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  1. #81
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    hey Steve,

    If my track is cold inside, say 30 to 40 F, would you run thinner shock oil or stick with the 60??
    Three Summits

  2. #82
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    Steve, With the stock saver spring, my wheels chatter A LOT Are you using the stock spring or something different?
    Welcome to Traxxas.com Yes, EVERYONE here IS a Pro Racer.... [/sarcasm]

  3. #83
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    I am not Steve, but in 30-40 degree temps 60 weight is probably pretty thick. I would drop back to at least 50 weight.

    I have a questions about the bump steer setting. Do you simply turn over the turnbuckle on each side that attaches to the bellcrank steering? I am a little fuzzy on that one. What does that do?

    Thanks!
    VXL Amsoil 2WD Slash/ PE 4x4 Slash/ BL recoil

  4. #84
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    milkman, yes, for reaally cold weather like that, I would lower the viscosity. Between 40wt and 50wt should do the trick.


    Ken, I haven't noticed any chatter and the saver spring seems ample for the job. Can you explain in a little more detail what the front end is doing?

  5. #85
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    Over a bumpy straight, the wheels chatter back and fourth. I currently have my saver disabled, and am using a Kimborough saver instead. It seems a bit stronger so I can hold a line better.
    Welcome to Traxxas.com Yes, EVERYONE here IS a Pro Racer.... [/sarcasm]

  6. #86
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    I have put this setup on my 4x4 and it has made a night and day difference in the cornering of this truck , and it traction rolls a lot less also . I wont say its as good as my 1/8 buggy based SCT but its darn close .

    I have to give props too the designers at Traxxas , some of the design aspects of this truck are quite ingenious , like the way the chassis keys into the front and rear bulkheads , and the center diff mount , and its a breeze to work on . Once the axle problem gets sorted out this truck is gonna rule .
    At WARN 80% and climbing !

  7. #87
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    Can anyone help a brother out on that bumpsteer change (up:flat) that is on Steves set up??
    VXL Amsoil 2WD Slash/ PE 4x4 Slash/ BL recoil

  8. #88
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    Hey Steve, you make mention of an ACE 1015 servo in your setup details. In looking around I was only able to find this on A Main's site. In looking at the pictures it looks EXACTLY like Associated's XP DS1015 servo which sells for $10 cheaper. In reading the descriptions for both it's unclear to me...can you confirm if there is ANY difference between the two servos?
    Paul Valenti

    Slash 4X4 #25 (Mark Jenkins)

  9. #89
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    Well said Steve.
    SLASH PE 4x4,LOSI 8E 2.0, LOSI 8TE 2.0

  10. #90
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    Ken, I haven't noticed an issue with my servo saver, but I'll keep my eye on it.


    rcgeek, The ball is offset toward the 'flat' side, as described in the book. I point that side "up".


    pvalenti, I really don't know much about them nor am I promoting them. However, I have run them and I find them to be very fast, durable and long lasting. I have several different servos that I may be running at any time, Hitec and Futaba. but that's what I have in my truck right now. The stocker is actually pretty good for being included. Only people that are used to super fast transit speeds will want to change it. most people will do great with the Traxxas servo. .

  11. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by pvalenti
    Hey Steve, you make mention of an ACE 1015 servo in your setup details. In looking around I was only able to find this on A Main's site. In looking at the pictures it looks EXACTLY like Associated's XP DS1015 servo which sells for $10 cheaper. In reading the descriptions for both it's unclear to me...can you confirm if there is ANY difference between the two servos?
    The Ace and Associated servos are the same. I used the Ace 1015 servo case to fix my XP DS1015.

  12. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mac The Knife
    The Ace and Associated servos are the same. I used the Ace 1015 servo case to fix my XP DS1015.
    Thanks STEVE and MAC...I did a bit of investigating on my own and pretty much answered my own question on that one. Couldn't find conclusive evidence but they look dead-on and hearing MAC confirm that the cases are indeed the same, along with finding the specs EXACTLY the same solidifies my assumptions that they ARE in fact the same.

    I'd get the ACE unit...but since it looks like I can save $10 AND shipping (assuming there is any) and get it at my LHS...I think I'll go that route WHEN I decide to upgrade the servo. For now I think I'll stick with the included one.

    I want to get sway bars and a center diff before I get anything else. But since my business is doing so well...looks like I might get those through buying a PE 4x4 instead of trying the dreaded eBay!
    Paul Valenti

    Slash 4X4 #25 (Mark Jenkins)

  13. #93
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    I feel a little slow, but what exactly do you do to change the bump steer set up, and where is it? Is it a turnbuckle change where they connect to the steering dual bellcrank?
    VXL Amsoil 2WD Slash/ PE 4x4 Slash/ BL recoil

  14. #94
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    About the shock lengths, the 110 mm shock length is measured center eye to eye correct? If so how are you getting this out of the stock shocks. The best I could do is, and feel safe, was 103 in the rear and 90 in the front. Any thing more I felt there wasn't sufficient amount threaded in.

  15. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by HWB
    About the shock lengths, the 110 mm shock length is measured center eye to eye correct? If so how are you getting this out of the stock shocks. The best I could do is, and feel safe, was 103 in the rear and 90 in the front. Any thing more I felt there wasn't sufficient amount threaded in.
    I believe it's end to end, not eye to eye.
    Been there, broken that.

  16. #96
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    Any suggestions on building the Traxxas Big Bore shocks? I bleed them properly (with the correct amount of rebound) and tighten the cap. No matter how tight the cap is, it leaks at the base of the cap after one run. Could it be that the bladder is damaged, causing it to leak?

    Thanks in advance.

  17. #97
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    Sorry but could someone please help me understand that setup?? Too many technical terms!
    PLEASE do not PM me and immediately go offline :p

  18. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrpleD
    I believe it's end to end, not eye to eye.
    So that's the total length of the shock, nothing to do with the mounting holes. I see that being obtainable, thanks.

  19. #99
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    FYI...it's total length of the BIG BORE shocks (the ones that come with the PE), NOT the RTR (ultra) shocks!
    Paul Valenti

    Slash 4X4 #25 (Mark Jenkins)

  20. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by SirSlash4x4
    Sorry but could someone please help me understand that setup?? Too many technical terms!
    Sir, did you check out the set up sheet - that will help you visualize it better. As far as the technical terms....just google them. Also, the Slash 4x4 manual does a pretty good job of describing the suspension settings.
    It is not a TOY!

  21. #101
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    ^^^^^thank you for that setup sheet, thats what saved me!! i was lost, and i followed that,,,i do have a question about the shocks,,, ok, can i run the tmaxx springs on stock big bore shocks, or do i have to thread them out a bit to run these?? i was gonna get them today, but was unsure.. but everything else is set, and i see where it can improve handling with the diff fluid changes, also i ran 60 in the shocks f/r is this ok or should i switch??

    thank you
    im goin big, then goin home

  22. #102
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    k, why with my center diff full with Ofna 50k am I doing wheelies on concrete using the Slayden setup (and still not steering)
    Welcome to Traxxas.com Yes, EVERYONE here IS a Pro Racer.... [/sarcasm]

  23. #103
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    hey steve im looking to get a max amp 60 c lipo. im wondering why u use 8000 mah batt in your slash 4x4 set up.do u use 5000 or 6250.is it to keep the truck planted.i wuznt going to get the heavier batt but i know u test for a reason,so i trust your opinion .is wieght even an issue with this truck. i cant say enough about how well your setup works.thx for your help.racing again sat here in the olympic city.

  24. #104
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    rcgeek, bumpsteer is the change in toe angle of the wheels as the suspension is compressed. This is adjustable by moving the steering link outer hollow ball up or down. The truck has a little bit of bump out up front. You can reduce this by positioning the ball up higher. The ball is offset and the 'flat' side as described in the manual is the side that the ball is closest to. This means by mounting the flat side 'up', you've raised the link just a bit to reduce some of the bump steer.

    As I said before, it's not super critical but it does affect the steering and the tracking of the vehicle over bumps.

    Check out the manual. It's an awesome book with great graphics and drawings that described most of the settings on the truck.

    Hope this helps.




    Yes, shock length is measured end to end.

  25. #105
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    HWB, I measure my shocks 'end to end', because it's easy to do with a set of calipers and you don't have to have a special shock tool needed to measure eye to eye. It should be easy to achieve my shock lengths as all I did was back the rod end off until a thread or two shows on the shaft just above the rod end.

  26. #106
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    rich, hey what's up man?? Good seeing you on here. I fill the shock with oil to the point that there is approx a two or three mm from the top. Then I pull the bladder out of the cap and examine it for tears and to also make sure there is no oil behind it inside the cap. I reinstall the bladder and make sure that there is a film of oil around the edges of the bladder for a smooth seal and to resist tearing the bladder.

