Revo stub axle mod to eliminate wobbling (pictures)

[Nogas]

One of the guys i race with came up with this alternative solution to the traxxas "wobbly wheel".



He used a lathe to shorten the hub and then wound on a M5 lock nut. You could probably use a grinder if you've got a steady hand.

[kgombe1]

I agree, they could EASILY swap out the stub axles for solid ones. I mean, c'mon, they haven't used 14mm hexes for a looooong time now and thats the only reason to still have threaded axles.

jonboy and i proposed this to traxxas 2 years ago at motorama... i even called them and told them about it... they did nothing...

why do you even need to do this mod, no offense to traxxas but it sounds like its just not quality aluminum...

you have threaded steel and aluminum... the threads will act like a knife and always cut into the aluminum because it is a softer material..

[KyLeader7]

Kind of like how rubber wears through aluminum.

For everyone that's done this mod: What size drill bit are you guys using to bore out the adapters??

[JJFINNAN]

kyle i believe it is 15/64 for the bit

[KyLeader7]

Gunna have to hardware store the bit I think, I probably have it but their all loose.

15/64 correct?

[JJFINNAN]

yeah 15/64 one of the posts on the 1st page

i actually found out a 6mm drillbit is .236 inches, where a 15/64 drill bit is .234 inches. I believe ill try that.... ive never seen a metric drillbit.....but im not in that business or in one that regularly uses drills...so idk. you think homedepot or lowes would sell them individually?

[KyLeader7]

Touche!

[KyLeader7]

Speedbump- One of my set screws was stripped out . Got the next larger size and a tap.

[Chemdawg]

What about M2C Racing machined aluminum 17mm hex hub adapters?

IF your using the stock axles, will these work? Also, I noticed that if I put a shim inside the pillow block before I put in the bearing, that I took out the play between my stock hub adapter and the outer bearing. I'm using the RPM front axle carriers.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLMV7

I have a shim maker at work, so I made shims of various thickness the same size as the bearing. It's hard to explain unless I could make pics. I'm not gonna pull it apart right now.

Just out of curiosity, are these the hub adapters in the above pic:

http://www.m2cracing.com/product.sc;jsessionid=6A3D9CEA954A90C3CBB08DE89E9519DF.qscstrfrnt04?productId=233&categoryId=2

[KyLeader7]

Got it all done! Couple of the inserts broke while sanding, so i'de buy more than you need. Also got some new set screws and a new tap. Lots of work but glad I did it.

[reeltech]

Chemdawg, to quickly answer your question, you must purchase the 8mm stub axles from RD Racing to work with the M2C hexes and while your at it get the RD Racing axle carriers as well and you'll have the best chance of eliminating most of the wheel slop. But I digress! I too was once also caught up in the quest to eliminate the horrid wheel wobble! I purchased the above mentioned parts at a cost of around $180.00 and was very pleased with the results- quality of these products, so I'm buy no means down playing these items. I have since retired the Revo and moved on to truggy's and been racing for a few years now and at first brought the "tight-no play" attitude from the Revo with me to the truggy's but have found, heard, and witnessed that a little play in some areas is a good thing in off-road racing. If you've had a chance to put your hands on a 1/8 scale buggy or truggy you know what I mean. If you were on-road racing then yes keep everything as tight as possible without an suspension binding. My point here is that unless you have "stupid" amounts of play don't sweat it.

[Chemdawg]

Chemdawg, to quickly answer your question, you must purchase the 8mm stub axles from RD Racing to work with the M2C hexes and while your at it get the RD Racing axle carriers as well and you'll have the best chance of eliminating most of the wheel slop. But I digress! I too was once also caught up in the quest to eliminate the horrid wheel wobble! I purchased the above mentioned parts at a cost of around $180.00 and was very pleased with the results- quality of these products, so I'm buy no means down playing these items. I have since retired the Revo and moved on to truggy's and been racing for a few years now and at first brought the "tight-no play" attitude from the Revo with me to the truggy's but have found, heard, and witnessed that a little play in some areas is a good thing in off-road racing. If you've had a chance to put your hands on a 1/8 scale buggy or truggy you know what I mean. If you were on-road racing then yes keep everything as tight as possible without an suspension binding. My point here is that unless you have "stupid" amounts of play don't sweat it.

Thanks for that info. I'm not really in the market to spend 180.00 for all the parts. I noticed that I have some play too. But for the purpose of being a backyard basher, I don't really see the need to do anything about it yet.

[Xtrakritical]

Hey guys,
By chance would anyone have (2) sets they would like to get rid of shipped to BK NYC? (or I could pic up if local)

If Possible already setup, let me know the asking price.

Thanks!

Xtra

[olds97_lss]

My local hardware store had a 6mm bit. I just used 5mm steel nuts and milled them down using a flat file and a 5mm bolt chucked into my drill. Took a while, but worked fine. Took two nuts per axle.




Still a bit of thread sticking out, but doesn't seem to hamper the purpose much.

[wheelman76]

Does anyone have any brass inserts they would like to sell? I need 8 of them

[StreetShaker]

Anybody feel like sparing 4 of those insert thingys? I can't fathom spending $20 plus shipping just to use 4 of them.....

