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  1. #1
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    New 2 RC: Thoughts/Questions about the direction I want to take my EREVO...

    Alright, so here's the deal: I've had my E-Revo for just over two & half weeks (first real RC, everything else has been target type stuff just to drive/pass time). I've been looking at a bunch of Online Hobby Shops and this forum to try and get the lay of the land, and I've got some general questions and some thoughts about where I want to take my truck in the future.... Here it goes.

    To start, the stock suspension was soft and icky so I replaced the stock springs with silver front/blue back (non-LT). that was better, but where I'm able to drive rough asphalt is primary surface (some dirt, like 70/30) and that still seemed a little sloppy, so I got Traxxas P3 rockers and the Traxxas Aluminum Pushrods (dropped down): Seems better, though now I think I need the LT Silver/Blues that came in the box. Now I'm trying to trim down the turning radius, got Tekno RC sways on the way.

    Coming with the sways are the aluminum rocker posts, to drop a smidge of weight.

    So that's where the truck is today. I'm running 6 & 7 cell NiMH batt's 2K & 3K Milliamp respectively. No wheelies, but the truck is set up pretty low...

    1) My immediate suspension questions is this: even with the tougher springs and P3 rockers the front to back weight transfer is still pretty severe, what else can I do to keep as much weight as I can on the front wheels on launch, and keep as much as I can on the rear when not on the gas?

    2) Can I use disk brakes instead of the motors to brake on an electric? If so I'm thinking of a 4 channel 2.4gHz Futaba. Not sure... and throwing the 2-speed transmission in there... Thoughts?

    3) For the power plants, I like the idea of the two motor set up, but want more top end, quick top end would be preferred... Is there a good dual Brushless out there? Or a really stellar dual Brushed setup?

    4) Then as far as rubber goes... The Talons are pretty awesome, but I'd like to find an Anaconda type set up. The idea of a rounded tire is appealing, seems like if it gets on two wheels, mid-turn, it will hold its own a little better. Though I am drawn to the Pro Line Road Rage, those look awesome for on-road...

    5) I've read mentions on the forum of wider wheel base A-arms, who makes these and are they a good investment?

    I realize for a first post this may have been to much, but I'd appreciate any help. I got the truck to keep me busy when I get home from work, and as you can tell, I may be putting some $$ into it, so this is kind of a long term quest. It may change, it may not. But as of two and a half weeks this where I want it to go.

    Again, thank you for any incite, thoughts, opinions you may have.

  2. #2
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    I can only say anything useful about 3 and 5.

    3) You have a few options:
    Brushed:
    - Traxxas Titan 775 (single) - http://www.traxxas.com/products/acce...s_titan775.htm

    - Dewalt/Ryobi drill motors (single) - There are endless posts on this forum re: these two

    - Kershaw 700HO or 970 motors (single or double) - http://204.186.93.64/E-Revo-700-HOConversion.htm

    The debate continues to rage over which of these is the best. I got a single 700-HO which is better than the titans, but I can't say how it stacks up against the others.

    Brushless:
    - Novak HV pro series (single) - http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...ems/index.html

    - Mamba Monster / Neu2200 combo (single) - http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...a_monster.html

    - V-twin (2x TRX VXL motor, 2x TRX VXL ESC) - (more complicated, more expensive and less powerful than the two above)

    The general consensus (to my knowledge) is that the CC Mamba Monster is the best, though I've seen plenty of happy Novak owners. The dual VXL was popular before the others were available.

    5) I think you're thinking of the extended wheelbase rear arms:
    http://www.traxxas.com/support/kb_se...ighlight=5333R
    They make the wheelbase longer, but don't affect the width. Longer wheelbase is better for high-speed stability, and is popular for racing.

    if you want greater width, try the Kershaw arm extenders:
    http://204.186.93.64/E-Revo-WideningKit.htm
    Last edited by tetracanth; 04-28-2009 at 01:38 PM.
    RoboPede: http://snowtiresrobot.blogspot.com/

  3. #3
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    I dont think i can answer any of your questions but i do suggest you read the FAQ word for word. Yea its long and might kinda bite to read all of it, but that thing is filled with more information than a dictionary ( lol ). It might help you answer your questions AS WELL as help you answer some other questions you might have had.
    E-revo for sale. PM me for more info.

  4. #4
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    The FAQ, was very helpful, read it last week. It answered quite a few things and gave me the wherewithal to put other questions into non-fragmented thoughts. Though I do need to go through it again. It is a monster.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by tetracanth
    If you know: Why can't you double this up? From the incomplete specs on Towerhobby.com they appear to be similar in size... If this is terribly apparent in someway I apologize for being un-learned. I'm doing the best I can...

    Quote Originally Posted by tetracanth
    - Kershaw 700HO or 970 motors (single or double) - http://204.186.93.64/E-Revo-700-HOConversion.htm
    Again, if you know: what are the differences in these motors? One is a bigger model number but smaller price and vice-versa? And, is there a benefit mounting both motors behind the spur instead of in front and behind? I would think keeping some of the weight in front of the tranny would help in weight distribution. Again, please forgive any obvious ignorance... thank you for you input, greatly appreciated.

  6. #6
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    One thing to consider for your speed and quickness is getting new batteries. The nimh that you have are pretty weak. Trust me, a good set of batteries make all the difference in the world.

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. asheck's Avatar
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    Yes, first is good batteries, with plans on upgrading to brushless, so get something real good, preferably lipos. The suspension of the E-revo is not like standard MT's. You will get alot of action, but thats the suspension doing it's job, the way it was designed to do it. If you try to get it to react like normal suspension, then you take it out of it's design element. What are you looking for with disc brakes ? When you upgrade to brushless , you will have much more control of your braking. You can also do this with a good radio.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by asheck
    What are you looking for with disc brakes ?
    If it is possible, I would like to figure out how to get the stopping power away from the motor/s. As it stands, if I let off on the throttle the truck shifts to far forward, causing the truck to brake. I'd prefer that it coast more and stop less when the throttle is reduced. So if the gearing were possible, I'd be able to do this with disc brakes, I think. Like I mentioned though, I've been looking at everything, not really knowing the relevance to my truck (or possibly electric). Which is what brought me here.

    As it is the truck has fantastic stopping power. Like on a dime. It's way better than I would've expected based on the weight.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. asheck's Avatar
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    Yeah, what you are seeing is the drag brake effect, caused by the motor magnets. Just getting disc brakes would not solve this, as you would have to "unlock" the tranny. Possibly run an electri-clutch, but you'd be getting into mass work. All brushed motors will do this. There are different brushless motors that do not have this effect,like Fiegos, but almost all of them do to.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by asheck
    There are different brushless motors that do not have this effect,like Fiegos, but almost all of them do to.
    Would the Fiego 8L, be one that you are referring to? That motor caught my eye, when looking at the Kershaw Designs motor chart.

    I was unable to find any size specs on it though. But based on what was there It seemed I could run it with little mod, is that true? Also, could I run two of them? Or are they just too **** big?

    Again, thanks for the info.

    And how would I unlock the tranny? that sounds interesting, like later in the game interesting, but interesting nonetheless.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. asheck's Avatar
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    You would really need a XL motor, but the fact that they have little drag to them is the only good thing about them. I'm not really sure that you could unlock the tranny. In a nitro tranny you lock the tranny so that you can use the motor as brakes and reverse. But that is a totally different design.
    IMO what you really need to do is get lipos . Then a good radio. Drive it till you fry your motors, Then decide how much you want to spend, or how fast you want to go. Then get the MMM combo . ENJOY
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  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    You can set the ESC to have zero drag-brakes and zero true brakes, then use mechanical brakes via servos.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revoš
    You can set the ESC to have zero drag-brakes and zero true brakes, then use mechanical brakes via servos.
    Can I do that with the EVX-2? And where would I look to find out how to do that?

    In your opinion is there any benefit to doing this? It seems to me, yes there would be, but that doesn't mean that there is.

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I don't think you can set the EVX2 that way.

    Well, running mechanical brakes takes the stress from braking off of the pinion and spur and puts it on the driveline, which is better equipped to handle it...but, it is a much more complicated setup, and if you want reverse, you have to use the mechanical reverse in the transmission and a shifting servo.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revoš
    I don't think you can set the EVX2 that way.
    Assuming I were to stay brushed, what are my options/places to look?

    Quote Originally Posted by Revoš
    Well, running mechanical brakes takes the stress from braking off of the pinion and spur and puts it on the driveline, which is better equipped to handle it...
    That is what I thought, and the reason I wanted to look into a seperate braking mechanism.

    Quote Originally Posted by Revoš
    ...but, it is a much more complicated setup, and if you want reverse, you have to use the mechanical reverse in the transmission and a shifting servo.
    Can you point me in the direction of where I would look to find out the degree of "much more complicated" you mean? This is all stuff that is going to be happening over the course of the next 6-12 months, so I have time to figure it out.

    What is a good radio option? I know of the Futaba Fasst and the Spektrum, are there others I should consider or are these best of breed in the 4 channel pistol configuration?

  16. #16
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    My opinion is that the small benefit of having mechanical brakes doesn't weigh up to the difficulty and money, not at all.

    I really see no big advantage to having mech brakes over braking on the motor.
    I also haven't heard of anyone else doing this.

    Ofcourse feel free to do it

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I don't even think the E-Revo transmission is capable of having mechanical reverse added to it, so you will have to run a different transmission, like a nitro Revo transmission or a nitro T-Maxx transmission...and since neither have motor-mounts made to fit on them, you will need to custom-make a motor-mount for the E-Revo chassis or just switch over to a nitro Revo chassis and run a RC-Monster or Tekno motor-mount.

    Also, the E-Revo transmission can not have mechanical brakes added to it, so you would need to do a TON (and I mean a ton) of fabrication/modification to custom-make a mechanical brake setupand a place to put it. Again, the nitro Revo and nitro T-Maxx transmissions are both setup to run mechanical brakes, so you will need one of those and the nitro Revo chassis.

    My personal opinion, if you REALLY want mechanical brakes and transmission reverse, you will need to convert your E-Revo into a nitro Revo with electric/brushless conversion. But to be honest, just leave your E-Revo alone and run brakes and reverse via the motor...the stock spur and pinion is more than capable of handling this, since Traxxas designed it to do so.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  18. #18
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    I had a brushed erevo for a while. Though I'm just the opposite of you, I need to use the drag brake on my MMM so I don't coast into things.....trees...garage doors....poles.....people

  19. #19
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    1st broken part....

    So the other night I was changing my suspension setup, re-centering my steering servos (trying to) and cleaning my truck when I noticed a huge crack in my Front bulkhead, after removing it, this is what mostly fell out of my front end.


    I realize this is not big news, what I thought was noteworthy though, was that I'm pretty sure I've been driving the truck like that for the majority of the time I've owned it. And with no noticeable impact on performance. That's pretty cool, I thought.

    That being said, the suspension changes I made seemed to really bring the truck alive. I adjusted the Preload, lowered it, and moved the rear pushrods into the middle (LT position, I think).
    Quote Originally Posted by asheck
    You will get alot of action, but thats the suspension doing it's job, the way it was designed to do it.
    I figured I could maybe try and use the suspension action to my advantage and it seemed to work, the front end didn't really pull because the back end dropped to about level under full throttle. Appreciate the incite asheck. First test (still with broken bulkhead), seemed to be increased launch speed, though a little less stable while cornering.

    After that test drive yesterday, I was able to install the new bulkhead (yeah local shops) and the parts I ordered last week (yeah online shops). Those parts being Tekno RC sway bars and Aluminum Rocker posts. Also, when I was putting the front end back together I put the upper a-arm in the lower bulkhead position.

    First impression, in a polished concrete garage, definitely had severely reduced body roll. Maybe to much, but I won't know until I get it on a surface with more traction, because the back end would stall to swing around and would then whip around causing the truck to spin on the concrete. Definitely may be a surface issue. Depending on what happens I may pull them off the front and leave them in the back, we'll see.

    This brings me to my questions:

    My steering trim, which appeared to be fine in my pre-bulkhead replacement test, is now FUBAR again.

    Should I have fully re-centered the steering servos after ripping the front end apart? Or, could it be a poorly tuned sway bar setup? Or both.

    Appreciate all the help so far.
    Last edited by XENObrine; 04-30-2009 at 12:04 PM.

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Swaybars do not affect steering trim, so you just didn't get your servo horns centered properly...

    Remove your horns, center the trim on your radio, turn on the truck...straighten the wheels by hand, and then mount the horns back onto the servo while keeping the steering held straight. This is a properly centered steering system. The trim is for very tiny adjustments, not for recentering.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  21. #21
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    That's what I did the other night, probably just messed it up again when I redid the front end.

    Thanks.

  22. #22
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    I forgot to as in my initial post:

    Who makes some really good bearings for this monster?

    And,

    As far as tubed Roll Cages go, is the Hard Body'z cage the only option?

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    For non-ceramic bearings, go with Avid RC's Revolutions...they are $1 each! (www.avidrc.com)
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

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