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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Slipper clutch plate damaged.

    I've been using my erbe now for a few times. I guess about 10 runs with full batteries. Most of them on 6S.

    Today I noticed that my slipper clutch kept slipping, even on 2x2S.
    I couldn't tighten it anymore, so there was probably something wrong.

    Removed the whole thing and I found out that the plate holding the pads has been rubbing agains the plate that's mounted on the axle.
    But it has not been rubbing on the outside, but on the inside:





    You can see that the inner part is damaged.
    Now, before I order some new parts, I wanted to ask you guys what you think went wrong? Did I overtighten the slipper? Are the pads already worn? Is the plate bent?

    Are there any stronger parts on the market I should look into, before getting the standard parts?

    Many thanks for your help...

  2. #2
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    I am not sure what happened, but you might want to look into the new BL maxx slipper, it's aluminum pads resist heat better than the stock semi-metallic.
    Got LiPo?
    X-Ray XB8R w/Novak HV Pro 5.5

  3. #3
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    Yeah, I was looking at those.
    Unfortunately there's no part list available yet, so I don't know what number to look for...

  4. #4
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    If I am seeing what I think that I am seeing, I think that your pads wore down to much. In the first picture your pads look pretty rough, though your could have over tightened it because of lack of pads.
    http://www.youtube.com/user/Revoman859

  5. #5
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    Really?
    Do you have any idea what the normel thickness is when they are new?
    Is there something like a minimum thickness???

    Mine are now around 2.41mm or 0.095in (measured with a digital caliper)

    Edit:
    Just noticed, thats on the outer side of the pads. The inner is only 2.1mm or 0.082in. So it seems that the pressure plate was bent a little causing the uneven wear and probably the damage on the inside of the plate.

    I need those alu e-maxx pads really bad! But I guess I'll have to do with some new stock ones until they are available.
    Any tips on good slipper usage? Especially brake-in?
    Last edited by PIR3lly; 12-11-2009 at 09:59 AM.

  6. #6
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    Looks like mainly over tightening to me.
    -Harry | Racing and Painting
    1stGenPaint

  7. #7
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    Yeah, I guess that's probably it...

    Don't know my own strenght

    But what I don't understand is how people do standing backflips without over tightening the slipper clutch?
    I mean, I've never been able to do a backflip (even on 6S), I've always heard the slipper whirrrrrrr.
    Could this be because I didn't do a proper brake-in of the pads. Or because I overtightened from the beginning?
    Last edited by PIR3lly; 12-11-2009 at 10:08 AM.

  8. #8
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    If they were over tightened your not getting full grip from the pads because it's like the outside of the pad is lifting up and not gripping correctly like a tire that has bad camber and the inside wears faster than the outside. Buy the new disk,pads and the part the pads go on and don't over tighten it this time. I can do standing backflips on 4s but I don't reccomend it you will destroy driveshafts like I did.
    Xerun 150A 2200kv ERBE
    Dewalt 14.4v Summit

  9. #9
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    My opinion afer 2 years of use, the Clutch is delicate to adjust.
    Over-tighten it will bend/damage the slipperplates, see pic.
    http://s783.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=P1020923.jpg


    In short:
    too tight>damage
    not tight enough>No Wheelies
    Last edited by JEAM; 12-11-2009 at 10:23 AM.

  10. #10
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    Thanks for that picture.
    Tried it on mine and indeed, that one is bend.
    But the plate where the pads are on is even worse.

    I ordered the parts.
    Will try not to overtighten it next time. I guess the spring shouldn't be compressed completely?
    Any tips for best pad brake-in would be very much appreciated.
    Last edited by PIR3lly; 12-11-2009 at 10:45 AM.

  11. #11
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    Starting with new parts, here's how I prep a new slipper clutch to hold all the power you can throw at it, while still doing it's job.

    First off, make sure the slipper material is glued well on the spur carrier. I use black high temperature RTV for this. Then lightly sand the friction material on some 120 grit sand paper on a flat surface to make sure the contact area is flat and uniform thickness. Once that's done, take the slipper plate [the consumable metal disk] and run it across the 120 grit paper to get a good swirl pattern. You're not going for shiny, you're going for flat and dull with visible scratching/swirling.

    Once that's done, put everything together and tighten down for a little bit of slipping. With everything adjusted about right, the slipper will slip slightly when cold, but once warm should be just about right, able to take full throttle without slip on 4s unless you're doing a nearly full throttle jump landing, in which case it will take the drive line shock as it's supposed to.

