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  1. #121
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    ^^ i believe it may just all be personal setup, im sure you wil change a few things around, also i am gonna experiment around, and probabally have a few things different than the setup recomended here,,, the setup given is just a "base setup" that is put on the truck , then additional tuning comes from there also tire choice is HUGE i was running one set with softer compound, switched to the same tire, but harder compound and it handled completely differently throw on your silver sway bar at practice, see what it does, take note and see if you like it or not, it will let the car have a bit more body roll since its softer
    im goin big, then goin home

  2. #122
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    Ken, if you can, shoot me a pm of your entire setup. I'll work with you on it. Something's got to be going on, cuz this thing steers as well as any RC vehicle I've ever had.

  3. #123
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    milkman, I try to check on this thread as often as I can. Sometimes I'm gone for days or an entire week. I appreciate any patience due to my schedule. Thanks.

    As for setup differences. I do not know what Tim's setup is. Different people will have different setups. The setup I posted is just a general "BASE" setup. There will be lots of times that I will not be running the exact same setup as I posted. There are also different ways to get the same feel. I think you may be focusing too much on the setup. Maybe it's how you're entering the corners or approaching different parts of the track.

    Driving is just as important as setup. Tim and I bounce things off of each other pretty often, and we agree on setup principle and theory, but we each have different driving styles and our hand/eye coordination are perpetually changing. Sometimes I make a few changes to my setup just because my mental reflex/ muscle memory and timing are different than the last time I was on the track.

    I feel you're getting too caught up in a specific setup. I recommend really studying and understanding what each setting does and what each change will make and how it effects other areas. It takes time to absorb it all and understand. I've been doing this for a while and I've raced practically everything.


    Let's focus on one thing at a time. You can also PM me with specific questions.

    Hang in there. you'll get it worked out. and I'll help you.
    Last edited by Slaydaddy; 02-17-2010 at 04:36 AM.

  4. #124
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    milkman, I also noticed you're from PA. If you're at the motorama event this weekend, please come by. I'd like to meet you and help you out personally.

  5. #125
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    cobalt, You're on the right track.!

  6. #126
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    Steve,
    I have tracked down my lack of steering to an issue with the servo saver (bad bearings despite the truck never seeing moisture or water) It was causing the whole rack to drag and just plain not work right! Now, I can see how it REALLY can steer and cannot wait to get back on the track with it! Ill post back after the weekend

    Thanks!
    Welcome to Traxxas.com Yes, EVERYONE here IS a Pro Racer.... [/sarcasm]

  7. #127
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    thanx steve! im goin to try the truck tonight and ill let ya know what i think of the setup!!
    im goin big, then goin home

  8. #128
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    thanks for the input, I was not mad you didnt get to me right away! I just wanted to be sure you saw it!!!

    Thanks



    And by the way, thanks for the offer about this weekend, But I just had a baby and its my sons first pine wood derby race!

    I think your right about me focusing. I am going to try 10k in the rear and switch to the rear silver sway bar to see what happens. I am going to do one at a time. My track is hard to read. Its loose dirt in some places and hard packed high bite dirt!
    Last edited by milkman; 02-17-2010 at 01:42 PM.
    Three Summits

  9. #129
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    Ok guys,

    Just got done setting up the recommended 1.5 toe out. (Plus the rest of the set up sheet from Steve) I just purchased the Toe tool from RPM, but it's been a little difficult to get a good reference point on the Slash tires. The little manual shows ribbed front tires which would be much easier. Any ideas? Also, I'm not sure if it's just an optical thing, but when I'm at or near what seems to be 1.5 of toe out, it looks fairly extreme. Any thoughts? Thanks!

  10. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by mewalsh100
    Ok guys,

    Just got done setting up the recommended 1.5 toe out. (Plus the rest of the set up sheet from Steve) I just purchased the Toe tool from RPM, but it's been a little difficult to get a good reference point on the Slash tires. The little manual shows ribbed front tires which would be much easier. Any ideas? Also, I'm not sure if it's just an optical thing, but when I'm at or near what seems to be 1.5 of toe out, it looks fairly extreme. Any thoughts? Thanks!
    Not too difficult to overcome...just use either the inside or outside of the tires. It should look fairly odd...but I wouldn't call it EXTREME.
    Paul Valenti

    Slash 4X4 #25 (Mark Jenkins)

  11. #131
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    ... ran at the track, since my driving isnt good and im still not use to the truck, i didn notice a lot of difference, it did seem to corner smoother and better and be more predictable tho,, i stil was havin the back end kick out, but i think the silver sway bar will take care of that, or different tires, the track wa kinda damp today , and last times i ran it was dry, so it coulda been just my driving,
    im goin big, then goin home

  12. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by mewalsh100
    Ok guys,

    Just got done setting up the recommended 1.5 toe out. (Plus the rest of the set up sheet from Steve) I just purchased the Toe tool from RPM, but it's been a little difficult to get a good reference point on the Slash tires. The little manual shows ribbed front tires which would be much easier. Any ideas? Also, I'm not sure if it's just an optical thing, but when I'm at or near what seems to be 1.5 of toe out, it looks fairly extreme. Any thoughts? Thanks!
    Ive never quite understood the RPM Toe Gauge this is what I do:




    OR, if you want morw accuracy, spend $8 on a set of wheels and leave them un mounted use for setup only. That takes the tire out of the equation.
    Welcome to Traxxas.com Yes, EVERYONE here IS a Pro Racer.... [/sarcasm]

  13. #133
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    Have to ask this because....well..I am new and just don't know I just got my ACE 1015. Did you use the stock arm,another arm or cut it as needed? Are servo arms interchangeable? I don't want to pull my rig apart until I know I have what I need. Thanks.

  14. #134
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    Depends on the spline count on the ACE servo. If the stocker doesnt fit the ACE, then Im sure the ACE came with a variety of arms. Find the arm that best matches the stock, and put it on. I dont recall if the truck comes with extra arms or not, that would be the easiest way to do it.
    Welcome to Traxxas.com Yes, EVERYONE here IS a Pro Racer.... [/sarcasm]

  15. #135
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    Ken 448 - Thanks! That's a great idea. I have the RPM camber tool as well.

  16. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeti as3
    Have to ask this because....well..I am new and just don't know I just got my ACE 1015. Did you use the stock arm,another arm or cut it as needed? Are servo arms interchangeable? I don't want to pull my rig apart until I know I have what I need. Thanks.
    ACE is Futaba (25T) spline and Traxxas is Futaba spline. You should be fine using the same servo horn.
    I approve of this message

  17. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by marksp
    ACE is Futaba (25T) spline and Traxxas is Futaba spline. You should be fine using the same servo horn.
    Thanks guys.

  18. #138
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    ok update.

    I went to the trak last night and it is def more dialed in.
    I added the Calibers M3 and retuned everything to spec from you Steve.

    I then changed to a silver sway bar before I went and it now seems like the back end is a little loose.

    I come off the straight and there is a 90* turn to then set up for a large double. I CAN NOT set up for the turn. The back end wants to spin out on me. Some other turns are like that too.

    My questions is without changing too much what subtle changes can I make that would directly effect this to make it kick out less?

    Should I go back to the black sway bar? Should I add less or more camber? Should I bump up to 10K diff oil to prevent less diff action coming into the turn?

    thanks, I am almost there!!!

    Jim
    Three Summits

  19. #139
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    I would go back too the black swaybar , and take out a little camber and see if that doesnt give you more grip .
    At WARN 80% and climbing !

  20. #140
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    Steve...trying your setup this weekend . What shock oild do you run?
    I was running Associated but was going to switch to Losi. Thx

  21. #141
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    thanks for the sugestions. I was thinking that exactly. What adverse effect will more camber have on the truck in the rear?

    I am still learning what everything does!!

    Jim
    Three Summits

  22. #142
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    I am back down to -1* and a black sway bar, I will try that and report back.

    Jim
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  23. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by milkman
    ok update.

    I went to the trak last night and it is def more dialed in.
    I added the Calibers M3 and retuned everything to spec from you Steve.

    I then changed to a silver sway bar before I went and it now seems like the back end is a little loose.

    I come off the straight and there is a 90* turn to then set up for a large double. I CAN NOT set up for the turn. The back end wants to spin out on me. Some other turns are like that too.

    My questions is without changing too much what subtle changes can I make that would directly effect this to make it kick out less?

    Should I go back to the black sway bar? Should I add less or more camber? Should I bump up to 10K diff oil to prevent less diff action coming into the turn?

    thanks, I am almost there!!!

    Jim
    jim what i discovered is when entering a 90 degree turn with a loose rear end let the car do the work for you. try just a touch of steering input and then wait for the back end to make the turn for you. so many time i think i have a set up problem and actually if i adj my driving to how the car is handling all of a sudden im faster.
    my track has almost the same turn you describe.

  24. #144
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    Thanks for the suggestion. I have tried a lot of different ways to try the turn. It just really kicks out bad.

    I get frustrated because I know its not a buggy but when a 1/8 scale buggy goes through the same turn like it is on rails, it makes me ANGRY!!!!


    I think that is why I like this challenge, getting it to handle.

    I just need to tighten the rear end up just a bit and I think I will have a bullseye!

    Any one explain what exactly the less camber will have? I am thinking that less camber would have more contact with tire on the track. If that is the case why run 2- or even -3? Why would you not want -1?
    Three Summits

  25. #145
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    Does anyone have a part number for the recommended Pro-Line wheel that Steve recommends. Are you all running the stock wheel? I'm new and haven't even received my Slash, but I'm wanting to get as much info as possible. Can I swap the stock tires for the recommended ones and still use my stock wheel? Is it just better/easier to get a wheel/tire combo to swap out?

    Awesome forum and a ton of great info here.

    Dave

  26. #146
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    Any one explain what exactly the less camber will have? I am thinking that less camber would have more contact with tire on the track. If that is the case why run 2- or even -3? Why would you not want -1?

    Exactly , less neg camber = more contact with the track , but it wont handle bumps as good . More neg camber and it will handle bumps better but will feel looser because of less tire on the track .
    At WARN 80% and climbing !

  27. #147
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    Thanks JATO
    Three Summits

  28. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.A.T.O.3.3
    Any one explain what exactly the less camber will have? I am thinking that less camber would have more contact with tire on the track. If that is the case why run 2- or even -3? Why would you not want -1?

    Exactly , less neg camber = more contact with the track , but it wont handle bumps as good . More neg camber and it will handle bumps better but will feel looser because of less tire on the track .
    Ummm yes and no. Jim the reason you run negative camber other than handling bumps (I'll take his word for it...cause I don't honestly know that specific effect is true or not)...is to have MORE contact IN THE TURNS. You can prove this to yourself by just sitting your truck in front of you either facing toward or away from you and pushing the truck from one side to simulate turning with force on the suspension. The tires and the suspension rolls with the centrifugal force to the outside of the turn. Therefore negative camber gives you more tire contact while IN the turn but less on the straights.

    Less camber means a more study truck on the straights but less control in the turns. The best setup is going to be finding the perfect balance between the two for your driving style and the track conditions.
    Paul Valenti

    Slash 4X4 #25 (Mark Jenkins)

  29. #149
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    i thought so plaventi.. thx

    i thought the truck would "lean" in the turn causing the tire to sit "flat" in the turns... thus giving traction. Not enough camber and I could see the tire riding on the outside edge of the tire almost like positive camber. I think I now have an understanding! I just dont know how much it matters with the soft tires like the M3s I am running..One would thin they would flex a bunch and conform to the ground...
    Last edited by hoovdog; 02-24-2010 at 02:34 PM.
    Three Summits

  30. #150
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    Great thread! Thanks for all the good info Steve, keep it coming.

