dewalt 12v motor

[taken]

well, just finished my install, thank you to hobbyguy and cwczx3 for their great writeups.
got the mount worked out a cpl days ago, then finished up the wiring and break in this evening.

i was pretty disappointed by the power of the motor, didn't really seem any dif than the stock setup.
bombed up and down my block, was wet out so my road rage tires weren't getting a lot of traction, but it was pretty clear that there'd be no wheelies even under better traction conditions.

after i burned through that set of batt packs, i thought to maybe try switching the wiring around, on the off chance that maybe I connected it wrong. I switched the neg lead for the other, things seem to have come to life.
still no wheelies, but i was spinning all 4 of my 40 series tires for a good bit down the street. crank the wheel and gun it, you've got a cpl of real quick doughnuts.

I know hobbyguy says to run one set of leads from the esc, but does it make a dif if you connected both to the same terminal of the motor?
what are you other guys out there with a single motor conversion running, and why?

I was hearing that 3 capacitors are needed, one from both terminals, to the can, and the 3rd connecting the two terminals.
I am wondering, why the 3rd capacitor? on the stock motors there are just the 2, what purpose does the 3rd serve.
I think i managed to connect it well, it's lying flat across he end bell, just barely fit, such a huge can.

I'm running 21t pinion, with the stock spur gear, but think i'll try it with the 62t spur tomorrow, see what that does for my speeds.

this is a killer mod, so worth it. its not brushless, but for the $40 I spent, I'm more than happy. I'm only running 6 cells, can't wait till I try this motor with some lipos, really see it come to life.

[Revo¹]

You need three capacitors on the motor, since there are three main places for noise to enter and leave the motor...

Area 1: between + terminal and can (capacitor here)
Area 2: between - terminal and can (capacitor here)
Area 3: between + and - terminals (capacitor here)

...that's why you need to have three capacitors installed on the motor.

[shadow21]

So i guess im not the only one disappointed with this mod... HOWEVER i didnt know about the third capacitor. I made a thread about this but nobody answered. My motor isnt getting the full voltage of both battery packs but im going to try the cap from lead to lead.

[Revo¹]

Ok, the capacitors have nothing to do with how much voltage gets to the motor, they are simply there to stop interference (motor noise) from glitching the receiver...adding capacitors WILL NOT make your motor more powerful.

[shadow21]

Ok sorry.. Im a newb when it comes to this stuff.. i usually build 1/1 cars lol.... I guess its just a lost cause... Im going brushless anyways.. But im gonna make my revo allll purrrrdy while im waiting on the funds.

[Revo¹]

No problem, I was just letting you know!

[jeff_o]

lipo is the way to go man! i just did a test run with my dewalt and 2s2p lipo... i felt i was running brushless.

[countyemaxx]

Which wire did you guys use to connect to the motor? Does it matter which one? Facing forward, left motor or right motor?

[countyemaxx]

lipo is the way to go man! i just did a test run with my dewalt and 2s2p lipo... i felt i was running brushless.

What pinion size gear are you using?

[afterdarkgames]

Traxxas runs both sets of wires to the motor on the Summit for a reason, red together and black together. You will get a little more power to the motor by having two gardenhoses attached as opposed to 1.
I say garden hose because that is about all they are compared to the fire hoses that are attached to the brushless systems. If someone tells you size dosent matter they are full of it (at least when it comes to wires)

Question:
Would you put the same wire that is on the lights in your real car as you would for your starter?

Same reason you dont take a garden hose to a 3 alarm fire.

[Gage2502]

I would combine the two RED and two BLACK wires and then connect them to the motor. Heres the way I did mine.


~Gage~

[taken]

i started with single, then rewired it for the dbl in, better.

I'm running 21t pinion, 68t spur. on 6 cell, no problem, hard runs, still not too hot. i'm going to try 62t spur to see if i can't get a bit more speed.
just bought a 19t pinion, running it with 62t spur, a little bit more torque, but not enough wheely power needs more juice, need lipo i think.

[HobbyGuy321]

Taken-What batteries are you using?

You should not need lipo to do wheelies, mine will flip onto its back from a dead stop and wheelie from a roll with 14-cell nimh. I am using ib 4600's and ener-g 4600's.

