Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 81 to 120 of 165
  1. #81
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    301
    One of the guys i race with came up with this alternative solution to the traxxas "wobbly wheel".



    He used a lathe to shorten the hub and then wound on a M5 lock nut. You could probably use a grinder if you've got a steady hand.

  2. #82
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,876
    Quote Originally Posted by Klimpen717
    I agree, they could EASILY swap out the stub axles for solid ones. I mean, c'mon, they haven't used 14mm hexes for a looooong time now and thats the only reason to still have threaded axles.
    jonboy and i proposed this to traxxas 2 years ago at motorama... i even called them and told them about it... they did nothing...


    Quote Originally Posted by jwaj2002
    why do you even need to do this mod, no offense to traxxas but it sounds like its just not quality aluminum...
    you have threaded steel and aluminum... the threads will act like a knife and always cut into the aluminum because it is a softer material..

  3. #83
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. KyLeader7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    5,054
    Kind of like how rubber wears through aluminum.

    For everyone that's done this mod: What size drill bit are you guys using to bore out the adapters??
    Learn by doing

  4. #84
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    157
    kyle i believe it is 15/64 for the bit
    Support your veterans
    REVO 5308 and Slayer

  5. #85
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. KyLeader7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    5,054
    Gunna have to hardware store the bit I think, I probably have it but their all loose.

    15/64 correct?
    Learn by doing

  6. #86
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    157
    yeah 15/64 one of the posts on the 1st page

    Quote Originally Posted by cyber_06_wolf
    i actually found out a 6mm drillbit is .236 inches, where a 15/64 drill bit is .234 inches. I believe ill try that.... ive never seen a metric drillbit.....but im not in that business or in one that regularly uses drills...so idk. you think homedepot or lowes would sell them individually?
    Support your veterans
    REVO 5308 and Slayer

  7. #87
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. KyLeader7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    5,054
    Touche!
    Learn by doing

  8. #88
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. KyLeader7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    5,054
    Speedbump- One of my set screws was stripped out . Got the next larger size and a tap.
    Learn by doing

  9. #89
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Campbellsport, Wisconsin
    Posts
    368
    Quote Originally Posted by ukrsonic
    What about M2C Racing machined aluminum 17mm hex hub adapters?

    IF your using the stock axles, will these work? Also, I noticed that if I put a shim inside the pillow block before I put in the bearing, that I took out the play between my stock hub adapter and the outer bearing. I'm using the RPM front axle carriers.

    Code:
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLMV7
    I have a shim maker at work, so I made shims of various thickness the same size as the bearing. It's hard to explain unless I could make pics. I'm not gonna pull it apart right now.

    Just out of curiosity, are these the hub adapters in the above pic:

    Code:
    http://www.m2cracing.com/product.sc;jsessionid=6A3D9CEA954A90C3CBB08DE89E9519DF.qscstrfrnt04?productId=233&categoryId=2

  10. #90
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. KyLeader7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    5,054
    Got it all done! Couple of the inserts broke while sanding, so i'de buy more than you need. Also got some new set screws and a new tap. Lots of work but glad I did it.
    Learn by doing

  11. #91
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Hilton Head South Carolina
    Posts
    49
    Chemdawg, to quickly answer your question, you must purchase the 8mm stub axles from RD Racing to work with the M2C hexes and while your at it get the RD Racing axle carriers as well and you'll have the best chance of eliminating most of the wheel slop. But I digress! I too was once also caught up in the quest to eliminate the horrid wheel wobble! I purchased the above mentioned parts at a cost of around $180.00 and was very pleased with the results- quality of these products, so I'm buy no means down playing these items. I have since retired the Revo and moved on to truggy's and been racing for a few years now and at first brought the "tight-no play" attitude from the Revo with me to the truggy's but have found, heard, and witnessed that a little play in some areas is a good thing in off-road racing. If you've had a chance to put your hands on a 1/8 scale buggy or truggy you know what I mean. If you were on-road racing then yes keep everything as tight as possible without an suspension binding. My point here is that unless you have "stupid" amounts of play don't sweat it.
    Last edited by reeltech; 06-14-2010 at 09:15 PM.

