
    2668
    http://www.monster-hopups.de/product...ducts_id=11168
    ??????

    what makes me unsure is that these similar looking parts on the plastic looks like ones that where included in the PE and are intended for smaller diameter springs to be used with the big bores?!?!


    Big Thx to you steve for the thread...great work...
    setup ran fine for my bashing experience either..looking for other shocks, though....
    any info on how to run your setup with the stock shocks?
    could you specify the shock values of the big bores stock and ther ones you use to have a start when looking for other kinds of shocks?
    which springs are more common/more favoured? the bigger or smaller diameter ones?

    thx and greets

    Thanks for the comments! I'm glad it's working for you. The smaller diameter springs actually have the same value. They're just smaller diameter and require smaller retainers as you've found out. The size of the retainer really doesn't matter as long as it fits the springs. I personally prefer the larger diameter, because it keeps the springs from rubbing the shock bodies and it just looks better with a larger spring. IMO

    as far as replacements for the larger springs, just get a parts tree from a plastic Ultra shock parts tree. should be searchable on the buytraxxas.com site

  2. #402
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Oktoberfest, Munich
    Posts
    217
    hmm
    sry to ask again, but it seems i posed the question in a confusing way..
    my first problem is that i lost the retainer from the rear shock and need to know the part number...
    i just know that the ones that where included in the box have a larger diameter and therefore i dont wanna use them with the shocks...
    but it isnt clear to me which part number that retainer is...

    i just need to ride again, replacing the whole shocks comes at an other point^^

    thx anyway for clarification on the springs
    2/3s of my bash video are finished...maybe ill finish it today
    erevo mmm-need mip pins...
    slash pe

  3. #403
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Oktoberfest, Munich
    Posts
    217
    1 other thing i realized driving the setup:
    using the front holes on the steering hubs makes the wheel hit the hubs or sth else, so i had to adjust the dual ratio on my radio to prevent that
    did you also have that problem?
    i guess dish wheels are the way to go..
    and here you go-1st vid of the 1st rideouts
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7pPP9oskVio
    Last edited by kzabak; 07-27-2010 at 01:25 PM.
    erevo mmm-need mip pins...
    slash pe

  4. #404
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    10
    im stupid loose off power. great for making u turns. not so good on fast sweepers. i think i have steves set up on it( havnt used it in a while).i know i have less droop in the rear cause the mip axles bind at max droop.

    looking for steves second set up. where or where is it lol
    Last edited by auto2; 08-11-2010 at 09:29 AM.

  5. #405
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    521
    Page 6 of this thread
    JESUS says: "Fix it B4 it Breaks!"

  6. #406
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Frisco, Texas
    Posts
    52
    Hi all. I am new to this forum and rc racing so when I found this thread it was awesome. Thanks for all the great info.

    I do have one question. I was trying to change the rear dif oil from the grease it came with stock. But when I pulled it apart I noticed that the dif is not sealed. So how do I add the dif oil without it all coming out all over the place when I run it?

    Any thoughts and guidance would be great.

  7. #407
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Kansas City, MO USA
    Posts
    256
    First of all...make sure you are talking about the DIFF itself and not the HOUSING. The DIFF should have blue rubber o-rings at either end that seal the diff case. You shouldn't be using really viscous oils in your diffs. I used to use 7k weight front and 5k weight rear diff oil in mine (120k in the center diff) and I only filled it to the point that the fluid JUST covered the gears inside.

    IF you don't have the blue rubber o-rings then your diffs didn't get built correctly. It happens...just order a couple of diff rebuild kits from your LHS or buy them online. BEWARE though...aside from the o-rings the rebuild kits come with typically more parts than you will have removed (extra washer/spacers)...if you install them all...your diff will feel 'notchy' or may lock up completely. Make sure it moves smoothly after you are done.

    I hope that answers your question and puts you on the right path. By the way...this isn't really the right thread for this. Don't be surprised if you and I get railed for talking off-topic! Welcome to the forums! lol
    Last edited by pvalenti; 08-22-2010 at 12:19 AM.
    Paul Valenti

    Slash 4X4 #25 (Mark Jenkins)

  8. #408
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Frisco, Texas
    Posts
    52
    Thanks Paul for the quick response and info. And I apologize to all if I am side tracking the thread.

