Got my ERBE and I'm going to change a lot of things

[mistercrash]

At first I used one Traxxas screw pin with the RCM drive cups. Then I used two Traxxas screw pins on either side of the RCM drive cups. I shortened the screw pins first to be able to do that. Then I got tired of modifying screw pins and now I just put two regular grub screws with blue Locktite.

[Ola]

Ok.. Do you place the grub screw`s over the stub axle hole, or on the outside of it?

I tried on the outside, but it slips right back to the hole again hehe.. Therefor i was thinking perhaps using 4 or 5mm grub`s so they dont go so deep into the cup`s..

Atleast it would be great to find longer grub screws for them..

[mistercrash]

Yes I key them into the hole. I never paid much attention to how deep they were going in the drive cup. Yes a longer grub would take care of your concerns. I might look into longer grub screws also.

[cb6fs]

I'm planning on doing the LST XXL CVD upgrade, i've read and read your guide MC and it's been really helpful thanks.

Only problem is MRC is out of stock of their 6mm drive cups.
So i have a few questions please.

Does anyone know of another supplier of the 6mm hardened steel drive cups?
Any chance someone could please measure the drive cups length so we know what we're aiming for?

I've found Traxxas #5153R drive cups, but a previous poster stated these may be 1mm shorter than the MRC cups, can anyone please confirm or deny this?


Thanks in advance guys.



Cheers
Mark

[Shonen]

I thought the RCM cups had a M5x5 grub screw? Or is that just for the 8mm bore version? Anyway, while looking up part numbers yesterday I found that HPI makes M5x18 screw pins for the Savage XL, might wanna take a look (HPI#86095).

For the 6mm bore drive cups, you can use the Traxxas ones and they will work alright. They come with the standard screw pin setup that you're used to, since stub axles and transmission/diff shafts are identical. Not so sure on whether or not they're hardened, because the Traxxas drive cups wear much faster than my RC Monster ones. Also not sure which ones work with your particular dogbone setup, because I didn't use an E-Revo designed one. The RCM cups have a shorter 'reach' than the Traxxas ones, mostly because the Traxxas cups start further away from the screw pin.

[mistercrash]

Since my MMM died in a cloud of smoke yesterday, I decided to go ahead and try the double bearing trick to use the stock LST diff cups and see if it would work with the extended Traxxas rear arms and the stock Traxxas carriers. It fits perfectly but since I don't have an ESC, I can't try it out. But just looking at it I don't see why it wouldn't work. I'll try to take pics this weekend and maybe do the front also. This simplifies the whole process a lot and cuts down on the number of parts needed.

[cb6fs]

I thought the RCM cups had a M5x5 grub screw? Or is that just for the 8mm bore version? Anyway, while looking up part numbers yesterday I found that HPI makes M5x18 screw pins for the Savage XL, might wanna take a look (HPI#86095).

For the 6mm bore drive cups, you can use the Traxxas ones and they will work alright. They come with the standard screw pin setup that you're used to, since stub axles and transmission/diff shafts are identical. Not so sure on whether or not they're hardened, because the Traxxas drive cups wear much faster than my RC Monster ones. Also not sure which ones work with your particular dogbone setup, because I didn't use an E-Revo designed one. The RCM cups have a shorter 'reach' than the Traxxas ones, mostly because the Traxxas cups start further away from the screw pin.

Fantastic thanks.

I'd happily buy the MRC cups but they've been out of stock for a while now.

Anyone know if the MRC cups are available elsewhere?

[candy76man]

Fantastic thanks.

I'd happily buy the MRC cups but they've been out of stock for a while now.

Anyone know if the MRC cups are available elsewhere?

I assume MRC is rcmonster? Because I ordered 4 of the rcmonster 6mm cups on the 14th and received them yesterday (17th).

[Ola]

Send RCM a email about it. Last time i ordered, he had to update the internet shop for more "in stock", as he had them on the shelf

[mistercrash]

Here's a few pics to answer questions asked in here and the many questions I receive in PM.

The diffs. Pics of a stock diff case (in blue) and a modified diff case (in black)

[mistercrash]

The bulkheads. Here's a few pics of the stock bulkheads and a modified bulkhead.



If the diff cases have been modified correctly, only the area outlined needs to be Dremeled (first two pics) to accomodate for the front of the LST diffs where the screw are (third pic)

[mistercrash]

And here's a few pics of the LST diffs with the stock cups and LST CVDs. Even with second 15X21 bearing to push the CVD towards the diff, it wasn't quite enough. I needed 1 to 2 mm more so I made the holes for the pillow balls deeper in the arms and screwed the pillow balls 1 mm deeper in the arms.

[candy76man]

cool, so that is using the stock carriers? Good to know it can work.