    Once the pads are broken in good [2-3 packs taking it relatively easy, enough throttle for some slip but not full on meltdown mode], you can adjust to preference and should have a fairly long lasting slipper.
    -Harry | Racing and Painting
    1stGenPaint

  12. #12
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    I take that thin metal disc and roughen it up with sandpaper (so the slipper pads will grab better), I then take a wire wheel and knock the shine off the slipper pads and my slipper works great.
    OH WELL, YOU SHOULD HAVE BOUGHT A TEKIN RX8...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gasout
    I am not sure what happened, but you might want to look into the new BL maxx slipper, it's aluminum pads resist heat better than the stock semi-metallic.

    Are there any other suggestions or alternatives to stock slipper clutch. This is an item i'm also looking to upgrade from stock. Haven't been able to find BL maxx slipper?!

  14. #14
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    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRMH7&P=7

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXBL8&P=7

    or

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYGN5&P=7

    I tried them both and they work pretty good, the first option you need to drill the mounting holes.
    Painting bodies good from far, but far from good

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mohnston
    Thank you! I've seen others using a solid core using various friction matterials...any other suggestions out there?!

  16. #16
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    hi @ all!

    very great, you all speak my language and telle me i'm not alone... i've been turning my 3rd slipper pad set into dust ans smoke within two weeks (ERBE on 6S) and now i know why after i saw the first two pictures!

    and yes, i think i've tightened the slipper toooo much as well ... especially when it was warm or hot... and now the arms of the carrier are bent back and the plate where they are slipping on is damaged too. maybe just this plate (which is part of the slipper renew kit) should be made out of a harder material, not als elastic like original....

    i just think a complete slipper disc will spread the preassure more and will be working better than the 3 pads. and aluminium will be better than the original stuff... so i'm working on a selfmade slipper disc out of alloy. sized like the brake disc of the t-maxx which can be used as a slipper disk as well (i've red in some postings, i'm going to try this in the next days)... a disc like mistercrash made out of carbon fibre but aluminium ... ( http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=464362 ) a friend can do them in his machine shop and maybe i can share a few!

    but i've to wait for the repair parts (preassure plate and slipper carrier)... still on snail mail ... i'll report my results!

    cheers, jochen!

  17. #17
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    I had slipper problems also in the beginning until I switched over to RObinsonRacing Heavy Duty Slipper Plate and their Spur Gears that come with the high performance slipper pads and have never had a problem again. The trick for me on how much to back off depends on the size lipo I'm using. For 6s I back off a 1/4 turn and for 4s about a 1/2 turn and 5s in between 1/4 and 1/2 turn. It also helps to understand that when the slipper spring becomes fully compressed is the starting point of backing off. In the beginning I thought I should be tightening the spring until it got tight and although this is true it is not accurate. You should stop when the springs touch each other.
    JESUS says: "Fix it B4 it Breaks!"

  18. #18
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    I also had this problem and I figured that it was due to overheating. The excessive heat caused the backing plate for the disk to bend away from the pads due to the pressure the pads were exerting as the motor was turning. I noticed at some point during my run that I was getting excessive slipping, then a clutch smell so I stopped and took her appart and that what I found. The reason for the overheating in the first place was too large of tires on stock gearing and 6S lipos.

  19. #19
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    hi @ all!

    exactly the same happend to my ERBE ... just replaced the complete slipper system today... not only the pads and the disc, the backplate as well ...

    how can i post or attach pictures here? pics say more than 1k words...

    cheers, jochen!

  20. #20
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    hi @ all!

    now i've been running the stock slipper and my experiments with my own slipper discs for a long time without having any problems... i've just been turning my ESC into dust but it was replaced by warranty without any troubles ... ...

    today i've been surfing around in the losi parts house and i found what i've been searching for previously: steel spur and hardcore slipper!!!

    http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...P-Gen-3/Detail

    i've just ordered it!!! and now i'm waiting ....

    cheers, jochen!

  21. #21
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    This Hot Racing unit works well and runs cooler than stock: http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...=TRX15GP;c=431
    Never do anything half fast. Hey Ya'll, watch this

  22. #22
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    @globo: wow, looks great as well.... seems more guys than us who require slippers more than once .... cheers, jochen!

  23. #23
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    i modified a tmaxx brake disc and it has been working perfect for me so far. here is a link.
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSP66&P=ML

  24. #24
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadrunner6903
    i modified a tmaxx brake disc and it has been working perfect for me so far. here is a link.
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSP66&P=ML
    +1 to this method works a treat and is cheap to do, nver had any slipper problems since
    I need more R/C cash.....

  25. #25
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    hi @ all! two days ago i turned another slipper into dust again. today i built in the new RRB slipper, pics can be found here: http://picasaweb.google.com/jochen.hoeg/EREVO ... due to rain i could not test... but i'll report soon! cheers, jochen!

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