Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 43

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    auburn, wa
    Posts
    584

    Pictures of how to shim a diff.

    This is a brief description of how to shim your diffs. I'll do my best to give you a step by step description of each picture.

    Here is a picture of the diff. and the shims I use.


    Remove the 4 screws shown in this picture


    Separate the cases


    Remove this gear


    Place shims on the shaft as shown. I usually start with 1 or 2 shims.


    Slide the shims all the way down until they are against the gear.


    Insert the gear back into the housing


    Put the cases back together and insert the 4 screws


    Check for slop by trying to move the shaft on the left in and out. If it feels snug, check for binding by rotating it. If it all feels good, your done. If it feels sloppy, add another shim. You want it to move as little as possible in and out, while still rotating freely.


    Hopefull this post helps those of you with questions on how to shim the diff. I'm not a pro by any means, this is just the method I use.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 03-27-2010 at 12:39 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    oakland ca
    Posts
    1,049
    great pics and explaining! ive never shimmed a diff, but is that the only place that needs shims? i thought i remember reading there was two places to shim.
    www.knoxxgear.com

  3. #3
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    102
    I noticed that when I fill my diffs with grease they seem a little tighter. Does anyone else fill theres with grease??
    Easy on the throttle, then punch it!

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    4,902
    You also need to shim the diff side to side, not just pinion depth. Also, you should never shim a dirty diff...always thoroughly wash all grease off before shimming.

    Grease (inside the diff cup) will make the diff seem tighter when you spin it by hand, but it is actually less vicious than diff oil, so it will not perform as well as diff oil.

    Grease on the ring and pinion is fine, since metal gears need lube, but you only need a little, just enough to coat the gears.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    auburn, wa
    Posts
    584
    Yes you can also shim the output shafts of the diff, but that very rarely needs to be shimmed. The input is usually the part that wears first and starts slipping.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    4,902
    The ring is harder than the pinion, and the diff moving side to side is what wears the pinion. Pinion depth should only be shimmed AFTER you have the diff itself shimmed side to side. If you can move the diff side to side without the pinion in, it needs to be shimmed.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    auburn, wa
    Posts
    584
    Hmm. Every time I have had a clicking diff, the process shown above has eliminated the problem. From my experiences the mesh between the ring and pinion loosens up, which is why I shim it. I have never had a problem with the mesh on the internal diff. gears.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    4,902
    Quote Originally Posted by yzf128r
    I have never had a problem with the mesh on the internal diff. gears.
    I am not talking about shimming the internal spider gears, I am talking about shimming the output shafts, to stop the whole diff from moving side to side in the diff case.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  9. #9
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    ◄Incognito►
    Posts
    1,580
    Tagged: Just in case I forget....
    (√) Zer0 tall-er-ance 4 stu-pid-it-deeeeee.

  10. #10
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    106
    This may be a stupid question but why shim?

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    auburn, wa
    Posts
    584
    Quote Originally Posted by michindi
    This may be a stupid question but why shim?
    after a while the gears begin to wear and will start slipping. You can shim them to stop the slipping and get more life out of them.

  12. #12
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    1,749
    And where do you get these shims from?

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    auburn, wa
    Posts
    584
    Quote Originally Posted by 2IS
    And where do you get these shims from?
    I get shims from my lhs. They are just 6mm bearing shims.

  14. #14
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Good, green, Oregon!
    Posts
    2,219
    I got the same shims as in the picture from my LHS. 6mm shims.

    One thing that I have found with the diffs that makes a big difference is to not tighten the out case to much. It really starts to bind the action quite a bit. There is a fine line between just tight enough and too tight. WIth the outer case, you aren't really needing to keep any liquids in like the inner case. The grease is sticky enough to stay on the ring gear pretty well.
    Eat my road grit, liver lips! -Clark W. Griswold

  15. #15
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,121
    thanks, great how to!
    I was anti-obama before it was cool!

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    4,902
    [Here] is the proper way to shim your diffs...
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  17. #17
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    84
    When your diff starts clicking what is the best way to find out if it's front or rear diff? Please be as detailed as possible.

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Western Kentucky
    Posts
    792
    Hold your truck planted to the ground watch to see if its the rear or front tires that skip a beat
    ERBE,Losi 8ight,Slash 4X4

  19. #19
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    W Monroe, Louisiana
    Posts
    1,995
    For me clicking on hard acceleration is rear... And clicking on hard braking is the front.
    Its All relative to your perspective.

  20. #20
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    84
    Tks for input guys I'm going to give those recommendations a try and see if I can figure out where mine is coming from.. sounds like it's on the acceleration, will know more tomorrow..