  9. #409
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    26
    Sorry for the question, but can someone post the link to Slayden's most recent setups? Thanks!

  10. #410
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by rich panganiban
    Sorry for the question, but can someone post the link to Slayden's most recent setups? Thanks!
    Also, maybe one using Proline shocks?

  11. #411
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    26
    Never mind, found it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Slaydaddy
    Ok, about the setup stuff. Let me say that my original posted setup was intended to get people who had the truck already a good setup to start with at the track since the box setup was intended more for parking lots and streets. It's a base setup and isn't designed to solve all issues. Different people will like suttle changes on the same track. I don't even use that setup in its entirety.

    This leads me to my latest findings. I've been running on a lot of larger and rougher tracks lately and have some changes to the original setup that will help you get on the right track for rough, fast and loose conditions.

    I'll include the original unchanged settings so you won't have to go back and forth.

    Refer to your manual and the website for what each setting is as they have a lot of great info that's already out there.

    SLASH 4x4 setup: FRONT END (for rough, loose and larger tracks - also works well with hotter motors and batteries)

    - Toe: 1.5 (out), Flat side 'UP'
    - Static Camber: -2.0, set at ride height and measure each wheel
    independently with the wheel pointing straight forward.
    - Camber Link: inner: #1 & outer: lower, This corrects the camber rise
    to maintain a level of negative camber when fully extended. It makes
    the front end (steering & control) more consistent & predictable
    throughout the suspension range. Use the #2 position for even MORE
    steering.
    - Shock Position: Upper: mid/ Lower: #2
    - Shock Length: 95mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end out
    to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves
    steering and helps settle the front end during landings.
    - Shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler RED fronts. Should be the
    same as the newer white fronts on Rustler. These springs are softer
    than the stockers and feel pretty good. The Rustler springs are a
    linear rate and feel a bit smoother.
    - Shock oil/ pistons: 50wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F - then go to 55wt
    - Ride Height: Approx 29mm (shafts level), This will
    also be affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers
    and measured from surface to the skid just below the front of the
    inner hinge pin.
    - Sway Bar: silver (6mm in front of hollow ball)
    - Diff: 7K (10K for hotter motors/ batteries)
    - Bumpsteer: Flat: up
    - Front hub carrier steering link: rear position (requires plastic [RTR] steering hub carriers), reduces steering, works well with plastic 2.5deg rear hub carriers.

    Front end note: The plastic steering knuckles have two options for the steering link. Use the front hole for more steering. This will be the same as the Platinum with the aluminum accessory knuckles. Use the rear holes for less steering.

    The plastic knuckles are acually nice to have on the truck. The rear
    adjustment hole is good on large high bite tracks to keep turn
    in smooth and less aggressive.

    -----------------------------


    SLASH 4x4 setup: REAR END (for rough, loose and larger tracks - also works well with hotter motors and batteries)

    - Toe: 2.5deg plastic carriers, The 2.5's work well with the rear steering link hole on the plastic carriers. Helps track straight in the rough too.
    - Static Camber: -3.0, set at ride height.
    - Camber Link: inner: #3 & outer: fixed on plastic carriers and #3 on Pro-
    Line rear carriers. Use the #5 hole on the inner on small high bite
    tracks. It improves chassis rotation.
    - Hinge Pin Location: Lower, Try the upper location on really rough
    tracks. Reset ride height when changing this adjustment.
    - Shock Position: Upper: mid Lower: #3
    - Shock Length: 110mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end
    out to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves
    steering and helps the chassis settle during landings. Very handy on
    those tracks that don't provide adequate landing jumps.
    - Shocks Springs: T-Maxx White Progressives. These springs offer a
    firmer feel and are longer and require less preload, which allows them
    to work within a happy range.
    - Shock oil/ pistons: 45wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F, try 50wt after that.
    - Ride Height: Approx 31mm (shafts slightly above level), This will
    also be affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers
    and measured from surface to the bott the skid just below the rear of
    the inner hinge pin. Lower this setting to level with the front on
    high speed smooth tracks.
    - Sway Bar: Siver (2mm sticking out from hollow ball),
    - Diff: 5K, Try 3K on really loose and dusty tracks


