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  1. #1
    RC Competitor
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    Boise, Idaho
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    Repairing Front Differential and more...

    Parts are going to be here today.

    Here's what I got:

    Aluminum Big Bore Shocks

    Part #6830 - Front Bulkhead

    Part #6881 - Front Differential Housing

    I made a long post about this last week after this happened: Read here.


    So this is my first RC Repair job and first RC car. So I am looking for tips. ( I would eventually like to assemble an FAQ for all new RC owners based on all this information I am learning in these forums. )

    Given Requirements

    - This is my first RC car. I am not mechanically experienced, but am a geek and am enjoying the hobby of repairing and tuning just as much as running the vehicle.

    - For now I am just learning, so a lot of bashing on dirt and asphalt.

    - I would like to be "racing" by this spring.

    - I read a lot and like to soak up information, so any links, videos, FAQ's or any helpful information is highly desirable.

    Issue #1: Front Differential Housing

    Questions:

    1) From what I understand I am supposed to fill this with grease? If so how much and what weight?

    2) There is a part (sorry don't have the exploded view with me), that had a big gear and is surrounded by small arms on bearings. This part seems to have some "rings" with a blue rubber material in the middle on each side of the gear. Does anything special need to happen with these, grease or anything of that nature?

    3) What should or shouldn't receive grease in this process. It all seems pretty straight forward, just reassemble and fill the differential house with grease, make sure I get good seals and lock it down tight?

    Issue #2: I need to loctite all screws that are metal to metal, right?

    Questions:

    1) What loctite do you use, brand, type, weight?

    2) Is it possible to use too much loctite, how much should be used?

    Issue #3: New big bore shocks

    1) Shock oil: What weight should I use? Sounds like 50 front and 60 rear I will have to pick up some from the LHS, what brand is recommended. I know they have Traxxas Brand and Losi, not sure what else they have.

    Issue #4: General Maintenance

    Questions:

    1) How do I adjust the slipper clutch? From the top or bottom?

    2) Is there anything else I should adjust, fix or be cognizant of while performing these repairs?

    Thank you for taking the time to read this thread all input and guidance is welcome.

    Best,
    Nathan

  2. #2
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    115
    the slash tool box came with a wrench with narrow edges which alow just enough space to stick the wrench in and get to the adjust nut while it's on the car. Although you can only turn it like 1/8 or less turn per. I uasually hold the tires on the table, push the car to get the wrench in possition then hold the car and move the wrench and repeat for tightening or loostening.

    seems to be pretty easy after you do it and it alows you to count small movements of adjustment rather then trying to sort out if you loostened or tightened 1/4" turn or what ever.

    b.

  3. #3
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    Thanks. Sounds like you are doing it from the top with the body off ?

  4. #4
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    I use MOBIL1 red grease in a tube for my diff gears and for my inner diff gears or spider gears I recommend silicone grease and for racing the weight of that depends on the track and your driving style. Now for bashing it matters but not as critical as for racing. For bashing I would stick with the stock requirements and for racing I put in 10w in front and 30w in rear and 50w in center. These weights may change but is just a starting point. I use an OFNA loctite as it doesn't get too hard as others that I have tried. DO NOT use a strong loctite as this will/can damage screws. Yes metal/metal needs loctite. Just a drop or two on the threads is all that's needed. The threads should look wet not soaked like it's dripping off the screw. Don't overtighten anything and be sensitive to these small parts as it is very easy to strip things. For racing I have removed the slipper and installed the center diff you might want to think about this if your intentions is to race. Now I would keep the slipper for bashing. As for shocks that is a whole other story as weights and piston holes can have the same response. I'll try and find a link for you that has helped me understand what I'm trying to acheive through tuning my shocks.
    JESUS says: "Fix it B4 it Breaks!"

  5. #5
    RC Competitor
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    Thank you very much. Excellent information. I don't think I have to be married to the shock weight oil. For the diff housing, I assemble and fill with a silicone grease and then seal it up?

    Any idea on part number or where to get a center differential?

    Best,
    Nathan

  6. #6
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    My CD came with my PE and I'm not home to give you the part# but I'm sure somebody will answer you soon enough. Yes fill up the diff about half way and be careful with that o-ring as it's fragile I keep a couple of spares around for that reason TRA5581.
    JESUS says: "Fix it B4 it Breaks!"

  7. #7
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    Yeah I wish I would've had the foresight to get the PE. But being new to the hobby and impatient I just picked up a RTR at the LHS.

    Are you referring to O-Ring #5381?

