DeWalt Conversion

[Hack Job]

A few people have asked me how I did my conversion. If you can solder, the mod is fairly painless. It’s also cheap. The whole thing probably cost about $75. If you keep the dual mount plate and tape the hole and skip some of the other stuff, you could probably get it done for less than $35. Here’s a thread with my truck: http://www.traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=492844. Also, there are many other links in the forum with pictures and other ideas on this conversion. This is just how I did it.

Supplies
6” - Black 12ga wire (motor to ESC)
6” - Red 12ga wire (motor to ESC)
4ea - Male bullet connectors
3ea - 100nF Capacitors
1 - Rear motor mount; TRX p/n: 5660
1 - Single motor mount plate; TRX p/n: 5690X
1 - Single gear cover; TRX p/n: 5677X
1 - Spacer (fabricated)
2 - Motor to motor mount screws; 4mm countersunk head
1 - DeWalt motor; p/n: 396505-20
2 - Replacement brushes; p/n: 493511-00
1 - RRP pinion; 18t (w/ 5mm hole - stock pinions won’t work on the DeWalt)
1 - Spur gear, 62t; TRX p/n: 3959
Heat transfer compound
Semi-gloss black testers model paint
Shrink tube


Procedure
1. Remove the brushes from the motor; solder on the power wires. I used solid brass bullets from my LHS. They plug right into the Traxxas ones. As for the wires, I used (2) 3” wires for each side. I used el cheapo bulk wire from Lowes, not very flexible but its sufficient.
2. Remove the pinion gear from the DeWalt. Be careful not to bend the shaft. I scored the gear between 2 teeth with a dremel cut off desk (also score the gear on the opposite side). Then while firmly supporting the gear on an anvil, I hit a chisel placed between the teeth on one of the score marks. The pinion cracked in half.
3. Slightly flatten 1 side of the motor shaft for the pinion set grub screw. Dremel it, then smooth with a file. Don’t install the new pinion yet. Be sure to blow all of the debris out of the motor.
4. Solder the caps to the motor as follows (you will need a powerful iron to heat the tabs enough or the caps will pop off every time you crash):
a. [1] Positive terminal to motor can
b. [2] Negative terminal to motor can
c. [3] Positive terminal to Negative terminal
5. Paint the motor black. Not sure if it really helps, but there are arguments that the black paint helps to dissipate heat. Regardless, it looks better anyways. I also painted the motor mount & spacer (detailed below). Also, some argue that you should run the motor in a cup of water to break it in. I broke mine in at full throttle on the street. Works great!
6. Reinstall the brushes w/ power wires.
7. Enlarge the holes on the motor mount. I filled the original holes all in with JB weld. After letting it cure overnight, I smoothed out the inside surface for a clean look then drilled & countersunk new mount holes to perfectly align with the oversized motor.
8. To get the pinion to fully line up with the spur you may have to make a spacer. The spacer fits between the mount and the motor. I used a 1/8” piece of aluminum. You’ll have to notch the spacer so the tabs on the motor can don’t interfere. I put the heat transfer compound (computer supply store) on both sides of the spacer. May not be necessary, but oh well.
9. Assemble the motor/spacer/motor mount; use the 4mm countersunk screws. I had to do this at the counter of my LHS so I could get the best grip length. Now, install the pinion. Some people have not had to use the spacer. You may be able to just put the pinion on backwards. Wouldn’t line up for me that way. Do what you have to do.
10. You may have to assembly everything in step 9 a few times to get the gears to align (including adjusting pinion spacing on the motor shaft & varying the thickness of the spacer).
11. Install the new motor mount plate on the gearbox (you’ll have to remove the gearbox)
12. Install the new motor setup & new gear cover.
13. Plug everything in, install batts & bash.
14. Note - the gearing I used, 18/62, is a good mix between speed & acceleration. Also, I’m using 16.8v NiMH, not lipo.
15. Here’s a few I referenced (and thanks to the authors):
a. http://www.traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=478448
b. http://www.traxxas.com/forums/showth...t+installation
c. http://www.traxxas.com/forums/showth...ghlight=smoked


Parts
DeWalt motor p/n # 396505-20 (I actually bought mine from a local DeWalt repair center + they gave me some stickers to go with it)
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...ken=&pop=flush
Brushes p/n # 603754-01
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...ken=&pop=flush
Caps
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062365

Note the brushes are in case you need replacements. I’ve abused this motor for several months now with no problems and I’ve never replaced them. And to save a few bucks, you could reuse the caps & wires from the titans.

[T-MAXXTER]

Great how to! I need to review it more but I was wondering how you know which caps to choose and what their purpose is for? I was also wondering how those worked for you because someone reviewed them on the Rad Shack site and said for his RC application, they didn't work so good. Thanks for the good info.

[Hack Job]

One of the other posts on here with the dewalt conversion listed those caps, so i used them as well. Different sized ones may work better, i'm not sure. I do know that my iron barely gets hot enough to solder them to the motor so they pop off occasionally if its a nasty crash. I can instantly tell if one or more came loose because the glitching starts instantly.

So in my experience they work well, but maybe someone with more of an electrical background can say if other caps would work better.

[Notin_but_aRevo]

One of the other posts on here with the dewalt conversion listed those caps, so i used them as well. Different sized ones may work better, i'm not sure. I do know that my iron barely gets hot enough to solder them to the motor so they pop off occasionally if its a nasty crash. I can instantly tell if one or more came loose because the glitching starts instantly.

So in my experience they work well, but maybe someone with more of an electrical background can say if other caps would work better.

i don't think it matter's what cap's are used as long as you have all three

[T-MAXXTER]

Its gotta matter a little because they have different values. I would think they have to relate to input voltages, etc. This would be one for the electrical pros to answer.

[cubsfan2010]

For a easier motor lead installation I used these: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTJ21&P=ML

For the second lead I removed them from my dead Titan, bared a bit of the new wires and soldered together. Nice clean install, removable, and the no-solder ends slid perfectly onto the Dewalt brush flats.

I went for 20/62 gearing which gave alot of speed but still safe motor temps. I do run in a wide open area, so a 19 or 20/68 would be safer for tighter areas.

[Hack Job]

For a easier motor lead installation I used these: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTJ21&P=ML

I went for 20/62 gearing which gave alot of speed but still safe motor temps. I do run in a wide open area, so a 19 or 20/68 would be safer for tighter areas.

20/68 should be about 3.40, and 18/62 about 3.44. So for two given gear sets being almost equal, would one be more beneficial or efficient over the other? A 17/58 is also numerically equivalent at 3.41.

I'm using the 18/62, and i was just wondering if there would be anthing to gain from using a different but equal ratio.

[Notin_but_aRevo]

I'm using the 18/62, and i was just wondering if there would be anthing to gain from using a different but equal ratio.

no there will be no benefit if they are almost identical ....

actually with the gear combo's that have fewer total teeth will be slightly lighter lol

[T-MAXXTER]

That's right. The only time you would need to switch up is when there is a motor or spur gear clearance issue. Sometimes you need to raise one while lowering the other to make the motor clear an obstacle. Or if you've max'd out the spur gear size but still need more torque, you then need to decrease pinion size. Its all about fitment (and availability of gear sizes too).

[gix1kguy]

what kind of speed are u getting with this motor? this is interesting

[Hack Job]

I can't say for sure what the exact numbers are, maybe someone on here could calculate it...but its noticeably faster than with the titans. I'm using 5000mah 8.4v batts from john the battery guy & a similiar pair of DTX 5000's.

I have 2 Robinson Racing pinions - 18t & 20t, and 62, 65, and 68t spurs that i've been using. Speed and acceleration are excellent with all of the combos i've tried, but the batts don't last as long with real steep gearing.

I have yet to be able to make it pop wheelies from a standstill; seems i always have to have at least a little reverse momentum. That may be the tmaxx chevron tires though. They just spin. The talons were the same way. If I had some tires that hooked up, i think it would always be upside down.

[cubsfan2010]

Now that it's cold outside I have a hard time getting a wheelie. The cold rubber won't hook up well and spins. When it was warmer it was fairly easy to lift the front and scrap the wing with no reversing. Running Dewalt with 20/62 and 2 x 2s lipo.

Best guess on speed was at least 30+ mph before strapping my tires. Tons of torque to boot for ripping acceleration. Now with strapping in place and very little tire ballooning 'overdrive' I think I'm at about a even 30 mph. Regardless it just feels amazingly more powerful than the Titans.

[Hack Job]

The cold rubber doesn't help i'm sure. Probably if i had some softer tires i'd get better results for all bashing surfaces.

I taped & balanced the tires/rims as well. I think the balancing helped more than anything.

[phil666]

seems really nice. i wish i could know someone in montreal Canada could do the swap to the dewalt. i'm not so good with my hands.I want to stay brushed because i want to go on water and snow and stay out of lipo's. does someone knows somebody in my area? thanks guys. and one other thing, what's the best set up:
dewalt , the 700 ho , or 900 or 950 i don't remember.

