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  1. #1
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    A few pictures of my 12volt DeWalt install

    Hey guys heres a few pictures of my DeWalt motor installed in my E-Revo.
    I used the Traxxas single motor plate and their gear cover. I also made a few spacers for the motor. I still need to test it out, Im using a 20t pinion, stock spur.
    ~Gage~




    Last edited by Gage2502; 03-19-2009 at 06:31 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gage2502
    Hey guys heres a few pictures of my DeWalt motor installed in my E-Revo.
    I used the Traxxas single motor plate and their gear cover. I also made a few spacers for the motor.
    linky no worky
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  3. #3
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    yes now I see it
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  4. #4
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    gage2502
    do you have any closeup pix of the spacers? I used washers, 3 washers per side, between the motor and the mounting plate, moved the pinion gear into the proper alignment.
    also wondering about how you soldered your capacitors on, be great if you could post a cpl close ups of both those, haven't seen anyone else with that shot.

    are you running the stock radio, or aftermarket? just noticing your antennae mod, wondering if that works with the stock setup?

    to anyone running the dewalt motor with stock controller, are you getting any issues with range? I'm finding it's glitching at a block away right now, figure I should have better range than that.
    I connected the 3 capacitors, one from one terminal to the can, and the third from the pos to neg terminal. Each are connected well, is this just a range issue with the stock controller, or is there some other issue at play?

    i've posted a few pix of my install, appreciate any advice.









    Last edited by taken; 03-19-2009 at 11:14 PM.

  5. #5
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    That's a clean installation. I purchased Dewalt motor also from Sears. Just waiting for my pinion gear.

  6. #6
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    taken... i'm wondering... isn't that dangerous for your 3rd cap (last pic) to have it's legs exposded? if the legs tap the motor can you can get a short.

  7. #7
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    I like your set up, its sweet. Later I will post my twin 970s from Kershaw. I had to use 12AWG instead of 14AWG as the wires melt over time.
    Last edited by Ray00Ray; 03-20-2009 at 01:28 PM.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff_o
    taken... i'm wondering... isn't that dangerous for your 3rd cap (last pic) to have it's legs exposded? if the legs tap the motor can you can get a short.
    No, it's fine...these capacitors don't carry through-voltage, they suppress noise, so there can't be a short.

    The 3 caps are connected as follows:
    [1] Positive terminal to motor can
    [2] Negative terminal to motor can
    [3] Positive terminal to Negative terminal

    So, as you can see, both terminals are already connected to the motor can, so one of the cap's legs touching the can doesn't matter, and is perfectly safe.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  9. #9
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    Heres a few more pictures of my install, I used an 1/4" piece of Plexiglas for the spacer and I used a hole saw to cut it the same size of the motor can.
    Thanks for looking. Let me know if anyone needs any help with this. ~Gage~


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  10. #10
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    Why did you have to make that spacer? Could you not have just moved the pinion back on the shaft a little bit?
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  11. #11
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    The pinion will not line up with the spur without a spacer.
    ~Gage~
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  12. #12
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    Wow that thing must weigh a ton!! Looks good though. Look forward to seing how it performs.

  13. #13
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    You're not using one of those long-shank pinions, are you? if so, just get a standard-length pinion and get rid of that spacer....or just flip the pinion you have around, and slide it on the motor-shaft gear first, not shank first.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  14. #14
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    Hey Gage2502, thanks for sharing.

    How much (total and breakdown per item) did you end up spending for this mod?? Does it perform better than the stock motors?? Does it add weight??