I got a chance to run mine today for over an hour and everything held up beautifully. It's so nice to not feel like I have to hold back a little to keep something in the drive train from breaking. My inner carrier bearing shims look like they will work for the long haul too, no play at all in the fit after running today. I think if I had to do it over though I would just use two inner bearings in each carrier instead of a spacer and a bearing.


Thanks for taking the time to post on how you did all these mods MC, it would have been a lot more trial and error for me to figure it all out by myself, you make a good guinea pig

[mistercrash]

No problem. Here's my ERBE as it stands right now. No ESC, no wheels and no shocks lol. I finished the front end this afternoon.

[cb6fs]

Fantastic work, great pics and decent of you for sharing your hard work MC

Only running 4S on my 2650kv so no drive train failures yet, i really fancy having a crack at the LST drive shafts and diffs just for the of it though.





Cheers
Mark

[mistercrash]

Thanks

Now I find this very interesting. This guy from Italy made an aluminum chassis for his 1/16 E-Revo. The chassis is cool but I doubt it would hold up to off road abuse. He built it mainly for speed runs I think. What I find uber cool is the motor mount he made. The guy's a genius. By having the sliding gear mesh adjustment screw on the other side of the spur, he spread the load to a wider area which makes me think it makes this mount much stronger and stiffer. He also made a small piece that supports the bottom pivoting screw and ties it to the chassis. Brilliant! I'm tempted to make one of my own but I would extend the top part of the plates to have a second sliding adjustment screw in the stock position like the stock motor plate. That way, the motor would be supported on three points and tied down to the chassis instead of just hanging from the motor plate with two screws.
This was seen on the French forum ''Revopowaaa''
http://www.revopowaaa.com/t3113-e-re...-kazuaki#39313

[Ola]

The mount looks great, but i`m not convinced that its stronger than stock e-revo 1/10.

He has all the 400-450 grams hanging straight out on the 2x 4mm bolts, almost only supported by the diameter of the distance bushes in center of the bracket..

Stock the mount is supported all the way from top to bottom..

If he had made 2 sliders, one high and one low, so that he had 3 4mm bolts in a triangle position, i think this would be a very strong mount!

[Ola]

Now when i saw youre post on RCM (and fine-read youre post once more LOL), i see you had the same thoughts

[mistercrash]

Yes but the first drawing I made has a major flaw. I couldn't fix that because I had to go to work. The plate that would attach to the motor could not pivot over the slipper nut. So it should look more like this.

[mistercrash]

Sorry, I tried something and it didn't work.

[mistercrash]

Here's a happy update,

The MMM is back already. Well not exactly, it appears to have resuscitated into a brand new MMM from Castle.

The dead MMM was sent from Ontario, Canada to Castle Creations on Feb 18, 2011. The new MMM was in my mailbox on March 3, 2011.

TWO WEEKS!

Just two weeks it took for Castle to have me rolling again and I live up here in Canada. Once again, I am very impressed with Castle Creations, their product and their commitment to customer satisfaction.

Thank you Castle.

[GreatWhiteRevo]

did you ever have problems with the strength of the bulkheads after modifying them to fit the LST diffs?

I'm going to start this project today and want to say thanks for all the detailed pics and explanations you've provided. It should really help when I get stuck or confused.

[mistercrash]

I did not break that many bulkheads, except when I ran the Kershaw Design chassis. And the bulkheads I broke didn't even break where the material was taken off. So don't worry too much about that, if your LST diff cases have been modified correctly, there's very little material that needs to be taken off the bulkheads.

[GreatWhiteRevo]

I did not break that many bulkheads, except when I ran the Kershaw Design chassis. And the bulkheads I broke didn't even break where the material was taken off. So don't worry too much about that, if your LST diff cases have been modified correctly, there's very little material that needs to be taken off the bulkheads.

Good to know MC. I wasn't too worried, since I run the RC solutions cage, which seems to really help with the bulkhead cracking. I also noticed you were able to get those LST diffs to fit without taking as much material from the bulk, compared to the first page of this thread.

I started grinding the cases today. If possible could you confirm, did you grind down the sides of the diff case? The small circles on each side seem to stick out more on the modified cases. I outline the areas in question below in red. If so, about how much needs to come off? Thanks.

[mistercrash]

Yes I take about half a millimeter on either side. I measured the aluminum to be 2 mm thick there so leaving 1.5 mm thickness seems to work very well. Then I use a drum sander on the Dremel and round the edges. I think the pic shows well how the cases have been modified. Then the only material to remove from the bulkheads is to accommodate for the two front screw of the diff cases and the big round part where the pinion is. Don't forget to make the diff blocks, I find them important as they keep the diffs from wobbling around in the bulks completely.

[GreatWhiteRevo]

Enlighten me, what are the diff blocks? I don't remember reading about them in your previous posts, although I admit to skipping a bunch of pages.