    ---------------------------------


    SLASH 4x4 setup: The REST

    Wheels: Pro-Line SC One Piece (Slash 2wd rear offset) all the way
    around
    Inserts: Pro-Line SC Blue
    Tires: Pro-Line SC Calibers, Bowties & Switches, Calibers have been
    good on most everything and consistent between bite and loose. Bowties
    favor loose and offer better forward bite vs. site bite. Good for
    chassis rotation and acceleration. The Switches are good on really
    hite tracks and abrasive surfaces. M3 is good in colder weather and
    also in dusty situations. M2 works well in warmer temps and on
    abrasive clean surfaces.

    Motor: TRX Velineon (with TRX heatsink #1522), Castle 4600kv and 5700kv motors are great for Open modified class racing, The mamba Monster ESC with the larger 2650kv motor is powerful and smooth and barely gets warm.

    Battery: Thunder Power 2S 7.4v 5200. The 25C and 40C are great all-around packs with the 50C packs offering more punch for faster motors.
    Battery Location: rear

    ESC: TRX Velineon VXL-3s (with cooling fan), Castle Mamba Max Pro and Monster ESC's are great for the hotter motors and offer some pretty cool tuning features.

    Gearing:
    TRX VXL - Pinion: 14t thru 16t (depending on track size)/ Spur: 54t, use 13t pinion on tight tracks. If running 3S packs, gear down to 12t pinion.
    Castle 4300/ 5700 - Pinion: 12t thru 14t (depending on track size)/ Spur: 54t, use 11t and 12t pinions on higher kv motors.
    Castle 2200/ 2650 - Pinion: 17t thru 22t (depending on track size)/ Spur: 50t thru 54t, use larger pinions and smaller spurs on the 2200kv motor.
    Starting setup for 2650kv motor: 18/52
    Starting setup for 2200kv motor: 22/52

    Note: Larger pinions also improves control of the truck in the air. Something to think about on jumps that buck the rear or high speed jumps that need a little extra to keep the front level.

    Center Diff: 50K, Try lighter mixes of 50K and 100K to get softer
    acceleration and better turn in.

    TX: Spektrum DX3R
    RX: Spektrum SR 3100
    Servo: Ace 1015
    Body: Pro-Line SC Hardcore


    The Thunder Power packs are 5200mah and are lighter than the previously posted 8000mah packs. The truck is working great and is handling well with the lighter weight pack. The Thunder Power packs are hard cased and ROAR legal too. Very punchy.


    Try some of these things and see how they work for you.

  12. #412
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Exeter Ca
    Posts
    17

    dust

    What about dust,I have a mini slash and live out west where it's always above a 100 and totally fine dust everywhere.I made a an elec tape cocoon around my engine cause I fried my first one in a few runs from dust.Does anyone do anything different to keep out dust.It's a total problem here.you can't avoid driving in dust.it's on the sides of all roads

  13. #413
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by aggie rustler
    via RCShortcourse.com from sgrid - thanks mp3ranger

    From Steve Slayden on sgrid forum

    The stock AND the Platinum Slash 4x4 trucks are both setup out of the
    box geared toward super high bite surfaces like parking lots, asphalt
    and stuff like that. That is why there is a level of push in the
    chassis and the stiff front end. Since most of the people buying them
    will be driving them on all sorts of random terrain and a lot of
    streets and parking lots, this makes sense.

    However, for the track racers out there, know that with a few changes
    you can have it dialed on the track. The entire chassis package is an
    awesome machine and is very capable of being fast. There's a ton of
    steering and corner speed in this truck with the right adjustments.
    Here's a few initial changes I'd recommend before throwing it down on
    the track for the first time. I'll post the rest of the setup
    afterward.


    Front end:
    - outer steering link: front hole (plastic knuckles)
    - shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler fronts work well
    - camber link: outer/ lower & inner/ upper
    - diff: 10K to 15K

    Rear end:
    - sway bar: black
    - diff: 5K to 7K

    - install center diff (50K to 100K)

    ----------------


    Just doing these things alone will make the truck rotate nicely and
    provide controllable on-power steering exiting corners.

