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  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    I didn't like the flex there was with the stock aluminum motor mount so I made the 3 mm thick carbon fiber one. But there was still flex even with the CF, not as much as with the aluminum mount but the flex was still there. After running the truck a few times, I even noticed a notch on my rear shock tower made by the motor hitting it. The rear of the motor moves up and down when you land a jump and it also moves side to side. I made this mount to support the rear of the motor, It is a piece of maple with a hose clamp of the right size. I split the hose clamp in two and secured it to the wood block with screws.



    The block as to be made with precision. It has to sit under the motor without pushing the motor upwards.



    Here it is installed. There is no need to clamp the motor very hard, just snug is enough to get rid of any flex. This I hope will prevent stripped spurs due to motor mount flex.



    The maple block is secured to the chassis with just one screw from underneath.



    And here is the final installation.



    The truck is running great, between each mod I do I run the truck as much as I can. It's a lot of fun. A little wrenching, a lot of running, I'm having a ball with this project.
    Good idea for holding the motor stationary but I have a question. You obviously have the equipment needed for machining cf so I wonder why you wouldn't have just used either a thicker piece of cf or machine a thicker piece of aluminum to replace the stock motor plate and eliminate the flexing. I'm sure you have a good reason but i was just curious?

  2. #82
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    Using a thicker piece of CF means the cover plate would not fit anymore and I want to use it. Also, it would move the motor back a little bit and even moving it back by one mm means it will hit the rear shock tower so it would have to be trimmed for clearance. No biggie but I chose to make a rear motor stiffener because I knew that it would absolutely work in eliminating any motor movements. I don't have any machining equipment like a lathe or mill. I wish I did. The most sophisticated tools I have are a couple drill press, couple of miter saws, a belt/disc sander and a table saw. I have a couple tools I made myself like a small table saw with a diamond blade to cut CF sheets to size and a cheap router table and router I bought in a yard sale for which I made a special adapter to use tungsten carbide and diamond bits to work with CF. I have a few power tools like drills and stuff but that would be it. I make all the things I do with those and a lot of filing, Dremelling and sanding by hand.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 03-24-2009 at 01:02 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  3. #83
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    Hey Mr. Crash, is that a 2200 MMM? How comethe engine is black and not green?

  4. #84
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    ERBE comes with a awsome black version
    if you dont break something go higher and faster

  5. #85
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    Learn something new every day!

  6. #86
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    yep, ERBE for E Revo Black Edition
    It's been fun. See ya.

  7. #87
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    lol once u dye the grey parts like u and me did
    Last edited by revo guy; 03-24-2009 at 07:50 PM.
    if you dont break something go higher and faster

  8. #88
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    Well as anyone figured out that this rear motor mount I made, especially the way I made it was totally stupid? I was cleaning up my work space and glanced at the truck and suddenly it hit me, what if I want to change gearing? How am I going to be able to reset the gear mesh if the rear of the motor doesn't move with the front? I still think that something to hold the rear of the motor is a good idea but the way I did it was not well thought out so I ditched it. Finding a way to have a rear motor mount that lets the rear move with the front when resetting the gear mesh is needed is too complicated for my little brain.
    Candy76man's suggestion of having a thicker front motor mount seems to be much simpler to do. I'll have to look into it.

    Since it was poorly made I deleted the pics on my Photobucket account.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 03-24-2009 at 11:24 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  9. #89
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    MC you could make a mount that bolts to the rear shock tower, either the top or bottom but make it so its kinda like a rest for the motor. It will still support it and will cradle the motor and still allow you to adjust your mesh. I may draw a picture to show what I mean.
    What shall I put here?