  31. #151
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    i had same problem with box stock set up. i went 10,000 front, 5000 rear,backd of my slipper and a bit a of throttle control and it wuz very good in corners.if i could get a center diff ???thx trx. i wld try 50,000 first.

  32. #152
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    Steve, Thanks for the setup help!!!!!!

    I raced my PE for the first time yesterday at Mikes & finished 2nd in the Main.

    Your setup help made it go from crazy to a pleasure to drive!!!

    Thanks Again!

    Now if I can just quit bending axles.................
    Last edited by silver sam; 02-21-2010 at 06:05 PM.

  33. #153
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    Steve, if you were running the Big Bores stock, how many spacers would you put in the springs for racing?
    PLEASE do not PM me and immediately go offline :p

  34. #154
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    Spring Question

    Anyone may answer this but just wanting clarity on the shock spring to use. I have a 4x4 Plat and want to change to the Ultrashock spings (on the Alloy Big Bores) as Slay posted earlier.

    Part # 2458A (front) and # 4957R (Rears)??

    I take it I need the Ultrashocks Spring holder for the Big Bores, anyone know the part number for that alone?

    Otherwise I just have to say a massive thank you for the SETUP TIPS Slay!!! Racing in the dark in darkest Africa until you turned on the light!!

  35. #155
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    correct on the springs and part numbers. I don't know if you need the spring holders from the Ultra shocks or not...nobody mentioned that. I'm still using Ultra Shocks...but plan to switch to Big Bores next week. Haven't purchased them yet...so I can't tell you about the shock holders.
    Paul Valenti

    Slash 4X4 #25 (Mark Jenkins)

  36. #156
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    yeti, I use Associated shock fluid for the most part.


    silver, that's great to hear!!



    sirslash, ride is what's important, not how many clips I'm running. It's best to use clips to achieve a specific ride height. As long as you achieve that ride, it doesn't matter what clips are used. Set your ride to the base setup.

  37. #157
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    caltrigger, thanks a bunch man! Glad it's working for you!! Yeah, I would recommend using the larger spring retainers. Lots of people have extra Ultra shocks laying around. Maybe you could take them off of those.

    Basically, in pvalenti's situation, what I would do is take the big bores and set them up with oil and such, then take the Ultra spring retainers off the Ultra shocks and put them on the big bores with the springs from my base setup.

    Those springs also won't rub the shock body, because they are larger diameter.

  38. #158
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    Hey Steve, great to finally meet you at Motorama! Although I can't get mine on a track anytime soon I duplicated your base setup and dying to give it a shot. Watching yours on the track was more than an obvious improvement over a box stock setup. This truck rocks guys and will most definitely turn some fast laps when you dial it in to your conditions/style. Once again, pleasure to finally meet you and hoping to see you next year!

  39. #159
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    Slaydaddy- I want to say thanks for all your info on the Slash 4x4 and all your past info on the slash 2wd and Revo's You are always on the money! My Slash 4x4 is a diffrent truck since I changed to your setup and this is even with the stock PE tires. Everyone has been out of stock on Calipers and bowties so I modified my stock tires by running a cuttoff wheel through each of the factory cuts in the tire, I opened them the width of the cutoff disc and it made a huge difference.


    I used the stock PE retainers and so far so good. Do you have a part number for the ultra shock retainers? I used the black Rusty springs in the front would I have to change those retainers also?
    SLASH PE 4x4,LOSI 8E 2.0, LOSI 8TE 2.0

  40. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetcam2
    I used the stock PE retainers and so far so good. Do you have a part number for the ultra shock retainers? I used the black Rusty springs in the front would I have to change those retainers also?
    I'm pretty sure it's 3768

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