[mistercrash]

This is what I'm talking about. I made these out of an old cutting board from the dollar store.

The front blocks


The rear blocks

[mamba max1]

I even took the diff blocks on step further. I made mine out of a 1/4" cutting board (way too thick, but on purpose) and softened them in the oven (while in the bulkheads). After removing them, I pressed the diffs into the soft cutting board pieces (bulks stayed firm). This allowed the blocks to conform around the diffs and holding them very snugly. No movement at all, even after 4 months of use.

[mistercrash]

cooking with the ERBE. Good stuff

[asheck]

cooking with the ERBE. Good stuff

I would generally have to disagree with that. Whenever I've seen E-revo's cooking, it's been bad stuff MMM V1's come to mind

[GreatWhiteRevo]

I even took the diff blocks on step further. I made mine out of a 1/4" cutting board (way too thick, but on purpose) and softened them in the oven (while in the bulkheads). After removing them, I pressed the diffs into the soft cutting board pieces (bulks stayed firm). This allowed the blocks to conform around the diffs and holding them very snugly. No movement at all, even after 4 months of use.

That is really cool!

I'm moving slow and steady on this so far. About half way done with modifying the diff cases. Stub axles will be next, then blocks and paint the cases. The stock diffs are actually holding up fine on 6s *knock on wood*. three rough 6s runs and only a broken shock cap.

[mistercrash]

Stub axles will be next

Haven't you been paying attention? No need for the stub axles now, just an extra 15X21 bearing in the carriers and drilling the table so the pillow balls go 1 or 2 mm deeper. That way you can use the stock Losi LST XXL diff cups.

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4708822

[uninterrc]

Yes I take about half a millimeter on either side. I measured the aluminum to be 2 mm thick there so leaving 1.5 mm thickness seems to work very well. Then I use a drum sander on the Dremel and round the edges. I think the pic shows well how the cases have been modified. Then the only material to remove from the bulkheads is to accommodate for the two front screw of the diff cases and the big round part where the pinion is. Don't forget to make the diff blocks, I find them important as they keep the diffs from wobbling around in the bulks completely.

what would be the best way to more accurately do this modification to the diff cases. i only have a rotary tool which i think is really hard to have an evenly finished surface

[GreatWhiteRevo]

I did see that post but I'm going to try the MIP spline cvds with the LST diffs and kershaw center dog bone. If I do end up breaking the MIP shafts, I'll probably go to the summits. Thanks for reminding me though. My friend will be doing this mod soon and already has dog bone shafts that will work fine with the stock LST cups.

[GreatWhiteRevo]

Question for anyone who has done the LST mod. What lube did you use in the diffs? I'm going to remove all the lube that was in there and I'm not sure what would be the best weight to replace it with. Should I use different weights for the spider gears and ring/pinion?

[candy76man]

Question for anyone who has done the LST mod. What lube did you use in the diffs? I'm going to remove all the lube that was in there and I'm not sure what would be the best weight to replace it with. Should I use different weights for the spider gears and ring/pinion?

You'll want to use a good quality grease for the ring and pinion gears. Diff oil would make them want to stick together and make your motor work harder, plus it would leak.

I'm not sure what weight oil to go with in the diffs though. I haven't even opened mine up yet but it feels like maybe a 30k weight diff oil that's in them from the factory. I'll likely go to something around 50k front and 70k rear when I rebuild them. I like stiff diffs

[mistercrash]

Lithium grease is a good choice for the ring and pinion. Other good quality grease can be used. Diff lube is best for the sun and planetary gears. 30k front and 10k rear is a good start. If you like stiff diffs, 50k front and 30k rear. I like 50k front and 10k rear.

[GreatWhiteRevo]

Anyone willing to give a brief explanation of how different weights effect the handling and driving characteristics of The truck? Much appreciated.

[ArmyofDarkness]

Anyone willing to give a brief explanation of how different weights effect the handling and driving characteristics of The truck? Much appreciated.

The higher the number, the heavier/ thicker the diff fluid is. Heavier fluid has the effect of making the diff semi-locked ( limited slip ) to a greater degree. Generally, heavier fluid is used in the front so that the steering is snappy, allowing the truck to be slung around corners with more ease; I cant comment on the best setups as it's as much personal taste as anything, but there are plenty of discussions to be found/ setup sheets from slayden etc. Just bear in mind that traxxas diffs only use 4 spiders vs 6 in 1/8 diffs, so you need thicker oil in the traxxas diffs to have the same effect ( fewer gears for the fluid to act on as such ).

[GreatWhiteRevo]

Leave it to AoD to come through with a quick response :P

I had a feeling that is how it worked but I was backwards on needing thinner fluid then the stock diffs. Thought I would need heavier. Glad you explained it, thanks!

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