  12. #92
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Campbellsport, Wisconsin
    Posts
    368
    Quote Originally Posted by reeltech
    Chemdawg, to quickly answer your question, you must purchase the 8mm stub axles from RD Racing to work with the M2C hexes and while your at it get the RD Racing axle carriers as well and you'll have the best chance of eliminating most of the wheel slop. But I digress! I too was once also caught up in the quest to eliminate the horrid wheel wobble! I purchased the above mentioned parts at a cost of around $180.00 and was very pleased with the results- quality of these products, so I'm buy no means down playing these items. I have since retired the Revo and moved on to truggy's and been racing for a few years now and at first brought the "tight-no play" attitude from the Revo with me to the truggy's but have found, heard, and witnessed that a little play in some areas is a good thing in off-road racing. If you've had a chance to put your hands on a 1/8 scale buggy or truggy you know what I mean. If you were on-road racing then yes keep everything as tight as possible without an suspension binding. My point here is that unless you have "stupid" amounts of play don't sweat it.


    Thanks for that info. I'm not really in the market to spend 180.00 for all the parts. I noticed that I have some play too. But for the purpose of being a backyard basher, I don't really see the need to do anything about it yet.

  13. #93
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    17

    Anyone have Xtra

    Hey guys,
    By chance would anyone have (2) sets they would like to get rid of shipped to BK NYC? (or I could pic up if local)

    If Possible already setup, let me know the asking price.

    Thanks!

    Xtra

  14. #94
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    My local hardware store had a 6mm bit. I just used 5mm steel nuts and milled them down using a flat file and a 5mm bolt chucked into my drill. Took a while, but worked fine. Took two nuts per axle.




    Still a bit of thread sticking out, but doesn't seem to hamper the purpose much.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  15. #95
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Vancouver B.C Canada
    Posts
    60
    Does anyone have any brass inserts they would like to sell? I need 8 of them

  16. #96
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tyrone, Central PA
    Posts
    512
    Anybody feel like sparing 4 of those insert thingys? I can't fathom spending $20 plus shipping just to use 4 of them.....
    HK Brushless Summit!!!

  17. #97
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Mandurah - Western australia
    Posts
    211
    Heres another option for you all....
    I used a Helicoil ( recoil, thread repair , what ever you would like to call them) and threaded the hub.



    The stock hubs are now threaded and screw on to the traxxas axles as well as using the screw pin....... 100% solid with no cance of any slop
    JATO 3.3 - On Steroids!!
    Revo... What Revo?

  18. #98
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Clinton,Mo.
    Posts
    150
    would any one sell some?Or how else could you mill them down if you dont have a drill press?

  19. #99
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    Quote Originally Posted by dabmaxx
    would any one sell some?Or how else could you mill them down if you dont have a drill press?
    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss
    My local hardware store had a 6mm bit. I just used 5mm steel nuts and milled them down using a flat file and a 5mm bolt chucked into my drill. Took a while, but worked fine. Took two nuts per axle.
    Would assume you could do the same with those inserts, except it would have been way easier to mill down brass than it was to mill down steel.

    I threaded 6-8 nuts on a 5mm bolt, put the threaded end of the bolt in my hand drill, put the hand drill in a vice, then used a typical flat file to slowly grind them down as the drill spun.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  20. #100
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Spanish, Ontario. Canada
    Posts
    147
    why not use a coupling nut to start with so it's one piece. (file fit)
    or as for the image where he cut the end off and used a nut
    drill out the inner just deep enough to allow a low clearance nut and still have the threads for wheel mounting (not just cut off)
    Revo 3.3 2006
    Juggernaut 2
    Dumas Quicky 40

  21. #101
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    My hardware store only had 5mm nuts, nothing else that was 5mm. I may end up getting those brass inserts later if these show signs of wear.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  22. #102
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    15,721
    Quote Originally Posted by dabmaxx
    would any one sell some?Or how else could you mill them down if you dont have a drill press?
    I did mine by loading a spare Revo axle (and brass insert) in a drill, putting the drill in a vise, locking the trigger down, and going to town with a medium file and two grades of sandpaper. It took me about 2 minutes (once I got used to the process) to do one using this crude method. (I didn't feel like waiting for the precision machinist in the family to get to it.)

    You really want to TRY to match the 6mm hole drilled in the hubs as closely as possible with the outside of these ground-down inserts. I think you'd want to do the hubs first and then file/sand the inserts to suit.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 07-08-2010 at 11:39 PM.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  23. #103
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Va.
    Posts
    99

    a lot of good stuff here but

    i bought these and called it a day.........