    Thanks

  15. #15
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    revo1
    the shaft is too short to mount the pinion gear, tooth in, the set screw is past the end. have to mount it tooth out, which then leaves it too far out to line up properly.

    rod1gram
    it is actually slightly less weight i believe, the motor is less than the 2 titans.
    total cost is about $40 when you figure the new pinion gear and spur.
    motor is about $25, pinion gear $13, and spur gear about $3. you'll need 3 capacitors, if you've got a decent hobbyshop it should be free, at least with mine they were. that's all you need, the rest is just modding the existing pieces. little bit of labour and you're all set :-)
    there is a definite performance increase over stock, no question. my disappointment comes in that it wasn't quite as much as I was hearing some of the other guys saying it was. I'm guessing they were running 7cell, or lipo, and that gave them the bigger boost. even as is, it's def worth it. cheap power, it'll get me through till i can get my BL setup.

    gage2502
    what batts are you running? im using 6 cell packs right now, a good bit more torque, but i'm not seeing any major wheelies. running 19t pinion and 62t spur.
    howz the increase in power over stock at your end.
    love the spacer by the way, i'll have to do up one of those myself. looks better than what i've got, and prob easier to work with when switching pinions.
    Last edited by taken; 03-21-2009 at 12:40 AM.

  16. #16
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    gage2502
    how are you cleaning your truck, it's bloody spotless. granted, my photo's were taken after a good run on a rainy road, but yours looks like it's new.
    pretty much all i've ever done is to just give it a good hit with the hose when i get back from a muddy run.

    thanx

  17. #17
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    The batteries im using are really old their 6-cells and I think 3000Mah.
    OK how do I keep my Revo so clean, don't laugh but I never ran it since I got it in November 2008.
    ~Gage~
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  18. #18
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    I forgot about the antenna mod I did, right now im using a Futaba AM radio and stock receiver, the antenna mod im going to test out on it dont know if its going to work. On my Clod im using the same antenna mod with the Futaba AM radio and it works great. Someday I would like to get the Futaba 2.4 GHz radio system for my trucks but dont have funds for that right now.
    Thanks for looking at my pictures. ~Gage~
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by taken
    revo1
    the shaft is too short to mount the pinion gear, tooth in, the set screw is past the end. have to mount it tooth out, which then leaves it too far out to line up properly.

    rod1gram
    it is actually slightly less weight i believe, the motor is less than the 2 titans.
    total cost is about $40 when you figure the new pinion gear and spur.
    motor is about $25, pinion gear $13, and spur gear about $3. you'll need 3 capacitors, if you've got a decent hobbyshop it should be free, at least with mine they were. that's all you need, the rest is just modding the existing pieces. little bit of labour and you're all set :-)
    there is a definite performance increase over stock, no question. my disappointment comes in that it wasn't quite as much as I was hearing some of the other guys saying it was. I'm guessing they were running 7cell, or lipo, and that gave them the bigger boost. even as is, it's def worth it. cheap power, it'll get me through till i can get my BL setup.

    gage2502
    what batts are you running? im using 6 cell packs right now, a good bit more torque, but i'm not seeing any major wheelies. running 19t pinion and 62t spur.
    howz the increase in power over stock at your end.
    love the spacer by the way, i'll have to do up one of those myself. looks better than what i've got, and prob easier to work with when switching pinions.
    If I were to make this conversion, will I still be able to maintain the ability to run through water, snow, mud, and a lot deeper water??

    That's the reason I refuse to change my stock set-up. I don't want to lose the ALL-Terraign vehicle aspect.

    Thanks again.

  20. #20
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    Yes, you can still go through everything the stock setup was capable of and more. The dewalt motor is actually much more durable than the stock motors and will last longer no matter how much abuse you throw at it.

    Hope this helps.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by HobbyGuy321
    Yes, you can still go through everything the stock setup was capable of and more. The dewalt motor is actually much more durable than the stock motors and will last longer no matter how much abuse you throw at it.

    Hope this helps.
    What about the battery set-up on this?? When ppl install the dewalt motor, what type of battery is recommended?? Still 2 batteries needed??

  22. #22
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    run the same batts you were using on the stock motor setup. the electrics are the same, just being pushed into one motor, not two.
    the better the batts, the higher the voltage, the better the performance you'll see from the motor, but that'll also apply to the titans as well.
    i'm running 6 cell packs, but i'd like to upgrade to some lipos, or at least 7 cell packs to really get the most out of the motor.

  23. #23
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    Yes you still use two batteries for this set-up I too would like to get better batteries as the ones im using now are about 3 years old.
    ~Gage~
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gage2502
    Yes you still use two batteries for this set-up I too would like to get better batteries as the ones im using now are about 3 years old.
    ~Gage~
    Yeah ... I'm running two 7 cells (4600 mah). Here's a couple more questions:

    1) I went to Sears today looking for the DeWalt motor and they didn't have it. Do I have to order on-line??

    2) Did you say you used plexi-glass for the spacers?? If so, how did you cut it?? I've got a dremmel but that's all I have at this point.

  25. #25
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    I ordered mine online here:
    Motor
    http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...ken=&pop=flush

    replacement brushes-order two of these to make a set
    http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...ken=&pop=flush

    You do not need a spacer if you buy an rrp pinion.
    pinion
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXVCX5&P=ML

    Hope this helps.

  26. #26
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    I ordered the DeWalt on-line, and im using the same rrp pinion and still needed the spacer.
    ~Gage~
    E-Revo E-Maxx Stampede Slash Amsoil=)

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gage2502
    I ordered the DeWalt on-line, and im using the same rrp pinion and still needed the spacer.
    ~Gage~
    Did you say you used plexi-glass for the spacers?? What type of plexi-glass?? If so, how did you cut it?? I've got a dremmel but that's all I have at this point.

    Sorry for all the questions, but I want to get all the right parts and materials.

    Thanks. Everyone has been very helpful in answering questions.

  28. #28
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    hobbyguy, do you have a close up pic of the motor bolted to the finned motor mount? just curious what it looks like, i can't visualize what it looks like on, or how it is different enough from what i've got to work without a spacer.

  29. #29
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    Here are some pics:



    The only reason I do not like using a spacer is because it does not transfer heat as well into the cooling fins/motor mount and just adds more weight to the truck.

    Hope this helps.

  30. #30
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    thanx.

    i'll have to try and order one of those pinions in, looks way better than what I'm using now. it's irritating now because the set screw is under the mounting plate, have to pullout my spacers to get to the set screw to make any adjustments.
    the rrp pinion must be a good bit shorter than the the other brands I guess to allow that.

  31. #31
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    Ok Im going to try again and not use a spacer, I am using the RRP pinion.
    I dont know what im doing wrong.
    ~Gage~
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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gage2502
    Ok Im going to try again and not use a spacer, I am using the RRP pinion.
    I dont know what im doing wrong.
    ~Gage~
    Be sure to let us know your findings ... as I've just ordered the DeWalt Motor.

    Thanks

  33. #33
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    I did the Dewalt motor and WOW it is awesome!

    On the spacer issue, I used a piece of aluminum , not much weight and transfers heat. My piece was a little shy of what is needed, but I just made a groove in the mounting plate with a Dremel for allen wrench clearence.

    I used a 19t pinion with the stock spur, lots of torque and faster than stock, but now my 1st gear is useless. I am going to try another pinion to get some more speed, and save some axles, broke 2 so far.

  34. #34
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    wbillylee03-if you have the close ratio gearset installed, you can gear it 25/54 for shifting on the fly. It will give you a first gear equivalent to 19/68 and the 25/54 second gear for high speeds. I am glad you like the motor, I have gone through two rear axles and two rear differentials since I first bought the motor. It seems to be fine since I replaced them though.

    Hope this helps.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by HobbyGuy321
    wbillylee03-if you have the close ratio gearset installed, you can gear it 25/54 for shifting on the fly. It will give you a first gear equivalent to 19/68 and the 25/54 second gear for high speeds. I am glad you like the motor, I have gone through two rear axles and two rear differentials since I first bought the motor. It seems to be fine since I replaced them though.

    Hope this helps.
    seriously? it's busting up your axles? I don't think i"ve got that kind'a torque coming from my setup. got the wheely thing working with the 19/68 setup, but everything else is all good. the only issue I had was I stripped my motor mount screw, but I think that was due to the noes dive from 6ft, on pavement. fixed that up with a wood screw, that cut it's own threads deep into the aluminum, holding real good now.
    got a new mount coming next week, along with my 2 speed setup, can't wait ti get some speed runs out'a this baby. but I guess I'll get my LHS to order me in some replacement difs and axles, just incase.
    any word on the summit axles, they out yet?

  36. #36
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    Hobbguy321-Thanks for the info I will give that a try.

    taken-I should have mentioned I have the rear spool, that would have helped the axles break, but still it has a lot of torque.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by wbillylee03
    Hobbguy321-Thanks for the info I will give that a try.

    taken-I should have mentioned I have the rear spool, that would have helped the axles break, but still it has a lot of torque.
    Rear Spool? having seen that term pop up a few times, I figured I'd take a look into it. A quick google search helped me figure out what it does, and what it looks like, my real question now is; is it worth it?

    You say you were busting axles because of the rear spool, that's just because the there was no way for the one side to unload, too much torque snapped your axle?
    What is the advantage, apart from crawler style apps, or straight line drag racing?
    My understanding is that the purpose of the rear dif is to help slow the inside wheel so the outside wheel can help power the vehicle through the corner, wouldn't adding the rear spool mess up your cornering something bad as the inside wheel would be spinning like crazy, trying to straighten the truck out? This seems to be counter productive, especially in a monster truck, which already has a strong tendency to plow straight through a corner, without coming hard off the throttle.

    With my 1/8 nitro buggy I was told to add a thicker "oil(?)" to the difs, helped to limit slip, but still allowed it where needed. Is this not an option with the e-revo?

    I guess the only other option then is the summit's locking difs? Gives you the best of both worlds.

    Still learning, appreciate your thoughts

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by taken
    seriously? it's busting up your axles? I don't think i"ve got that kind'a torque coming from my setup. got the wheely thing working with the 19/68 setup, but everything else is all good. the only issue I had was I stripped my motor mount screw, but I think that was due to the noes dive from 6ft, on pavement. fixed that up with a wood screw, that cut it's own threads deep into the aluminum, holding real good now.
    got a new mount coming next week, along with my 2 speed setup, can't wait ti get some speed runs out'a this baby. but I guess I'll get my LHS to order me in some replacement difs and axles, just incase.
    any word on the summit axles, they out yet?
    My diffs and axles only broke when the motor was new and it had tons of torque. Now that the magnets have lost a little bit of their strength and I am running it outside, I have not had a problem. I hope I can promatch gets there first batch of 30c lipos in soon so I get some of those. I hope they do not decrease my top speed too much. I will probably order a 27tooth pinion off of Kershaw designs if it is not fast enough for me.

  39. #39
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    Rear Spool? having seen that term pop up a few times, I figured I'd take a look into it. A quick google search helped me figure out what it does, and what it looks like, my real question now is; is it worth it?

    You say you were busting axles because of the rear spool, that's just because the there was no way for the one side to unload, too much torque snapped your axle?
    What is the advantage, apart from crawler style apps, or straight line drag racing?
    My understanding is that the purpose of the rear dif is to help slow the inside wheel so the outside wheel can help power the vehicle through the corner, wouldn't adding the rear spool mess up your cornering something bad as the inside wheel would be spinning like crazy, trying to straighten the truck out? This seems to be counter productive, especially in a monster truck, which already has a strong tendency to plow straight through a corner, without coming hard off the throttle.

    With my 1/8 nitro buggy I was told to add a thicker "oil(?)" to the difs, helped to limit slip, but still allowed it where needed. Is this not an option with the e-revo?

    I guess the only other option then is the summit's locking difs? Gives you the best of both worlds.

    Still learning, appreciate your thoughts
    Taken,
    I run the spool, available from Traxxas, because all I do is bash no racing and most of it is done in our woods on the quad trails. The locked rear end just gives me more traction for the very rough areas.
    I broke my axles playing on the driveway doing wheelies, which doesn't mix well with a spool.
    You are right about the push going into turns, but bouncing down trails it's not a concern.

  40. #40
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    Today I tried to install the motor without any spacers and didnt work for me.
    I still need to use and 1/8" spacer, so im going to make one out of aluminum stock so I wont have any heat issues. Right now im just using the one I made out of plexi-glass.
    ~Gage~
    E-Revo E-Maxx Stampede Slash Amsoil=)

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