  21. #21
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    104
    i'm sure saving this post !!! great stuff guys

  22. #22
    RC poster
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    5
    I have had my E-Revo since 3 April and have had to change out both diffs already. I know most will advise me to adjust the slipper and/or use 4S versus the 6S I currently run. How about this, Traxxas should build an RC that can handle the motor and ESC. I may be fairly new to this hobby but I know a crappy product when I buy one. Chevy doesn't tell my not to stomp the gas on my Vett because it will break stuff. If this were a full sized car, it would have been recalled. The E-Revo needs to be fixed! I can't believe Traxxas is allowing their customers to suffer like this. I am VERY disappointed in them. How is it that LOSI's diff can hold up and Traxxas' cannot? Traxxas reminds me of the Gateway computer company of the late 90s. They were an up and coming company, neck and neck with Dell but lost their loyal customer base due to distribution of inferior products and poor response to customer feedback. Traxxas take note; a bad reputation is hard to recover from. PLEASE FIX THIS PROBLEM ASAP!

  23. #23
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Long island N.Y
    Posts
    132
    Quote Originally Posted by bip View Post
    I have had my E-Revo since 3 April and have had to change out both diffs already. I know most will advise me to adjust the slipper and/or use 4S versus the 6S I currently run. How about this, Traxxas should build an RC that can handle the motor and ESC. I may be fairly new to this hobby but I know a crappy product when I buy one. Chevy doesn't tell my not to stomp the gas on my Vett because it will break stuff. If this were a full sized car, it would have been recalled. The E-Revo needs to be fixed! I can't believe Traxxas is allowing their customers to suffer like this. I am VERY disappointed in them. How is it that LOSI's diff can hold up and Traxxas' cannot? Traxxas reminds me of the Gateway computer company of the late 90s. They were an up and coming company, neck and neck with Dell but lost their loyal customer base due to distribution of inferior products and poor response to customer feedback. Traxxas take note; a bad reputation is hard to recover from. PLEASE FIX THIS PROBLEM ASAP!
    Take your vett and do hole shots every day for 2 hrs and see how your clutch and rear end is holding up. Then when it brakes go to Chevy and complain they will laugh at you. I race 1/4 mile cars now for 13 years. I have lost 15k engines in one pass. You need to pay to play. People need to step back and think really what these little Rc cars and trucks are doing. The amount of stress we put on them is crazy. I dont think you can jump your ford f350 all day at 30-50 mph and drive it home in one piece. We just need to realize that pretty much rtr means giving you a good platform to start.

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    851
    Very simple, actually.. The losi diff is made for a car that weighs 13 pounds without batteries and gas. The revo weighs in at 9 pounds without batteries and 10.9 with. Thats a huge difference for the diffs to handle.
    That and 6S, 6S is just a lot of power, on any RC. If it is not the diffs that break, something else will break.
    It's almost impossible for traxxas to get better diffs in the e-revo without redesigning a lot. A possible solution for you might be shimming your diffs, something that is not possible in the factory because it different for every diff, but it will improve durability. Another solution is to get a castle link (which should be in the box...) and adjust your Punch control to 30-40% or so.

    But yeah, they could have gone for 1/8 diffs when they designed this car, but i guess the didn't think about that when they made the Revo (not the E-Revo). Almost everything on this car is 1/10, except for the diffs.

  25. #25
    RC poster
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    5
    WesleyK, that's all good info, however the bottom line for me is; The Castle Mamba can handle 6S and if they are going to put that setup in the car, it should be able to handle it's full power. My Rustler's motor can handle a 3S and I run it with a 3S often. The Rustler can handle it. I understand normal wear and tear but the e-revo is a flawed product. For a $1K car it should work much better than it does. I still believe they need to fix the problem. They have my money and I have a flawed truck. If this is common place in this hobby and acceptable, I guess I'll have to find a new hobby. I love the RCs but RTR should be RTR. The Slash is a great truck with a ton of hop ups. They need to fix the E-Revo with hop ups. But I guess I'm the exception. Seems everyone just accepts what they get and are willing to try and fix the problem or use a portion 30-40% of what they paid for. If I were abusing the thing, by towing my kid in his wagon or doing tug of wars, I'd blame noone, but all I do is drive on tracks, track like conditions, parks and dirt. I'd don't think it's fair that in just a month I've had to replace two diffs . I love the truck when it's running, but mostly it seems to sit on my work bench in peices .
    Last edited by bip; 05-20-2013 at 12:22 PM.

  26. #26
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    3
    Somthing has to give when running 6 lipos w the revo and bashing its really a racing truggy, I have had My ERBE for at least500 runs w 6s and only a few damages due to operator error. If your slipper is set right and punch is turned down a bit it really saves on diffs and drive train. but if you want to bash I would go with 4 s to save on crashing and diff damage jsut a thought and good luck

  27. #27
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    851
    I have my revo for almost 6 months now, both 4s and 6s runs and i have just rebuild the front diff today. Starts to show some wear but its still fine. Looks like some of us have luck with the diffs and others have not.

