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Thread: Modest E-Slayer

  1. #1
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    Modest E-Slayer

    Here's my e-slayer I just finished minutes ago. First impression: That was by far the easiest thing w/ RC's I've done in a long time (I'm coming from rc rock crawling). I currently have it set up w/ the titan the slash comes w/ b/c my havoc 10.5 is being warrantied. And most of the electricals are in their general location but I need to permanently mount them.

    I'm calling this a modest e-slayer b/c my goal is keep it light and to have a top speed in the low-mid 20's. I simply drive it around my street and yard and sometimes take it to the desert and I don't need to do wheelies. I choose the slayer after driving the slash b/c 2wd just wasn't fun in the desert sand or low grip surfaces.

    I wanted to keep it light b/c the heavier these things get the more expensive they get. Parts break more often and you need larger batteries, bigger motors, and high powered esc's. I have a reasonably low top speed because I don't have all that the much fun doing speed runs and I don't really have the space to do it. With this in mind I wanted to use a 540 sized motor and 2s lipo. After my first run with it, the outside temperature was 105, the motor temp never got above 130 and would quickly cooled to 115 when in the shade. Again, this is w/ the titan, I'll update this thread when my havoc returns.

    I have it geared really low w/ a final drive near 19:1, calculated here: http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_top_speed.html. If my havoc runs cool I may consider moving to 3s to get my desired top speed. I did the second gear lockout found here: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7441 it was super easy and I removed 1st gear. I installed a 40t spur and 10t pinion, I purchased from: http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...=5mmmod1pinion and I'm using the bore reducer. I also installed the narrow gear set. The final piece is the Tekno motor mount I purchased from: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/25812. I redrilled the mount to move the motor closer to the spur. I messed it up and still ended up using spacers on one side

    Currently my weight is 7lbs even. This is actually about 4 ounces more than I estimated but I'll wait till my havoc comes in to get the final weight. I will eventually be looking for places to remove weight as I would like to get it down to 6.5lbs. The stock slayer w/o fuel is 7.5lbs so I figure being a pound lighter should add to the longevity and help make it more stable. In it's current form it was actually not easy at all to flip I had to use full throttle going down a hill power slide and hit the brakes. Otherwise it was very stable but we'll see how long that last when I get it moving faster.

    Here's the only shot I got.




    I'll keep this thread updated w/ my long term findings of using a 540 sized 10.5 havoc brushless motor. I'm hopeful it'll hold up. Also feel free to ask any questions. This was an easy conversion I would encourage anyone to do.

  2. #2
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    Hey mulepic, looking good.

    Let us know how the havoc does when you get it back.

  3. #3
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    Looks pretty good, good luck with the titan let us know when you get the Havoc back and get it in. I want to know if it will get it to your speeds.
    E-Slayer-MMM 2200kv

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    Thanks. This morning I played w/ my Futaba 3pm and I think I found a way to use the mechanical brake and still have reverse. I think this would help keep the motor cool and extend runtimes. I'll post a picture if I pull it off.

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    Thats awsome glad one of us can still you the mechanical brakes and have reverse.
    E-Slayer-MMM 2200kv

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    Quote Originally Posted by TXSuperman2005
    Thats awsome glad one of us can still you the mechanical brakes and have reverse.

    Well it won't be totally convenient. I'll have to press a switch on the handle to get it activated. But I'm ok w/ it b/c I really only use reverse when I run it into a bush or something

  7. #7
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    Well at least you can use it, I just had to lock mine out of reverse on the motor.
    E-Slayer-MMM 2200kv

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    I managed to hook up the mechanical brake and have reverse using the Futabe 3pm. First I would like to say the mechanical brake is awesome, I can bring the thing to a skidding stop on my driveway (somewhat smooth) and a very quick stop on the pavement. I always thought a nitro conversion would be the best option b/c of the mechanical brake and through its use the motor can run cooler and longer. But I wasn't too excited about loosing reverse. Well through the use of the 'condition 2' switch and channel mixing of the 3pm I'm able to have both.

    The reverse feature is a bit unconventional but very easy to get use to. Instead of pushing the trigger forward to activate reverse I actually press a button on the handle then pull the trigger back. So if you're following, pushing the trigger forward engages the mechanical brake in all scenarios. Then in normal driving mode pulling the trigger back moves the car forward. That is familiar to everyone. The only difference now is I press the condition-2 button then pull the trigger and the car goes backwards and pushing the trigger backwards is still the brake. I achieved this by using the 3rd channel as the throttle and the 2nd channel as the brake. So when programming the 3pm make the 2nd channel the master and the 3rd the brake.

    When I bought the 3pm I compared it to the dx3 and only the 3pm advertized this sort of mixing. Maybe someone w/ the dx3 can chime in if the same programming can be accomplished with it.

  9. #9
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    you can do the same on the DX3R, it has like 5 program buttons. On my DX3S I just use a Y cable for the ESC and the brake servo works a treat theres a little switch on the side of the wheel which moves up or down (AUX), REV/FWD in my case
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jammi
    you can do the same on the DX3R, it has like 5 program buttons. On my DX3S I just use a Y cable for the ESC and the brake servo works a treat theres a little switch on the side of the wheel which moves up or down (AUX), REV/FWD in my case

    Is the little switch on the side used to set the trim?

  11. #11
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    na there are two trims for the steering and throttle on the DX3S and one is a flick switch for the AUX like a light switch up or down, but I have the Revo gear box with reverse and use a micro servo to shift but I know the DX3R has channel mixing and im sure the 3S has it also.
    Last edited by jammi; 05-08-2009 at 11:21 AM.
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    I just got word from novak that my havoc 10.5 was sent out on Wednesday. I hope to have some initial updates this weekend.

    As an aside, I like my novak and I've had 2 of their goat esc's w/ no issues but I'm starting to find there are more than just me w/ novak issues. What is the general opinion of novak? I really like sensored and I don't think I'll be happy w/ sensorless now that I've had sensored. So what gives w/ novak? Any thoughts?

  13. #13
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    Everyone at my LHS says they are good but they take alot of work to keep them up and get them just right, so they tell most people to get the Castle stuff and the LOSI Xcelorion set up.
    E-Slayer-MMM 2200kv

  14. #14
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    yeah I find the Xcelorion sensored stuff works better then the Novak
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    According to novak, the motor checked out just fine and it was just the esc that melted down in smoke. So maybe I'll just try a different brand of sensored esc. I see tekin has one but it's pricey. Maybe I'll try one of the ezrun guys.

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    Hey check out the Xcelorion system and see if the ESC from that will work.
    E-Slayer-MMM 2200kv

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXSuperman2005
    Hey check out the Xcelorion system and see if the ESC from that will work.
    I checked those out on ebay and I only could find a sensored motor but not esc. Which seems strange, I'll check again. Thanks.

  18. #18
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    I just got my havoc 10.5 this afternoon and I put it in. Let me tell you what a blast this thing is to drive!!!! It's not rocket fast but it's a ton of fun bashing around my yard and street with it. Also the mechanical brakes are AMAZING!!! I've never seen anything stop so fast and after a couple times the must heat up b/c they get even better.

    I'm also really impressed w/ the 10.5. After heavy acceleration and braking the motor only got to 110, mind you it's 98 here right now. I really think off-loading the braking responsibilities is what is keeping the motor cool.

    Finally, the super low gearing is very cool. It spins all 4 wheels on any surfaces and the power slides are a blast. I'll eventually put the gps on there and get a reading. As for the weight tally, I lost 2 ounces moving to brushless but gained them back w/ the mechanical brake so I'm still an even 7lbs.

    So I think I'm going to keep this thing which means I'll be listing the stock nitro motor, starter, and tank on ebay shortly for anyone that is interested. Obviously it hasn't had a drop of fuel through it.

  19. #19
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    Thats awsome dude glad to hear that it works good for you. Put some pics and videos up so we can see this thing.
    E-Slayer-MMM 2200kv

  20. #20
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    I just did my speed run and endurance test.
    Stats:
    -novak havoc 10.5
    -2s lipo 4300mah
    -narrow gear set
    -2nd gear locked
    -10T pinion
    -40T spur
    -running weight 7.0lbs
    -outside temp and ground temp 95F
    -Total run time was 40 mins
    -ESC temp never above 98
    -Battery temp never above 98
    -Motor temp never aboce 107
    -Top speed 17mph

    I know the thing is slow but it's still quite fun bashing through my yard and street. I'm going to step up to a 12T pinion which should get me to 20mph. If the electricals still run cool and I get decent run time then I'm going to move to 3s lipo which should get me to 30mph and then I'll be happy.

  21. #21
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    Nice E-Slayer, there is a lot of good and valuable information in this thread for when I convert my Slayer. Also thanks for the link for locking the second gear, I’ve been wondering what the proper way to do that was. Keep up the good work and put some more pictures up when you get a chance and maybe a video.
    -----The iceage is over, embrace the voltage.-----

  22. #22
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    Not to bad for such a small motor dude glad its working for you. 20mph is dang good out of that 1/10th motor I really wasn't sure if it would have the power to get it moving, but I am really impressed by it.
    E-Slayer-MMM 2200kv

  23. #23
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    This morning I put in the 12T pinion and my top speed increased to 22mph. The outside and ground temperature was 80F and after 8 minutes of WOT driving the motor, esc, and battery never got above 97F. So I'm actually rethinking my approach slightly. I still need to see how long the battery will last. I'm hoping I still get 30mins out of it. If all goes well then I'm going to put in the 15T pinion and see if it gets me above 25mph with cool temps. If it does then I'm actually going to hold off on the 3s lipo and try and remove 8oz to bring the car down to 6.5lbs in hopes I can squeeze 1 or 2mph more. If this is successful then I think I'll be done w/ the motor selection process and move on to performance tuning, i.e. move the motor lower, battery lower, swaybars, etc.

  24. #24
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    im too lazy to do all that but good one mate, dont think iv checked the temps once yet after my build and yesterday I ran with the Novak HV 4.5T from my revo with its set of 3s 3700 35c and the thing was doing stupid speeds when I came to a stop I could see the heat comming off the ESC and motor (maybe I should keep a eye on the temps, thinking back to the last 2 MMM that have died).
    Last edited by jammi; 05-11-2009 at 12:23 PM.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by jammi
    im too lazy to do all that but good one mate, dont think iv checked the temps once yet after my build and yesterday I ran with the Novak HV 4.5T from my revo with its set of 3s 3700 35c and the thing was doing stupid speeds when I came to a stop I could see the heat comming off the ESC and motor (maybe I should keep a eye on the temps, thinking back to the last 2 MMM that have died).

    That's pretty funny. I actually considered moving to a hotter motore for more speed but I like my long runtimes. For me 25-30mph with 30mins of runtime will be sufficient.

    Maybe the 4.5 would work with the gearing I'm running (19:1 fdr), what's your gearing?

  26. #26
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    em? think the current spur in the Slayer is 38T steel gear (fwd only locked to 2nd gear tranny) and the pinion on the Novak 4.5t is a 12t. The mmm setup runs a 16t pinion on the revo reverse tranny which I think still has a 40T spur but as I said above I dont take much notice lol
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    Well jammi, I think you are onto something. You motivated me to look into Novak's Ballistic motors. One option would be for me to use a ballistic 6.5T and go back to the 19:1 fdr and this should get me close to 30mph with reasonable temperatures and keep the weight of the vehicle down. But this will reduce runtimes from 40min to ~25mins w/ my 2s 4A lipo. The only downside is the cost for this set up. If I did this I would like to use the Novak HV vs. the GTB so if it doesn't work out I can move to a larger motor and more cells. This setup would be $200 after discounts from tower. I would then sell the havoc.

  28. #28
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    Just a little update. I ran the 12t pinion till the battery died and I got nearly 30mins out of the 4A 2s lipo. Then I put in the 15T pinion and my top speed increased to 26.8mph. The temperature got much hotter but I'm sure a lot of that has to do w/ the fact that I was running in direct sunlight on pavement that reads 145F and the cement in my driveway was 130F. The outside temp is 95F. So after 10mins of running the the battery read 110F, the esc 130F, and the motor 147F. I'm hoping to get more than 20mins of runtime w/ this setup. Tonight once the street is in the shade I'll try to update this thread with more temps and runtimes.

    I'm pretty happy with it, this thing is way more fun than the slash and I still smile ear to ear when the mechanical brake brings it to a screeching halt on pavement.

  29. #29
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    Wow - congrats mulepic - I'm happy to say I was wrong about overloading the motor, and that's great to hear it's working out for you.

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    Well we'll see, I'm still waiting for the sun to go down so the ground isn't 145F then I'll see if the motor runs cooler. Stay tuned.

    Meanwhile I'm thinking of ways to lighten it up.

  31. #31
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    I just got done testing the latest setup. Here are the stats:

    -novak havoc 10.5 (4200Kv)
    -2s lipo 4000mah
    -narrow gear set
    -2nd gear locked
    -15T pinion
    -40T spur
    -running weight 7.0lbs
    -outside temp and ground temp 95F
    -Total run time was 20mins
    -ESC temp never above 110
    -Battery temp never above 105
    -Motor temp never above 128
    -Top speed 26mph

    I'm actually quite surprised by this b/c I didn't think it would be possible to run this motor in the slayer. I used this same motor, esc, and battery in the slash and the motor ran really hot, the ESC would actually cut out. The slash had a fdr of 13.0:1 and weighs 1.25lbs less than the slayer. I figured the slayer with its added weight and drive train friction I would have to shoot for a much lower gearing. This is why I started out w/ a fdr of 20:1. With the stats above my fdr is 12.6:1 and the motor actually runs cooler than in the slash.

    The only thing I can think to attribute this to is the use of the mechanical brake. Not braking w/ the motor must significantly reduce the work the motor/esc must do which allows the motor to run cooler and more efficiently. The only downside is the shorten runtime, I managed only 20 mins out of the battery. Granted 40mins I got bored but 20 is a bit too short, I would really like 30mins.

    I'm a bit intrigued by these motors and I sort of like the idea of trying a hotter motor, maybe a 7200kv, and go back to a 20:1 fdr. I might do this some day. But for now I'm going to try and shed 8oz to get close to 28mph and a little longer runtime.

  32. #32
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    I do not think I would ever convert mine I was just woundering if there is a considerable waight saving converting to electric to lower center of gravity and make it more less top heavy.

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    As you can see I'm running at 7.0lbs and the stock slayer w/o receiver batteries and fuel is 7.5lbs. I hope to drill out the chassis and find other areas to remove weight to get down to 6.5lbs. 1lbs could be considered significant.

  34. #34
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    Me again doing things without thinking. Stuck a 68T spur in a 12t pinion with the novak 4.5T, used the tranny locked into 2nd and oh boy the car was doing wheelies on pretty much any surface. The gps clocked it about 48mph and then 15mins later nothing, the spur spins but the is no drive to the wheels. Looking into the little hole on the tranny from what I can see it looks fine but need to open it up to know for sure.
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  35. #35
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    That's amazing. So you had > 5:1 w/ your pinion:spur. I had 4:1, but I was using the narrow gear set but I still think you had a lower overall fdr than 19:1. So after 15mins was the motor or esc cooking or did it seem like it was within operating temp range? I'm sorry to hear it stopped working but I'm impressed you got 15mins out of it. What battery are you using? You are definitely giving me hope to try the 6.5 novak ballistic. Also, I can't imagine that thing doing wheelies, that's awesome.

  36. #36
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    looks good just get it brushless

  37. #37
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    im using a few different battary setups 2x 2s 4900 25c, 3s 3700 3c and some others 4s-6s on the 2200kv
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  38. #38
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    y do ppl convert 2speed nitro trucks into single electrics...my questions isant on y to convert them i love converting but its why lock second gear it give the truck better accl and top speed...i would also look at getting a different motor for 1/8th scale like a fiego or what not....NICE TRUCK....ive never seen a used truck look that nice
    if its fast its a rustler

  39. #39
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    I like to keep the truck in 2 speed setup and have one tranny like that and one locked to 2nd gear just to see the difference but havent noticed much reason people here lock 2nd gear is for reverse and you can strip your gears for the power of brushless i havent had this issue yet
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  40. #40
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    I had mine with the 2 speed in it and everytime it would kick into 2nd it would spin the truck out on the track and I was stripping the gears out of it(did it twice). You really don't need 2 speeds with an electric motor cause its either going to kick into 2nd really fast or really late depending on how you have it set up but 1st was there for the nitro motor to get up to speed so that it didn't die everytime you got on the throttle.
    E-Slayer-MMM 2200kv

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