    I'll post my complete setup below.

    Be warned it may be long, but worth the read. I'll explain why on some
    of it. This truck is SICK when setup


    SLASH 4x4 setup: FRONT END

    - Toe: 1.5 (out), set at ride height with a slight amount of bump
    steer (bumpout). It seems to like a little bit of bumpsteer.
    - Static Camber: -2.0, set at ride height and measure each wheel
    independently with the wheel pointing straight forward.
    - Camber Link: inner: #1 & outer: lower, This corrects the camber rise
    to maintain a levelk of negatice camber when fully extended. It makes
    the font end (steering & control) more consistent & predictable
    throughout the suspension range. Use the #2 position for even MORE
    steering.
    - Shock Position: Upper: mid Lower: #2
    - Shock Length: 95mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end out
    to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves
    steering and helps settle the front end during landings.
    - Shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler RED fronts. Should be the
    same as the newer white fronts on Rustler. These springs are softer
    than the stockers and feel pretty good. The Rustler springs are a
    linear rate and feel a bit smoother.
    - Shock oil/ pistons: 60wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F
    - Ride Height: Approx 27mm (shafts slightly below level), This will
    also be affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers
    and measured from surface to the skid just below the front of the
    inner hinge pin.
    - Sway Bar: Black (9mm in front of hollow ball)
    - Diff: 10K, mixing to get a 15K feel is also useable larger tracks
    with bite.
    - Bumpsteer: Flat: up

    Front end note: If using plastic steering knuckles, use the front hole
    for more steering. This will be the same as the Platinum with the
    aluminum accessory knuckles.

    The plastic knuckles are acually nice to have the second (rear)
    adjustment. This hole is good on large high bite tracks to keep turn
    in smooth and less aggressive.

    SLASH 4x4 setup: REAR END

    - Toe: 4.0 (blue carriers as marked), The 2.5's are good on small
    tight tracks and/ or high bite smooth tracks.
    - Static Camber: -3.0, set at ride height.
    - Camber Link: inner: #3 & outer: fixed on blue carriers and #3 on Pro-
    Line rear carriers. Use the #5 hole on the inner on small high bite
    tracks. It improves chassis rotation.
    - Hinge Pin Location: Lower, Try the upper location on really rough
    tracks. Reset ride height when changing this adjustment.
    - Shock Position: Upper: mid Lower: #3
    - Shock Length: 110mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end
    out to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves
    steering and helps the chassis settle during landings. Very handy on
    those tracks that don't provide adequate landing jumps.
    - Shocks Springs: T-Maxx White Progressives. These springs offer a
    firmer feel and are longer and require less preload, which allows them
    to work within a happy range.
    - Shock oil/ pistons: 55wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F
    - Ride Height: Approx 30mm (shafts slightly above level), This will
    also be affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers
    and measured from surface to the bott the skid just below the rear of
    the inner hinge pin. Lower this setting to level with the front on
    high speed smooth tracks.
    - Sway Bar: Black (flush with hollow ball), switch to silver bar on
    dusty loose tracks.
    - Diff: 7K, Try 5K on really tight tracks

    SLASH 4x4 setup: The REST

    Wheels: Pro-Line SC One Piece (Slash 2wd rear offset) all the way
    around
    Inserts: Pro-Line SC Blue
    Tires: Pro-Line SC Calibers, Bowties & Switches, Calibers have been
    good on most everything and consistent between bite and loose. Bowties
    favor loose and offer better forward bite vs. site bite. Good for
    chassis rotation and acceleration. The Switches are good on really
    hite tracks and abrasive surfaces. M3 is good in colder weather and
    also in dusty situations. M2 works well in warmer temps and on
    abrasive cleam surfaces.

    Motor: TRX Velineon (with TRX heatsink #1522)
    Battery: Max Amps 2S 8000
    Battery Location: rear
    ESC: TRX Velineon VXL-3s (with cooling fan)

    Gearing: Pinion: 14t/ Spur: 54t, use 13t pinion on tight tracks and
    15t on larger tracks. Larger pinions also add improves control of the
    truck in the air. Something to think about on jumps that buck the rear
    or high speed jumps that need a little extra to keep the front level.
    Center Diff: 100K, Try lighter mixes of 50K and 100K to get softer
    acceleration and better turn in.