  10. #90
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    Update on the slipper clutch pad. I deliberately ran it a little loose to see how it would hold up to over heating. It did very well. I could hear the thing slipping like crazy but it kept on going. I did about 20 hard full throttle starts from a stand still and then brought it back in the garage. By the time I took the body and the gear cover off, I temped the slipper assembly at 250 degrees Fahrenheit. There was no damage to the slipper assembly or the slipper pad and no premature wear of the pad. I did not disassemble the unit to look at the disk. I just re tightened the slipper nut to where it should be and went at it again. It worked like nothing happened. I got it set up right now that it slips a little like it should. It seems like when it starts slipping, it gets hotter of course and when it starts getting hotter, it grabs even more.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  11. #91
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    Ignore the drawing of the motor in the upper right hand corner in the first picture, that was a fluke.




    My drawing capabilities suck so bare with me lol
    What shall I put here?

  12. #92
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    I hate to disappoint you but it looks a lot like what I did. This block underneath the motor will prevent the back of the motor to move the same as the front when you adjust the gear mesh. Remember that when moving the motor to adjust the gear mesh, it moves left or right and also a little bit up or down. A back motor mount or support brace would have to allow the rear of the motor to move like the front to allow gear mesh adjustments and also support it to not move once the gear mesh is set and the adjusting screw in front is tighten. If there was a place on the back of the motor can to have a screw like the one in front for adjusting the gear mesh, there could be two motor mount plates, the stock one in front and a very similar one in the back with a curved slot for that screw. Just like the curved slot for the front screw. That way, to adjust gear mesh, you would have to loosen the front screw and the back screw, set the gear mesh and re tighten the two screws to have the motor supported front and back.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  13. #93
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    I am going to try to fix this motor mount flexing problem like this, tell me if you see any problem with my thinking here or something I missed.

    I'm going to buy a second motor mounting plate and basically put it directly on top of the first one which will double the thickness of the motor mount. I've been looking at it for a while and I think I know what all I need to do to make this work.

    1- I have golden horizons shock mounts installed on my truck and it may be different with the stock ones but the GH mounts give me a good 4 mm of clearance behind the motor and the second mount will move the motor back 3mm leaving just enough space I believe.

    2- Stock, there is exactly 3 mm of space between the slipper back plates cooling fins and the motor plate. That will be too tight so I'm going to grind about 1mm of the fins off so there's enough clearance.

    3-If I have a problem getting the gears lined up because of the spur being in the same position but the motor moving back 3mm I can add a 1mm spacer or two behind the 3 screws that attach it to the slipper plate. However with the motor shaft being 5mm (stout) and fairly long it should fit without doing that, either by moving it farther out on the shaft (less preferable since that would make it easier to break the rotor) or by turning the pinion around the other direction. Regardless, I don't see it being a big problem.

    4- The motor and motor plate mounting screws should be as simple as using 3mm longer screws all around in the stock holes.

    5- I want to use the gear cover as well, so in order to be able to continue using it I will grind off enough of the top edge of the motor mount closest to the motor to allow the cover to slide on just like stock. There is only about a 1 inch section closest to the motor that this will have to be done on, I think.

    6- I'm going to drill and tap 3 or 4 spots to screw the two motor plates together so that it's not relying soley on the mounting screws to hold the motor plates together as one solid unit. I am also thinking about using some kind of glue between them just to ensure they act as one solid 6mm thick plate. I'm thinking CA would probably be best for that?


    So, tell me if you see any potential issues I haven't seen with my plan. I could very well be missing something crucial at this point since I just came up with this today.

    I think a 6mm plate there should eliminate the movement between the spur and pinion that is bugging me, and you apparently MisterCrash

  14. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    I hate to disappoint you but it looks a lot like what I did. This block underneath the motor will prevent the back of the motor to move the same as the front when you adjust the gear mesh. Remember that when moving the motor to adjust the gear mesh, it moves left or right and also a little bit up or down. A back motor mount or support brace would have to allow the rear of the motor to move like the front to allow gear mesh adjustments and also support it to not move once the gear mesh is set and the adjusting screw in front is tighten. If there was a place on the back of the motor can to have a screw like the one in front for adjusting the gear mesh, there could be two motor mount plates, the stock one in front and a very similar one in the back with a curved slot for that screw. Just like the curved slot for the front screw. That way, to adjust gear mesh, you would have to loosen the front screw and the back screw, set the gear mesh and re tighten the two screws to have the motor supported front and back.

    I totally forgot about that. I dont have a E-revo so I'm just throwing out my idea of what I seen on yours. Could you oval the rest and that way the motor could move from left to right but still be supported?
    What shall I put here?

  15. #95
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    I think candy76man has a good solution worth trying out. 6 mm of aluminum should be very stiff. If there is still flex, it should be so minimal that it won't be a factor.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  16. #96
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    Aluminum pivot ball caps

    Something new came in this morning from Golden Horizon. Aluminum pivot ball caps, they are nice with an O ring to keep them from backing out.



    I have this 4.6 mm thick piece of carbon fiber that is big enough to make a motor mount out of it. I will wait for some feedback from candy76man about his 6 mm thick double aluminum motor mount and if he likes it, I'll will probably try a CF 4.6 mm thick one.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  17. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    I have this 4.6 mm thick piece of carbon fiber that is big enough to make a motor mount out of it. I will wait for some feedback from candy76man about his 6 mm thick double aluminum motor mount and if he likes it, I'll will probably try a CF 4.6 mm thick one.

    I should be getting the extra motor plate from tower the first of next week.

  18. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    ZERO SLOP 17 MM OFNA ADAPTERS

    I posted this before in another thread. The Ofna adapters are tough and cheap. The Traxxas adapters are very similar except for the splines. Both of them have slop that gets worse with time because they get grinded by the threads of the stub axles. There are other systems out there that require the use of 8 mm stub axles or stub axles with no threads but they end up being expensive, although they are very good. Also there are cheaper styles that work great but I started with Ofna before any other systems came out and with the modifications I did, they have been working so well that I don’t see why I should change anything. The thumbnails will lead you to a bigger pic with a description underneath of what was done.

    GETTING RID OF THE SLOP

    Very nice solution, but I have a simpler one for those that don't have your facilities.

    Put a little oil on a Q-tip and run it through the center of the Traxxas or Ofna adapters.

    Install the adapters onto the axles. Use blue loctite to secure the screw pin.

    Use green loctite (the kind that pentrates) and put 2-3 drops in the end of the axle where the threads are. Let it sit for an hour or so.

    The light coating of oil prevents the green loctite from sticking to the inner bore of the adapter, so you won't have any trouble getting it off if you need to. It will, however, stick to the threaded portion of the axle, and fill the gap between the threads and inner bore of the adapter, removing all slop. This is very effective.

    Cheers,
    Ken

  19. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenkamm
    Very nice solution, but I have a simpler one for those that don't have your facilities.

    Put a little oil on a Q-tip and run it through the center of the Traxxas or Ofna adapters.

    Install the adapters onto the axles. Use blue loctite to secure the screw pin.

    Use green loctite (the kind that pentrates) and put 2-3 drops in the end of the axle where the threads are. Let it sit for an hour or so.

    The light coating of oil prevents the green loctite from sticking to the inner bore of the adapter, so you won't have any trouble getting it off if you need to. It will, however, stick to the threaded portion of the axle, and fill the gap between the threads and inner bore of the adapter, removing all slop. This is very effective.

    Cheers,
    Ken
    Does the green locktite hold up for long in a spot that is subjected to a lot of force like that?


    I'm using a piece of shrink wrap on the threaded part of the axle that makes a snug fit in the adapter. Someone posted about it here a while back and it seems to work well too.

  20. #100
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    MC FYI I was at the LHS today and saw a Traxxas carbon brake disc part # 4964 it looks like a TMAXX disc. I purchased one and it is a perfect size match of the slipper clutch plate. I opened the package and the little pins that the slipper pads go on fit perfect into the larger holes of the brake disc. It fits tight with a little squeeze of the pliers. I would think the best way would be to drill the correct size holes but this may be something for you to look at, it is similar to your carbon fiber disc you made. Let me know what you think I may try it myself.
    SLASH PE 4x4,LOSI 8E 2.0, LOSI 8TE 2.0

  21. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by candy76man
    Does the green locktite hold up for long in a spot that is subjected to a lot of force like that?
    Sure does.


