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  1. #1
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    Revo stub axle mod to eliminate wobbling (pictures)

    As you all know the new Revo and T-Maxx with 17mm hex do get some wobble on the wheels after some time.
    English isn't my native language so I'm not sure it's called wobble. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
    I had the same wobble and it got to me. First I didn't care but after a while it got worse.
    I started to think about a solution and came up with this.
    The text under every picture explains more (click image for high res).



    This is what you start with. All stock axle and hex.
    You can even see the marks inside the hex from the threads from the axle.
    They are NOT supposed to be there and makes the wobble worse.



    And this is how it looks on the car before modding it.
    There is a little play between the axle and the hex making the wheel wobble.



    This is what I have made.
    It's a piece of pipe (metal) that I have threaded inside
    and the grinded down to 6 mm outer diameter.



    These are the different pieces I have used.
    All stock parts except the pipe with threads.



    Another angle of the same pieces
    Here you see that I have drilled the hex with a 6 mm drill
    so it will fit over the new larger end on the axle.
    It is VERY important to drill the hole FIRST and then grind the pipe
    Try it on and grind more if it doesn't fit.



    Either use a large plier or some loctite to make the pipe stay on the axle.
    You wouldn't want to lose it in a pile of sand somewhere.



    This is the final product and how it looks.
    The point is to make you sweat when you put the hexes on.
    Twist and push and use some lubrication.
    The harder it is to get it on the better the fit is.


    I hope this can inspire some of you to do the same. It really works beyond what i imagined.
    There is absolutely no play between the axle and the hex anymore.
    http://www.youtube.com/user/Klimpen717

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. fallonguy's Avatar
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    Now that looks like a great idea you should make a lot more and sell them on e-bay. I would like to have a set or 2 for my revo
    I wanted to put a really cool signature but I ran

  3. #3
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    nice! work .................
    RC RUNS IN MY BLOOD!

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  4. #4
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    Now that is what Traxxas shouldve done in the first place!!!! Excellent work!!!

  5. #5
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    Count me in for a set of (4). Great idea!!!

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Awesome! I was just thinking about this the other day. I want a set!
    RIP Bart Hinson
    1992-2009

  7. #7
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    wow, i just looked at my revo. i never realized that the hexes are the cause of the wheel wobble! great job!! sell those bad boys!! i wish i had tools to do this myself, but i dont I would be interested! (at a reasonable price )
    I am RTR! 2.5 Revo .18TM/loaded...

  8. #8
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    wow i would by a set if a had a new revo lol

  9. #9
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    Last edited by ukrsonic; 08-17-2009 at 09:24 PM.
    Batteries are for girls :)

  10. #10
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    I ground the end of the hexes back leaving just enough room for thr hex nut. Then you can put a locknut on the axle. Works good.

  11. #11
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    What about M2C Racing machined aluminum 17mm hex hub adapters?
    Batteries are for girls :)

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ukrsonic
    What about M2C Racing machined aluminum 17mm hex hub adapters?
    I believe this fix was meant for those that DON`T have the M2Cīs
    My "Tube" -> http://www.youtube.com/user/InFlejms

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ukrsonic
    What about M2C Racing machined aluminum 17mm hex hub adapters?
    That's the best setup that money can buy, but you need RD Racing carriers and 8mm stub axles to work with those adapters. It will end up costing over $150 for the parts. I like your idea of using an insert, I will be doing the same to mine now.
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  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ajb1205's Avatar
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    My brass inserts showed up today (all 100 of them...minimum order ). Looks like I might have to do a few extra sets if I can get them to work the way I want them to.
    Vantage/MMM/1515 Revo
    MMM/1518 Revo
    T-Maxx 3.3

  15. #15
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    m2c racing

    Quote Originally Posted by Atomicpunk
    That's the best setup that money can buy, but you need RD Racing carriers and 8mm stub axles to work with those adapters. It will end up costing over $150 for the parts. I like your idea of using an insert, I will be doing the same to mine now.
    now they make a kit that uses stock axle carriers!

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ukrsonic
    What about M2C Racing machined aluminum 17mm hex hub adapters?

    IF your using the stock axles, will these work? Also, I noticed that if I put a shim inside the pillow block before I put in the bearing, that I took out the play between my stock hub adapter and the outer bearing. I'm using the RPM front axle carriers.

    Code:
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLMV7
    I have a shim maker at work, so I made shims of various thickness the same size as the bearing. It's hard to explain unless I could make pics. I'm not gonna pull it apart right now.

    Just out of curiosity, are these the hub adapters in the above pic:

    Code:
    http://www.m2cracing.com/product.sc;jsessionid=6A3D9CEA954A90C3CBB08DE89E9519DF.qscstrfrnt04?productId=233&categoryId=2

  17. #17
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    Chemdawg, to quickly answer your question, you must purchase the 8mm stub axles from RD Racing to work with the M2C hexes and while your at it get the RD Racing axle carriers as well and you'll have the best chance of eliminating most of the wheel slop. But I digress! I too was once also caught up in the quest to eliminate the horrid wheel wobble! I purchased the above mentioned parts at a cost of around $180.00 and was very pleased with the results- quality of these products, so I'm buy no means down playing these items. I have since retired the Revo and moved on to truggy's and been racing for a few years now and at first brought the "tight-no play" attitude from the Revo with me to the truggy's but have found, heard, and witnessed that a little play in some areas is a good thing in off-road racing. If you've had a chance to put your hands on a 1/8 scale buggy or truggy you know what I mean. If you were on-road racing then yes keep everything as tight as possible without an suspension binding. My point here is that unless you have "stupid" amounts of play don't sweat it.
    Last edited by reeltech; 06-14-2010 at 09:15 PM.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by reeltech
    Chemdawg, to quickly answer your question, you must purchase the 8mm stub axles from RD Racing to work with the M2C hexes and while your at it get the RD Racing axle carriers as well and you'll have the best chance of eliminating most of the wheel slop. But I digress! I too was once also caught up in the quest to eliminate the horrid wheel wobble! I purchased the above mentioned parts at a cost of around $180.00 and was very pleased with the results- quality of these products, so I'm buy no means down playing these items. I have since retired the Revo and moved on to truggy's and been racing for a few years now and at first brought the "tight-no play" attitude from the Revo with me to the truggy's but have found, heard, and witnessed that a little play in some areas is a good thing in off-road racing. If you've had a chance to put your hands on a 1/8 scale buggy or truggy you know what I mean. If you were on-road racing then yes keep everything as tight as possible without an suspension binding. My point here is that unless you have "stupid" amounts of play don't sweat it.


    Thanks for that info. I'm not really in the market to spend 180.00 for all the parts. I noticed that I have some play too. But for the purpose of being a backyard basher, I don't really see the need to do anything about it yet.

  19. #19
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    Anyone have Xtra

    Hey guys,
    By chance would anyone have (2) sets they would like to get rid of shipped to BK NYC? (or I could pic up if local)

    If Possible already setup, let me know the asking price.

    Thanks!

    Xtra

  20. #20
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    I will also take a set of 8 for both of mine if you decide to make some.

  21. #21
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    hey ukrsonic, what is that piece you started out from? your method looks like i could do it. did yours fit nicely?
    I am RTR! 2.5 Revo .18TM/loaded...

  22. #22
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    Looks like a brass insert. Or maybe it's a brass insert.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 08-18-2009 at 09:45 AM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  23. #23
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    Yes its a brass insert, and it works just great! One of my friends did that mod with his Revo a long time ago, that his photos not mine I just did the same thing with mine
    Last edited by ukrsonic; 08-18-2009 at 09:57 AM.
    Batteries are for girls :)

  24. #24
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    sweet. thanks guys. do u know the specifics on the insert so i could just run to the store and try this out?
    I am RTR! 2.5 Revo .18TM/loaded...

  25. #25
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    I did the search and I posted two places to get them, all you have to do is click the links to get all the info you need about those inserts.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ajb1205's Avatar
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    I have a box of inserts on order (I work for an Oilfield supply company so I can get almost anything for really cheap). Thanks for the info and ideas guys.
    Vantage/MMM/1515 Revo
    MMM/1518 Revo
    T-Maxx 3.3

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. KyLeader7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    I did the search and I posted two places to get them, all you have to do is click the links to get all the info you need about those inserts.

    I'm surprised you arn't taking any credit for this mod. Wasn't it you that has that photobucket account how-to for this mod??
    Learn by doing

  28. #28
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    Yes. I did the mod a looooooong time ago. But it was done differently than what Klimpen717 did.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  29. #29
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    Thanks for the pics and great solution to an annoying problem ukrsonic. I just did the mod last night, and it seems to be a solid fix.







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  30. #30
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    You are not going to find them at your local hardware store. I would order them from McMaster Carr(Mistercrash's link).
    Believe 1/2 of what you see,and 0 of what you hear

  31. #31
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    i read on another post that teflon tape does the job too so im giving it a shot since i already have some lying around. im predicting that it wont last nearly as long, but hey just givin it a shot.
    I am RTR! 2.5 Revo .18TM/loaded...

  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. KyLeader7's Avatar
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    Atomic, where did you buy those inserts?
    Learn by doing

  33. #33
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    I found some at mcmaster carr.

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#94510a045/=3a7yj7

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by KyLeader7
    Atomic, where did you buy those inserts?
    I ordered them from drillspot.com.

    http://www.drillspot.com/products/35...d_Press_Insert
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  35. #35
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    This mod looks great. I most definitely need to do this one!

    -Brett
    4wd Sportmaxx 3.3
    E-Revo - Mamba Monster - Neu 4s

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. KyLeader7's Avatar
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    Once i notice any wobble ill defentaly do this. yet ive been running a year strong with the ofna's without wobble..
    Learn by doing

  37. #37
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    where do you get a 6mm drillbit??

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyber_06_wolf
    where do you get a 6mm drillbit??

    lol home depot or any hardwear store
    mohawk indian r/c`er
    :P

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyber_06_wolf View Post
    where do you get a 6mm drillbit??
    yes you can get individual bits at a home depot, lowes, menards or whatever hardware store you have, i just switched to the 17mm adapters recently and thought, how did i get bearing issues immediately,thanks for the mod ideas guys!!!!
    Master of Traxxas engine longevity....

  40. #40
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    i actually found out a 6mm drillbit is .236 inches, where a 15/64 drill bit is .234 inches. I believe ill try that.... ive never seen a metric drillbit.....but im not in that business or in one that regularly uses drills...so idk. you think homedepot or lowes would sell them individually?

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