My first gear ratio would be equivalent to 19/68, but when I was running 20/68 and the single speed transmission it would do wheelies just as easily. It is probably because of low quality batteries and construction. You should get lipo or a higher quality nimh battery constructed in a side x side config. Balancing your nimh batteries will also give them more power and run time.

Hope this helps.

[taken]

how do I balance my batteries? ive got 3 sets, 2 sets 3800 enrich, 1 set 5000 elite. they are end to end construction, can i redo them? what dif does it make, side by side or end to end?
my charger is the x-charger b6, says lixx balancing charger. total n00b, no idea what any of this means.
you're running a 2speed tranny now? is this a mod to the stock unit, or a new tranny? which one would be good, i was thinking of 2speed?

[jeff_o]

county... i'm using 18-68 gearing... lotsa torque because of the dewalt and gearing. i think i can go down 64 or 60 but now i'm sticking to 68 for a few more runs before i really strain the motor

the only problem i'm having right now is interference and glitching. imagine when you touch the motor or heatsink of the ESC, the car jolts. sometimes you touch the xmitter antenna and the car jolts too. i already have 3 caps to the motor.. i dunno what can i do next... probly ferrite rings.

[taken]

weird, when is the glitching? i find that i'm having range issues, gets a little glitching when I'm a block away, but that could just be the poor range on the stock radio.

[HobbyGuy321]

taken- It probably is your batteries, I also have 13-cell elite 5000's and they will not wheelie and make the truck feel sluggish. Side x Side construction lets energy flow through the pack faster and with less resistance. If your batteries are already built in a shotgun config, I would not worry about redoing them.

For your next set of batteries I would recommend these. They will give you the punch you need.
http://www.promatchracing.com/proddetail.php?prod=7475

Balancing your packs equalizes the voltages of the individual cells in your pack. My balancer just takes each cell down to .9v. It is not really necessary for new matched packs, but once my batteries start getting hot I use it and it makes them run like new.

Yes, I am running a 2-speed now. It is geared 25/54 and goes at least 40mph. The motor seems to run just as cool and works great for shifting on the fly. It is just a mod to the stock unit. It was easy to install, but the kit did not include a washer so I had to find one myself. I would recommend this upgrade to anyone who wants to run a brushed motor or a lower powered brushless (novak 6.5 or similar).

I just completed my 103rd run on my new style dewalt today and it is still going strong.

Hope this helps.

[Gage2502]

Ya those are the same batteries I want to get.
Where do you get a balancer at?
Thanks ~Gage~

[HobbyGuy321]

You can get a balancer from tower hobbies. This is the one I use.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVFB4&P=7

It works alright, but I really have to monitor the batteries while using it.

This one would be a better choice.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXMXZ7&P=ML

It has an adjustable voltage cutoff which I would set for 1v. My funds were limited at the time I bought the discharger so I had to settle for the muchmore equalizer instead.

Hope this helps.

[taken]

so i need a separate balancer, my charger wont do it? it has the discharger function, is that different? I'll talk to my hobbyshop about the balancer, try to get my batts running as good as they can.

good rec on the batt's , nice price. Is it worth getting those however, why not go into a lipo setup? my charger does both, so I'm good there.

Is this the setup you were talking about for the 2 speed?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVDW8

need to upgrade my radio as well with this then. Is there not an autoshifting style tranny for the e-revo? i've seen them in other apps, it shifts at user set rpm levals, no need for the servo.
what's the pros and cons of this styled system?

[HobbyGuy321]

This is all you need for the 2-speed conversion.

One of these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTG62&P=ML

and one of these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVDW8&P=7

There is not an autoshifting tranny like the nitro's have because electric motors have too much torque and would just tear up the gears.

If you can go lipo you should. Lipo batteries last longer and have way more power. The only disadvantage if you decide to run 4s lipo's is they will not be quite as fast as 14-cell nimh. One member on this forum was running 5s lipos on the stock esc and dewalt motor and said it worked fine. 5s lipos would probably be the best choice for speed, power, and longevity.

Hope this helps.

[taken]

sweet, just ordered the 2 speed from my LHS, along with a new motor mount. stripped the threads on my modified stock mount, sux, i'm out for a cpl weeks now
I'm got the 3 channel, fm radio from my GS Storm Nitro buggy, not using it right now, figure that should do it for the third servo switch. just need to build a new radio box as the stock box on the revo wont fit the receiver from this unit.

[Revo¹]

Another option is to run the transmission out of a nitro Revo...it is fully automatic, so it doesn't require a shifting servo or a 3-channel radio. It automatically shifts into 2nd gear when the truck reaches a certain RPM, and also automatically shifts back down into 1st gear when the truck drops below that RPM...you can even adjust the shift-points to shift at a lower RPM (sooner) or a higher RPM (later).

The only thing is, though, no one currently makes a motor-mount plate that attaches to the nitro Revo transmission...you will have to make your own, or mount the motor some other way (most people just switch to a nitro Revo chassis and use the RC-Monster motor-mount or the Tekno motor-mount).

[taken]

revo1
are you running that in your brushless setup? Hobbyguy was saying that the autoshifting tranny from the nitro revo wouldn't handle the torque, that you'd chew up the gears.
i can see the manual shift kind better for bashing use, build yourself two separate uses for your truck, the auto shift would seem well suited to racing uses.

[jeff_o]

taken... it's glitching when i'm very close to the car... when the xmitter is very close to the car. someitmes you touch any electronic part of the car and it jolts. kinda frightened animal.

[Revo¹]

revo1
are you running that in your brushless setup? Hobbyguy was saying that the autoshifting tranny from the nitro revo wouldn't handle the torque, that you'd chew up the gears.
i can see the manual shift kind better for bashing use, build yourself two separate uses for your truck, the auto shift would seem well suited to racing uses.

Yes...I am using the nitro Revo automatic 2-speed transmission in my MMM/2200kV BL Revo, and I have also used it in my MMM/2650kV BL Super-G-Maxx, with no issues at all...but I did make a couple changes.

First; I removed reverse by installing the Traxxas FOC kit (forward-only conversion), which really strengthened up the transmission.

Second; The nitro Revo transmission comes stock with a hard-anodized, 7075-T6, aluminum output-shaft, so I replaced it with a hardened-steel output shaft for more strength.

Optional; There is a "pin mod" that you can do, which increases the size of the cross-pins, but I found that it really wasn't needed.

Anyway, with those 2 upgrades, you can run the nitro Revo 2-speed transmission behind a 4S or 6S BL system without any problems.

[HobbyGuy321]

wow, thats pretty cool. I always thought you had to lock out second gear with conversions.

How did you mount it onto the e-revo chassis?

[Revo¹]

I didn't...I use a nitro chassis, but both transmission mounting areas are very similar, so it should mount up just fine, at the very most maybe very slight modifications.

When you are using the E-Revo 2-speed conversion (manually shifted via a 3rd channel on your transmitter and a shifting servo on the truck), you don't have to lockout 1st gear, but it is highly recommended....mainly because 1st gear is useless with a BL (it's just too low-geared, and you will need to shift into 2nd after only a foot), and shifting a BL powered truck on the fly is all but impossible (the torque of the BL motor will just rip the shift-pawls out, or the pawls will tear the gears in half). Even the stock Titans, or a single Dewalt or other high-power motor, will do the same if you try to shift on the fly at normal speeds. You would have to come to a complete stop to shift gears, and that just doesn't sound lke a lot of fun to me.

I mean, it's up to the owner to do whatever they want, I am just trying to make sure everyone has all of the information they need to make an informed decision.

[taken]

Hobbyguy, are you using the manual shift when driving then, or do you have to stop to shift?
i guess it would work, do a really low gear for crawling and wheelies, and a high gear for speed runs. but it would be nice to be able to switch on the fly, use it as a true 2 speed, acceleration and top speed combined.
are you using the close ratio setup, or the wide ratio?


revo1, the issue with the shifting on the fly, is this from experience, or just logical deduction? I'd love to use an auto shifting tranny, but i'm not sure about swapping out my whole chassis to do it.
if i was to swap over to a revo 3.3 chassis, what further mods would I require to make my truck work? just wondering if it's just a matter of bolting all my existing components down to the 3.3 chassis, along with the 3.3 2 speed tranny, or is there more extensive mods required?

beyond the 2 speed tranny, is there any other benefit to going with the 3.3 chassis? strength, weight, functionality; pros and cons of the mod?

looked at the kershaw unit, but way too much money, not into spending that kind'a cash.
i'm looking to improve the drivability of the truck, but wanting to do it on more of a budget, would rather save the cash to invest into a new radio, lipos, and a brushless setup.

[HobbyGuy321]

I shift on the fly all the time, and it has held up for about 50 runs now. To do it, I accelerate to full throttle flip the switch, let off the throttle for not quite a second, and get right back on the throttle. I am using the close ratio gear set. I actually like it apposed to a nitro transmission because you can control when you want to shift. The top speed is amazing and when I hit second gear my badland tires balloon like crazy.

Hope this helps.

[Revo¹]

taken, while I was driving a friend's BL E-Maxx that had the 2-speed upgrade, the transmission literally turned into a grenade on the inside right when I shifted into 2nd...my friend told me that it was supposed to be ok to do, so I did! When I took the transmission apart for a look, one of the shift-pawls had sheared the pin it rides on in half, and the other pawl just tore through the 2nd gear like butter...there were small pieces of plastic, steel, and aluminum everywhere! If I am not mistaken, the E-Revo 2-speed is the same one that the E-Maxx 16.8 uses, so that's why I said what I said. What motor will you be running the 2-speed behind?

If you were to switch to a nitro chassis and a nitro transmission, all you really need is an electric motor-mount from either RC-Monster (you use a standard pinion) or Tekno RC (you have to use an extended long-shank pinion), and a battery tray to hold the batteries (I made mine, but you can get the Tekno one). Both motor-mounts are $45, but the RC-Monster one is MUCH better IMHO, and the Tekno battery tray is just $15. It's really an easy conversion to do.


HobbyGuy321, that's awesome...I am glad your 2-speed works well, and doesn't grenade when you shift, heh! Have you ever forgotten to let off the throttle before it shifts? If so, did it do any damage? Also, what motor are you running?

[HobbyGuy321]

Revo-actually I intentionally kept on the throttle a couple of times to test its' durability. It did not damage the transmission at all, but it just would not drop down into second until I let off the throttle. I am running the dewalt 12v and it was fine with up to 17-cells. If I nailed the throttle after shifting with 17-cells, it would just flip up onto its back from the torque. Overall, it has been a great upgrade for me.

Was your friend running the wide or close ratio gearing?

[Revo¹]

That's cool, man, seriously! I don't know which gear-set he was running, but it was most likely whatever comes stock.

[HobbyGuy321]

Thanks, Sorry to hear about your friends bad luck with it. I am pretty sure the e-maxx comes with the close ratio stock. Maybe they changed something about it from the 3906 e-maxx to the e-revo.

[taken]

cool, well i'll give it a try, see how it holds up. worst case, i get to see what a grenade looks like ;-)
i'll be running it behind the dewalt 12v motor as well, just got it up and running this week. looking forward to getting some wicked speed to go with my wheely fun :-)

[HobbyGuy321]

taken-make sure to pick up a 25t RRP pinion and a 54t spur gear to go with it. That should put you right around 40mph and will give you a 19/68 first gear for extra power. Oh, and make sure you use the close ratio gear set for shifting on the fly or your transmission definitely will turn into a grenade.

[taken]

does it automatically come with the close ratio gear set, or is that an option?

I just swapped my spur out to the 68t, with the 19t pinion, wheelies pretty well now. no running wheelies, but it'll get up there good off the start. figure once I get my batteries rebalanced it'll be popping up there no problem.
love the sound of 40mph, that should make for some fun

****, if it does that, i may just skip the brushless setup. got the speed and power, yet don't lose the waterproof aspect of the brushed truck. up here in Vancouver BC we get way too much rain to have to worry splashing through puddles.

keep you posted on the mods, thanx for everyones help.

[countyemaxx]

How did you guys get the spur cover back? Mine doesn't fit anymore after installing the dewalt motor. I couldn't screw it in anymore.

[eddie02ws6]

I would combine the two RED and two BLACK wires and then connect them to the motor. Heres the way I did mine.


~Gage~

Don't mean to be a digger, but....

Gage, I am really curious as to exactly how you wired the motor?
What gauge wire? What connectors, etc? Thank you