    Quote Originally Posted by candy76man
    I'm using a piece of shrink wrap on the threaded part of the axle that makes a snug fit in the adapter. Someone posted about it here a while back and it seems to work well too.
    I started out with the heat shrink solution. That works, but eventually I found the threads cut through the heat shrink.

  22. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetcam2
    MC FYI I was at the LHS today and saw a Traxxas carbon brake disc part # 4964 it looks like a TMAXX disc. I purchased one and it is a perfect size match of the slipper clutch plate. I opened the package and the little pins that the slipper pads go on fit perfect into the larger holes of the brake disc. It fits tight with a little squeeze of the pliers. I would think the best way would be to drill the correct size holes but this may be something for you to look at, it is similar to your carbon fiber disc you made. Let me know what you think I may try it myself.
    Good find there jetcam2. It looks to be made with fiber glass, much like G10 plates. Tell us how it works out for you because this is a very inexpensive alternative and the fact that it doesn't have to be fabricated is a plus. Let us know.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  23. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    That brings me to think that the bulkheads will snap more easily since the chassis' front and rear ends have too much flex to help the bulks dissipate the forces of impacts during extreme suspension movements. It's just an observation here, maybe I just think too much.
    Or maybe you're right on.

    The only part I've broken so far is the rear bulkhead. (Center bash plate also cracked)

    The chassis pan itself just flexed, and it's fine. The rear bulkhead broke the mounts off.

  24. #104
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    I ordered an Ernst charge receptacle and a Y harness that I think will need to be modified to have two male plugs and one female plug instead of two female and one male. This will be to follow Longbill76's idea in his thread about his ERevo build. He made a receptacle for his CastleLink on the receiver box cover so that he can plug the CastleLink without removing the cover.

    I did a bit of reading about suspension set ups for the ERevo and I ended up with a set up I'm going to start with for racing this season. The way my MMM is set up for now is posted above. I took a set up sheet for the 3.3 Revo since I didn't find one for the ERevo on the Traxxas site. If there is one maybe someone can post a link.



    I weighed my ERBE on 4 digital scales and I was surprised how well balanced it is. I thought this thing might be tail heavy but with 49.4% front weight bias, and a difference of just 52 grams from left to right, I am pleased with it's overall balance. I might try to tweak it a bit in the future.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 03-27-2009 at 09:21 AM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  25. #105
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    I need help from someone with knowledge. I tried longbill76's cool way of putting a plug through the receiver box cap to make it easy to plug the Castlelink but the thing just doesn't work. Like the drawing shows, it's just a female plug that has been soldered to the MMM's receiver wire to make some sort of a Y harness. Then I just found a way to make the plug hold securely on the receiver cap. I'm frustrated because this was a lot of work and the result looks good but the Castle software will not log onto the MMM.
    USB connection status - green
    Device connection status - red

    I'm using a Spektrum DX3R receiver, I don't know if that has something to do with it. Does the MMM's receiver wire have to be disconnected from the receiver in order for the software to recognize it?



    What am I missing here? I have very good soldering skills and all of my connections are correct and secure, brown (-) wire with brown wire, orange (neutral) with orange and red (+) with red. It's very simple but it just doesn't work. I don't get it. I hope somebody can help me with this.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 03-28-2009 at 08:52 AM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  26. #106
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    Well, if the problem is in fact because of it still being plugged into the receiver it should be easy to find out. Just unplug the esc from the receiver and see if your add on connection works then, if not I would say something has to be wired wrong. I don't see any other reason for it not to work?

  27. #107
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    For the record, red is +, brown is -, the orange lead is the signal lead... not neutral. Neutral is more of an AC term. As for why you can't read or use the castle link while installed in the reciever.. they don't want you having to work through the recr to connect to the esc.. think about it, if the recr were bad, then you wouldn't be able to connect to the esc, and then you'd think the esc were bad, and send it back when it wasn't. Fact is, the most direct connection to a component is the best way.. leave the recr out of it.
    Reformed nitro operations specialist..

  28. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmj40
    the orange lead is the signal lead... not neutral. Neutral is more of an AC term. As for why you can't read or use the castle link while installed in the reciever.. they don't want you having to work through the recr to connect to the esc.. think about it, if the recr were bad, then you wouldn't be able to connect to the esc, and then you'd think the esc were bad, and send it back when it wasn't. Fact is, the most direct connection to a component is the best way.. leave the recr out of it.
    Thanks for the correction. Bad choice of terms on my part. From what you are saying, am I to presume that the MMM has something in it preventing the Y harness I made to work? If so then I guess it's time for me to order a new receiver box to get a new cover that has no hole in it.

    On another note, I peeled off the foam blocks that are in the front of the battery compartments and stuck them to the rear of the compartments bringing the batteries to the front. It makes a noticeable difference in how the truck handles.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  29. #109
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    When you connect the USB CastleLink circuit, it powers the ESC through the red lead, of course, and communicates over the orange.

    The problem is that the 5v on the read lead will *also* power your Rx.

    If your Rx goes "mute" when it doesn't receive a radio signal, and it doesn't drive the signal line, then CastleLink will work.

    If the Rx has a failsafe, then it will drive servo pulses on the signal line, and interefere with the CastleLink connection. If this can't be disabled on the Rx, then you have to somehow disconnect the signal line from the Rx to the ESC, *or* disconnect the power line to the Rx to keep it from turning on.

  30. #110
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    Thanks for clarifying this Ground loop and making it simple to understand for a guy like me. So some kind of a switch would have to be installed on the receiver cover and wired so that by flicking it to one side it can cut the power to the receiver and only bring it to the ESC for programming. Flicking the switch back to the other side would bring back the power to both receiver and ESC. This is starting to be a lot of work just so that I don't have to take two screws to access the ESC wire inside the box. I'll use my time to play with the truck instead
    Thanks again this was very good info.

    Maybe I can use a zip tie on one side of the receiver cover as a hinge, in the hole for one of the two screws and on the other side, find a thumb screw to securely close the receiver box. One thumb screw only and no tool needed to open the receiver box to access the ESC wire. Maybe a new mod to do while my lipos are recharging.

    For an update in general about all the mods that have been done on this ERBE, the drive train is running smooth as silk, the front and rear diffs are awsome and strong, I don't think they will ever be a problem, the Summit shafts are still holding and don't show any significant amounts of slop or wear. The center diff does it's job in preventing wheelies although on 6S, wheelies do happen sometimes but the CD really helps in controlling them. Again on 6S the CD unloads quite a bit sometimes to the front but that is to be expected with such power from the MMM. The slipper clutch pad is great, it really does a great job absorbing shocks to the drive train and the CF really holds up to very high amounts of heat. The ''no slop, no Locktite'' Ofna adapters are doing very well. I have tested these for a long time but only on my 3.3. I am now dealing with a very different and so much more powerful beast. The adapters proved to be awsome even with the abuse of the MMM.

    That's it for now, batteries are almost done charging.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  31. #111
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    I read a few posts about people that do not use the on/off switch as it becomes contaminated with dirt and dust and quickly becomes useless. I'm trying this, I hope it works because I like to have the switch as a way to quickly turn off the MMM until I can take the truck back to my pit table to disconnect the batteries. I will be racing this truck so I can't loose time screwing around in the pits to disconnect my batteries. When my race is over, I want to just flick the switch off and take my turn marshalling on the track. After I'm done marshalling, I can take back the truck to my pit table and disconnect the batteries.

    It's been fun. See ya.

  32. #112
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    Well it was bound to happen, I broke my truck yesterday. I thought it would be fun to make the dead leaves and mud fly out from under the truck in the woods behind my house. It was fun but I hit a tree and broke..... the front bumper mount That's it! Revos are tough. I swear that tree moved in the way.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  33. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    Well it was bound to happen, I broke my truck yesterday. I thought it would be fun to make the dead leaves and mud fly out from under the truck in the woods behind my house. It was fun but I hit a tree and broke..... the front bumper mount That's it! Revos are tough. I swear that tree moved in the way.
    It was running away from the revo in fear of it and got disoriented and got in the way
    What shall I put here?

  34. #114
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    WOW...this, my friends, is the definition of ELITE!

    MC, sir, you have amazed me! Your hand-worked CF is nothing short of spectacular! I also work with CF, and use basic hand tools and a band-saw, but my work is nowhere near as precision as yours...yours is, as was stated, laser-cut precise!
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  35. #115
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    Thanks for the compliments. And PM replied

    I have been running Revos since the 3.3 came in 2006. That rear skid plate has to be protected with something because it wears out quickly. You can buy skid plate protectors made of Lexan or plastic or even upgrade to an aluminum or titanium rear skid plate. I'm too cheap to buy any of them so I just make my own with a piece of scrap aluminum. I make a few and change them when needed, they do last a long time especially if you only race on a dirt track.

    It's been fun. See ya.

  36. #116
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    ERBE set up sheet

    I made an ERBE set up sheet using Traxxas' set up sheet for the 3.3. You can download and print the jpg file below on a 8.5 X 14 sheet of paper or PM me your email addy to get the pdf file.

    It's been fun. See ya.

  37. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    I need help from someone with knowledge. I tried longbill76's cool way of putting a plug through the receiver box cap to make it easy to plug the Castlelink but the thing just doesn't work. Like the drawing shows, it's just a female plug that has been soldered to the MMM's receiver wire to make some sort of a Y harness. Then I just found a way to make the plug hold securely on the receiver cap. I'm frustrated because this was a lot of work and the result looks good but the Castle software will not log onto the MMM.
    USB connection status - green
    Device connection status - red

    I'm using a Spektrum DX3R receiver, I don't know if that has something to do with it. Does the MMM's receiver wire have to be disconnected from the receiver in order for the software to recognize it?



    What am I missing here? I have very good soldering skills and all of my connections are correct and secure, brown (-) wire with brown wire, orange (neutral) with orange and red (+) with red. It's very simple but it just doesn't work. I don't get it. I hope somebody can help me with this.

    I figured it out that you need to have another switch added to your receiver box that will switch both the + and signal wire going the receiver off so your receiver is not getting the + and signal from the Castle link.
    "Lead, Follow, or get out of the way"

  38. #118
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    82
    Alternatively, you could bring *two* of the connector jacks out of the Rx box, and install a 'jumper cable' when you're not using CastleLink.

    So in normal operation, you'd have a short M-M jumped between the two ports.

    Then, for CastleLink, you'd disconnect the jumper and plug into the ESC side.

  39. #119
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,226
    You know another great mod missed on this thread is one using the traxxas steel ringed knuckles... that is the first upgrade as the stock knuckles are not steel ringed (platinum revo are) and the balls pop out pretty darn easy jumping around (PS never NEVER buy the RPM front knuckles, they pop out and are a 100x worse than the traxxas stock part let alone the steel ring version. But this mod works on any knuckle obviously... anyway.. get a couple of set pins per axle and this will keep the stock pivot ball caps from ever backing out.. no need for expensive upgrade parts that don't last long Here is a sample.. just drill a small hole (just a little smaller than your set pin so it stays tight, then viola.. they never back out again, yet are removable. Just make sure when you go to drill you double/triple check the pivot ball caps tightness.. you only get ONE chance!

    Last edited by 8ight-e; 03-31-2009 at 06:56 AM.

  40. #120
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Madison, AL
    Posts
    361
    A truly spectacular project, mistercrash.

    I am envious! I'd like to extend an invitation to you: won't you join us (Revo1, afterdarkgames and myself) in the "Total Revo n00b questions" thread? We're trying to fabricate a belt-drive system that completely replaces the Revo transmission.

    I believe your expertise and skills would help our project along nicely.
    60% Warn! WooooooT!!!

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