    I believe it is important to note that my actual gear #5379X and surrounding gears and housing are all still in tact. It is the housing that surrounds it #6881 that is being replaced. Am I supposed to fill that with Grease or just rub grease around the gears?

    http://www.traxxas.com/PDF-Library/6808_front.pdf

  8. #8
    RC poster
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    Broken Arrow, Okla
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    Thanks for the post and the questions Pngwyn. This is my first RC car as well and I have been lurking on here for about a month reading, learning and just trying to figure what everyone is talking about in these discussions. I will learn a lot from your questions and the "experts" replies. There is so much to learn that my head is just spinning when I read all of these threads.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pngwyn
    Yeah I wish I would've had the foresight to get the PE. But being new to the hobby and impatient I just picked up a RTR at the LHS.

    Are you referring to O-Ring #5381?

    I believe it is important to note that my actual gear #5379X and surrounding gears and housing are all still in tact. It is the housing that surrounds it #6881 that is being replaced. Am I supposed to fill that with Grease or just rub grease around the gears?

    http://www.traxxas.com/PDF-Library/6808_front.pdf
    Just rub grease around the gears. RC grease would be preferred as it is able to handle way more RPM's than car grease. I just got a tub of GorillaSnawt and will see if it is as good as the syringe tubes of MOBIL1 I have been using.
    JESUS says: "Fix it B4 it Breaks!"

  10. #10
    RC Competitor
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    Thank you.

  11. #11
    RC poster
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingdomracer
    I use MOBIL1 red grease in a tube for my diff gears and for my inner diff gears or spider gears I recommend silicone grease and for racing the weight of that depends on the track and your driving style. Now for bashing it matters but not as critical as for racing. For bashing I would stick with the stock requirements and for racing I put in 10w in front and 30w in rear and 50w in center. These weights may change but is just a starting point. I use an OFNA loctite as it doesn't get too hard as others that I have tried. DO NOT use a strong loctite as this will/can damage screws. Yes metal/metal needs loctite. Just a drop or two on the threads is all that's needed. The threads should look wet not soaked like it's dripping off the screw. Don't overtighten anything and be sensitive to these small parts as it is very easy to strip things. For racing I have removed the slipper and installed the center diff you might want to think about this if your intentions is to race. Now I would keep the slipper for bashing. As for shocks that is a whole other story as weights and piston holes can have the same response. I'll try and find a link for you that has helped me understand what I'm trying to acheive through tuning my shocks.
    So I'm assuming that the gear grease, shock oil etc are all things that you would need to pick up from your LHS or order online? I guess what I'm trying to clarify is that this isn't your basic automotive "fluids" but specific to RC's? Sorry for the dumb questions but I really have no clue at this point.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sooner4Life
    So I'm assuming that the gear grease, shock oil etc are all things that you would need to pick up from your LHS or order online? I guess what I'm trying to clarify is that this isn't your basic automotive "fluids" but specific to RC's? Sorry for the dumb questions but I really have no clue at this point.
    Let's get one thing clear right now NO QUESTION IS DUMB! Yes the grease should be RC hobby specific. Here is a link for what I just switched over too:
    http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=gor...nawt&_osacat=0

    And here is a link for what I've been using since I started:
    http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Mobil-1-Grease

    And yes shock oils need to be specific for RC shocks and they need to be silicone. Also the LHS should have stuff in stock that should work, although I do recommend getting a grease that is for higher RPM's.
    Last edited by KingdomRacer; 01-07-2010 at 09:41 PM.
    JESUS says: "Fix it B4 it Breaks!"

  13. #13
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    Victory is Mine!

    Well it took about 2.5 hours from the point of disassembly. But I took a lot of time getting it all put back together.

    What I learned:

    The slipper clutch is a lot easier to work on/adjust outside of the vehicle.

    Shocks are a lot easier to work with fill etc when you aren't goofing with the spring.

    When you are filling your shocks with silicone, fill 3/4 of the way first and fully compress the shock a few times to get out air bubbles, then fully extend and finish filling.

    Big bore shocks come with oil. I got separate front and rear packages so I assume the weights were different, they seemed different viscosity, and the stock oils are supposed to be different (per the manual) so, I just used the stock oil.

    The big bore alum traxxas shocks have a good feel and rebound to them. Without springs my stock plastic shocks wouldn't rebound when filled with oil and the alum rebound great.

    I don't think the grease for the front differential I got is thick enough nor did I use enough of it, I believe I am just going to get a good silicone oil and fill it.

    The big bore shocks have a smaller "ball nut" (whatever that thing is called.) so using the stock 3x15 screws you will screw through your A-Arms causing the screw to go a little too far into them. (ooops!)

    I had a great time repairing! I took my time cleaning and greasing as I went, I could've done it in half the time, but I was thoroughly enjoying myself!

    Thanks for your help everyone.

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