[kamipalms]

Heres another option for you all....
I used a Helicoil ( recoil, thread repair , what ever you would like to call them) and threaded the hub.



The stock hubs are now threaded and screw on to the traxxas axles as well as using the screw pin....... 100% solid with no cance of any slop

[dabmaxx]

would any one sell some?Or how else could you mill them down if you dont have a drill press?

[olds97_lss]

would any one sell some?Or how else could you mill them down if you dont have a drill press?

My local hardware store had a 6mm bit. I just used 5mm steel nuts and milled them down using a flat file and a 5mm bolt chucked into my drill. Took a while, but worked fine. Took two nuts per axle.

Would assume you could do the same with those inserts, except it would have been way easier to mill down brass than it was to mill down steel.

I threaded 6-8 nuts on a 5mm bolt, put the threaded end of the bolt in my hand drill, put the hand drill in a vice, then used a typical flat file to slowly grind them down as the drill spun.

[Jugghack2]

why not use a coupling nut to start with so it's one piece. (file fit)
or as for the image where he cut the end off and used a nut
drill out the inner just deep enough to allow a low clearance nut and still have the threads for wheel mounting (not just cut off)

[olds97_lss]

My hardware store only had 5mm nuts, nothing else that was 5mm. I may end up getting those brass inserts later if these show signs of wear.

[ksb51rl]

would any one sell some?Or how else could you mill them down if you dont have a drill press?

I did mine by loading a spare Revo axle (and brass insert) in a drill, putting the drill in a vise, locking the trigger down, and going to town with a medium file and two grades of sandpaper. It took me about 2 minutes (once I got used to the process) to do one using this crude method. (I didn't feel like waiting for the precision machinist in the family to get to it.)

You really want to TRY to match the 6mm hole drilled in the hubs as closely as possible with the outside of these ground-down inserts. I think you'd want to do the hubs first and then file/sand the inserts to suit.

[snknby123]

i bought these and called it a day.........

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSCH9&P=7

cheaper on Fleabay....

[olds97_lss]

That's what I run on my savage, but savage axles are bigger where the hex fits which would create a wobbly wheel after a short time. Are the e-savage axles smaller than the nitro savage? If so, that's a good compromise.

[padrino]

If anyone wants to sell a few pre-made sets I'm game to buy..

[BIG-block]

That's what I run on my savage, but savage axles are bigger where the hex fits which would create a wobbly wheel after a short time. Are the e-savage axles smaller than the nitro savage? If so, that's a good compromise.

The specs on tower say 6mm ID. I think they should work fine.

[ksb51rl]

If anyone wants to sell a few pre-made sets I'm game to buy..

Please remember that offers to sell or buy non-Traxxas parts (without a Traxxas vehicle) are not allowed on these forums.

[cabledog]

ok,...nice idea..looks a little more durable than my fix..I just put about 4 wraps of teflon tape around the threads of the axle. Zero wobble.

[snknby123]

been running these 17MM hexes for a while now and it's been rock solid.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSCH9&P=7



also want to add that i really disliked these GT2 tires on my savage but for some reason on the Revo it's a great combo for bashing

[revodude14]

i bought these and called it a day.........

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSCH9&P=7

cheaper on Fleabay....

so do these work on the 17mm e-revo?

[revodude14]

what if you bought some kind of captured nut like the ofna cnc ones? then you could just shim the shaft and not have to have something threaded? I may try that unless somebody already has

[KyLeader7]

Heres another option for you all....
I used a Helicoil ( recoil, thread repair , what ever you would like to call them) and threaded the hub.



The stock hubs are now threaded and screw on to the traxxas axles as well as using the screw pin....... 100% solid with no cance of any slop

What size helicoils did you use?

[snknby123]

so do these work on the 17mm e-revo?

Using them on both my NITRO REVO's with 17MM hubs. Zero wobble/slop Don't know why they wouldn't work on hte E-REVO

[KyLeader7]

Yes they should work on the e-revo

[yevntri]

That's the best setup that money can buy, but you need RD Racing carriers and 8mm stub axles to work with those adapters. It will end up costing over $150 for the parts. I like your idea of using an insert, I will be doing the same to mine now.

now they make a kit that uses stock axle carriers!

[nitroAndroid]

wow , I'm all over this mod Too. NICE WORK! you need to design a proto-type and get your groove on. make the finished product that is ready to go. As you can see from the response on this thread you would have an instant following and alot of people would buy this just under the brilliant concept alone. I'll do the mod but I would rather buy two set's of the refined product from you ?? lol Good Job and Good luck !

[mugur]

I really hope that the Traxxas employees will read this thread.

[jCollins]

subscribed, for sure!

[cadmanslayer46]

where do you get a 6mm drillbit??

yes you can get individual bits at a home depot, lowes, menards or whatever hardware store you have, i just switched to the 17mm adapters recently and thought, how did i get bearing issues immediately,thanks for the mod ideas guys!!!!

[Stoke88]

Klimpen717- Are you still making these? I'd really like get 8 if possible. This is a great fix to this problem.