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  1. #41
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    Milkman...are the tires packing up and becoming as slicks?

    As you know I was worried about that with Calibers as the guys at my local track recommend Goosebumps for that very reason. I think I'm going to take their advice and pick up a set before I go to the track for practice tonight. Hopefully I can find a set at my LHS, preferrably mounted.
    Paul Valenti

    Slash 4X4 #25 (Mark Jenkins)

  2. #42
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    I have a question re: Ride Height???
    I've set up my PE per the instructions (I thought)
    and my ride height is way off.....

    I'm using 50w F&R and installed new springs all around
    front springs pn 5857 w/4mm preload
    rear springs pn 4957r w/6mm preload

    My ride height is 37mm rear and 27mm in front with everything settled.

    Did I use the wrong springs??
    Or should I use these and play with my preload to adj the Height??

  3. #43
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    no, when I check them, they are not packed!!
    Three Summits

  4. #44
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    can someone tell me what the difference is between the 5860 and the 5857 springs.. I originally ordered the 5860 and received them but they are not installed yet... now further down in the thread I am seing I should have 5857... they both are Rusty springs..

    HELP!!
    Three Summits

  5. #45
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    trpld, I mention the springs that I use in earlier posts. The axles are being fix by Traxxas. Let them know about your bent axles. They should take care of you on that. They are addressing the problem.

  6. #46
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    yep traxxas took care if part 6893 failing for me to, excellent cs
    rtr slash 4x4
    2s lipo
    some other rc stuff

  7. #47
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    heltzer, The sway bars come with the Platinum truck and the part number for them is #6898.

    As far as the Pro-Line bodies are concerned. I think they're the best looking bodies out there. They are extremely durable - I've been using the same body for both my 2wd and my 4wd truck for the past month with no issue.

    I've always thought Pro-Line has the best looking stuff.

  8. #48
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    milkman, Try Calibers. This will take some of the rotation out compared to the Bow ties. They are a more neutral tire.

    Also try a lighter diff fluid in the center diff - like 50K or a mix of 50K and 100K.

    And if you're not using the center diff, then that is your problem to begin with.
    Last edited by Slaydaddy; 02-02-2010 at 06:52 AM.

  9. #49
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    Just for the record, I've seen Holeshots come off the track all caked up from a loamy damp track, but they were the best tire on the track. Don't get caught up in worrying about that. What's important is what a tire is doing when in action on the track. Not how it looks or how much dirt it collects when pulled off the track.

    If that were the case, then everyone would be running old Mugshots when it's damp. Heck, I've even seen those get caked up. LOL

  10. #50
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    Slaydaddy...

    I went to your Set-Up with a couple exceptions (goose bumps and losi blue springs) and went to the track last night. The truck was AWESOME! Thank you SO MUCH! It turns on a dime and holds it's line great. Accelerating out of a corner is smooth and easy. The only problem now is getting used to how quickly it actually does turn (I'm over-turning more often than not).

    To explain my differences from above...I used Goose Bumps instead of Calibers because the pro's at the track are ALL using them. They told me that Calibers do well on a well broken-in track, but when they water the track, if you are in the first couple of heats afterward...the Calibers pack up and become as slicks. Also I'm running an RTR...so no Center Diff or Sway Bars

    As for the springs...I bought a TON of Losi springs when I was trying to figure this out on my own. So I figure that I've got to make use of what I've got. I'm not sure that I like the Losi Blue springs yet. I may switch to Green springs and see how I like those next week. The truck DOES handle very well though...the only thing I had trouble with was getting it to fly reliably over shorter jumps and in rhythm sections. But I think most of that will be taken care of by learning better throttle/brake control.
    Last edited by pvalenti; 02-02-2010 at 06:36 AM.
    Paul Valenti

    Slash 4X4 #25 (Mark Jenkins)

  11. #51
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    silver, you should ONLY use your preload to adjust ride height. You should adjust your ride height to a specific setting, then use the preload adjustment to attain that setting.

    You obviously have too much preload. Was there a particular reason you had that much preload?

    I don't like to state how much preload are on my setups for that very same reason. It only confuses people generally steers them the rong way. It's not even important. What IS important is my ride height setting and what springs I'm using.

    If you're using the same sporings and achieve the same ride height, then it doesn't matter what preload clips you used.

    The weight of the chassis, shock position, and a number of things can effect how much preload you need.

    Let me know if you have questions about what I just said. It's hard to explain somethings without showing them.

  12. #52
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    milkman, I explain the difference between Ultra and big bore springs above. The 5860's are big bore springs, which means the are smaller diameter and will prolly feel a little spongy and require more preload clips to achieve the same ride height.

    Look back at post #25. I explain the springs and give part numbers.


