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  1. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8ight-e
    You know another great mod missed on this thread is one using the traxxas steel ringed knuckles... that is the first upgrade as the stock knuckles are not steel ringed (platinum revo are) and the balls pop out pretty darn easy jumping around (PS never NEVER buy the RPM front knuckles, they pop out and are a 100x worse than the traxxas stock part let alone the steel ring version. But this mod works on any knuckle obviously... anyway.. get a couple of set pins per axle and this will keep the stock pivot ball caps from ever backing out.. no need for expensive upgrade parts that don't last long Here is a sample.. just drill a small hole (just a little smaller than your set pin so it stays tight, then viola.. they never back out again, yet are removable. Just make sure when you go to drill you double/triple check the pivot ball caps tightness.. you only get ONE chance!
    Thanks for sharing this 8ight, my ERBE already came with the TRA5334R axle carriers that had metal rings so I didn't talk about that. I have been recommending them to everyone ever since they were introduced on the Revo Platinum. I have been pinning my pivot ball caps since 2006 and this time I decided to fork out the cash and get some aluminum caps that stay put. But you're right, no real need to upgrade with expensive parts as pinning the caps work very well.

    And thanks for the compliments guys.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  2. #122
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    It was really cold today so I didn't run my ERBE. I decided to do what others do to their motor heat sink and painted it. I found flat black paint that sprays on, then you have to bake it at 650 degrees for an hour. Once it's cured, it says it's good to sustain temperatures of up to 1500 degrees. Should be enough It's also really tough once it's cured. I sanded the tip of the fins to match the motor.

    It's been fun. See ya.

  3. #123
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    wow many, that is probably one of the sweetest builds ive seen. Lots of pics and some sweet ideas. Great job and keep the pics and movies coming man, that truck is wicked fast. get some footage of that dog jumping haha! take care
    E-revo for sale. PM me for more info.

  4. #124
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    Thanks, I can't wait to jump this thing high, I have a sweet construction site about half a mile from my house but right now with the snow that has melted in the last couple of weeks and the rain pouring every day, it is so muddy that you can't even walk in there without sinking down to your knees Once it's dry enough, I'll have myself some fun and also, I want to have some footage of the truck going around a race track I race at. It opens early May if weather permits. Maybe sooner if we're lucky.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  5. #125
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    I'm starting to struggle to find new stuff to post to keep my thread alive My ***** 4S 3500 mah 30C/40C came in yesterday.



    They fit nicely and the cells were well balanced in both packs, they were charged at around 29% of their capacity. I charged them fully and tried them in the ERBE. The gearing is 18/54 right now, with the LST diffs, the ratio is way too high. I need my pinions to come in so that I can try a 20T or maybe a 21T pinion with the 54T spur. I didn't run the REBE until the LVC kicked in. It is a cool 50 degrees outside this morning and when I took the temps the motor was at 91, the ESC at 80 and the packs at 74 degrees. Bigger pinion.



    Did anyone know that Traxxas is releasing GTR shocks with red or blue shock bodies in April? #TRA5460A - blue assembled,
    #TRA5467A - blue bodies, #TRA5460R - red assembled, #TRA5467R - red bodies

    http://www.traxxas.com/support/kb_se...l&cat=0&id=619
    http://www.traxxas.com/support/pub/s...d_shock_fr.jpg
    Last edited by mistercrash; 04-02-2009 at 08:53 AM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  6. #126
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    Receiver box thumb screw

    I was still thinking of that receiver box thing I tried to re program the ESC fast and easy. Installing a switch for the + and signal wire is a solution but it scares me a little. Switches fail. I don't wish to have connectors sticking out of my receiver box either. Thanks for the suggestions, I know I asked for them but I decided to go another route so...

    I made this.



    Now with a small zip tie as a hinge on one side, I use the thumb screw to close the receiver box. No tools required, fast and easy to access the ESC wire to re program the MMM when needed. I wish I had the tools to make a knurled thumb screw but this will have to do. I have a new receiver box coming to replace the cover in the pic with a new one with no holes in it.

    Last edited by mistercrash; 04-02-2009 at 11:38 AM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  7. #127
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    is your cf slipper pad works good? better than stop slipper pads?

    Id like to buy some if its possible for you,

  8. #128
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    Yeah, I'd like to join on the buying of CF slipper pad - PM me if you have a price in mind.