    TX: Spektrum DX3R
    RX: Spektrum SR 3100
    Servo: Ace 1015
    Body: Pro-Line SC Hardcore

    Weight: My scale is broke, so with the battery, servo, heatsink, fan,
    wheels/ tires and such added into the mix, then that is what is
    weighs... LOL!!!

    I'll get it on a scale soon. I'm also going to be playing with weight
    placement and bias in the coming weeks. Keep in mind that lighter
    weight (smaller capacity) packs and/ or changes to the motor system
    and things like that will affect ride height and spring rate needs.
    When you refer to a sway bar color on the front or rear, what about the other end of the truck? Is it assume that it is box stock or disconnected, or what color. Also what is your opinion of when do you use the front bar alone, or the rear bar alone, or both bars, or no sway bars....thanks much the GMO

  14. #414
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by aggie rustler
    via RCShortcourse.com from sgrid - thanks mp3ranger

    From Steve Slayden on sgrid forum

    The stock AND the Platinum Slash 4x4 trucks are both setup out of the
    box geared toward super high bite surfaces like parking lots, asphalt
    and stuff like that. That is why there is a level of push in the
    chassis and the stiff front end. Since most of the people buying them
    will be driving them on all sorts of random terrain and a lot of
    streets and parking lots, this makes sense.

    However, for the track racers out there, know that with a few changes
    you can have it dialed on the track. The entire chassis package is an
    awesome machine and is very capable of being fast. There's a ton of
    steering and corner speed in this truck with the right adjustments.
    Here's a few initial changes I'd recommend before throwing it down on
    the track for the first time. I'll post the rest of the setup
    afterward.


    Front end:
    - outer steering link: front hole (plastic knuckles)
    - shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler fronts work well
    - camber link: outer/ lower & inner/ upper
    - diff: 10K to 15K

    Rear end:
    - sway bar: black
    - diff: 5K to 7K

    - install center diff (50K to 100K)

    ----------------


    Just doing these things alone will make the truck rotate nicely and
    provide controllable on-power steering exiting corners.

    I'll post my complete setup below.

    Be warned it may be long, but worth the read. I'll explain why on some
    of it. This truck is SICK when setup


    SLASH 4x4 setup: FRONT END

    - Toe: 1.5 (out), set at ride height with a slight amount of bump
    steer (bumpout). It seems to like a little bit of bumpsteer.
    - Static Camber: -2.0, set at ride height and measure each wheel
    independently with the wheel pointing straight forward.
    - Camber Link: inner: #1 & outer: lower, This corrects the camber rise
    to maintain a levelk of negatice camber when fully extended. It makes
    the font end (steering & control) more consistent & predictable
    throughout the suspension range. Use the #2 position for even MORE
    steering.
    - Shock Position: Upper: mid Lower: #2
    - Shock Length: 95mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end out
    to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves
    steering and helps settle the front end during landings.
    - Shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler RED fronts. Should be the
    same as the newer white fronts on Rustler. These springs are softer
    than the stockers and feel pretty good. The Rustler springs are a
    linear rate and feel a bit smoother.
    - Shock oil/ pistons: 60wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F
    - Ride Height: Approx 27mm (shafts slightly below level), This will
    also be affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers
    and measured from surface to the skid just below the front of the
    inner hinge pin.
    - Sway Bar: Black (9mm in front of hollow ball)
    - Diff: 10K, mixing to get a 15K feel is also useable larger tracks
    with bite.
    - Bumpsteer: Flat: up

    Front end note: If using plastic steering knuckles, use the front hole
    for more steering. This will be the same as the Platinum with the
    aluminum accessory knuckles.

    The plastic knuckles are acually nice to have the second (rear)
    adjustment. This hole is good on large high bite tracks to keep turn
    in smooth and less aggressive.