    The ones you ordered will work, but they are not the same as my setup.
    Last edited by Slaydaddy; 02-02-2010 at 06:55 AM.

  13. #53
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    pvalenti, That's great it's working for you. My setup does have a lot of steering. You'll just need to learn what to dial back while you're getting used to it.

    Your springs may be fine. It doesn't matter what color or brand. It's all about their size, length and rate. They may be similar to what I'm using. But I just don't know without checking them out.

    I think the sway bars will help you with where you're at now. My setup is definitely used with sway bars and I recommend them.

    I've had good luck with Calibers in damp loam. There's really not much either a Caliber or a Bowtie can't cover competitively.

    I will mention this though, M2 will prolly work better in soft damp surface though. They will dig better. M3 is generally better when it's dry and dusty.

  14. #54
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    How bout a sticky?
    It is not a TOY!

  15. #55
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    thanks Steve,

    I will order the 5857 springs, I want to stick to your set up with springs!

    I will also get a set of Calibers, pre-mounted so I can switch back and forth!

    I am going to play a bit at the track on Thursday again with spring set ups and make sure I have things set up to your specs as a base line!
    Three Summits

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slaydaddy
    Thoth, I did have experience with the stock truck on carpet at the Chicago Ihobby show. I got to wheel around with Scott Hughes for a couple demos and we were shreddin' it. They could've used some setup though to be ideal. They were both in stock form and the only thing I had to adjust was preload/ ride height.

    With that in mind, the setup above would still be a good reference with these changes for carpet:

    CHANGES FOR CARPET w/ small to med size jumps

    FRONT

    - Camber Link: Inner: #2
    - Shock Position: Upper: C / Lower: #3 (go ahead and extend the shocks. It's nice to have the extra length)
    - Shock Springs: Try the stock springs with 70wt oil. If it's still bouncy off the jumps, then switch to the softer spring mentioned above, and/ or go back to the #2 lower shock position.
    - Shock oil: 70wt
    - Ride Height: 22mm, be sure to reset static camber when changing ride height.


    REAR

    - Toe: 2.5 plastic
    - Camber Link: Inner #5
    - Shock Position: Upper: C / Lower: #5, change lower to #4 on tracks with larger jumps or minimal jump landings if the back end is bouncing off chassis. Extend the shocks as mentioned above.
    - Shock oil: 65wt to 70wt
    - Ride Height: 24mm, lower to level with front on larger wide open tracks. Be sure to reset static camber when changing ride height.


    THE REST

    - Tires: Try Pro-Line Switches and TRX S1 tires if the classis is rubber class. Use tire sauce if needed and allowed. Start with M3 for PL tires.
    - Center diff: 100K or higher. I would start with 100K and maybe experiment with 100K and 300K mixes. Especially if running 3S lipo.


    Hope this helps!
    Well I finally got a chance to try this out on the carpet last night. It is night and day compared to the stock setup. It was beautiful, everyone was commenting about how well it turned and landed and looked a lot like all the B44s out there. Compared to the guy with a stock RTR it was an entirely different truck, great advice! Unfortunately we were the only 2 4x4s there that night, so we didn't get to race.

    I actually did want a little more steering out of it on the carpet, so I tried softening up the front sway a bit, which just lead to some traction rolling. I stiffened that back up, and stiffened up the back a little bit, and it felt better but shortly thereafter I broke a rear carrier. I switched to the aluminum ones reversed, and the lack of toe made it pretty squirrely. I had just adjusted the rear sway back to flush and got a couple good turns when I landed a jump and bent a rear axle, ending the night.

    I have some spares coming, and I know they will fix the problem soon, so I can't wait to get out there and try again!

    Thanks again for your help Steve

  17. #57
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    Steve, How are you measuring the shocks, end to end or hole to hole?
    SLASH PE 4x4,LOSI 8E 2.0, LOSI 8TE 2.0

  18. #58
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    Slaydaddy Thanks... I thought that I read that you were recommending that amount of preload with those springs, that's the reason I set it up that way.
    As soon as I set it down and looked at how it was sitting I knew it was'nt right... Thats why I asked if I had the "wrong springs" or was it a preload problem.... Apparently the springs are correct but the preload setting was not.
    Before I took it to the track yesterday I pulled off all the spacers and reset the ride height like I normally would have in the first place.
    It handles really good, but I was sidelined after I kissed the wall and busted a rear axle.

    Quote Originally Posted by Slaydaddy
    silver, you should ONLY use your preload to adjust ride height. You should adjust your ride height to a specific setting, then use the preload adjustment to attain that setting.

    You obviously have too much preload. Was there a particular reason you had that much preload?

    I don't like to state how much preload are on my setups for that very same reason. It only confuses people generally steers them the rong way. It's not even important. What IS important is my ride height setting and what springs I'm using.

