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  1. #361
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    Thanks Gadgetter, my suspecions confirmed.
    Slaydaddy, what do you think about 4deg. toe in on a large, open, med bite track?
    Thanks in advance,
    Alvin
    HARDCORR RACING

  2. #362
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    I also wanted the stock rear axles
    in aluminum and like the way my truck handles with the stock rear axles giving me 2.5 toe in and found a pair of HotRacing rear aluminum axles
    that keep my rear at stock settings and I can't tell you how many times I have launched my truck off the big jumps unsuccessfully and these axles have taken all the abuse without any signs of quitting!
    Here is a link:
    http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=62849
    Last edited by KingdomRacer; 06-19-2010 at 08:54 PM.
    JESUS says: "Fix it B4 it Breaks!"

  3. #363
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    Great info, thanks.
    HARDCORR RACING

  4. #364
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    Slaydaddy, great info and thanks for sharing. I am going to try your setup but I have a MMM/2650 combo in my truck. What if anything should I be looking at changing...... springs, diff wt?

    BTW, does anyone know the weight difference between the Stock combo and the MMM/2650 combo? I have already sold the stock system so I have nothing to compare.

  5. #365
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    your combo is about 120 grams heavier than stock.

  6. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gadgeteer
    your combo is about 120 grams heavier than stock.
    Thanks

  7. #367
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    rear end a little lose

    hey steve i posted this in the main forum but your answer is what i would like ,i pretty much run your set up ,its working out great so far, i want to be able to have a little more speed comming out of a sweeping turn at our local track , i currently am set up with calipers and a pretty soft suspention , black sway bar up front silver in the rear, the truck is set up perfect for the track i race on except for this one turn . iam using 10k fr 50k center and 10 k rear diff fluid ,i think if the front was pulling a little more this can be the answer, not sure if i need to use heavier diff fluid in the front or rear or maybe in the center any help would be great

  8. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by sewerdog
    hey steve i posted this in the main forum but your answer is what i would like ,i pretty much run your set up ,its working out great so far, i want to be able to have a little more speed comming out of a sweeping turn at our local track , i currently am set up with calipers and a pretty soft suspention , black sway bar up front silver in the rear, the truck is set up perfect for the track i race on except for this one turn . iam using 10k fr 50k center and 10 k rear diff fluid ,i think if the front was pulling a little more this can be the answer, not sure if i need to use heavier diff fluid in the front or rear or maybe in the center any help would be great
    try dropping the rear diff down to 5k it totally dialed my truck in

  9. #369
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    from one dog to another ill give it a try

  10. #370
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    I just wanna know a good starting point for gearing. I allready have a mmp and was thinking about picking up a Novak hv 5.5t ( http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUYN2&P=7 ). I only race and will be running 2s. Unless there is something better or as good but for less money.
    Thanks

  11. #371
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    Slaydaddy, looking for gearing and Diff oil suggestions for MMM 2650 on 3S 5300 35C. I am running a center diff. Thanks
    SLASH PE 4x4,LOSI 8E 2.0, LOSI 8TE 2.0

  12. #372
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    I will only be using this for outdoor off road racing.
    SLASH PE 4x4,LOSI 8E 2.0, LOSI 8TE 2.0

  13. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gadgeteer
    Hello Slaydaddy,

    I noticed you normally recommend thicker shock oils for hotter weather, do you recommend the same with the diff oils? or are the diff oils being a lot thicker to begin with and is a little more shielded from outside temperature so is less affected?

    The temperature where I run gets to about 95F, last time I ran, the rear shocks on my 4x4 got to about 108F after a 9 min run ( I have 700cst on both F/R shocks)

    Thanks

    Diff fluids are effected by temps as well, but temperature changes in the diffs aren't easily felt like they are at the shocks. Therefore, I don't practice changing diff fluids based on weather temps, but I do for my shocks.


    Shock fluid is much lighter and the job it performs has everything to do with the way the car reacts to the surface. It's also good to keep in mind that shock oil will get warm as it's working around the track. It's important to know and understand the feel of your suspension between the bench and right off the track. Your suspension will feel a bit softer and faster when the shocks heat up.

  14. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by MVB
    Hi Slaydaddy.

    why cant I find you on youtube ?

    I wanna see a race that your in.



    There's a nice vid from pineforestmedia.com that showed the A-final MT race at the Manufacturers Cup a few years ago. There's a great battle between Mike Battaile and I for a ****** out pit bike. It was floating around here for a while.

    I think there's a clip of my SC main at the RC Pro finals a couple years ago on youtube. You may have to do some surfing to find it cuz I don't think my name is in the tags.

  15. #375
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    http://www.pineforestmedia.com/info/ click the monster main at the top



    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Hrh3HBP_pY&feature=fvw this is the Slash race they had at the RC Pro Finals a couple years ago. It was crazy slick and the track was huge. LOL

  16. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmad519
    I bought the 4x4 and am now running on this new track in NW Indiana. Its clay, 1/8 scale buggy/truggy and well... big big jumps. Im running 3s and have almost all Steves setup. Rest of the parts are on the way. Im thinking I need to put in thicker shock oil for these jumps. The track is smooth except for the airtime, and there are LOTS of these big ramps. Im new to all this, as you can tell, and looking for advice. I have no problem spending just dont like wasting money. Already broke MIP's, Jato shafts front and rear, and Ive loosened the slipper... a lot. Teknos look promising but theyre breaking a little now too. I know I have a lot to learn so Im here asking for help. Thank you in advance.


    Look at my second setup I posted on this thread for the big track that you're on. That should be a good starting point.

  17. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by round
    We ran 3 8 minute qualifiers and an 8 min main last wednesday night in about 90degree heat and the motor temped @160 geared 15/54 and used 2900mah. Pretty impressive, I am loving this setup. Oh yeah, it won 1st place too.
    Alvin


    Great job! That's awesome!!!

  18. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrostarter
    I second that. My Neu ran 150*F geared 16/54 and took 3rd.


    Slaydaddy- If your June 26 and 27th weekend is open, some cajun boys would love to race with you down on that bayou! Action Hobbies is hosting their 6th annual Cajun Classic weekend race in a brand new facility. I know this would be a little low on the radar, but it will have a huge turn out and lots of entries. Would love to have you there!

    http://events.rcsignup.com/events/di...nt.cfm?ID=1541


    Oh man! I've been gone for a while and haven't been able to catch up on this thread. Thanks for the invite though.

    Let me know how it went out there.
    Last edited by Slaydaddy; 06-29-2010 at 08:01 AM.

  19. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by timaneli
    hello slaydaddy.

    i am recent to slash 4x4 by for but i have already raced here in portugal other short trucks 4x4..

    how do you solve the main shaft problem of the debris and rocks that get stock in there?
    have you done something special advise by traxxas?
    i lost already a main final because that, and on another race i lost i half final because motor mount bearing failure also....
    i really like my slash but loosing races because this things and not by bad setups it sucks.....

    I understand your frustration, but it's all about maintenance. If it's important for you to finish well, then getting on a regular schedule of prepping your truck should be your focus. You can also stuff a piece of foam in the open bearing area and this will help a lot. especially if you lighly oil it (like an air filter).

  20. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by round
    Thanks Gadgetter, my suspecions confirmed.
    Slaydaddy, what do you think about 4deg. toe in on a large, open, med bite track?
    Thanks in advance,
    Alvin

    Only if the surface is fairly smooth. I try to use the 2.5 carriers as much as possible. 4 deg gets a little darty in the rough.

  21. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by Armor11
    Slaydaddy, great info and thanks for sharing. I am going to try your setup but I have a MMM/2650 combo in my truck. What if anything should I be looking at changing...... springs, diff wt?

    BTW, does anyone know the weight difference between the Stock combo and the MMM/2650 combo? I have already sold the stock system so I have nothing to compare.

    The best analogy I could think of is a 250 vs 450 dirt bike. Both systems are capable of fast speeds, but the 2650 has a lot more torque. It's a good large track outdoor motor. The springs in my setup work ok, but slightly firmer springs are even better. I like the ones that come with the Pro-Line shocks. Those are nice shocks and the spring rate is pretty good for the heavier motor. Now they have a number of optional springs. I definitely recommend checking those shocks out.