    I then slowly thread the cap on with the shock body at a slight angle. When I get the cap about halfway on, I start slowly pushing the shaft up into the shock body to where the shaft is about half to 3/4 the way into it's compression stroke and then I slowly thread the cap all the way on. By the time the cap is almost tight, I make sure the shock shaft will go all the way up into the shock. If the shaft is still not reaching the top, I'll back off the cap and bleed just a bit more oil and then retighten. . This has been my best method of getting the best shock assembly.

    You'll get access oil at the top of teh shock. This is normal from the bleeding process. It's hard to get all of it, so after you clean it, it may look like it's leaking a little but this is generally due to the oil seeping out of the cap and threads. However, if it's obvious that you're losing oil and the shock has sucked in a lot of air, then you've got a bladder problem. There may be oil behind it or it may be torn, or it may have even moved out of place and fell into the shock body.

    Let me know if this helps.

  27. #107
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    cobalt, I think that it's best to adjust your shocks a little longer by threading the rod end out a little to run the Maxx springs. This also gives a slight bit of room to use preload shims. You won;t need much.

    Also, depending on the weight of your truck, You may not need any preload shims with those springs. They're also good for bigger battery packs. I run 8000mah packs mostly, so they work great for me. However, if you're using 4000 to 5000mah lipo packs, then you may not need any preload clips with those springs or you may even want to go to a lighter spring, like the stock 2wd Slash rears.

    Practically every setting on my setup sheet has something to do with one another. That's why stated what batteries I use and everything else for that matter. It's important to know that stuff when looking at the springs I run. Springs are selected for a specific feel and the weight of the vehicle plays a big part in that.

  28. #108
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    Ken, are you still using the Velineon system on the truck? Also what pack are you using? 50K to 100K in the center diff shouldn't really allow wheelies, unless you're running a super hot brushless motor and/ or a 3S battery pack. . That's enough power to pull wheelies. . The front may lift a bit with a 2S pack in the right situations, but it's definitely not a problem. Check your diff before you install . It shouldn't feel real tight. Especially with 50K.


    And wihtout looking at your truck, I couldn't tell you for sure why you're experiencing push. There may be something overlooked or something that I can't see. . Trust me, there is a an incredible amount of steering that can be adjusted into this truck.

    Can't remember if you have the Platinum or the stocker, but if you're using the plastic steering knuckles make sure you're using the steering link hole closest to the axle. This makes a big differece in steering

  29. #109
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    BC Slasher, Thanks for the comments and I'm glad the setup is working for you.

    Actually, the batteries I have are from when I was testing and running my E-Revo a lot. I would probably actually prefer a lighter pack, but if you setup the chassis properly for the weight of the vehicle, then it should work fine. I know the bigger packs are heavier, but the weight difference isn't large enough to make the truck too heavy.


    8000's will be fine for a little more stability and smoother bump handling, while the lighter packs will make the truck feel slightly more peppy and nimble. But, like I said, The difference isn't huge.

    The short answer is that they're the only 2S packs thet I have. LOL They work great though.


    I would like to try some smaller packs though in the future.

  30. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slaydaddy
    Ken, are you still using the Velineon system on the truck? Also what pack are you using? 50K to 100K in the center diff shouldn't really allow wheelies, unless you're running a super hot brushless motor and/ or a 3S battery pack. . That's enough power to pull wheelies. . The front may lift a bit with a 2S pack in the right situations, but it's definitely not a problem. Check your diff before you install . It shouldn't feel real tight. Especially with 50K.
    Steve,

    Using the VXL motor with MM ESC. 6* timing and low start voltage. SMC 2s 5200mah pack. Filling the diff all the way up with Ofna 50k it feels somewhat stiff when its out of the truck, but in the truck it feels ok. Im going to try 10k and see what that feels like. I did notice the center diff cover is bent, not allowing it to sit flush on the diff housing, and there are some score marks from contacting the rear bulkhead maybe thats what is what is "locking" the diff. Any idea what the part # is for that cover, by chance??

    BTW, Im "driving" a PE so the toe links are set for 100% steering. I have about a 5' 6" turning diameter if I am going slow in my driveway (both left and right)
    Welcome to Traxxas.com Yes, EVERYONE here IS a Pro Racer.... [/sarcasm]

  31. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken448
    Steve,

    Using the VXL motor with MM ESC. 6* timing and low start voltage. SMC 2s 5200mah pack. Filling the diff all the way up with Ofna 50k it feels somewhat stiff when its out of the truck, but in the truck it feels ok. Im going to try 10k and see what that feels like. I did notice the center diff cover is bent, not allowing it to sit flush on the diff housing, and there are some score marks from contacting the rear bulkhead maybe thats what is what is "locking" the diff. Any idea what the part # is for that cover, by chance??

