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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    297

    Fitting a Wrap around Heli Heat Sink to your E16's

    I'm very sleepy, so this may not be english. Sorry ;-)

    So, you have heat problems. You think heat sinks are going to help. You don't know which ones to get because, well, the E16's haven't been out long enough for after market parts.

    No worries, this is a simple problem.



    There are a number of heatsinks for 380 sized heli motors already. There are many out there and they all follow the same basic formula. These sinks wrap aound the WHOLE can. That won't work for us because the fins interfere with the chassis, the receiver, the slipper nut, and the ESC. How do we fix this?

    TRIM!

    So the formula is basic. The heatsink NEEDS to cover more that a 180 degree arc's circumference of the motor. This is simply because the sink needs to be press fit to the motor. If the sink covers less than a 180 degree arc of the circumference of the motor, then it will simply fall off.

    So, buy a sink. Mark off a 200-210 degree arc of the circumference of the sink.

    http://www.coreyfro.com/rc10/IMG_0389.JPG

    We could stop here and simply make the cut and snap it on. Optionally, one might endeavor to eek out more material from the original sink to make as much contact with the motor's surface area as possible. At this point, the rest should be fairly obvious. Find out how much sink you can leave on until you have interference, trim:

    http://www.coreyfro.com/rc10/IMG_0390.JPG

    Then press fit it on to your ride:

    http://www.coreyfro.com/rc10/IMG_0391.JPG

    For passively cooled applications, you want thick, short, widely spaced fins. This means low surface area, which is bad, but unless you force air through the fins, thin, tight, tall fins will trap air and become useless. Even the cheapo sink I'm using doubles the surface area of the motor, and what more important, that surface area is on top where there is actual airflow.

    Computer CPU thermal contact paste could be used to assure that there is full contact with between the sink and the can. It's just a little messy and using too much is simply waste.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Western australia
    Posts
    514
    dude you dont need to cut a heli heat sink you can just buy DuraTrax Heat Sink for Mini Quake!!!

    link:
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJPU9&P=7

    plus this one is better because the fins go length ways... this means the air has a better flow rate over the fins which = more cooling
    Last edited by concreat; 06-23-2009 at 03:54 AM.
    GARAGE
    e-revo, ME-revo, micro-t, slash, DX3S

  3. #3
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    55
    Nicely done.

  4. #4
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    West Coast Central Florida
    Posts
    91
    FYI these will work also. I found it on FleaBay from Dinball but other sellers here in the States have them also. I only bought it from HongKong because they had the heatsinks measurements posted on the webpage.
    HobbyETC also has them.
    (2)E-LST's(2)E-Lightning Stadium Pro2's(3)E-Revo's

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    297
    The point is, there are even better sinks out there, and fitting them just takes a little work.

    Also, the LJR sink is a bad idea. As I explained elsewhere in the forum, that gap in the sink is precious surface area, wasted. The section of fins over the gap is pretty much useless as their ability to dissipate heat will be reduced to a fraction of what it could be.

    The quake one looks good, but it isn't the end all be all. There are others out there that are better, just require work.

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