  22. #382
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    Quote Originally Posted by sewerdog
    hey steve i posted this in the main forum but your answer is what i would like ,i pretty much run your set up ,its working out great so far, i want to be able to have a little more speed comming out of a sweeping turn at our local track , i currently am set up with calipers and a pretty soft suspention , black sway bar up front silver in the rear, the truck is set up perfect for the track i race on except for this one turn . iam using 10k fr 50k center and 10 k rear diff fluid ,i think if the front was pulling a little more this can be the answer, not sure if i need to use heavier diff fluid in the front or rear or maybe in the center any help would be great

    It depends on what is holding you back coming out of the sweeper. Is it pushing out wide?? Or is it wanting to come around on you as soon as you get on the throttle?? Does it want to pull left to right when you get in the throttle?? There's a reason you feel slow in that section.

    Diagnose what the symptoms are and what is holding you back. Then look at the methods that will counter your problem. Since the rest of the track is dialed, make sure that you choose a method that has the least effect on anything else. For every action there's a reaction. Make sure that what effects the change makes doesn't hurt you on the rest of the track.

  23. #383
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    thanks will do

  24. #384
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    Hello Steve,

    If the rear end looses grip coming out of a corner/sweeper on throttle, should we go with a lighter center or heavier rear diff oil?

    Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Slaydaddy
    It depends on what is holding you back coming out of the sweeper. Is it pushing out wide?? Or is it wanting to come around on you as soon as you get on the throttle?? Does it want to pull left to right when you get in the throttle?? There's a reason you feel slow in that section.

    Diagnose what the symptoms are and what is holding you back. Then look at the methods that will counter your problem. Since the rest of the track is dialed, make sure that you choose a method that has the least effect on anything else. For every action there's a reaction. Make sure that what effects the change makes doesn't hurt you on the rest of the track.

  25. #385
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    hey Slaydaddy thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge.
    My question to you is this i just aquired a 2010 platinium slash and my club mostly run in a carpark whose surface is unsealed tarmac, any suggestion on what set up will be compeditive.
    thanks in advance
    6 TRAXXAS UNITS AND I DONT WANT HELP TO DRIVE THEM

  26. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by JUS4SHO
    hey Slaydaddy thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge.
    My question to you is this i just aquired a 2010 platinium slash and my club mostly run in a carpark whose surface is unsealed tarmac, any suggestion on what set up will be compeditive.
    thanks in advance

    Hey Dude, where you located?

    Maybe we have something that can help you

  27. #387
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    I am having trouble with my front end setting to low 15-17 mm. I upgraded to the big bore shocks and put on springs 5857. I am running them with 55 weight shock oil, with no pre-loads. I have them in the second hole from from the centeron the bottom and in the center hole on top. If I put back on my stock ones I get the right ride height but the truck is bouncy

  28. #388
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    you have to run pre load spacers to adjust ride height.
    HARDCORR RACING

  29. #389
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    Ok Thank You

  30. #390
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    You are welcome
    HARDCORR RACING

  31. #391
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    Good Starting Point

    Quote Originally Posted by Only_Revo
    I just wanna know a good starting point for gearing. I allready have a mmp and was thinking about picking up a Novak hv 5.5t ( http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUYN2&P=7 ). I only race and will be running 2s. Unless there is something better or as good but for less money.
    Thanks

    Use this chart to get yourself a perfect gearing setup. I would say with an MMM and 5.5t of 3700kv you would need to bring your Work Ratio down to around 0 - 1 or so. Put in different spur/pinion in pink row to see its WR. now change the combination to attain around 0-1 to keep the heat down with a 5.5t. If heat doesnt seem to be your problem at that setup, trying going up a bit up to 2.0 by slowing upgrading pinon / spur. Dont jump too high in a step...

    By the first setup you should get around 40 mph rated speed. I used 64/12 combination with 3s and your motor to get to this with 0.8 WR and 105% Work Efficiency. Sounds a good starting point to me

    I hope this helps.
    Slash 4x4 Ultimate, Slash 2WD, SCX10 Defender 90

  32. #392
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    Does anyone use that old traxxas electric motor heatsink #1522 that steve recommended on their velineion motors?

  33. #393
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    I have not but I would like to recommend what I have tried and I know works. I am using the castle "Blower" fan and shroud system and from testing it after 5 min heats It pulls 30degrees off of my current setup. I am gonna try it next on the VXL motor.
    HARDCORR RACING

  34. #394
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    Maybe it was discussed in this huge thread but I wasn't about to read the whole thing. Are the sway bar threaded rods supposed to be adjustable? Or am I just supposed to thread on the ends until they bottom out?

  35. #395
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    that voltage should be used with the ESC Mamba Max PRO and motor Velineon 3500Kv?
    ____________________________________
    Slash 4x4 Mamba Max Pro/3500Kv Velineon
    http://imageshare.web.id/images/heodda3ufurl6u8xgz.jpg

  36. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by round
    Pics of the NEU

    That's an awesome motor. I ran a 1509 2D(3300kv) and loved it. I agree that its super light and it makes so much torque that you can gear it higher than any HV motor to keep up and beat the guys using 4.5's down the straight. I geared mine 18/54 and it barely broke 100* on 2S and was a monster down the straight.

    Lots of good info in this thread, BTW.

  37. #397
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    shock question

    hi
    i got me a slash pe which is incredible..will post a vid these days..
    only thing i ripped off is one of the dishes that hold the lower end of the rear shocks´ springs...manual says its part 2668 or 2660...

    while
    2660
    http://www.monster-hopups.de/product...ducts_id=10701
    seems to be 2 whole shocks,

    i guess i need
    2668
    http://www.monster-hopups.de/product...ducts_id=11168
    ??????

    what makes me unsure is that these similar looking parts on the plastic looks like ones that where included in the PE and are intended for smaller diameter springs to be used with the big bores?!?!


    Big Thx to you steve for the thread...great work...
    setup ran fine for my bashing experience either..looking for other shocks, though....
    any info on how to run your setup with the stock shocks?
    could you specify the shock values of the big bores stock and ther ones you use to have a start when looking for other kinds of shocks?
    which springs are more common/more favoured? the bigger or smaller diameter ones?

    thx and greets
    erevo mmm-need mip pins...
    slash pe

  38. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gadgeteer
    Hello Steve,

    If the rear end looses grip coming out of a corner/sweeper on throttle, should we go with a lighter center or heavier rear diff oil?

    Thanks.

    lighter center diff fluid will help a lot and thicker rear diff will help a little. just depends on what you need. However, too thick of oil in the rear and it will have an opposite effect. I would try lightening the center first.

    I've been experimenting with really light center diff fluids lately with great success. Just to see how the truck reacts.

    I think the truck will work well all the way down to 10K in the center. Keep in mind that this will take away some punch, and I'm not telling everyone they should do this, but I was quite pleased with my results and I managed to TQ with 10K in my center diff last weekend. I still had plenty of power to squirt over the short runup triple and the truck was still fast. The truck gets easier to drive with the lighter fluid in the center. I still think something closer to 20K would be better overall, but like I said, I'm testing the limits and it's working well with light fluids.

    Let me know what you find out!

  39. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by JUS4SHO
    hey Slaydaddy thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge.
    My question to you is this i just aquired a 2010 platinium slash and my club mostly run in a carpark whose surface is unsealed tarmac, any suggestion on what set up will be compeditive.
    thanks in advance

    well, obviously I couldn't give you a spot on setup for something I don't race on, but I can help you try things that are in the right direction.

    I would start with the stock tires and springs. I would focus on shock oil and ride height. Are there jumps? or is it like a road course? if there are jumps then you may want to switch to a softer front sring like my off-road setup. is is dirty? or is it prepped and cleaned off? There are a lot of questions about the track that need to be answered before a setup is suggested. .

    Most importantly, you'll need to run on it and find out what needs to be improved before you automatically start changing stuff. Especially since this is a surface that is not generally raced on by these trucks.

    Let me know about your experience after you've had some time on the track.

  40. #400
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHIZZLE
    Maybe it was discussed in this huge thread but I wasn't about to read the whole thing. Are the sway bar threaded rods supposed to be adjustable? Or am I just supposed to thread on the ends until they bottom out?

    The sway bar links should be the same length left and right and they should allow the suspension to extend and compress thru the entire range without hitting or obstructing anything.

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