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  1. #241
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    Sweet

    Thanks for all the help, what would I be without you.

  2. #242
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    I'm done beating up clowns

    I got some stuff in the mail today, including these Jato shock boots that were suggested earlier in this thread by 8ight-e. I feel sorry for all the clowns I lured into dark alleys with multi colored marshmallows to take their balloons. I should have used these Jato shock boots from the beginning, they are perfect.

    It's been fun. See ya.

  3. #243
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    Nice mistercrash:-)

    PS Just like to let you know that Dan at Kershaw Designs is going to produce 3 aluminum slipper to me. In addition, he also has the new E-Revo HD Slipper Spring (he still has the old pic of it on he's site thought).

  4. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    I got some stuff in the mail today, including these Jato shock boots that were suggested earlier in this thread by 8ight-e.
    I put a set of those on this past weekend, but I had a heck of a time getting the spring retainers on - the edges of the openings where the shafts go through kept getting caught on the boot.

    Did you have any problems, or did they slide on for you?

    If yours went smoothly I was wondering if you could make a quick how-to (ideally video)...

  5. #245
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    do you have a link to these shock boots and i cant see your piks any more photo bucket mad at you
    drive like you own it .

  6. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by erevo_lover
    do you have a link to these shock boots and i cant see your piks any more photo bucket mad at you
    Part 5464 - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKMB5&P=7

  7. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-maxx Sweden
    Nice mistercrash:-)

    PS Just like to let you know that Dan at Kershaw Designs is going to produce 3 aluminum slipper to me. In addition, he also has the new E-Revo HD Slipper Spring (he still has the old pic of it on he's site thought).
    I know about the sliper springs, I have a set on order. He's going to make aluminum slipper pads eh!? Well that's just another company making some money out of my ideas. Maybe one day I will learn to be secretive and not share my ideas and stop trying to help people, maybe then will I have a little more money. Until then, I'll continue being a nice guy (nice = stupid sometimes)

    Maybe I'll get something out of it.... like a free Kershaw chassis wink wink nudge nudge. Gotta big race in two weeks, mistercrash on top of the podium displaying his ERBE with a Kershaw chassis, wouldn't that look good for Kershaw eh?
    Come on! Gimme somethin'
    It's been fun. See ya.

  8. #248
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    Dude, I would email Dan fo sho!
    I'm only at 92%..........

  9. #249
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    I write a lot of poetry, and I used to post it right after I wrote it for friends and others to read, until one of my poems got stolen and published by someone else who claimed he wrote it...it took me almost 2 years to finally prove that I wrote it, and the book it was published in now posts me as the author, not the JA that stole it.

    Anyway, now I Copyright all of my work, and will not post any of it publically until I have the Copyrights filed and legalized.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  10. #250
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    sup MC i was surfing the old threads on R-W and i came across this thread and the last time i saw it it only had 2 pages....now there is 7 lol. nice work.
    rite now im in the process of taking my old 3.3 and converting to an ERBE.

  11. #251
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    I know I am not the OP, but I did (and am still doing) a full-blown conversion from a nitro Revo 2.5 to a brushless Revo 3.3, using almost ALL of the best parts available (lots of titanium, 7075 aluminum, delrin, carbon-fiber, MMM/2200kV, etc.), and I custom-made a lot of carbon-fiber parts (except for the Vantage Racing CF chassis), including Battery tray, Rx tray, ESC tray, Accessories tray, motor-mount brace, and wing-stay brace...all using high-quality 2mm carbon-fiber.

    I started an RC website, www.RCExtremes.com, and I am going to write up a full and complete build-up on my conversion, with tons of pictures, full parts list, descriptions and explanations of any and all custom work or modifications I did, etc., etc., so please keep checking for that.

    I even have my very first Team Driver for when I start designing, developing, producing, and selling my custom RC parts, upgrades, & accessories! WooHooo!!!
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  12. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revoš

    I even have my very first Team Driver for when I start designing, developing, producing, and selling my custom RC parts, upgrades, & accessories! WooHooo!!!
    Thats me YAY

  13. #253
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    Not my intention to hurt you or making some money out of your ideas, I’m so sorry

    Mr mistercrash

    It was certainly not my intention to let someone take your ideas; I have tried to ask you via a private pm if you had the desire and time to produce the aluminum slipper to me . Since I received no reply I contacted Dan at Kershaw Designs and asked him if he could produce these for me.

    It is clear that you Mr. mistercrash should have all the creeds for your amazing efforts and findings, there is no doubt that.

    The point is that if I had asked metal manufacturers here in Sweden to produce these, I also had to pay him for the materials + his working time it has taken him to produce them.

    Now it was Dan who became my producer and he should also get paid for the materials + his working hours. Although if I would ask my neighbor to help me with this, he would of course also get paid in the same manner.

    It is not that Dan steals your ideas, he is just produces these in my mission as a custom part. I don’t think he will mass-produce these or try to making money out of your ideas futher on; he’s just helping me with these ones.

    So to clarify everything, it was never my intention or Dan intention to steal or hurt you. I’m so sorry mistercrash.

    Best Regards
    E-maxx Sweden

  14. #254
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    all right, it's all good, don't worry about it I make stuff in my garage to try to make my RCs better and stronger, I have been doing it for 20 years. It's a hobby, I enjoy it and I share whatever I do with others because it might help out someone. My post above was not meant to accuse anyone of stealing ideas or anything. I guess I was a bit too sarcastic or something. I am well aware that anything I post on the web becomes the property of everyone and that is fine by me. I tried to make parts and sell them before and I don't wish to do it again. So being that everything in this thread belongs to everybody, any individual or company can take whatever they want and make it for themselves or mass produce them for others if they wish. The main goal was to help out RC nerds like me with fixing their ERevos, if a company or whatever takes one of the ideas in here and mass produces it, it will help out hundreds if not thousands of RC nerds and that would be very good in my book. All they have to do is have the part numbers start with ''mc''

    Now let's get back to ERBE problems and how to solve them shall we.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  15. #255
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    Sweet, truly a gentleman has spoked

    You know it's so hard to understand sarcasm in the written word sometimes, especially when it is not even native language


    You have if possible gone even higher in my ranking of great guys, if that is possible.

    Yes, let us resume to solve problems with RC, promise to help with the small amout/quantity my brain manages to perform.

  16. #256
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    Receiver box

    We have a great receiver box on our ERBEs that is waterproof. But the MMM is not waterproof so we don't run our ERBEs in water because of that. So do we really need a water proof receiver box? Well it's nice to have I agree, one good reason to have it other than water would be dirt and dust can't get inside. I'm thinking of cutting off that portion of the box with the small cover where the wires go in. Then just gluing a piece of closed cell foam to block the opening and a couple slots in the foam for the wires to go in. The box would not be water proof anymore but it would dirt and dust proof, which is alright since I will never run my ERBE in water.
    What I'm hoping to achieve by doing this is by taking that portion of the receiver box off, I hope to get enough room for the motor to pivot far enough to be able to change pinions without removing it. Right now, it can't pivot far enough because it hits that part of the receiver box where the wires go in.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  17. #257
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    I modified my receiver box tonight, I am going to try it out.

    I sanded off the portion of the receiver box where the wires go in.



    I am now left with two large openings that I will block with a piece of closed cell foam glued to the box with CA glue.



    Here is the foam glued to the box to block those openings.



    A tiny hole in the foam for the receiver antenna to go through.



    And a small slot for the wires to go in the box. The foam wraps around the wires and will keep dirt and dust from coming inside the box. Here is just an extension wire to demonstrate.



    I can now pivot the motor far enough to change my pinion or spur gear without removing the motor completely.



    I know it's not much of a mod but I'm starting to struggle to find new stuff to put in this thread I just wanted to do it because it is going to make my life a little easier when I want to change my gearing.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  18. #258
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    I think that when you are on a mission to solve a problem and you'll see the paths that others do not see, it is what makes you a pure genius.

    Well done as usual

  19. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by killatomat0
    I put a set of those on this past weekend, but I had a heck of a time getting the spring retainers on - the edges of the openings where the shafts go through kept getting caught on the boot.

    Did you have any problems, or did they slide on for you?

    If yours went smoothly I was wondering if you could make a quick how-to (ideally video)...

    Install issue.. they work perfect been using them for a year now Make sure you install the included shock end as it has a rig to retain the top part and then the bottom just leave over the shock end a little and be gentle when you slide the spring retainer on so it doesn't tear the boot.

  20. #260
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    Thanks for answering that 8ight-e, I completely missed that post. Sorry about that killatomat0, I was not ignoring you.

    THERE IS GOOD NEWS FROM CASTLE CREATIONS!

    There is a new version of the software, version 3.13 with these new features:

    * Added ability to change the 'Auto-Lipo' cutoff voltages
    * Added ability to turn off the power-on reminder beep
    * Improved low speed operation, detects and escapes cogging better
    * Added ability to reverse motor direction by Castle Link software
    * Added Mamba Max Pro software
    * Bug fix: Rare instance where throttle was applied and controller would stay in idle
    * Bug fix: Audible power pulse in transition from throttle to drag brake


    My auto-lipo is now set at 3.2 volts. Alleluia!
    Last edited by mistercrash; 05-07-2009 at 10:42 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  21. #261
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    Lipo's are safe to 2.7v/cell, cut offs are typically at 3.0v for safety reasons if cells are out of balance etc.. but why would you do 3.2v cutoff? Just asking... Most manu's mAH spec is based on a draw from 4.20v down to 2.7v so depending on who sells the packs they will rate the cells slightly different to make up for this... example maxamps use to have an extra 200mAH on most of their packs and didn't count it for run time on the pack label. Most sellers don't do this and packs will hit LVC under the rated value for this reason... the higher the "C" rating the closer they make it to the mAH though (when pushed hard). Anyway adding .2 to the voltage cut off effectively reduces your run time by a minute or two and doesn't get you any extra safety.. I'd figure folks would be pushing it down to 2.8 2.9 per cell to squeeze out an extra minute, specially racers w/ high "c" packs.
    Last edited by 8ight-e; 05-07-2009 at 10:55 PM.

  22. #262
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    Because I can, because they are MY lipos and I take care of them. Look back at this whole thread, it's all about being overly cautious and trying to fix problems before they arise. ''Better safe than sorry'' should have been the title. Maybe I could live with 3.1 volts per cell, but I won't bring my lipos down to 3 volts per cell repeatedly because that is just the way I am.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 05-07-2009 at 11:02 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  23. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    Because I can, because they are MY lipos and I take care of them. Look back at this whole thread, it's all about being overly cautious and trying to fix problems before they arise. ''Better safe than sorry'' should have been the title. Maybe I could live with 3.1 volts per cell, but I won't bring my lipos down to 3 volts per cell repeatedly because that is just the way I am.

    Good enough You've done very well w/ your build.. At any rate, this is a very good thread for newbs too; read this right after the faq! STICKY pls

  24. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8ight-e
    Lipo's are safe to 2.7v/cell, cut offs are typically at 3.0v for safety reasons if cells are out of balance etc.. but why would you do 3.2v cutoff? Just asking... Most manu's mAH spec is based on a draw from 4.20v down to 2.7v so depending on who sells the packs they will rate the cells slightly different to make up for this... example maxamps use to have an extra 200mAH on most of their packs and didn't count it for run time on the pack label. Most sellers don't do this and packs will hit LVC under the rated value for this reason... the higher the "C" rating the closer they make it to the mAH though (when pushed hard). Anyway adding .2 to the voltage cut off effectively reduces your run time by a minute or two and doesn't get you any extra safety.. I'd figure folks would be pushing it down to 2.8 2.9 per cell to squeeze out an extra minute, specially racers w/ high "c" packs.
    Are you sure about this? I said it before I wasn't a lipo expert. Maybe I can try to run them down to 3 volts but if one of my lipos puff it will be your fault
    It's been fun. See ya.

  25. #265
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    Thanks for answering that 8ight-e, I completely missed that post. Sorry about that killatomat0, I was not ignoring you.

    THERE IS GOOD NEWS FROM CASTLE CREATIONS!

    There is a new version of the software, version 3.13 with these new features:

    * Added ability to change the 'Auto-Lipo' cutoff voltages
    * Added ability to turn off the power-on reminder beep
    * Improved low speed operation, detects and escapes cogging better
    * Added ability to reverse motor direction by Castle Link software
    * Added Mamba Max Pro software
    * Bug fix: Rare instance where throttle was applied and controller would stay in idle
    * Bug fix: Audible power pulse in transition from throttle to drag brake


    My auto-lipo is now set at 3.2 volts. Alleluia!

    HI!... COOL! It's about time!!!!!
    Last edited by THE H.P FREAK; 05-07-2009 at 11:57 PM.
    53 Tamiya
    4 Traxxas
    1 Losi
    1 Kyosho
    17 AE

  26. #266
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    Screws

    The last of the aluminum and titanium screws I ordered came in today so I replaced some steel screws with either aluminum or titanium where I thought they could be used. These are all the steel screws I replaced, it shaved a little more than 30 grams off the truck. I am not sure if I am at liberty to say who makes the aluminum and titanium screws or where I got them anymore. I just know I like them, they are well made and seem to be of very good quality. I did not order a whole bunch of different lengths, I just went with long screws that I cut to the length I need. The aluminum screws are almost as difficult to cut as the steel ones which I think is a good indication that they are made of T6 7075 aluminum just like the manufacturer claims.

    Last edited by mistercrash; 05-08-2009 at 10:42 AM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  27. #267
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    where did you get the M Carbon parts?
    3905 GorillaMaxx 1515 1Y, Mambo Monster

  28. #268
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    M Carbon parts cannot be discussed on this forum.
    I'm only at 92%..........

  29. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    Are you sure about this? I said it before I wasn't a lipo expert. Maybe I can try to run them down to 3 volts but if one of my lipos puff it will be your fault

    Lipo's don't poof due to hitting the LVC (3v), they poof when you draw too much too fast (amps) the pack will exceed maximum temps and then "poof". Make sure you have packs that can take your load and they won't have this issue even as you hit your LVC. At lower voltages cheaper packs tend to poof easier.. but thats just an indicator the pack really can't take your given load so if you have cheap packs that are not rated for what you draw by all means set your LVC to 3.2v, this will help you.. the lower your voltage gets the more amps your system draws ( V*A=watts) so at 8.4v you maybe drawing 30amps (just using a number), but at 6.0v you will be drawing 42amps to do the same tasks... now comes the test of your lipo's ability to provide amps, high "C" rated packs that can do what they are listed will be fine, packs with inflated "C" values will poof and die. Not long ago people were poofing maxamps packs daily.. for this reason, maxamps listed their packs capable to 20c but in reality they were only good to 12-15c at best.

    Anyway don't take my word for it, read up on them about the 2.7v being the true bottom.
    Last edited by 8ight-e; 05-08-2009 at 05:31 PM.

  30. #270
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    Thanks 8ight-e, I have nothing under 20C/40C, most lipos I have are more on the 30C/50C range so I should be fine running at 3V. Well maybe 3.1 I know, I'm a big wuss
    It's been fun. See ya.

  31. #271
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    How do I change the LVC to 3.2 Volt and at the same time keep it in auto mode?

    I will keep change from 4S and 6S, so I need to be sure it's safe.
    Last edited by E-maxx Sweden; 05-08-2009 at 07:01 PM.

  32. #272
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    MisterCrash, I thought I was nutz but you take things to a whole new level. Thank you so much for putting so much time and effort into documenting your build/mods... I love it! Keep it up... Now, if you could only make me a carbon chassis... Cheers, Jody
    3905 GorillaMaxx 1515 1Y, Mambo Monster

  33. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-maxx Sweden
    How do I change the LVC to 3.2 Volt and at the same time keep it in auto mode?

    I will keep change from 4S and 6S, so I need to be sure it's safe.
    Just go to the link below and download the latest version of the Castle Link software. This new software lets you set your auto lipo to the voltage per cell you desire.

    http://www.castlecreations.com/downloads.html
    It's been fun. See ya.

  34. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    The last of the aluminum and titanium screws I ordered came in today so I replaced some steel screws with either aluminum or titanium where I thought they could be used. These are all the steel screws I replaced, it shaved a little more than 30 grams off the truck. I am not sure if I am at liberty to say who makes the aluminum and titanium screws or where I got them anymore. I just know I like them, they are well made and seem to be of very good quality. I did not order a whole bunch of different lengths, I just went with long screws that I cut to the length I need. The aluminum screws are almost as difficult to cut as the steel ones which I think is a good indication that they are made of T6 7075 aluminum just like the manufacturer claims.

    Just a heads up, I used aluminum screws as I replaced parts in one of my E-Revos (http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=434613) and I ended up having a few sheer off at the head. I have since thrown all of my aluminum screws in the trash and use steel screws from Tonys Screws and haven't had a problem since.

  35. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by padrino
    Just a heads up, I used aluminum screws as I replaced parts in one of my E-Revos (http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=434613) and I ended up having a few sheer off at the head. I have since thrown all of my aluminum screws in the trash and use steel screws.
    Thanks for the heads up. I have two race days done with these screws with some bashing in between and none of them gave me any problems. So I'll keep on using them for now and will see how they hold up.

    One last word on the LVC setting I will use. After getting some advice from BrianG, you all know that guy right? He's the expert on everything Brushless that brought us the RC Calculations website. Here's a quote from Brian about setting the LVC:

    ''2.7v is probably ok for medium to small loads like cellphones and laptops, but our stuff pulls a LOT of current and the 3v/cell+ is just extra insurance. One other thing; I noticed that cells stay in balance far better if the LVC is set to 3.1v/cell or more. Lower and one/some cells can be substantially lower.

    Whether you choose 3, 3.1, or 2.7, I usually follow this rule of thumb: Set the LVC point such that when you remove a depleted pack from the load for ~10 minutes, the voltage should rebound to at least 3.5v/cell.
    ''

    So my auto lipo will be set to 3.2 volts per cell, I will consider 3.1 volts per cell on high C rated lipos if I ever feel the need to squeeze out as much run time as I can for racing. But for the most part, it will be at 3.2 v and I am sure I will have happy lipos that will serve me well for a long time.

    Lastly, my Neu 5500 mah 2S1P 25C/50C came in today, I can't wait to try these babies out, with LVC set at 3.2 v
    Last edited by mistercrash; 05-08-2009 at 11:00 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  36. #276
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    I also use aluminum and titanium screws in a few places...they are just fine as long as you use them in the correct places. The aluminum screws can go in low-stress areas, the titanium screws can go in medium-stress areas, and the 12.9 steel screws can go in the high-stress areas...doing this will result in a lighter truck, that is just as strong and durable as if you had use 12.9 steel screws everywhere. You CAN NOT use aluminum screws everywhere.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  37. #277
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    Thanks for stating the obvious Revoš.

    Well I am continuing on my ERBE build but I haven't taken pics or posted what I have done or what I plan to do next. With the rules governing this forum now, there's not much I can post here that would not break the rules, actually, this whole thread breaks just about every rule there is. I PMed Misbehavin' about that and apologized for breaking some rules. He asked if I could keep the discussions solely within the rules from now on and he would watch it and leave it open for the time being. Traxxas understands that modifications and creativity are part of this hobby but I need to avoid specific aftermarket tech support.

    I took a couple days to think about all that and I came to this conclusion:

    Sorry but this thread is not worth me being monitored and looked over like a child playing at recess. I'm outta this thread, close it, delete it, do whatever tickles your fancy. It's just to complicated posting in here now.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  38. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    Thanks for stating the obvious Revoš.

    Well I am continuing on my ERBE build but I haven't taken pics or posted what I have done or what I plan to do next. With the rules governing this forum now, there's not much I can post here that would not break the rules, actually, this whole thread breaks just about every rule there is. I PMed Misbehavin' about that and apologized for breaking some rules. He asked if I could keep the discussions solely within the rules from now on and he would watch it and leave it open for the time being. Traxxas understands that modifications and creativity are part of this hobby but I need to avoid specific aftermarket tech support.

    I took a couple days to think about all that and I came to this conclusion:

    Sorry but this thread is not worth me being monitored and looked over like a child playing at recess. I'm outta this thread, close it, delete it, do whatever tickles your fancy. It's just to complicated posting in here now.
    i Feel your pain man, i have mostly stopped posting here because the rules are so strict. ive moved on to better places were you can discuss aftermarket parts with no R strings C attached M so i will still pop in from time to time but im cutting this fourm use to a minimum because i dont wana get banned

  39. #279
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    I have been watching this thread and have done a couple of the mods. I have enjoyed the mods and improvements. Maybe start a new thread at RC Tech.

  40. #280
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    Thank you mistercrash for helping out others by being so generous!

    I have seen more than ten threads close since yesterday, and threads/posts that comment this system are simply deleted. As have some of my posts.

    I too think this is redicoulous and plain arrogant, thus I'm leaving.
    I just don't see why traxxas would not want this to be a great forum for all their customers?

    It's just too bad all the E revo guru's are concentrated here, and spread all over the web. Is there a place where everyone of these great members here also goes? RCM?
    I hope to see your build continue someplace else!
    Your post was edited for inappropriate language.

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