[Notin_but_aRevo]

seems really nice. i wish i could know someone in montreal Canada could do the swap to the dewalt. i'm not so good with my hands.I want to stay brushed because i want to go on water and snow and stay out of lipo's. does someone knows somebody in my area? thanks guys. and one other thing, what's the best set up:
dewalt , the 700 ho , or 900 or 950 i don't remember.

i live in BC canada ...if you pay for shipping and include return shipping cost i will make it work for you ..just send me your dewalt motor and you motor mount and i will supply the cap's, solder up the cap's,remove the dewalt pinion and widen the motor mount hole's for you....its really not hard you could definitely do it on your own

i could show you picture's of my dewalt conversion

[phil666]

thanks Notin_but_aRevo ,i'll think about that offer. it's really nice of you. i'll check out to make the list and start to plan this, finding my parts. and another question ,some people spoke about 2 kind of dewalt 12v ,is somebody knows wich one is better? and can i put a 14.4 motor?
thank you guys

[CRAIGSASYLUM]

the best way to find the dewalt motor

http://www.dewalt.com/us/service/center_finder.asp

[phil666]

Notin_but_aRevo
i would like to see some pics of your conversion please. should be really nice.
thanks. and someone told that makita is lighter and it's got more power.

[Notin_but_aRevo]

thanks Notin_but_aRevo ,i'll think about that offer. it's really nice of you. i'll check out to make the list and start to plan this, finding my parts. and another question ,some people spoke about 2 kind of dewalt 12v ,is somebody knows wich one is better? and can i put a 14.4 motor?
thank you guys

yes there are 2 different dewalt motor's for each voltage new style and old style you want the new style it will be easier to make work...


the 18v is a lower Kv motor so it will spin slower but will have more torque you could easily gear the 18v up to reach similar speed's as the 12v or 14.4v.my 18v i had geared 54t/18t and it was only warm

here are some photo's of my conversion
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...0/100_0020.jpg
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...0/100_0021.jpg

[CRAIGSASYLUM]

I have beat on my dewalt hard, crazy gearing, 5 cell lipo, high amp load, big tires, hydroplaned it and its still running, I'd say its the best thing you can do to an E-revo short of brushless

[Notin_but_aRevo]

I have beat on my dewalt hard, crazy gearing, 5 cell lipo, high amp load, big tires, hydroplaned it and its still running, I'd say its the best thing you can do to an E-revo short of brushless

the dewalt are IMO some of the best brushed motor's available and fit without any hard modification ..

i would like to see some pics of your conversion please. should be really nice.
thanks. and someone told that makita is lighter and it's got more power.

i have no experience with makita motor's but i would assume they would work just as good..makita came out with a new lithium powered 18v drill that is very light.. depending on the makita's motor hole spacing it should be easy to install

[Hack Job]

Has anyone made a rear support for a dewalt? I've noticed that its weight causes the motor mount plate to flex a bit. My spur gears are showing wear on the back side because of the flex. Spurs are cheap enough to replace, but a simple way to hold the back of the motor would make things last a little longer.

If you could take the can off of the motor and work it over on a belt sander you could probably save about a pound and a half.

[Hack Job]

Since my truck is NMC i thought I'd take a couple extra pics of the dewalt. I also blasted it out with some brake cleaner and reoiled the bushings.

These pics have a little more detail on the spacer. I know some people don't use a spacer, but i couldn't get the gears to align without it. Anyway, its made out of 3/32" aluminum. Its cut & sanded to match the profile of the ribbed motor mount. There's also a small notch filed in one corner to allow for a tighter fit on the motor. I drilled the center hole just a bit larger than the pinion for easy removal.

http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/100_3779.jpg
http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/100_3783.jpg
http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/100_3781.jpg
http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/100_3786.jpg
http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/100_3787.jpg
http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/100_3788.jpg
http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/100_3784.jpg
http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/100_3785.jpg

[phil666]

i bought de dual dewalt conversion from Kd. i just post a mail and ask him if could do something for my erevo.it's 175$. not so bad.

[rattboy]

So how has everyones dewalt conversion been holding up? I heard there was an issue of the dewalt motors not really liking lipo batteries? Is that true? Of course i only heard about this just a few days after i did my conversion and all i own are lipo's lol

[noir522]

lipos are fine with the dewalt. I just did 5s on my dewalt last night - no issues.

[cubsfan2010]

I've run about 30 sets of 6000mah lipo's through my Dewalt running 21/62 gearing and it is holding up excellent. Hasn't missed a beat and feels just as powerful as the 1st packs. Brushes look to have worn about maybe 1/3 of the way down, so I'm on track for about 90 runs b4 a re-brush.

Power is amazing on 4s and I would imagine 5s would be approaching brushless power levels.

[rattboy]

I've run about 30 sets of 6000mah lipo's through my Dewalt running 21/62 gearing and it is holding up excellent. Hasn't missed a beat and feels just as powerful as the 1st packs. Brushes look to have worn about maybe 1/3 of the way down, so I'm on track for about 90 runs b4 a re-brush.

Power is amazing on 4s and I would imagine 5s would be approaching brushless power levels.

