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  1. #1
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    What would you do better if you'd started all over again?

    Im getting my e-revo next week, and obviously i have read everything I could about it . Since my previous car (which i bougth a month ago and sold it 1 week later, a Nitro 1/10 buggie worth 200$) broke down 3 times in 1 week, I would like to know from you what you would have done diferently, or in other words, what are you doing now, to avoid breaking or to strenghten any parts on your e-revo.

    Pictures would be nice if someone has some.

    My contribute to this is small, but maybe someone will be able to lern what what i know so far.

    1 - Put duck-tape on the inside of the tires so they become more resistant.
    2 - Check if the ESC/motors are not to hot when changing batteries.
    3 - Buying a roll-cage (not sure on if this one is worth it)

    This is all i know for now... (little I know lol)

    And two small questions for the end that i did not find anywhere..

    How do you clean your revos (somebody told me at the car washing!?!?!)
    And how do you clean specifically the motors (this is important to me because as i saw, the motors are not sealed, so what do you do when dirt comes in? Do you open them from time to time and clean them with a brush or something, or do you clean them with water or something similar?

    Thanks in avdance for your help!!!

  2. #2
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    At the time ERBE was not out yet. So I got the E Revo. If I had to live it over I would have saved up and purchased

    a brushless system (Mamba Monster Combo to be exact)

    lipo charger (Venom Pro)

    lipo batteries (a pair of 2s 5000mah and up)

    RPM Arms

    I spent so much on the 7 cells and such silly run times but I was not on this forum yet so I did not know better. Smashed several stock arms - yes I was a bad driver lol.

    But I got a ERBE and got the RPM Arms and they are nice. I have smashed bulk heads but the arms stay put. They flex a lot; sometimes too much cause if you are using the CV Drive Shafts from Traxxas with the steel cups, the shafts pops out on bad landings from massive air or crashes instead of snapping so I guess its good and bad. Easy solution keep using the stock shafts. Just keep a few in stock.

    But all in all...tuff monster. If you are a seasoned driver, and you adjust you slipper well and stuff and stick all you landings - even if you wipe out a few times you will take a while before you need to replace stock items. But once your pockets allow you, swap out stock parts from go.

    The brushless has beefier stock parts however, toe links, turn buckles, arms etc - just a side note.
    Ray00
    E–Revo │ E-Revo BE
    ITCHY THROTTLE FINGER!

  3. #3
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    Here's some good info on motor cleaning.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZ2Pi...e=channel_page

  4. #4
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    actuallyfrom whati have seen the brushed and the brushless are the exact copy with the exception of esc, motor, motor mount plate, 2.4 ghz system ,17mm hubs(i think) and brushless stickers.

    as far as uprades
    1 rpm arms
    2 dont buy steel cvd - you dont need them - yet
    3 wheelie bar to save your wing
    4 but dont buy anything untill you break the stock stuff stuff -cuz the stock stuff is really pretty tough

  5. #5
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    Thanks for all your Help (althought I must say that it took me 2 min to realize what ERBE means. So for the new guys like me, ERBE = E-Revo Brushless Edition)

    None of you spoek about the duck-tape thing so i suppose its not that important.. is it?

    The main thing i dont get is why people always speak of lipos as them being the best to use, when a nimh 7cell (8,4) has more voltage than a 2cell lipo (7,4). Does the lipo release more power and despite that it has voler voltage, bring better practical results? I'm really curious about this one.

    What are RMP arms? and cvd?

    @ redletter Thanks for the video, how often do you guys do this? (not what is recomended, but what you really do )

    Ill try to keep my first post update for other people who are also on their way of getting one.

  6. #6
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    Rpm is a aftermarket parts maker that specializes in tough plastic replacement parts. cvd=constant velocity drive. Dogbones if you will or metal driveshafts going from the diffs to the wheels.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Portuman
    Thanks for all your Help (althought I must say that it took me 2 min to realize what ERBE means. So for the new guys like me, ERBE = E-Revo Brushless Edition)

    None of you spoek about the duck-tape thing so i suppose its not that important.. is it?

    The main thing i dont get is why people always speak of lipos as them being the best to use, when a nimh 7cell (8,4) has more voltage than a 2cell lipo (7,4). Does the lipo release more power and despite that it has voler voltage, bring better practical results? I'm really curious about this one.

    What are RMP arms? and cvd?

    @ redletter Thanks for the video, how often do you guys do this? (not what is recomended, but what you really do )

    Ill try to keep my first post update for other people who are also on their way of getting one.

    lipo's are way better than nimh's in every way . lipo's might have a lower voltage at the start off the run but they hold there voltage under load way better than the best nimh's money can buy. nimh's will drop voltage in the first couple minutes of a a run. lipos are also lighter and have better punch,and some lipo's can be charged in like 15 mins

    Rpm- is a company that makes A-arms, axle carriers and bumpers that have a life time warranty against breakage.

    cvd- are steel drive shafts

    here's a list of the upgrade i did to make this truck stronger

    -Rpm a-arms /front
    -Rpm true-track/rear
    -rpm axle carriers
    -traxxas aluminum turnbuckles
    -traxxas aluminum pushrods
    -use velcro on battery doors and body (to help support body in the middle)
    -aluminum hex's
    -Rpm titan rims w/ imex baja tire's (nice light setup)

    other than these parts the other stock parts are strong and take the abuse of 30ft jumps all day long

    with this setup i have been problem free for a while (not including electrical problems)

  8. #8
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    Ok, i have noticed now i cannot edit my posts, so i will sum up all i got till now that may help other, and also if there is something wrong maybe someone can correct me.