    If you're using the same sporings and achieve the same ride height, then it doesn't matter what preload clips you used.

    The weight of the chassis, shock position, and a number of things can effect how much preload you need.

    Let me know if you have questions about what I just said. It's hard to explain somethings without showing them.

  19. #59
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    ^How do you reset the ride height?

    I just bought the 4957r springs and I have some 2wd slash fronts that I am going to mount and set my truck up exactly like this. I just want to understand the ride height. Is that done purely with preload spacers?
    Also, what is the best way to measure ride height, besides buying a tool to do it?
    VXL Amsoil 2WD Slash/ PE 4x4 Slash/ BL recoil

  20. #60
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    aggie, holler at one of teh moderators and see if they'll sticky it. I don't think I have the ability to do that as I'm not a moderator.

  21. #61
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    milkman, let me know how it goes.


    Thoth, that's awesome. Sounds like you're on the right track.!!




    jetcam, end to end on the shock measurement. easy to do with calipers. eye to eye is only accurate with a shock measuring tool, which most people don't have.

  22. #62
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    silver, it sounds like you got it figured out. That's why I don't like stating preload.

    someone asked what preload I was running and I thought I explained why I don't put that in my setup. Anyway, all is good. Good luck!!

  23. #63
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    rcgeek, I just posted this in teh E-Revo thread:

    Setting ride height on any chassis can be done a couple different ways. I pump the suspension for about 10 to 15 seconds to help warm up the shocks a little, and then give a few extra pumps and see where it settles and then measure the ride height. You can also drop the chassis level from approx a foot or so (for monster trucks) and 6 to 8 inches (for 1/10 scale) from the surface and let it settle then measure ride height. This has always given me the same results. Just make sure your pumps are quick and NOT holding down the chassis for any length of time so it can rebound naturally.


    On Revos I generally just eyeball the driveshafts in relation to the surface. It's most accurate if you measure the distance with a set a calipers. I do use calipers on smaller vehicles though like the Slash 2wd and 4wd models.






    and yes, preload for ride height. It's best to use a ride height tool or calipers to measure. You can also use a ruler.

  24. #64
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    I sure will post up how it goes!

    I wont have the Calibers this week and they are backordered now..

    I actually ordered the bead locks and Calibers separate...

    Springs (5857) are now on the workbench (LHS had them) and will be on by Thursday.

    I will let you know how it goes...thanks for the help
    Three Summits

  25. #65
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    I've got a set of digital calipers I can use to measure the ride height.

    Thanks for the help!
    VXL Amsoil 2WD Slash/ PE 4x4 Slash/ BL recoil

  26. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by milkman
    I sure will post up how it goes!

    I wont have the Calibers this week and they are backordered now..

    I actually ordered the bead locks and Calibers separate...

    Springs (5857) are now on the workbench (LHS had them) and will be on by Thursday.

    I will let you know how it goes...thanks for the help
    Hope you dont need those calibers soon, I've had a pair backordered for a month!
    Been there, broken that.

  27. #67
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    Great thread. It's now a sticky!

    If only warm weather would show so I can try these settings.

  28. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoovdog
    If only warm weather would show so I can try these settings.
    Thanks!

    AND Dry weather!!!! So far I have had it about a month and only raced once and it was really too muddy to be out there.
    It is not a TOY!

  29. #69
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    thank goodness I have a indoor track close...Steve how often do you race at Mikes? Might have to make a trip south to race with you and Tim sometime. Do you have a overall camber link length for front and rear I dont have a camber guage anymore. I know it won't be 100 percent accurate but it will get me close for now.
    Last edited by bmoney; 02-03-2010 at 06:27 PM.

  30. #70
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    LHS told me middle of FEB.... I hope!
    Three Summits

  31. #71
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    please explainall the different shocks and maybe picks?
    you have the ultra.....regular?......aluminum.......pro? competition?

    big bores? oh the semantics lol

  32. #72
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    Ok I got the RTR and want to use some goosebumps on beadlocks, will that be a good option? the track is hard pack. Any other suggestions? i want to do some racing and will do other upgrades like the CD, sway bars and aluminum rear carrier.
    Thanks

  33. #73
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    I'm a bit confused as to why Traxxas' very own Slayden is using ProLine wheels, tires, Ace servo, Spectrum Tx and Rx, and a ProLine Body ? Seems like you would be using all Traxxas stuff to prove it's the racer, not the expensive brands... Was this your setup before for the 2wd Slash, prior to the Platinum 4x4 and the introduction of the new LINK radio that seems pretty race worthy to me. ???
    I don't race, so am I missing something like maybe ProLine is sponsoring the race and everyone is using them ?
    Since the Slash and the 4x4 Slash seem to be the first and most popular trucks that are racing and have their own (short course) class, it would really seem like you would be using all Traxxas equipment.
    Just curious... great to see a real Traxxas rep in here, and I have enjoyed your upgrade articles in the Pitt. I hope to see more of those for all the latest releases like the BL Emaxx, Summit, and maybe some non racing set ups for the 4x4 Slash like rally style, on road, monster truck... Plenty of forum members already doing that, but you have all the Traxxas toys to experiment with and release those cool articles with the great photography like the Jato off road project, etc.
    3905 E-MAXX

  34. #74
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    Also can you post some pics of your set ups ? Maybe mention what charger you use and how you balance ? Is MaxAmps the unofficial battery sponsor ? Hmmmmm makes me wonder if they are building the Traxxas NiMH packs too. Although the peak charger is clearly MRC...
    3905 E-MAXX

  35. #75
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    I would bet money that pro racers like Slayden get upgrade sponsors like all other forms of racing. Just guessing that Slayden is sponsored by Pro-Line and Spectrum. Probably others as well.

    My buddy Cody Gilmore is a pro motocross racer. He gets his bikes from Honda, but he is also sponsored by Renthal, IMS, Monster Energy, etc...etc...etc... basically the sponsors take care of all the extras that a racer needs. Cody never PAYS for ANYTHING that goes into (or onto) his bike EXCEPT fuel and inner tubes.

    I would bet that it is similar with the SC RC Pros as well. Slayden probably has a battery sponsor as well. Since he races Nitro as well probably a fuel and motor sponsor too.
    Paul Valenti

    Slash 4X4 #25 (Mark Jenkins)

  36. #76
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    Steve, the set-up worked great, from being a handful to drive to a completely new truck! I was able to race against you a few weeks ago at Mike's, I think you lapped me about 4 times, now maybe I can give you a better run, maybe you'll only lap me once or twice now...

  37. #77
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    i used rusty springs all the way around with no pre load in rear.truck rocked.steves setup is money!finished 2nd last sat. pro driver past me on last lap and got me by 2 sec.im a 1st year racer.it drove really easy and fast corner speed.

  38. #78
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    BT EMT,

    I'm only answering this question, because I think it's good info for all to know. But, I must say you worded your questions in such a provocative manner that it makes you sound as if you have some sort of pre-existing beef with either me or Traxxas or both. That was evident.

    However, Traxxas knows who my sponsors are and I make sure that they are not competing manufacturers. I've been with Traxxas for ten years and have been their main driver for all of that time. I've done a lot to promote their products and to show what they can do on the track and in competition (EVEN THOUGH THEY ARE NOT DESIGNED TO BE)

    If Traxxas was a "race" company with the goal of being the best on a national level at the track, then what you say would make more sense (and wouldn't have even been said to begin with) because Traxxas would have that level of technology designed into their stuff and it WOULD also cost quite a bit more.

    You should read the latest interview in Extreme RC magazine. There is a great interview in there on Mike Jenkins (owner of Traxxas). He explains why Traxxas caters to the basher and not so much the racer. It's an excellent read and answers a lot of questions as to why Traxxas doesn't jump into the full blown racing world.,

    So, to answer your question:
    - tires: Traxxas makes two treads and two compounds. They are good for specific surfaces while Pro-Line offers treads and compounds that cover the rest.
    - batteries: Traxxas does not have LiPo batteries. The Nimh's were ok for stock spec racing, but will not compete at the level I race at in open, mod, or brushless classes.
    - servos: Traxxas puts as much performance into their servos as they can and still keep a competitive RTR price for their "market". Their market being the "basher". This helps keep the RTR kit from costing more. They do not offer a servo capable of over 200oz in torque and a speed of .08sec at 60 degrees.
    - bodies: There are tons of bodies out there and I think it's great that people run different stuff to add more flavor to the racing field.



    I hope this all makes sense to you, because your post really sounds like someone that has beef against the sponsored driver or me personally, though I don't think I know you.

    Simply put, Traxxas doesn't develop products specifically for the competitive racer, but lots of their stuff is actually useful on the track. Therefore, I use as much Traxxas product as I can to be competitive - and in the areas where I can use the benefit of a race-specific component, then I use it.


    You should really read that interview...



    Oh and glad you like the articles.. I'll keep 'em coming as long as I can..
    Last edited by Slaydaddy; 02-11-2010 at 08:46 PM.

  39. #79
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    Also, MaxAmps does NOT make batteries for Traxxas nor are they affiliated in any way. However, they did support me with some equipment last year. I still like and use their LiPo packs.

  40. #80
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    Yikes, some of the first post was hard to understand...
    Sorry, kind of a noob here.
    PLEASE do not PM me and immediately go offline :p

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