    SLASH 4x4 setup: REAR END

    - Toe: 4.0 (blue carriers as marked), The 2.5's are good on small
    tight tracks and/ or high bite smooth tracks.
    - Static Camber: -3.0, set at ride height.
    - Camber Link: inner: #3 & outer: fixed on blue carriers and #3 on Pro-
    Line rear carriers. Use the #5 hole on the inner on small high bite
    tracks. It improves chassis rotation.
    - Hinge Pin Location: Lower, Try the upper location on really rough
    tracks. Reset ride height when changing this adjustment.
    - Shock Position: Upper: mid Lower: #3
    - Shock Length: 110mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end
    out to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves
    steering and helps the chassis settle during landings. Very handy on
    those tracks that don't provide adequate landing jumps.
    - Shocks Springs: T-Maxx White Progressives. These springs offer a
    firmer feel and are longer and require less preload, which allows them
    to work within a happy range.
    - Shock oil/ pistons: 55wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F
    - Ride Height: Approx 30mm (shafts slightly above level), This will
    also be affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers
    and measured from surface to the bott the skid just below the rear of
    the inner hinge pin. Lower this setting to level with the front on
    high speed smooth tracks.
    - Sway Bar: Black (flush with hollow ball), switch to silver bar on
    dusty loose tracks.
    - Diff: 7K, Try 5K on really tight tracks

    SLASH 4x4 setup: The REST

    Wheels: Pro-Line SC One Piece (Slash 2wd rear offset) all the way
    around
    Inserts: Pro-Line SC Blue
    Tires: Pro-Line SC Calibers, Bowties & Switches, Calibers have been
    good on most everything and consistent between bite and loose. Bowties
    favor loose and offer better forward bite vs. site bite. Good for
    chassis rotation and acceleration. The Switches are good on really
    hite tracks and abrasive surfaces. M3 is good in colder weather and
    also in dusty situations. M2 works well in warmer temps and on
    abrasive cleam surfaces.

    Motor: TRX Velineon (with TRX heatsink #1522)
    Battery: Max Amps 2S 8000
    Battery Location: rear
    ESC: TRX Velineon VXL-3s (with cooling fan)

    Gearing: Pinion: 14t/ Spur: 54t, use 13t pinion on tight tracks and
    15t on larger tracks. Larger pinions also add improves control of the
    truck in the air. Something to think about on jumps that buck the rear
    or high speed jumps that need a little extra to keep the front level.
    Center Diff: 100K, Try lighter mixes of 50K and 100K to get softer
    acceleration and better turn in.

    TX: Spektrum DX3R
    RX: Spektrum SR 3100
    Servo: Ace 1015
    Body: Pro-Line SC Hardcore

    Weight: My scale is broke, so with the battery, servo, heatsink, fan,
    wheels/ tires and such added into the mix, then that is what is
    weighs... LOL!!!

    I'll get it on a scale soon. I'm also going to be playing with weight
    placement and bias in the coming weeks. Keep in mind that lighter
    weight (smaller capacity) packs and/ or changes to the motor system
    and things like that will affect ride height and spring rate needs.
    what is the part number for the t-max white springs that is refered to for the rear in this setup......GMO

  15. #415
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    34
    Steve "Slaydaddy" Can you give me your advice. I will be as detailed as possible to give you the tracksde perspective. I race at WCRC and OCRC. Hard packed clay type with some residual dust on the track. I am looking for on power steering without spinning around too much (mainly at the end of the straight, which is a left turn sweeper on one track and a right u-turn-ish on the other and an "s" turn before the first initial double) It launches, flies, and lands great with what I am using for shocks and springs. (the new proline dual spring system) I have black sway bars on both ends. Straight a way acceleration is "ok" but squirly from time to time if I don't line up perfectly on the straight. I am running 40wt in all shocks, 5K rear dif, 10K front diff, 100K center dif. Using Double dee's or Suburbs. Mainly your set-up on all the link and steering positions. I did try 4 degrese neg camber on the rear and neg 2 on the front last night and it seemed to get a tiny bit better. What would going down to a 50K center diff do? I'm sure its partially my driving and throttle control, and lack of track time, but I'm getting better and I have more time now than lately for practice. Thanks for your input.

  16. #416
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    It Works

    Picked up my Slash a week ago and went to the track. I'm new to the whole go fast thing I have been in to crawlers for a while and thought it was time for something new and after setting my truck up to his specs all I can say is wow what a difference it makes over stock. Still changing little things to my liking but a great place to start for beginners

  17. #417
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    What is your shock set up?