  9. #129
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    yea that^ ten characters
    E-revo brushless, Slash 4x4

  10. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    I was still thinking of that receiver box thing I tried to re program the ESC fast and easy. Installing a switch for the + and signal wire is a solution but it scares me a little. Switches fail. I don't wish to have connectors sticking out of my receiver box either. Thanks for the suggestions, I know I asked for them but I decided to go another route so...

    Now with a small zip tie as a hinge on one side, I use the thumb screw to close the receiver box. No tools required, fast and easy to access the ESC wire to re program the MMM when needed. I wish I had the tools to make a knurled thumb screw but this will have to do. I have a new receiver box coming to replace the cover in the pic with a new one with no holes in it.

    You know it's pretty easy to not play w/ the MMM ESC, find some nice settings and then just learn how to control your spektrum better.. not being rude or taking a shot at you, but you seem super intelligent and it just seems like you’re not taking full advantage of the spektrums options and worrying too much about access to that end. I'd rather keep the tighter seal on the rx box... but that is obviously a personal preference.

    Still a nice thread

  11. #131
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    Longbill did it and it looks sick - mistercrash didn't get to his current level of know how by leaving things box stock - I admire him for both his successes and his ideas that need some re-working...

  12. #132
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    MC, nice video, by any chance have you switched the CD oil to 30k, Also how do you like how it performs, what time you have run it.....the reason I'm asking is I would like some feedback on the CD, other than my own experience with mine... Thanks again....once again...nice truck
    Bl Erevo w/ Hyper 7 Center Diff
    Sjcrss on RCM

  13. #133
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    I'm still learning about this brushless stuff and experimenting. That means I'm often changing things around or changing settings and when I saw longbill's receiver box I thought it would be good for me too. Like you said 8ight, the Spektrum has nice features and options. One thing I am playing with right now is lipos in series and parallel, 3S in series for 6S, 5S and 4S in parallel. This means I have to change the LVC settings. Of course I could just set it to auto lipo but I feel more secure setting the cut off voltage at 3.2 V per cell. I just got tired of reaching for my 2 mm hex screw driver all the time Thanks for your feedback guys I appreciate it.

    As for parts for sale, please don't take this the wrong way. I tried making parts and selling them in the past, it is just too much time consuming so I won't do it anymore. One thing I do is be completely open about whatever I think of by posting pics of how I did with explanations the best I can to encourage people to make it themselves.

    rcmaniac
    The CD has now 30k in it and it is better than it was with 50k. It still wheelies sometimes but only when I use my trigger like an on/off switch I have been running my ERBE everyday since I rebuilt it. At least one lipo cycle a day. I love the 1/8th scale CD. I think it performs very well, maybe it could use a little thinner lube but I will experiment with the slipper first. Setting the slipper to slip a little will probably get rid of any wheelies, which is good for racing. By the way, I got the $90 CDN M3X.5 carbide tap. I tapped two holes with it, it cut through the hardened steel like butter. I was impressed. Then, it snapped while making the third hole A few bad words came out of my mouth when it happened.

    Anyway, I think I'll follow 8ight's advice and re read my DX3R instruction book. I probably forgot about a few things this radio can do.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 04-02-2009 at 10:24 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  14. #134
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    I was still thinking of that receiver box thing I tried to re program the ESC fast and easy. Installing a switch for the + and signal wire is a solution but it scares me a little. Switches fail. I don't wish to have connectors sticking out of my receiver box either. Thanks for the suggestions, I know I asked for them but I decided to go another route so...
    If your still interested I used the on/off switch from a revo 3.3, it has two switching side on it so you can put the "+" on one side and the signal on the other side to switch both at the same time. I works really good too I dont have to use the switch for the MMM anymore I can plug the batts in and the MMM will flash yellow but will not arm itself till you turn the switch on in the receiver box.
    "Lead, Follow, or get out of the way"

  15. #135
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    Thanks kscherer3153, for now I'm done messing around with this receiver box and wires. My MMM wire has been cut and re soldered enough I'm satisfied with the way I have it now.

    I have a set of Proline Badlands with JConcept Rulux LPR half ups coming in. I am still debating if I'm going to leave the rims white or dye them black.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  16. #136
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    ***** 5S 3000 mah 20C

    What a shame that it is pouring rain outside today because look at what my good buddy the mailman (I love that guy) brought to my door this morning.



    They fit snuggly inside without forcing them in. The plastic springy clippy thingy has to be removed for the lipos to fit.



    Now to put EC3 connectors on so I can try them as soon as the rain stops.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  17. #137
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    Hold on! with all the new found power from the 5s!!

    Looks good MC!! Love the black parts everywhere!
    Emaxx- truggy/CD conversion...

  18. #138
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    I'm trying to figure out what gearing to use for 4S, 5S and 6S. The stock gearing of the ERevo is 65/18 for 6S and 54/18 for 4S:
    65/18 for an estimated top speed of 35.47 mph on 6S.
    54/18 for an estimated top speed of 28.46 mph on 4S.

    There's nothing for gearing running 5S so I just went in the middle and got:
    58/18 for an estimated top speed of 33.13 mph on 5S.

    The over all ratio on my ERBE is different since I use LST2 diffs which use a 13/43 gearing instead of the stock ERBE 13/37. I would like to use the same spur and change pinions when needed or use the same pinions and change the spurs when needed. So to get the same estimated top speed would probably be:

    SAME PINION/DIFFERENT SPURS:
    6S 21/65
    5S 21/58
    4S 21/54

    SAME SPUR/DIFFERENT PINIONS:
    6S 58/19
    5S 58/21
    4S 58/22


    Any comments or suggestions? And I still have to check if all these gear combos will actually fit. A couple might not.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  19. #139
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. nitrostarter's Avatar
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    I just did the calc and figured with stock ERBE diffs:
    4s 18/54 at 36mph
    6s 18/65 at 46mph

    How fast do you want to go?

    Top speed:
    4s: 28/54 at 48.5mph
    6s: 28/54 at 74mph

    Good speed for the track: Gear for about 40-45mph. You have the power to turn most any gear ratio.
    Emaxx- truggy/CD conversion...

  20. #140
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    What I am looking for is the right gearing for 4S, 5S and 6S so that nothing over heats during racing. I still don't know which lipos I will use for racing. Track time will determine which set up I prefer. It might be 5S for qualifiers and final or 6S for qualifiers and 4S for the final. I still don't know. I agree that 40 - 45 mph is good for the track but will it be too slow for 6S and make the motor over heat? To reach that speed on 4S the gearing would be different and would it make the ESC and lipos over heat?
    Is it ok to gear up or down to achieve the same top speed no matter what the cell count is? Or would it be better to gear according to the cell count that is used so that the motor, ESC and lipos stay at a safe temperature and have the top speed change according to the cell count? Am I thinking too much?
    I have always taken very good care of my RCs and although I want to get the best performance out of my ERBE, I don't want to fry anything because my gearing was wrong. Racing is very demanding on the equipment and I hate being DNF.
    Maybe I'm just thinking too much about it. The track isn't even opened yet. I have all the spurs, I need to get a few more pinions and I'll have a wide range of ratios I can play and test with when the time comes.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  21. #141
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    I finally got my second motor plate today and installed it. It went pretty smoothly actually. The only somewhat time consuming part was grinding away the material necessary to fit the gear cover on.
    It definitely stiffens things up. It takes a lot of force pulling on the back side of the motor to open up any space between the spur and pinion.
    I decided not to bother with gluing the two plates together. Between the four screws holding the motor plates to the tranny and the two motor mount screws I don't see any need for glue. I haven't run it yet but I see no potential problems



    This is the whole view. I ground away about half of the fins on the back of the slipper pressure plate and that gave just enough clearance, even though it looks like it's touching in the pic it is actually about a 1/2 mm gap....what looks like a shadow line in the pic is actually the gap between them.

    heres a close up what you have to grind away to make the gear cover slip on.


    And a shot showing that with my golden horizons shock mount, I still have a little over 1 mm of space between the motor and mount.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 11-21-2009 at 10:45 PM.

  22. #142
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    You don't typically have time to mess w/ gear swaps while at the track.. pick your voltage and stick with it! LOL I only race 4s anything more is really overkill, many track rules may force you to stay at 4s as well, some even say "hard shell" only.

    I would keep your 5s packs for bashing with the same gearing as your race setup.. 21/58 on 4s is the max you want (drops you 42mph range) then for bashing w/ 5s it will push you up to 52MPH for some serious fun. Stay away from 6s unless you want 62 for some land speed records

    To go from 4s to 6s you would have to swap pinions, it's retarded messing around w/ pinions btw heats and mains.

  23. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8ight-e
    you seem super intelligent
    Quote Originally Posted by 8ight-e
    it's retarded messing around w/ pinions btw
    So what am I? intelligent or retarded? Make up your mind. Just joking.

    You gave me some good advice about gearing and cell count. Thank you very much. I appreciate it. Now I can sleep

    candy76man
    Very well done. It looks very good and I will certainly look into stiffening up that motor plate even more. I can see why you don't have problems with clearance between your motor and rear shock tower. The GH seems to be made a little differently than the stock plastic shock tower. Nice job with the blue sharpie also
    Last edited by mistercrash; 04-03-2009 at 10:56 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  24. #144
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    6 mm thick carbon fiber motor plate

    Following candy76man's lead on his double aluminum motor plate, I doubled my carbon fiber plate for a total of 6 mm. I epoxied two 3 mm motor plates together.



    Unlike candy76man, I had to Dremel some material from the rear shock mount for motor clearance.



    I also had to grind down the slipper fins a little.



    It is now so stiff that I can't move the motor without a lot of force. And I suspect that the hardly noticeable flex left actually comes from the cast aluminum heat sink because I can't detect any movement from the motor plate. I used a longer M4 screw for the gear mesh adjustments.

    Last edited by mistercrash; 04-04-2009 at 04:17 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  25. #145
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    wow this truck is nice.
    BRUSLESS RULES

  26. #146
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    Thanks bigdog.

    I ran my ERBE some more this evening and had a bad landing. The body actually got squashed enough to make contact with the motor. The motor left marks on the inside of the body, circled in red. Circled in green looks like it's from the slipper cover. Circled in blue is from the tip of the rear sway bar and circled in yellow is from the thumb screw I made for the receiver box.



    After inspection, the only thing I could find that was broken is the slipper cover.



    I think my ERBE needs a roll bar like the 3.3 has
    It's been fun. See ya.

  27. #147
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    Well MC, you not suppose to drive on the roof, and in your case...A roll bar is probably a good idea...lol, on a side note I took the CD out just for a little TLC and see how it is holding up so far, and here is the update.....
    No leaks or loose screws, at all, the gear is holding up well also.
    Bearings... no slop and still roll smooth
    Internal 4 spyder gears, holding good as well
    30k oil , a little dirty but that is expected, due to break in of the spyder gears
    Shafts , are holding there own as well....very strong..
    This is just a FYI, for anyone who is interested in the info
    Last edited by rcmaniac; 04-04-2009 at 08:14 PM.
    Bl Erevo w/ Hyper 7 Center Diff
    Sjcrss on RCM

  28. #148
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    anything I do I do my best to do it well and that includes landing on the roof, I don't go half way

    Thanks for the update on the 8th scale CD. If all goes well, this thing will require very minimal maintenance. Good to hear.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  29. #149
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    I did some bashing on 5S again today in a park. I chose this place because my favorite bash site is still too muddy to step on. This park had a cool landscape with lots of small hills and humps that you can jump off at high speeds. It also had lots of trees One moved in front of my ERBE again and I broke a lower front A arm.
    I will be changing the springs on the shocks because with the silver and blue springs, the truck is bottoming out like crazy. I will put on black rear and gold fronts. I won't mess with the rest of the set up just yet, staying with P2 rockers, 60 weight oil and #3 variable damping pistons.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  30. #150
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    man, your having just the worst luck, MC.....maybe you should put the MMM combo in training mode, that way you won't wreck it...lol, have you tried using orange front, and gold in the rear, and keep the rest the same?
    Bl Erevo w/ Hyper 7 Center Diff
    Sjcrss on RCM

  31. #151
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcmaniac
    man, your having just the worst luck, MC.....maybe you should put the MMM combo in training mode, that way you won't wreck it...lol, have you tried using orange front, and gold in the rear, and keep the rest the same?
    haha no training mode on the mmm!

  32. #152
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    hmm, maybe he should just learn to not have such a LEAD finger, and remember there is brakes ......just bustin on you MC
    Bl Erevo w/ Hyper 7 Center Diff
    Sjcrss on RCM

  33. #153
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    Following up on an earlier topic, I can confirm that the stock 2.4ghz radio and MMM ESC also won't allow a Y connector to connect CastleLink.

    That is, the ESC must be disconnected from the Rx to avoid powering the Rx and confusing everything. Since MC had a different radio, I thought it was an interesting experiment to try.

  34. #154
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    Thanks for the update on that Ground Loop.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  35. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    I'm still learning about this brushless stuff and experimenting. That means I'm often changing things around or changing settings and when I saw longbill's receiver box I thought it would be good for me too. Like you said 8ight, the Spektrum has nice features and options. One thing I am playing with right now is lipos in series and parallel, 3S in series for 6S, 5S and 4S in parallel. This means I have to change the LVC settings. Of course I could just set it to auto lipo but I feel more secure setting the cut off voltage at 3.2 V per cell. I just got tired of reaching for my 2 mm hex screw driver all the time Thanks for your feedback guys I appreciate it.

    As for parts for sale, please don't take this the wrong way. I tried making parts and selling them in the past, it is just too much time consuming so I won't do it anymore. One thing I do is be completely open about whatever I think of by posting pics of how I did with explanations the best I can to encourage people to make it themselves.

    rcmaniac
    The CD has now 30k in it and it is better than it was with 50k. It still wheelies sometimes but only when I use my trigger like an on/off switch I have been running my ERBE everyday since I rebuilt it. At least one lipo cycle a day. I love the 1/8th scale CD. I think it performs very well, maybe it could use a little thinner lube but I will experiment with the slipper first. Setting the slipper to slip a little will probably get rid of any wheelies, which is good for racing. By the way, I got the $90 CDN M3X.5 carbide tap. I tapped two holes with it, it cut through the hardened steel like butter. I was impressed. Then, it snapped while making the third hole A few bad words came out of my mouth when it happened.

    Anyway, I think I'll follow 8ight's advice and re read my DX3R instruction book. I probably forgot about a few things this radio can do.
    Crash just curious what were you threading did you drill it out first? Sucks breaking taps usually I have good luck drilling it out first to the specs for the tap or did it not say what size hole to drill?
    BTW not knocking you just wondering as I also have a great investment in taps and dies.

  36. #156
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    He drilled out 4 holes, to accept a 3mm tap, however the holes were thru a hardened ring gear from a 1/8 scale diff, which it is fairly easy to drill out, it's the tapping thats a pita....
    Bl Erevo w/ Hyper 7 Center Diff
    Sjcrss on RCM

  37. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcmaniac
    He drilled out 4 holes, to accept a 3mm tap, however the holes were thru a hardened ring gear from a 1/8 scale diff, which it is fairly easy to drill out, it's the tapping thats a pita....
    Yeah man 3mm through hardend steel gear= tough
    I use this http://www.shopping.com/xPO-CRC-1405...6OZ-pack-of-12
    And then only work the tap in a 1/4 of a turn at a time backing out each time. Sometimes on tough stuff i can only go 1/8th or less but still thats a real small tap.

  38. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by moneypitrevo
    Crash just curious what were you threading did you drill it out first? Sucks breaking taps usually I have good luck drilling it out first to the specs for the tap or did it not say what size hole to drill?
    BTW not knocking you just wondering as I also have a great investment in taps and dies.
    M3X.5 tap requires a 2.5 mm hole which I made first. I also used cutting/taping fluid to help with the process. Taping threads in a material that is just about as hard as the tap itself is a bit tricky. It can be done of course, but with a small tap like an M3, sometimes you just push it a little too hard. It happens. But I don't regret anything, I love the 8th scale diff in my ERBE.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 04-05-2009 at 09:33 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  39. #159
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    I hear ya sucks breaking tools though. More so when they are expensive and hard to get. but thats the price of fame :>)

  40. #160
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    I have some pinions that came in this morning from RC Monster Mike. They are very nice and the guy ships fast. Now I have more gearing options to tinker with.

    This little trick dates back to the 90s and is from Joel ''Magic'' Johnson. It's for the on/off switch. If your switch ever went back to the ''off'' position by itself after a crash, you can make a little piece that goes on the switch using one of the screws to keep the switch from going to the ''off'' position. It's simple and it works, I've been using this trick for years.



    On a side note, I have been neglecting my nitro Revo with a modded 18TM ever since I got my ERBE so I decided to run it yesterday. I thought something was wrong with it for the first couple of minutes of running, then I realized that the thing is just sloooooooow compared to the ERBE
    Last edited by mistercrash; 04-06-2009 at 09:47 AM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

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