    I will agree that if a product is ready to run, and comes with 6S lipos and advertising it should be able to handle 6s. The stock revo isnt, you totally right on that. But punch control is a great way to save the diffs, i barely notice the setting but my diffs are still in good shape as i wrote before. It only helps with putting the power down, like a slipper clutch but electronic. You should try it.

  28. #28
    RC poster
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    5
    WesleyK,

    I apprciate your advise. In lue of a better alternative (like a Traxxas fix) I will try the punch control option. Thanks for your time and recommendations.

  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rjm2519's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Fl
    Posts
    3,062
    Pushing the limits of any rc will cause parts to wear and break faster that is the truth of this hobby no matter the manufacturer. A rustler/pede/slash/bandit diff will break just as easily pushing the limits on 3s as a revo does. I have worn out my share of diffs in rustlers and revos. Point is if it moves it will eventually wear out, if you do your best to take it easy on those parts that are known to have problems they will last considerably longer.
    Don’t handicap children by making life easy

  30. #30
    RC poster
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by rjm2519 View Post
    Pushing the limits of any rc will cause parts to wear and break faster that is the truth of this hobby no matter the manufacturer. A rustler/pede/slash/bandit diff will break just as easily pushing the limits on 3s as a revo does. I have worn out my share of diffs in rustlers and revos. Point is if it moves it will eventually wear out, if you do your best to take it easy on those parts that are known to have problems they will last considerably longer.
    rjm2519,

    Everyone is entitled to an opinion and I respect yours, however, I cannot not subscribe to it. I would wager that I can find 20 posts/articles related to E-Revo diff problems for every one that you can find related to a Rustler and Bandit diff combined. My rustler diff has never failed running 3S nor has my buddy's bandit; so believe what you will but you'll have to present a much more compelling argument if you want to sway my opinion.

  31. #31
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    152
    Quote Originally Posted by bip View Post
    I have had my E-Revo since 3 April and have had to change out both diffs already. I know most will advise me to adjust the slipper and/or use 4S versus the 6S I currently run. How about this, Traxxas should build an RC that can handle the motor and ESC. I may be fairly new to this hobby but I know a crappy product when I buy one. Chevy doesn't tell my not to stomp the gas on my Vett because it will break stuff. If this were a full sized car, it would have been recalled. The E-Revo needs to be fixed! I can't believe Traxxas is allowing their customers to suffer like this. I am VERY disappointed in them. How is it that LOSI's diff can hold up and Traxxas' cannot? Traxxas reminds me of the Gateway computer company of the late 90s. They were an up and coming company, neck and neck with Dell but lost their loyal customer base due to distribution of inferior products and poor response to customer feedback. Traxxas take note; a bad reputation is hard to recover from. PLEASE FIX THIS PROBLEM ASAP!
    Love it!! Completely agree! We pay for a product that doesn't deliver and nothing happens about it.

  32. #32
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    middle o nowhere Ill-inois
    Posts
    775
    ^^^^+1
    People complain about the stock tires too. I am guessing Traxxas knows they slip - and that saves parts wear.
    These trucks take a huge beating even under mild use compared to their 1:1 counterparts. I agree the claims on packaging are inflated IMO and that's a little lame. But how many car commercials show the driver standing on it curve to curve and a disclaimer is on the bottom of the screen the whole time lol. The E Revo's competitors make plenty of speed claims too I see js.
    The competition has diff troubles/need to shim as well from what I see.
    Summit, ERBE X2, 4pdes, 2pdes, etc lol

  33. #33
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    37
    I'm having a hard time finding all the needed shims to complete this guide. It's from a couple years ago. Anyone have current links to the parts I can get in one place?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    777
    Like Wesley said, all available on ebay.

    Calandra 6, 8, 10mm shims - p/n: 4736, 4738, 4740 respectively

    Quote Originally Posted by StaticBalls View Post
    I'm having a hard time finding all the needed shims to complete this guide. It's from a couple years ago. Anyone have current links to the parts I can get in one place?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

  35. #35
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    851
    Search for 3R racing shims or Calandra shims on ebay. Both have them in 6mm 8mm and 10mm

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    778
    Im in the middle of doing my own shimming guide, I will post a link here when done.

    I also use the 3racing shims, as their shim packs come with different thicknesses of each size.
    To SUMMIT up, its my coolest RC.

  37. #37
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    877


    I'm not the author of the diagram it was made from another forum member. Place shims (6mm, 8mm shims) between the differential and the bearing, the purpose is to bring closer the diff ring, and the pinion, also place shims on the pinion itself. Reassembly the diff and the case and check for binding.

  38. #38
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    37
    You guys are awesome! Been getting confused trying to get the right ones and was worried about spending money on the wrong ones. Will order today!

  39. #39
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    778
    I prefer the 3racing shims for the assortment of thickness` and the LEM O-rings last forever



    To SUMMIT up, its my coolest RC.

  40. #40
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    777
    ^^ Various thickness shims are definitely nice to have. I also have Kyosho 10mm shims (KYO96647) that come in 2 thicknesses.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •