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  1. #1
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    use <blank> to back flourescent paint

    painted my baja bug fluorescent red (pactra) and backed with many thin coats of white krylon normal paint. i haven't ran it yet, but i expect it to hold up well enough. i'm just curious as to what is recommended, as i intend to paint a desert rat another flourescent color (any recommendations?) and would like it to come out nice. is there a paint that can bring the fluorescent out more? make it brighter? have any pics of fluorescent paint jobs laying around?

    it was a random purchase at my LHS for my baja bug, and i absolutely love it. the increased visibility is worth it alone.

  2. #2
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    White pactra is recommended and best as far as I know.
    HARDCORR RACING

  3. #3
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    If it were me on a red, I would use silver. Less possibility of it having a pinkish tint. Use the pactra rattle cans, or faskolor if you airbrush but never krylon. Krylon+lexan=FAIL

  4. #4
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    This is the hardcore body I'm finishing up now. It's a flourescent green to darker flourescent green fade. Sprayed all flourescent green, heavier towards rear, backed front to rear with flourescent yellow, then with pearlescent green from the rear fenders back. The flames are outlined in burgundy with flourescent orange backing, and the flames themselves are flourescent orange faded to flourescent yellow, then green tips. I backed all with satin pearlescent silver, with an airbrush of course. The garage lighting does it no justice, it's bright for sure.

    http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...tr/photo-3.jpg
    http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...tr/photo-4.jpg

  5. #5
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    krylon never touched the plastic, just a backer. silver sounds like a good idea, the baja did come out pinkish, but it's a fitting pinkish.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by gittyup
    This is the hardcore body I'm finishing up now. It's a flourescent green to darker flourescent green fade. Sprayed all flourescent green, heavier towards rear, backed front to rear with flourescent yellow, then with pearlescent green from the rear fenders back. The flames are outlined in burgundy with flourescent orange backing, and the flames themselves are flourescent orange faded to flourescent yellow, then green tips. I backed all with satin pearlescent silver, with an airbrush of course. The garage lighting does it no justice, it's bright for sure.

    http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...tr/photo-3.jpg
    http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...tr/photo-4.jpg

    IM SOLD ON GREEN! that looks great! i was worried it would look fischer-price like... but that's exactly what i would hope for. thank you

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonmorehouse
    krylon never touched the plastic, just a backer. silver sounds like a good idea, the baja did come out pinkish, but it's a fitting pinkish.
    That fact it never touched the body is pointless. Lexan flexes, krylon drys hard and doesn't..... Bata boom,bata bing... then it flakes off.

  8. #8
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    BTW, thanks for the kudos on the paintjob. It's time consuming, but worth it. It will have a vinyl decal for wired energy drink on it whenever I catch the sticker guy at the chrome shop during business hours hopefully. That will be cobalt blue with a red shadow outline.
    Last edited by gittyup; 01-21-2010 at 10:24 PM.

  9. #9
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    be sure to post pics when you get it there. my bodies tend to be ran hard, very hard, but i do appreciate the attention to detail some invest in these bodies. alot of times it's half the hobby!

    my understanding about the problem with krylon was adhesion, not flexibility. it makes much more sense now though. we'll see how it turns out, i have no problem repainting if need be.

  10. #10
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    it is both adhesion & flexibility properties to lexan-special paint

    for adhesion... you can lay down a coat of lexan paint like Tamiya PS55
    flatclear on the inside, then paint over it. Tamiya PS will etch into the lexan,
    your paint keys into the PS.

    Flexibility depends on how thick you've laid the paint; misted thinly you can
    get away with using auto paints... but if you slap it on too thick - good luck

  11. #11
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    florescent and translucent should be backed with SILVER.
    Ur wife called. She said buy anything U want!

  12. #12
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    Has anyone had any success with any of the plastic specific spray paints. I know Krylon makes one. I guess it supposed to bond on a molecular level with the plastic? Just wondering because it's pretty cheap from Home Depot, etc compared to Pactra at my LHS.

  13. #13
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    Silver will make it brigther and gold warmer well if it's not that that what I alway did and it ended up like I want.
    No pain! No Gain!

  14. #14
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    If you have a michaels craft store they some paint for pretty cheap made by testors , it works pretty well....

  15. #15
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    I always have used the pactra opaque flour white cover coat for rattle bombs, then once done have backed with an acrylic lacquer. Even with the pactras you want to be careful not to overshoot too much paint on there. IMO that is what causes most of the flaking. Just a few light coats is all you need.

    Backing with a sliver will give you a truer flour colour
    Backing with white will make it pop but lighten the shade
    Painting bodies good from far, but far from good

  16. #16
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    I use plain white polycarb paint. When I first started using fluorescent a decade ago, I used Pactra's specific "white fluorescent undercoat," which is actully just a flat white enamel. Works fine but dries slowly, goes on too heavy, and doesn't like polycarb paint sprayed on top of it (not the best adhesion). Nowadays when using rattle cans I only use Tamiya brand because it's 100% superior to the Pactra stuff -- higher pressure and the Tamiya nozzles have a much finer spray.

    I've tried a silver backing once by accident, and it came out not nearly as bright as white. The brighter the color (I use fluoro. yellow in my trademark theme), the more important white is. After everything's completely backed, I like to back *everything* with black to avoid a toyish look when people see through the windows or in low photos that let you see under the fenders.
    The #1 Traxxas RC fan, 12 years & counting!

  17. #17
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    I have used Krylon Fusion as a protective coat on several bodies without any problems. It is very tough and resists scratching better than any of the lexan paints. Never had a problem with it cracking or peeling.
    Only thing to be careful of is not to put on a thick wet coat, because it can cause Fascolor to "crackle".
    Last edited by condor414; 01-23-2010 at 02:02 PM.

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