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  1. #41
    RC Racer
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    Now I think about a solution 2 prevent the four screws from loosening a different way. In engineering there are several solutions for that problem. I only have 2 find a suitable one for an RC car.[/QUOTE]


    Replace the screws with high collar hex, drill the sides to accept some thin diameter wire and then safety wire them together. They will never back out and are still easily removeable.

  2. #42
    RC Enthusiast
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    I have the very same issue. I hear alot of people have the same issue. My truck by the way is stock other than 5000DTX NiMh batteries and the differentials can't handle more than 3-4 runs which is really starting to upset me. I'm told ceramic bearing are the solution for this and that they are supposed to be much stronger so I ordered four of these at a cost of 40$ to replace the two bearings on each diff case on the pinion shafts. Also if shimming helps i'm going to try that in combination with the new heavy duty bearings. With all of this done (properly), if then they still don't hold up i'm gonna repair everything on the truck bring it back up to snuff and get rid of it!

    Traxxas has a strict language policy. A word filter operates to change inappropriate words to *s. When you see these in your post, you MUST edit them out.
    -ksb51rl
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 03-03-2012 at 05:26 PM.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by capita View Post
    hi jamann,
    thanks for your advise. I already did loosening the slipper clutch sufficient. I spend more than half an hour to figure out the best settings between safety and fun. Now my setup does not allow wheelies anymore. That tells me that there is no more overpowering of the drivetrain possible.
    I wonder how the drivetrain of a brushless e-revo braves the power od 2.2kv!?

    Thanks
    capita


    i'm also wondering the same thing.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notin_but_aRevo View Post
    i would leave the diffs always unlocked...Ya i know defeats the propose of having lockable diffs ..but try that for a few runs..and also try and shim the diff it helps a lot with the gear mesh ...another option is to get some quality bearings like some acer ceramics ..you don't need the whole set of them for the whole truck just the diff bearings B/c the stock bearing's even new will have a bit of slop in them and cause the gear mesh to have a bit of gear slop....but if these tricks don't work ..go with the some e-revo diffs they have less moving parts there for stronger and less things to break
    I think that's complete garbage. When I was in the store trying to figure out which one too buy between the Revo and the Summit, I saw that the Summit had remote locking diffs which is what sold me on it rather than the Revo. If we can't use them then what's the point?!?

    Traxxas has a strict language policy. A word filter operates to change inappropriate words to *s. When you see these in your post, you MUST edit them out.
    -ksb51rl
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 03-03-2012 at 05:22 PM.

  5. #45
    RC Enthusiast
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    Quote Originally Posted by hugh jorgan View Post
    Just my 2 cent here (1.96 for Canadians..) I have worked on a lot of hydraulic piston pumps which require shimming of the input shaft and if you get that wrong, damage occurs quickly. Since you have gone through three diffs, have you looked at something else pushing on one of the shafts?

    Binding in the drive shaft will push on the input shaft and drive the gears together. Binding in the axles will push on the outputs and drive the gears together. As everything heats up, lube is destroyed and wear accelerates, then you end up with a box of jewelry.


    What about misalignment of the diff carriers to the chassis? Chassis and bulkheads are cheap and if it was me I would replace everything (or make Traxxas do it) that might be a contributing factor to diff wear.

    In my experience it is always the last thing you expect or think about that causes the problem.

    Here is my 2 cents (1,93$ for Americans) I the think the first flaw is the bulkhead which encases the diff case itself allows for distortion which can be eliminated by getting machined aluminum units. The problem with that is I don't think they make it for the summit and its "T-Lock" diffs, don't fool yourself the Revo ones dont fit. Another flaw is the plastic case of the differential itself also allows for some distortion. Lastly the bearings on the pinion gear wrote cheques that their asses can't cash. In short the "T-Lock" differentials are having alot more issues handling torque input a little more than Traxxas was expecting.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfr4x4 View Post
    Try this:

    After you've blown all the oil out of the hole with some solvent, put a couple drops of CA glue down into the hole, then put the screw in and tighten it.

    What is this CA glue you speak of???

  7. #47
    RC Qualifier
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    I have been running summits for years now, no blown diffs at all.

    I come from the 1:1 world of locking diffs. My jeep has ARB air lockers front and rear. If your engage them under load they
    Will break, if you engage them on pavement they will break, if you engage them under high load wheel off the ground and
    Engage them when the wheel is hitting the ground they will break.

    I have a feeling a lot of this is some user error....just saying. I have had 5 different summits-no broken diffs.
    Three Summits

  8. #48
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by fourtwentyeight View Post
    Here is my 2 cents (1,93$ for Americans) I the think the first flaw is the bulkhead which encases the diff case itself allows for distortion which can be eliminated by getting machined aluminum units. The problem with that is I don't think they make it for the summit and its "T-Lock" diffs, don't fool yourself the Revo ones dont fit. Another flaw is the plastic case of the differential itself also allows for some distortion. Lastly the bearings on the pinion gear wrote cheques that their asses can't cash. In short the "T-Lock" differentials are having alot more issues handling torque input a little more than Traxxas was expecting.
    What if the mesh in the diff are to tight from the factory? that would put loads of stress on the bearings on the pinion.
    What I've seen of your summit it's the piniongear and ringgear that breaks?
    What I get from reading on the forums is that it's usually the spidergears that break if you run with locked diffs and not the bearing in the pinion.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by CAPITA View Post
    Hi All!
    Iím facing a serious problem about my SUMMITís rear differential. It was broken the third time now. I really donít drive very aggressive or do something like bashing with it. I just installed a mid range BL system made by KD (850W). I investigated that the problem is always about the ring gear and the pinion gear inside the differential. While driving first a clicking noise appears. If I continue driving the tops of the tooth of the gears will be sheared-off.
    The first time I faced this problem it was caused by a broken bearing inside the differential housing that pivots the pinion gear. Thereby it could slip back some small tenth of a millimeter so that the gears did not mesh properly anymore. Substituting the bearings with a full metal one solved that problem for now. Anyway I had to substitute the complete differential housing because the broken bearing and the tooth parts were scattered all around the housings.

    But after repairing the differential was broken again a similar way. This time the substituted bearing is well but the ring gear was loosen from the inner differential housing (5681) because the threads were destroyed. Again the meshing between ring gear and pinion gear was out of order and the tops of the tooth of the gears were sheared-off. So I replaced all the parts again, as it were a complete new differential (including the full metal bearing).
    Not fine again! This time I stopped driving the second I realized the first small clicking noise. The noise tells me that the meshing is bad again. What could the reason be? Is the differential housing (5680) deforming itself by a power of 850W? Or is the differential carrier (5681) to weak?

    Now I think about installing the rear differential from a brushless E-REVO to my SUMMIT. It should stand the power of 2200W. Sure with this I canít lock the rear differential anymore but an unlockable diff is worth more than an broken one. Does anybody know about a suitable differential made of metal?

    Thanks for your answers!

    You're going to want to keep an eye on this SUMMIT thread for a new upgrade for the Summit I'm currently in the R&D stages with and hoping to get it complete and tested a.s.a.p.
    Refuse to back down!

  11. #51
    RC poster
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    Quote Originally Posted by fourtwentyeight View Post
    You're going to want to keep an eye on this SUMMIT thread for a new upgrade for the Summit I'm currently in the R&D stages with and hoping to get it complete and tested a.s.a.p.
    did you ever come up with anything new for these diffs? id be interested in something good!

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