    BTW, Im "driving" a PE so the toe links are set for 100% steering. I have about a 5' 6" turning diameter if I am going slow in my driveway (both left and right)
    I noticed the exact same problem with my center diff. If I tightend the screws down it would bind/ lock the diff, but if the screws were loose it leaked. You can tell by putting the cover on a flat surface that its not flush. I think that's also what is causing my excessive shaft wobble.
    Last edited by TrpleD; 02-15-2010 at 08:38 AM.
    Been there, broken that.

  32. #112
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    Steve,

    Still trying to compare your set up with Tim's on Revo-World, his latest one dated 2/6

    they are pretty different, shock positions, camber link positions and negative camber is less than yours can you tell me why the drastic setting differences?

    Is there any thing to gain by changing to his on my track? I have a cold indoor track that I go to and ambient temps are 30 to 40F range. I already lightened the shock oil a bit to 50Wt and 40 in the back. Parts of the track have traction others are really slick. They do water it and it gets more traction as the practice night goes on. Should I stick with your set up? What is the advantage of running the less camber he does and should I go to the rear silver, softer sway bar?

    I am running the Rusty and Tmaxx Springs with M3 bowties and M3 Calibers on order.

    Sorry for all the questions but I taking this learning experience seriously and I want to experiment. Its just I want to know WHY I am making the changes!

    To let you know I am still having some push going into the turns on throttle. I really feel I have to get out of the Throttle for the truck to start hooking up. Should I wait to make any changes until I get the Calibers?

    Jim
    Last edited by milkman; 02-15-2010 at 09:56 AM.
    Three Summits

  33. #113
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    yo milk man im not steve but i cant see why u have push with this setup. have u up graded your steering servo?its the first thing i did.amazing difference.i was having to wait for it around corners with stock servo.i bet thats your push.

  34. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by aggie rustler
    Sir, did you check out the set up sheet - that will help you visualize it better. As far as the technical terms....just google them. Also, the Slash 4x4 manual does a pretty good job of describing the suspension settings.
    Thanks a lot aggie rustler! Great help.
    What is the difference between the "flat up" and "flat down" setup on the bumpsteer? They look the same to me...
    PLEASE do not PM me and immediately go offline :p

  35. #115
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    nope, emaxx saver spring and upgraded Hi Tec.....
    Three Summits

  36. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by SirSlash4x4
    Thanks a lot aggie rustler! Great help.
    What is the difference between the "flat up" and "flat down" setup on the bumpsteer? They look the same to me...

    I am in the same boat! I realize that that bumpsteer setting isn't that important (or mayby it is), but I have inspected my truck and the tie rod ends look the exact same. I can't tell what is up and what is down. According to the manual, "flat up" is the stock position.

    Anyone have any pictures of this?

    Sorry for being a broken record on it!
    VXL Amsoil 2WD Slash/ PE 4x4 Slash/ BL recoil

  37. #117
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    Milkman, where did you get the E Maxx upgraded spring from? I think I have tracked down my lack of steering to the saver. I actually flipped it over at speed due to my now responsive steering and jumped for joy!
    Welcome to Traxxas.com Yes, EVERYONE here IS a Pro Racer.... [/sarcasm]

  38. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcgeek
    I am in the same boat! I realize that that bumpsteer setting isn't that important (or mayby it is), but I have inspected my truck and the tie rod ends look the exact same. I can't tell what is up and what is down. According to the manual, "flat up" is the stock position.

    Anyone have any pictures of this?

    Sorry for being a broken record on it!
    rcgeek if u take the turnbuckle out of the truck u will see where the screw goes through it has a bigger diameter on one side.its like a washer was added.but its one piece.anyway the other side is smaller like a regular turnbuckle .u will see if u pull it out,its hard to tell while its in the truck.hope this helps.

  39. #119
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    KEN 448,

    black spring in the emaxx 4945 bell crank kit, it was 10.00 at the LHS.
    Three Summits

  40. #120
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    Hey Steve,

    I would appreciate if you can review my post from yesterday at 1053. It got a little buried from other posts. I would appreciate any input.

    Thanks again

    Jim
    Three Summits

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