Results 1 to 27 of 27

Thread: My Basher

  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    27

    My Basher

    This is the first time to post on here. Thought i'd share the specs on the basher I take out with the kids every weekend. Its an ongoing project - half fixing & half upgrading. Anyway, here's what we've done and whats next.

    Whats Done
    • Motor (DeWalt 396505-20 w/ 3 100nF Caps, custom spacer)
    • Single Motor Mount (TRX 5690X)
    • Single Gear Cover (TRX 5677X)
    • Push Rods (Front & Rear) (TRX 5318X w/ Progressive 2 rocker arms)
    • TUBES (Front only) (TRX 5338R)
    • Axle Carriers (TRX 5334R Revo Platinum w/ Steel Inserts F&R)
    • Sway Bar Kit (Tekno TKR1013 Silver Springs F&R)
    • Turnbuckles (in lieu of Tekno turnbuckles) (Traxxas TRA3139X)
    • Variable Rate Shock Piston kit (Front) (TRX 5461 Silver Springs, 35wt oil, 2 hole plunger, Bad Horsie Boots)
    • Variable Rate Shock Piston kit (Rear) (TRX 5461 Blue Springs, 45wt oil, 3 hole plunger, Bad Horsie Boots)
    • Emaxx Tires/Rims (TRX Stock Taped & Balanced)
    • Revo Talon Tires/Rims (TRX Stock Taped & Balanced)
    • Spur (TRX Stock 68t)
    • Pinion (Robinson 8720 19t)
    • 5000mAh NiMH Batteries (Duratrax DTXC2182 2 pair)

    Whats Next
    • RPM Rear A-Arm Kit
    • Promatch 5000mAh NiMH Batts
    • Ti Pivot Balls
    • Carbon Fiber A-Arm Pins
    • Aluminum Hollow Balls
    • Velocity Wheels
    • Badlands Tires
    • Maybe LiPo batts in time

    Plus, we hid the wiring, removed the rear bumper & mount and rear vent louvers, and put 3 spacers in front & 1 in back for front upper A-Arm steering. We're awaiting one more set of 3139X turnbuckles for the sway bars (only ordered one set on accident). Plus 2 blue spacers to replace ones lost in a wreck.

    Any thoughts on improving the setup would be appreciated. Thanks.

    Sorry i couldn't figure out how to post pics.[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE]




    http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/DSC00017.jpg
    http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/DSC00018.jpg
    http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/DSC00019.jpg
    http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/DSC00020.jpg
    http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/DSC00021.jpg
    http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/DSC00022.jpg
    Thanks Super Dude.
    Edit: Images changed to links....please keep images to a 640x480
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 12-16-2009 at 09:05 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    1,548
    do you have photobucket? if so, under each pic is a bunch of codes. copy and paste the one titled IMG.

  3. #3
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    regina sask, canada
    Posts
    2,344
    nice erevo i like how you have the motor black too
    if your not breaking anything get more air

  4. #4
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    1,548
    no, thank you. i love pics lol

    ps-how are those maxx tires doin for ya?
    Last edited by Super Dude; 09-27-2009 at 12:41 AM.

  5. #5
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    27
    Super Dude - They seem a bit heavy, but i like the Maxx tires more than the talons. For backyards & construction sites they bite better. Also the giant chevrons really change the look. Plus i got the set of 4 as pull offs, for $25. Oh, and thx for the photobucket idea.

    Scotthw - I was cleaning up the look under the body. We used flat black testors enamel on the dewalt, motor mount, and the spacer. I couldn't find any primer so it may flake off in time. After the first few runs you could smell the paint, so may its baked on somewhat. Hmmm. Anyway, if the dewalt ever gives out - its a beast - we'll probably try out some BBQ grill hi-temp flat black instead.

    So, any inputs on the gearing or suspension setup? Prefer to stay with Nimh for the time being - but would like to make it a bit faster. And with the sways installed, the suspension is a bit stiffer than i thought. Was hoping it wouldn't limit the articulation as much. Guess you can have one or the other.

    And, here's higher res pics. I included a couple of angles with the pvc stand i saw here in the forums.


    Last edited by ksb51rl; 12-16-2009 at 09:02 PM.

  6. #6
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,055
    what kind of speeds are u getting?
    Wide Rustler | "Bulldog" Backslash 4x4

  7. #7
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    27
    vxlkid - i'm not exactly sure...i switched gearing from 19/68 to 19/62. With 85deg ambient temps, after the run the stock esc was barely warm, the batteries (16.8Vdc) were warm, and the motor you could touch for about 4-5sec. I would guess 30-35mph???? I may need to gear down some more, i have a 20t pinion i haven't used yet.