    Quote Originally Posted by Green Machine!
    Steve "Slaydaddy" Can you give me your advice. I will be as detailed as possible to give you the tracksde perspective. I race at WCRC and OCRC. Hard packed clay type with some residual dust on the track. I am looking for on power steering without spinning around too much (mainly at the end of the straight, which is a left turn sweeper on one track and a right u-turn-ish on the other and an "s" turn before the first initial double) It launches, flies, and lands great with what I am using for shocks and springs. (the new proline dual spring system) I have black sway bars on both ends. Straight a way acceleration is "ok" but squirly from time to time if I don't line up perfectly on the straight. I am running 40wt in all shocks, 5K rear dif, 10K front diff, 100K center dif. Using Double dee's or Suburbs. Mainly your set-up on all the link and steering positions. I did try 4 degrese neg camber on the rear and neg 2 on the front last night and it seemed to get a tiny bit better. What would going down to a 50K center diff do? I'm sure its partially my driving and throttle control, and lack of track time, but I'm getting better and I have more time now than lately for practice. Thanks for your input.

    What springs/oil/holes are you using with your prolines?

  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dresven
    What springs/oil/holes are you using with your prolines?
    I was trying differant combos at OCRC on Monday. I have to look again to see what I ended up with. But the jumping was dialed and smooth and level when I was finished. 40wt oil all the way around (all indoor tracks around here so no need for a real heavy oil) going back to the orig. pistons that came with the shocks. I did go a little heavier on all the springs to reduce my preload adjustments. (about 4.5 mil spacing) I'll look at the springs and post those asap. I also used all the outer holes on the front mounting. The rear is the outer hole on the bottom and the middle on the upper tower. Most important mod was washers on ALL the screws because no matter what, they all poped off the stock proline pivot balls.

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Machine!
    I was trying differant combos at OCRC on Monday. I have to look again to see what I ended up with. But the jumping was dialed and smooth and level when I was finished. 40wt oil all the way around (all indoor tracks around here so no need for a real heavy oil) going back to the orig. pistons that came with the shocks. I did go a little heavier on all the springs to reduce my preload adjustments. (about 4.5 mil spacing) I'll look at the springs and post those asap. I also used all the outer holes on the front mounting. The rear is the outer hole on the bottom and the middle on the upper tower. Most important mod was washers on ALL the screws because no matter what, they all poped off the stock proline pivot balls.

    Thanks! That helps out a lot.

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dresven
    Thanks! That helps out a lot.
    ok, Im going to wcrc tomorrow so I looked at the springs.
    FRONT:
    small spring: red
    large spring: yellow
    REAR:
    small spring: yellow
    large spring: green
    I am running slightly below level axels on front ride height and level axles in the rear. I spun out the front shock ends about an extra mil to gain some down travel.

  21. #421
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    Is anybody else having problems with the truck hooking very quickly around the front end? I need to lose some of the snappy steering response or gain rear grip either one. Its just really twitchy and seems to drive around the front end.

  22. #422
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    The car tends to oversteer especially with race tires.

    If you have the rtr version, move the steering link on the steering knuckles to the furthest hole, this will reduce steering.

    You can also reduce steering through your dual rate/epa settings on your transmitter.

    Depending on how much camber you have on the rear, normally reducing camber a bit by a degree or half might increase rear grip.

    Heavier rear diff oil (10K) will also help reduce oversteer.

  23. #423
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    I have the RTR version and am running a DX3R radio, Its not a radio correctable issue though. I will try that steering link position and reset camber. I am also going to 0 toe out on the front as I believe I have 2 degrees toe out currently. After some laps i am gonna switch to -1 front camber as well. Currently running -2.

    How much rear toe in is on the RTR?
    What parts are needed to increase rear toe in?
    I usually run 4 toe in on the rear of my 1/8 racers

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by parts eeter
    I have the RTR version and am running a DX3R radio, Its not a radio correctable issue though. I will try that steering link position and reset camber. I am also going to 0 toe out on the front as I believe I have 2 degrees toe out currently. After some laps i am gonna switch to -1 front camber as well. Currently running -2.