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSCH9&P=7

    cheaper on Fleabay....

  24. #104
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    That's what I run on my savage, but savage axles are bigger where the hex fits which would create a wobbly wheel after a short time. Are the e-savage axles smaller than the nitro savage? If so, that's a good compromise.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  25. #105
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    719
    If anyone wants to sell a few pre-made sets I'm game to buy..

  26. #106
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    622
    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss
    That's what I run on my savage, but savage axles are bigger where the hex fits which would create a wobbly wheel after a short time. Are the e-savage axles smaller than the nitro savage? If so, that's a good compromise.
    The specs on tower say 6mm ID. I think they should work fine.
    BASH. BREAK. FIX. REPEAT. ALWAYS REPEAT.

  27. #107
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    15,721
    Quote Originally Posted by padrino
    If anyone wants to sell a few pre-made sets I'm game to buy..
    Please remember that offers to sell or buy non-Traxxas parts (without a Traxxas vehicle) are not allowed on these forums.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  28. #108
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    224
    ok,...nice idea..looks a little more durable than my fix..I just put about 4 wraps of teflon tape around the threads of the axle. Zero wobble.
    Bash for the thrill of it.

  29. #109
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Va.
    Posts
    99
    been running these 17MM hexes for a while now and it's been rock solid.

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSCH9&P=7



    also want to add that i really disliked these GT2 tires on my savage but for some reason on the Revo it's a great combo for bashing
    Last edited by snknby123; 07-18-2010 at 10:42 AM.

  30. #110
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    America
    Posts
    83
    Quote Originally Posted by snknby123
    i bought these and called it a day.........

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSCH9&P=7

    cheaper on Fleabay....
    so do these work on the 17mm e-revo?

  31. #111
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    America
    Posts
    83
    what if you bought some kind of captured nut like the ofna cnc ones? then you could just shim the shaft and not have to have something threaded? I may try that unless somebody already has

  32. #112
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. KyLeader7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    5,054
    Quote Originally Posted by kamipalms
    Heres another option for you all....
    I used a Helicoil ( recoil, thread repair , what ever you would like to call them) and threaded the hub.



    The stock hubs are now threaded and screw on to the traxxas axles as well as using the screw pin....... 100% solid with no cance of any slop
    What size helicoils did you use?
    Learn by doing

  33. #113
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Va.
    Posts
    99

    Hubs

    Quote Originally Posted by revodude14
    so do these work on the 17mm e-revo?
    Using them on both my NITRO REVO's with 17MM hubs. Zero wobble/slop Don't know why they wouldn't work on hte E-REVO

  34. #114
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. KyLeader7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    5,054
    Yes they should work on the e-revo
    Learn by doing

  35. #115
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    104

    m2c racing

    Quote Originally Posted by Atomicpunk
    That's the best setup that money can buy, but you need RD Racing carriers and 8mm stub axles to work with those adapters. It will end up costing over $150 for the parts. I like your idea of using an insert, I will be doing the same to mine now.
    now they make a kit that uses stock axle carriers!

  36. #116
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    47
    wow , I'm all over this mod Too. NICE WORK! you need to design a proto-type and get your groove on. make the finished product that is ready to go. As you can see from the response on this thread you would have an instant following and alot of people would buy this just under the brilliant concept alone. I'll do the mod but I would rather buy two set's of the refined product from you ?? lol Good Job and Good luck !
    wake up and smell the Nitro !!!

  37. #117
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Romania
    Posts
    66
    I really hope that the Traxxas employees will read this thread.

  38. #118
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    atlanta, ga
    Posts
    14
    subscribed, for sure!
    JATO 3.3
    big Revo
    little revo

  39. #119
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Beautiful Downtown North Carolina
    Posts
    1,449
    Quote Originally Posted by cyber_06_wolf View Post
    where do you get a 6mm drillbit??
    yes you can get individual bits at a home depot, lowes, menards or whatever hardware store you have, i just switched to the 17mm adapters recently and thought, how did i get bearing issues immediately,thanks for the mod ideas guys!!!!
    Master of Traxxas engine longevity....

  40. #120
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Deerfield, NY
    Posts
    517
    Klimpen717- Are you still making these? I'd really like get 8 if possible. This is a great fix to this problem.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •