Rod Ends

[dr_gonzo]

i was wondering about stronger rod ends, and i found the dubro rod ends, but i dont know which use:

- 1
- 2
- 3
- 4
- 5
- 6
- 7
- 8
- 9
- 10

it's the 3mm (number 9) the right one?
some one know other good rod ends? a also found these

any suggestion?

[carraig042]

I think the ninth link is correct, but that is expensive. You can get good aluminum ones for that price.

-Brett

[chet jamio]

Yes, the #9 is correct. They will need to be modified before installation though.

Dubro monster - 3mm hole, 3mm threads

There are 20 rod ends on the revo:
4 for the shocks - 3mm hole, 3mm threads (short body)
8 for pushrods - 3mm hole, 4mm threads
4 for toe links- 3mm hole, 4mm threads
4 for toe links- 3mm hole, 4mm threads LH

I have tried a few different alumninum rod ends and they all are worse than the Traxxas 5348 rod ends. FYI, the 5348 last much longer than the 5347 that come everywhere but the rear toe links.

The RC4WD rod ends are the same design as all the crappy ones I've tested. The cheap ones use steel balls on aluminum races. They get sloppy and the races fall out. They aren't worth the price. The steely ones might work, but they're only available in male RH threads. It would take a lot to get them installed.

I finally found some halfway decent looking aluminum rod ends from RC Channel. They use brass races which is a much better material for this application. There are two races per rod end, and they pop out too easy (same problem as the cheaper rod ends). I removed all the races and reinstalled them with green loctite. Then I drilled and tapped them for the various locations. Last weekend, I replaced all 5 rod ends on the front right with the RC Channel ones and all the rod ends on the front left with 5348's. After a few weeks of testing, I'll know how they last.

If you plan to use aluminum rod ends on either the front or rear toe links, you will need something to stop them from rotating freely. Because it's metal on metal and there is no torque applied, nothing prevents the toe links from rotating and adjusting your toe by several degrees. I use Vibra Tite for this. You can get it individual sizes or in a bottle.

[dr_gonzo]

Yes, the #9 is correct. They will need to be modified before installation though.

Dubro monster - 3mm hole, 3mm threads

There are 20 rod ends on the revo:
4 for the shocks - 3mm hole, 3mm threads (short body)
8 for pushrods - 3mm hole, 4mm threads
4 for toe links- 3mm hole, 4mm threads
4 for toe links- 3mm hole, 4mm threads LH

I have tried a few different alumninum rod ends and they all are worse than the Traxxas 5348 rod ends. FYI, the 5348 last much longer than the 5347 that come everywhere but the rear toe links.

The RC4WD rod ends are the same design as all the crappy ones I've tested. The cheap ones use steel balls on aluminum races. They get sloppy and the races fall out. They aren't worth the price. The steely ones might work, but they're only available in male RH threads. It would take a lot to get them installed.

I finally found some halfway decent looking aluminum rod ends from RC Channel. They use brass races which is a much better material for this application. There are two races per rod end, and they pop out too easy (same problem as the cheaper rod ends). I removed all the races and reinstalled them with green loctite. Then I drilled and tapped them for the various locations. Last weekend, I replaced all 5 rod ends on the front right with the RC Channel ones and all the rod ends on the front left with 5348's. After a few weeks of testing, I'll know how they last.

If you plan to use aluminum rod ends on either the front or rear toe links, you will need something to stop them from rotating freely. Because it's metal on metal and there is no torque applied, nothing prevents the toe links from rotating and adjusting your toe by several degrees. I use Vibra Tite for this. You can get it individual sizes or in a bottle.

really thanks chet
this was what i was looking for:

Dubro monster - 3mm hole, 3mm threads

4 for the shocks - 3mm hole, 3mm threads (short body)
8 for pushrods - 3mm hole, 4mm threads
4 for toe links- 3mm hole, 4mm threads
4 for toe links- 3mm hole, 4mm threads LH

so i'm still undecided between this 2

4-40
3mm

beacause i don't understand what mean 4-40.
do you think i can easily modify the 3mm threads to 4mm?
i mean, just screw them on the pushrods/turnbuckles to enlarge the threads?
same question for modify from 3mm threads RH to 4mm threads LH.. just screw them on the turnbuckles?

about alu rod ends, what chet said definitely conviced me to use the plastic ones.

[chet jamio]

so i'm still undecided between this 2

4-40
3mm

beacause i don't understand what mean 4-40.

4-40 is a SAE thread type, not metric. You don't want those.

FYI, it's a thread with .112" outer diameter and 40 threads per inch. There's a goofy formula for the diameter. Multiply the first number by .013 and add .060.
4 x .013 + .060 = .112" (2.8 mm)
40 threads per inch = 0.635mm spacing between threads

If you were to write 4-40 in metric, it would be M2.8 x 0.635.

do you think i can easily modify the 3mm threads to 4mm?
i mean, just screw them on the pushrods/turnbuckles to enlarge the threads?
same question for modify from 3mm threads RH to 4mm threads LH.. just screw them on the turnbuckles?

4mm threads are M4 x 0.7 which means they have a 4mm outer diameter and a 3.3mm inner diameter. You have two choices on how to make these:

1 - Plastic threads are typically just made as you install them. Just drill out the 3mm threads to some value between 3.3 and 4.0 mm. I usually aim for just below the average (3.65mm). Every plastic is different. I would start with 3.5mm (#28 or #29) drill bit. The benefit of this method is you don't have to do anything different for the RH or LH threads.

2 - Drill and tap them like you would with metal threads. You need a 3.3mm drill bit, M4 x 0.7 RH tap, and a M4 x 0.7 LH tap. With this method, you don't get the high friction fit you need for the toe links to prevent unwanted adjustments. In low strength plastics like we're using here, I've found this method to produce lower strength threads.

[Revo¹]

The RC4WD aluminum rod-ends are excellent...I run them on all of my crawler builds, and have used them on my Supermaxxes, and never had a single problem out of them. They are much higher quality than any other aluminum rod-end made.

[Pulse]

I bought golden horizons aluminum rod ends. We'll see..

[carraig042]

What about the RD Racing rod ends? They are made of T6-7075 aluminum and I hear their other products are great.

-Brett

[chet jamio]

I bought golden horizons aluminum rod ends. We'll see..

I have tested those too. Complete junk. Lasted about 2 battery packs.

[J.A.T.O.3.3]

The best shock rod ends I have found are the Racers Edge ends , the have a phenolic hollow ball that has stood up too a lot of bashing/racing .

[Revo¹]

What about the RD Racing rod ends? They are made of T6-7075 aluminum and I hear their other products are great.

-Brett

I am sure they are great, since everything they make is great.

[Pulse]

I have tested those too. Complete junk. Lasted about 2 battery packs.

Already lasted 3 battery packs! Does that mean they're great?

Just kiddin' I prefer trying myself. We don't drive everybody the same way. If they brake I go back to the stockers and that's it.