    How much rear toe in is on the RTR?
    What parts are needed to increase rear toe in?
    I usually run 4 toe in on the rear of my 1/8 racers
    the easiest way and always the first step to reduce steering is reduce the dual rate/epa setting and your radio should have it as even the RTR radio has it...it's oversteering because the servo is changing direction too fast especially prevalent in loose dirt surface...and/or in larger tracks, you tend to 'over steer' because the speed is faster...

    the RTR has -1 toe-in in the rear, you can get the aluminium rears which will give you -4 but if you are already having oversteer issues, why you want more rear toe-in? More toe-in would just make it even more over-steery...
    Facebook Fan Page www.moochie888.com.au

  25. #425
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    SlayDaddy, I'm wondering with the release a while back of more progressive spring options for the Ultra Shocks/Big Bores if you got any new results for the new springs?
    JESUS says: "Fix it B4 it Breaks!"

  26. #426
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    Did Slaydaddy leave Traxxas?? Someone told me that he is with VP race fuels
    SLASH PE 4x4,LOSI 8E 2.0, LOSI 8TE 2.0

  27. #427
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    Hey Slaydaddy, or anyone else that wants to help, I need some shock setup help. I know the stock shock oil is 50W in the front and 40W in the rear. But it seems a little soft for me. So I need some advice on to which weight I should use. Secondly, which damping dish thingy should I use, the 2 holed one or the 1 holed one? And lastly, since I bash more than I race what should I do to help my truck from bottoming out so easily. I'd really appreciate the help.
    Thanks
    Trust me...I'm a Doctor

  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetcam2
    Did Slaydaddy leave Traxxas?? Someone told me that he is with VP race fuels
    Yes he did...He is now Mike Battaile's full time mechanic and pit man...and also he is in charge of marketing and distribution(I maybe wrong on the distribution part). He may race from time to time on a club level but pretty much he has for lack of a better term "RETIRED" from racing.
    I am an R/C ADDICT!!

  29. #429
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    I found this, and think it would help some of the people in here to understand exactly how different changes will affect the performance of their vehicle. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/archiv.../t-127029.html

  30. #430
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    Ive scanned this thread, but cant seem to find a good setup for winter driving.
    Anyone who have one? loose snow comebined with packed snow and hard ice. the track is about 150 - 200 meters long, the jumps are about 60 cm high with jumping lenght of about 2 - 4 meters.
    Ive tried a few of the setups in here, but i either get understeer on breaking or oversteer on throttle.
    Could the minus degrees have a thing or two too do with the setup? The coldest we drive in is -15`Cellsius.
    open for any suggestions, and please excuse my bad english and spelling.
    Thomas
    1:10 Traxxas Slash 4x4

  31. #431
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    I have lost my master for Slash 4X4 Blank set up sheet, can someone send me in the right direction.

    Thanks

  32. #432
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    click on pit pass at the top of this page. or look up your model and go to downloads.
    Last edited by cjohns58; 12-23-2010 at 07:22 AM.

  33. #433
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    What setup would work well at this track? This is my local track. I already have all of the tekno stuff. And I am thinking about the proline shocks. What else should I change. ?? Thanks
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkWELAd8wc8

  34. #434
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    So, did we ever get a setup for the Pro-Line shocks? I have a set on the way, and was wondering what springs and fluids to use for them.

  35. #435
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    Does anyone know if Steve Slayden's setup works on clay ovals and does someone have something else or better suggestions?

  36. #436
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    Guys, I am not sure if Steve Slayden still works for Traxxas. He has not posted in this thread for almost 6 months and I have seen him associated with a fuel vendor along with Mike Battaile. We can continue the race set-up discussion, but I do not expect Slaydaddy to respond to any direct questions.
    It is not a TOY!

  37. #437
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    Quote Originally Posted by NorSlash View Post
    So, did we ever get a setup for the Pro-Line shocks? I have a set on the way, and was wondering what springs and fluids to use for them.
    I had a set on mine for a while, it handled great with the stock springs and 40wt.
    It is not a TOY!

  38. #438
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    Would be nice if he said good bye then lol

  39. #439
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    Awesome, I wanna try this set up!

  40. #440
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    Slaydaddy, What size shock preload spaces are you running?

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