Good! thats exactly what i wanted to hear! Someone was telling me on RCU that lipo's have too much amperage for the dewalt motor, and his started slowing down, getting hot and burnt up his comm after 20 runs. Maybe it was just an isolated incedent. And as for running 5s isnt that too much voltage for the stock ESC?

[zrau17]

I was wondering the same thing^^^ and I'm new to brushed motors. I can't find anything on how to actually solder the leads on and take the brushes out. I'm also VERY confused on how the evx2 works....I know there is two different battery connections on the esc, but apparently they are different? How? I'm doing an erevo build and saving the electronics for last for this exact reason. Any help is appreciated.

[rattboy]

I was wondering the same thing^^^ and I'm new to brushed motors. I can't find anything on how to actually solder the leads on and take the brushes out. I'm also VERY confused on how the evx2 works....I know there is two different battery connections on the esc, but apparently they are different? How? I'm doing an erevo build and saving the electronics for last for this exact reason. Any help is appreciated.

heres a video on how to change the brushes, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dtb8SdsMQXo after i watched this i felt dumb because it becomes pretty obvious, but i didnt know either. when you get them out you will see a male spade connector, just find a few matching female conectors and you are set. I soldered both red and both black motor wires to the female conectors and then just slid them on before i put the brushes back in. I also put heat shrink on and covered the entire female conector with it. the 2 battery leads on the evx2 esc are different only in that one of them supplies power to the reciever and the other one doesnt. other than that there is nothing to worry about.

[zrau17]

oh, well that work lol. but i cant figure out this whole esc thing. whats the difference in the two battery leads?

[rattboy]

theres nothing different, except the power for the reciever comes from one of them, im not sure wich one and its really not important anyway. Or am i missing somethng that you wanted to know? You do know that you must have a battery plugged into BOTH of the battery leads for it to work, right?

[zrau17]

Yeah I know that lol. I just remember seeing somewhere that one did something different than the other one but I wasn't sure what. It was on the topic of LVC's I think?

[T-MAXXTER]

If your gonna hook up one LVC you hook it up to the battery that is plugged to the lead that powers the Rx. It runs the BEC (battery eliminating circuit) which regulates a 6 volt power supply that the Rx needs to work correctly. You run your LVC on that side because it should be the one that drains faster therefor cutting off the truck earlier then later to be on the safe side.

[zrau17]

Yeah see that's why I wanted to know lol. Any direction on which side that actually is?

[needapeed]

So the evx2 can handle 5s ok?

What would be a better option...evx2 and dewalt, or the 150a/80A with a generic BL motor (say a 10xl) on 4s/5s?

[noir522]

depends on how much power/ how fast/ how much you wanna spend.

Dewalt - new motor + lvc (or lva) +wires = $40
325 watss of power, 20-33 mph with gearing

ezrun 80 -bl motor +esc = $130-$145
800 watts of power, 45 mph

ezrun 150 -bl motor + esc = $210 - $230
approx 1200 watts (depend on lipos), 65+ mph

[cubsfan2010]

Yeah see that's why I wanted to know lol. Any direction on which side that actually is?

Hook up one battery to one of the sides and try to turn it on. When hooked to the BEC side the green light will flash briefly.

[cubsfan2010]

depends on how much power/ how fast/ how much you wanna spend.

Dewalt - new motor + lvc (or lva) +wires = $40
325 watss of power, 20-33 mph with gearing

ezrun 80 -bl motor +esc = $130-$145
800 watts of power, 45 mph

ezrun 150 -bl motor + esc = $210 - $230
approx 1200 watts (depend on lipos), 65+ mph

I've never found the watt rating for the Dewalt, but it feels like alot more than just 325 watts. Maybe it just has so much torque that it feels like more, but it is way more than the dual Titans.

[T-MAXXTER]

Hook up one battery to one of the sides and try to turn it on. When hooked to the BEC side the green light will flash briefly.

I never found that to work on mine but it will work in reverse... after your next run is over, disconnect your batteries one at a time and if the first one you unplug makes the light on the ESC go out immediately, then that is the BEC plug. If the light stays on for a second or 2, then the plug with the other battery connected is the BEC side. It is usually the harness that has the red tag wrapped around it.

As for 5s, the EVX-2 was not built for that so I wouldn't recommend trying it and I don't know why anyone would suggest it. The car was made to run at a peak of 16.8volts. Beyond that and your asking for smoke. And if you do try it with one 2S and one 3S pack, you have to hook up the 2S pack to the BEC connector or you risk overheating and burning it out with the added 3S voltage being applied to it. Don't try hooking any more then 2S to the built in BEC. Use an external one rated for what you plan to run. And while running the external one, your still powering the internal one so expect that to not work again if you ever go back to 2S.