    Electrical:

    - For the start use the stock motor and ESC (when you begin to go into brushless, then its when parts will begin to break.

    - You can use 6 cell (7.2v) nimh or 7 cell nimh (8.4v) they will both fit in the e-revo. The more mah the batteries have, the more runtime you will have and the more voltage, the faster will it go.
    Lipos can also be used with the stardard ESC, it can handle 16,8v so you have to use S2 lipos (2cells x3,7v = 7,4v x2batteries=14,8v) cause S3 wont work (3cells x3,7v =11,1v x2batteries=22,1volts) this will burn up you ESC.

    Lipo vs nimh: "lipo's might have a lower voltage at the start off the run but they hold there voltage under load way better than the best nimh's money can buy. nimh's will drop voltage in the first couple minutes of a a run. lipos are also lighter and have better punch,and some lipo's can be charged in like 15 mins"

    - Regaring the charger, there are a couple of cheap ones, that will charge the nihm batteries as well as the lipos (and ballances them also) if you ever think of getting them. The Imax B6 or the Accucel 6 costo form 35 to 50USD normally and honestly I did not understand yet what the more expensive chargers do more than this ones, maybe someone could explain.
    Another think to the charging. from what i know you can charge your 2 batteries at a time. You just need to connect the 2 bateries in series (like the red from the one battery to the black of the other, and connect the 2 remaining cables to the charger) Even if you have 2x 7cells=14 (16,4v) Most chargers handle up to 15v. I never heard anyone speaking about this, is there any downside to series charging?

    Thanks again
    (will post to the mechanical part when i get mine

  9. #9
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    The stock speed control(EVX-2) does not have an LVC (Low-voltage cutoff) to protect lipos from over-discharging. So, if you want to use Lipos with a regular e-revo (not brushless), you will need some kind of external LVC.
    Two Rusty VXLs, M2Ks 18/83 - Tag! You're it!

  10. #10
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    I would not charge batts in series if your not experienced in it. Not to mention you could never balance charge two LiPo's at the same time this way. Balance charging LiPo's is the most highly recommended way to charge. As for NiMh batts, the Duratrax 240 does two batts at once and uses a seperate LCD screen and set up for each battery incase you charge 2 different types at the same time. It also has hump pack connectors built in for easy rX batt charging.

    For balance charging LiPo's, I use the Bantom BC6. It is loaded with safety features and fully adjustable.
    Phs 2 S-Maxx build- 24/54 gears. Can U say faster?

  11. #11
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    I looked into LVC's at *********. Do they carry them? All I could find were low voltage alarms which might be OK if I hear it. Any thoughts?
    Phs 2 S-Maxx build- 24/54 gears. Can U say faster?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by T-MAXXTER
    I would not charge batts in series if your not experienced in it. Not to mention you could never balance charge two LiPo's at the same time this way. Balance charging LiPo's is the most highly recommended way to charge. As for NiMh batts, the Duratrax 240 does two batts at once and uses a seperate LCD screen and set up for each battery incase you charge 2 different types at the same time. It also has hump pack connectors built in for easy rX batt charging.

    For balance charging LiPo's, I use the Bantom BC6. It is loaded with safety features and fully adjustable.

    yes you can easily charge two lipo's in series with a 4s-2s balance adapter. series charging is fine but you don't want to charge in parallel. series charging is ok for lipo's because the charger will be able to read each cell and charge based on what each cell needs. were parallel the charger will only see half the cells and not knowing it could over charge them

    hope this helps

  13. #13
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    When charging lipos, parallel is the preferred method. Only charge in series if your charger doesn't have the amps to charge in parallel.

  14. #14
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    See, this is why I wouldn't do it, too much conflicting info. I did not know there was a balance tap adapter. Are they specific to the charger type or brand?
    Phs 2 S-Maxx build- 24/54 gears. Can U say faster?

  15. #15
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    the balance adapter's can be found in almost any configuration or can be made to any configuration here is one for an example[IMG][/IMG]

  16. #16
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    I was speaking about the nimh for now, there are guides about lipos and somehow it makes sense that the balancer protects de batteries either in parallel or in series, because the batteries are getting their "normal charging current" from the main wires and the balancer wires give extra juice for the cells that stay behind, so they end up all with the same charge and that is the only point of the balancer. Someone correct me if im wrong.
    The thing is, that with so many people having a normal e-revo with nimh batteries and a "normal charger", and there is nowhere a discussion or a guide speaking about charging the 2 nimh at the same time, which to me makes all sense...

  17. #17
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    really i have seen a lot of threads about nimh being charged in series

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notin_but_aRevo
    the balance adapter's can be found in almost any configuration or can be made to any configuration here is one for an example[IMG][/IMG]
    Where can I buy a parallel adapter like this one?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notin_but_aRevo
    really i have seen a lot of threads about nimh being charged in series

    Can you give me the link to one, im really curious about what people have to say about it.

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