  8. #8
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    158
    I had pretty much the same setting when I was running a dewalt, and buying lipo made a great improvement,

    with nimh a could pop wheelies on a dead stop
    with lipo I could run slowly and pop a wheely, alot more torquy with lipos.

    and buying from hobby king a lipo + charger combo cost me the same thing as a set of promatch nimh batteries

  9. #9
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    27
    Mattcar - i dont have enough traction for dead stop wheelies, all 4 tires spin like crazy. I've got to hit reverse first, then it'll wheelie nonstop till i let off the throttle. Out on the pavement its like driving on ice with the emaxx tires. Dirt, playgrounds, etc aren't much better (maybe some new badlands will help out). Anyway, what are the batteries, charger, & lvc you run?

    Also, i have a general question concerning the 'rules of thumb' for motor, esc, and batts: I switched gearing to 20/62. Seems to have just as much lowend torque, but its a fair amount faster. Understandably, the batts dont last as long now. Question is, hot motor+warm ESC+barely warm batts= ????? This is not covered in any of the 'rules' i've seen. Any thoughts?

  10. #10
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    158
    The Dewalt always seemed to get real hot whatever I tried to do. If your Esc and Batts are only warm you are fine in my own.

    I use a turnigi 5000mah 20c and a ******* accucel 8 but the accucel 6 is fine also and no lvc, I use my multimeter every 10mins or so to check my voltage and stop when the car seems slower

  11. #11
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    13
    is the dewalt your using waterproof?

  12. #12
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    15
    How are you liking the swaybar kit? I got the Traxxas ones and Im soso on them so far.

  13. #13
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by Katscan
    How are you liking the swaybar kit? I got the Traxxas ones and Im soso on them so far.
    I'm using the tekno sway bars and they work great. I did use the traxxas turnbuckles instead of the plain ones included in the kit. The swaybars have limited the suspension alot over rough terrain. I could probably use lighter springs & oil.


    Quote Originally Posted by crishdavis
    is the dewalt your using waterproof?
    I've drenched the truck in some pretty deep ruts and it still works fine so far. It was muddy road ditch water I accidentally dove into because the truck was so far away i couldn't see it. It came out alright. The water was about 6-8" deep. It blasted though it for about 20 feet. I wouldn't do it everyday, but it was cooling looking to watch anyway.

  14. #14
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    15
    Ahhh, so is that why they provide lighter sway bars? For rougher terrain?

  15. #15
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Schodack, NY (the tax state!)
    Posts
    2,183
    Sway bars are really meant for the racer... not to say they aren't for bashing but if you plan to run fast and do a lot of precise cornering, limiting excessive roll, then a sway bar kit is the way to go. But, like Hack Job was implying, there is a bit of tuning needed to be done to your suspension to suit the terrain you run on. I bought a sway bar kit and have yet to install it. I've learned to drive my truck the way it handles now and it suits me well. But my terrain changes a lot so maximum suspension flexibility is a must for me.
    Phs 2 S-Maxx build- 24/54 gears. Can U say faster?

  16. #16
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Kokomo, IN
    Posts
    1,036
    Boy... I REALLY need to get some shock spring socks... that really looks nice. My ERBE looks pretty similar!
    ERBE, E-Slayvo Pro, Ext Stampy, 2xMERV's.

  17. #17
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by jpoprock
    Boy... I REALLY need to get some shock spring socks... that really looks nice. My ERBE looks pretty similar!
    I got those shock boots from bad horsie. Kinda a pain to install, but they look good and actually work well to help keep the shock oil free from contaminants.

    Bad news with the truck though, hit a curb head on at full speed last night. Last time i drive it 'blind' behind cars on the street. Anyway, shattered both sides of the front bulkhead, broke all 4 front a-arms, broke one of the long a-arm hinge pins, and shattered all pieces of the steering system except the servo turnbuckles and the red tubes. Oh, also broke the front two skids, and shattered the large skid covering the driveshafts.

    It did still drive though. Just looked sad dragging both front wheels.

  18. #18
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Schodack, NY (the tax state!)
    Posts
    2,183
    Sounds like big bucks to get that truck up and running again. Sorry to hear it. Is it too late to amend your letter to "Santa"?
    Phs 2 S-Maxx build- 24/54 gears. Can U say faster?

  19. #19
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by T-MAXXTER
    Sounds like big bucks to get that truck up and running again. Sorry to hear it. Is it too late to amend your letter to "Santa"?
    Good idea! Was making a shopping list with the parts book...be about $60 in parts so far. I am running RPM arms in the back but i've been keeping the stock ones up front as a 'weak link'. If i was to go ahead with RPM arms in the front, what will i end up breaking instead? Anyone found aluminum bulkheads?

  20. #20
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Schodack, NY (the tax state!)
    Posts
    2,183
    Don't worry about that. The RPM's still have enough flex to them to absorb the shock. The difference is, they don't break as easy and if they do, they will be replaced for free. I don't know if there are aluminum bulks but it your call if you decide to go that route. You took a serious hit which might have bent a nice set of bulks which would leave them junk anyhow. My recommendation is RPM arms, maybe the bumper too, and Lunsford titanium suspension pins. They flex before they break and are the strongest available.

    You should check the Ebay stores. Those parts you need are being sold from stripped down new Revos. You can use the nitro or electric parts with no problem and save a bundle.
    Phs 2 S-Maxx build- 24/54 gears. Can U say faster?

  21. #21
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Kokomo, IN
    Posts
    1,036
    OMG dude. That is pure carnage!! Rotten!! My advice to you... wait till after the holidays, then hit Ebay like T-Maxxter said. Plenty of no reserve parts out there you can get for WAY cheaper than the LHS. There are a lot of sellers out there that buy these trucks new,and part them out totally. A snipe program is your friend if you don't have one! I've sniped so many parts that it's not even funny. I have a stockpile of backup everything for my Revos and Losi's.

    PM me yer email addy and I'll send you a link to the sniper program I use. I just load up my acct with $5 or so via pay pal, and it's good for quite a while. There is a small fee for each successful snipe. I'm not sure about snipes that you didn't win. I've spent a long time doing it, and can almost tell you what most parts sell for on average.

    +1 on Lundsford pins.

    No one makes alum bulks for the Erevo. I'm not sure I'd put anything aluminum on an Revo. I'd stick with Lundsford and RPM if it were me. I'm running stock arms on my ERBE, and have many backups on hand for certain future use! Even with Alum, yer truck would have been mangled, maybe even worse.
    Last edited by jpoprock; 12-22-2009 at 11:43 AM.
    ERBE, E-Slayvo Pro, Ext Stampy, 2xMERV's.

  22. #22
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    27
    Just for fun, here's some pics of the carnage. Theres still a few other little pieces out in the street. Parts on order include front RPM arms and lunsford pins.




  23. #23
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Schuyler, NEBRASKA
    Posts
    556
    Quote Originally Posted by Hack Job
    I got those shock boots from bad horsie. Kinda a pain to install, but they look good and actually work well to help keep the shock oil free from contaminants.

    Bad news with the truck though, hit a curb head on at full speed last night. Last time i drive it 'blind' behind cars on the street. Anyway, shattered both sides of the front bulkhead, broke all 4 front a-arms, broke one of the long a-arm hinge pins, and shattered all pieces of the steering system except the servo turnbuckles and the red tubes. Oh, also broke the front two skids, and shattered the large skid covering the driveshafts.

    It did still drive though. Just looked sad dragging both front wheels.
    I can agree with the socks from bad horsie. They are SWEEET when done and installed but wow i cursed and swore them things on the first 2 shocks but when i finally got them on and the shocks back together there are amazing. I recommend socks for shocks to everyone, just a pain to install.
    E-revo for sale. PM me for more info.

  24. #24
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    onoway alberta canada
    Posts
    188
    now that is the is why it is called a servo saver if it didn't have that you would have probaly broken both servos!

  25. #25
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    3
    I know this is an old thread but i just got my dewalt motor from robotmarketplace and was wondering if you could tell me exactly where to solder my power leads and if i need to put capicitors on

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    5,791
    There are numerous recent and ongoing threads about dewalt motor upgrades, try finding one of those to post in in future if you really need to. Anyway:



    Click for full size- should become very apparent how & where to solder the wires.

    If you have a 2.4ghz radio, then you don't really need the little ceramic caps to be soldered onto the motor, but for reference:



    Enjoy
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  27. #27
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Pennsylvania.
    Posts
    861
    I have the DeWalt 12v conversion and I never put the ceramic capacitors on the motor. I just got a 2.4 radio and it has no interference. When I had the stock radio it did have a lot of interference.
    Last edited by oldbikedude; 12-11-2011 at 10:49 PM.
    JATO 3.3
    Stampede Build
    DeWalt 12v E-REVO on 4s

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •