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  1. #681
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    I didn't have any issues getting the axles into the sun gears, they went in smoothly with no problems. Since the axles are 6 mm then yes you need drive cups with a 6 mm bore.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  2. #682
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash View Post
    The stock XXL output cups are not deep enough, or should I say they don't stick out far enough for the XXL shaft to work without popping out. That is why I made my own output shafts from the stock Traxxas axles and I put a RCM drive cup on that which makes the whole thing stick out far enough for the XXL shaft to engage in deep enough to not pop out during extreme suspension movement.

    I used RCM drive cups because I know for a fact that they are extremely tough. But there are other drive cups out there that could probably be used, the extended Traxxas ones comes to mind.
    That explains it well Thanks

    I`ll order more parts soon, for sure haha

    Sometimes i wonder why i didnt get a Flux instead of rebuilding the intire driveline on this ERBE, but lets hope it`s all worth it when it`s all XXL hehe

  3. #683
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ola View Post
    Sometimes i wonder why i didnt get a Flux instead of rebuilding the intire driveline on this ERBE
    Because you'd rather bash with a lean mean racin' machine than a big fat pig of a monster truck that has its own problems.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  4. #684
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    Ok cool
    How do the gears lock onto the shaft
    R they just and interference fit and u just press them in
    Or is there a locking screw

    Thanks

  5. #685
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    Quote Originally Posted by sideshow View Post
    Ok cool
    How do the gears lock onto the shaft
    R they just and interference fit and u just press them in
    Or is there a locking screw

    Thanks
    So here's the stock axle on the right, on the left is the modified axle. Just cut off the threaded part plus about 1 mm.



    The side with the flat spots stick out the LST diffs. The side that had the threaded part go in the LST diff. There's a pin from the LST diff that goes through the hole and the sun gear keys into that pin.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  6. #686
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    ok cool that explains it perfectly
    i did know how th egears locked onto the axles
    so that 2nd hole is how
    i should have bought the losi diffs first and disassembled em to get an idea
    thansk again

  7. #687
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    Well, i`m almost done doing my 1/8 LST diff mod al MC ! Bulks and diffs are ready modded, and will be mounted as soon the paint on the diff cases are dry

    It was easyer than i thought to mod the diff case! I did cheat alittle on a belt grinder, and did the finish job with a dremel..
    Almost no modding needed to the bulk`s, but the little that has to be done, made the bulk _very_ thin on that spot (appr. 5mm diameter spot).. So i put a 3-4mm thick epoxy layer outside that spot to be sure..

    Tomorrow i`ll wrench the car back together, with stock arms/carrier/summit axles, and kershaw center dogs..
    Next step will be RPM arms/truetrack + LST dogbones! Still waiting for parts for this.

    I must say thanks to mistercrash, for the idea, and SHARING the details!
    And for those who are afraid of the amount of work, it wasnt all that bad since mistercrash did all the pre-work for us!

    So thanks MC! Youre the man

  8. #688
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    we have this product in australia called q bond
    its used for reinforcing plastic
    http://www2.blackwoods.com.au/infoBA...4226&P=2027380

    i guess should be avaliable overseas
    wonder if anyone has used it to build up plastic for more support

  9. #689
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    Quote Originally Posted by sideshow View Post
    we have this product in australia called q bond
    its used for reinforcing plastic
    http://www2.blackwoods.com.au/infoBA...4226&P=2027380
    ''Suitable for use on wood, aluminum, porcelain, ceramics, glass, rubber, ABS and rigid PVC''

    I think the Traxxas parts are fiber reinforced Nylon. Correct me if I'm wrong. So someone would have to call these guys and ask if their product would make a strong bond on Nylon.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  10. #690
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    My ERBE`s done now.. And it was alittle more work than i expected, but mostly because i ran into some minor issues

    Had to deal with the LST diff gear mesh alittle, and actually had to move the tranny 1-2mm backwards to fit the Kershaw axles perfect. It wasnt enough to mod the axle ends and diff cups
    (kershaw actually had modded the front cvd ends flat before sending them it seems)

    But it went really good, and i had fun doing the mod!

    The reinforcement plastic stuff would be interesting for sure..!
    I was thinking about using polyurethane, since i had some laying around after making some 1:1 car bushings, but i dont think it bonds well, so i just went for 12min epoxy Just put it outside the weakest spots.

  11. #691
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ola View Post
    My ERBE`s done now.. And it was alittle more work than i expected, actually had to move the tranny 1-2mm backwards to fit the Kershaw axles perfect. It wasnt enough to mod the axle ends and diff cups
    (kershaw actually had modded the front cvd ends flat before sending them it seems)
    I had the same little issue, I ended up shortening the front part of the tranny's output shaft and made a new hole for the screw pin. This brought the cup closer to the tranny case which gave enough clearance for the front dogbone. Finally, a tiny bit of Dremelling on the tranny case to keep the screw pin from rubbing on it and it all worked out.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  12. #692
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    mistercrash,

    noob here and I have a stupid question regarding lst diffs. I have followed your thread for a month or so with great interest and "uniterrc" recommended I look for the answer to a question I have in your thread but it is sooooo long....!

    I asked what the advantages were to the lst diffs. The answer was "these are 6-spider diffs, the torque spreads over 6 small gears where the stock ones only have 4 spider gears". I thought it would be a performance or reliability issue. The stock TRAXXAS diffs had reliabilkity issues in the mid 2009's but lately they have made improvements. Performance wise they are so-so but I can get very good torque and high end.

    I am always looking to improve my ERBE. Sounds like the primary improvement is more flexibility and range so to speak in gearing. Which is a nice improvement. But I am a terrible driver and snap bulkheads from bad landings routinely so hesitate to remove material from them. SO if there is not a noticeable performance improvement I guess I would not be a good candidate for the lst diff mod would I?

    by the way, AWSOME thread. You should collaborate with a couple others on here and publish a book - "E REVO Mods".
    I am their leader, which way did they go?

  13. #693
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    Thanks.

    Very little material is removed from the bulkheads if the LST XXL diff cases have been prepped correctly. I don't understand your statement about the Traxxas diffs being different from 2009 and 2010. As far as I know, the Traxxas E-Revo Brushless diffs have been the same since the ERBE was released at the end of 2008.

    What the LST XXL components bring to my ERBE is reliability. The complete 8th scale drive line is extremely tough. A tough drive line is needed to bash the truck the way I like to bash it. On 6S in rough terrain like construction fields, jumping high, landing hard sometimes. Gunning the throttle on 6S on a rough and uneven surface is very hard on the drive line. That is why I did so much to change everything passed the tranny of my ERBE. I wish Traxxas would bring the same sort of improvements to the E-Revo in a new version.

    If you like to run 6S and bash hard in dirt, sand, rocks then an 8th scale drive line will make your life much easier. Some work to make it work and then it's just play, play, play.

    If all you do is go back and forth on a soccer field on 4S or do speed runs on the street, then the stock drive line should be sufficient.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  14. #694
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    See now thats what I was looking for. Reliability IS the meat of the matter. I suspected so. I don't want to do the mod and have no idea why I am doing the mod - kapich?

    I will look closely at your posts regarding material removal on the lst diff exterior as well as the inside wall of the bulkhead.

    I guess "diffs" was a broad description. Specifically the axle shaft(s) inside the diff case's were a source of much consternation for me anyway in early versions.

    I do a little of everything. I have three ERBE's and building a fourth. One is a basher. One is an Aluminum shelf shirly that never rolls - just sits and looks pretty, the third screams on pavement. The one I am building is a KD 2.5" stretch chasis that I plan to start a build thread. Nothing nearly as in depth as you have here. Considering this mod however.

    You gave a direct answer to my question - thank you sir.
    I am their leader, which way did they go?

  15. #695
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    The one you will use to scream on pavement is the one you should keep the stock diffs in. The LST diffs use a different ratio that takes some top speed away.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  16. #696
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    I understand. Lst diffs are for racers and bashers who, with a tight slipper, want to be able to go from 15-25 MPH to 30-45MPH (or there abouts) VERY quick or quicker ;-).....right? I can see where that would be useful for me.
    I am their leader, which way did they go?

  17. #697
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    You're complicating things. LST parts make the ERBE's drive line bullet proof. It was the sole purpose of why I did it. To make the drive line stand up to as much abuse I can give it on 6S. Any other advantages it gives is just a bonus but I don't stop to think about it. I just wanted the drive line to stop breaking.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  18. #698
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    okay . . .
    I am their leader, which way did they go?

  19. #699
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    Hey MC, I'm considering using lst2 diffs and the xxl cvd's all around on my erbe and had a question. All the lst2 diffs I can find on ebay have the dogbone cups and output shaft as one piece. Do you think they will work properly with the xxl cvd's as is or should I get some of these and use the traxxas dogbone cups I already have?

    Also, I'll be using my rdracing axle carriers. From what you posted it appears the only thing I'll have to do is figure out a way to make the inner bearings fit snuggly in the carrier...am I missing anything?

    thanks!

  20. #700
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    The XXL cups are 8mm shorter then the RCM`s, so i guess you need to move the inner bearing closer to the diff by using 2 bearings, or shims, to be able to use the stock ones.. (since MC had rcm`s and only one inner bearing in those carriers)..

    And if i remember correct, the traxxas extended cups, where 1mm shorter than the RCM`s? Something like that..

    All LST diffs i`ve seen on ebay is with stock outdrives, and a stock center cvd.. I got 4 LST diffs, and they where all the same.

  21. #701
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ola View Post
    The XXL cups are 8mm shorter then the RCM`s, so i guess you need to move the inner bearing closer to the diff by using 2 bearings, or shims, to be able to use the stock ones.. (since MC had rcm`s and only one inner bearing in those carriers)..

    And if i remember correct, the traxxas extended cups, where 1mm shorter than the RCM`s? Something like that..

    All LST diffs i`ve seen on ebay is with stock outdrives, and a stock center cvd.. I got 4 LST diffs, and they where all the same.
    ok....so where do I get the stubs to convert the lst diff output from the one piece cups they come with to a standard 8mm output so i can use the 8mm cups the rcmonster sells? I found the 6mm stub replacements linked above but they are out of stock.

    I have some extra revo stub axles I can convert to 6mm diff outputs as MC did but I would prefer 8mm if possible.

    Thanks

    edit- After thinking about, do you have to use 6mm outputs on the lst diffs? if the stock output shaft is 6mm than I guess you have to stay with that size right?
    Last edited by candy76man; 02-10-2011 at 05:39 PM.

  22. #702
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    The two output shafts of the LST diffs are 6 mm. It's the input shaft of the pinion that is 8 mm.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  23. #703
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    And for the record, i just mounted up RPM true tracks with LST axles and LST diffs, using traxxas stubs and RCM cups..
    With the 15x21x4mm inner carrier bearing in it`s stock place, and this was a perfect fit!

    Havent had time to do the front yet, but i expect it to be 100% similar to the truetracks, since i`m using RPM arms and carriers there as well..

    Oh, and for the RPM pivot popping, the steel rings i had on my stock carriers fit on the RPM carrier like it was made for them
    So i`m thinking this is ment to be done when installing RPM carriers. But it`s not mentioned in the instruction (who reads it anyway lol), and they should really come with the carrier`s..
    Remains to see if they keep my pivot`s in place though.

  24. #704
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    Well, I have everything I need ordered (I think). I still may end up ordering the rcmonster 6mm diff cups if the traxxas ones I have aren't long enough but one pair are the extended cups and I will also have two extra Kershaw cups from the center dogbone kit I got since I need the 8mm cups on the diff inputs so hopefully between all those I'll have something that works. I am not using the extended rear Aarms anymore so maybe I'll be good.

    Only thing I'm not looking forward to is getting the lst diffs to fit the bulks but I've gotten some good info on doing that from MC and others on the rcmonster forums so I have a good grasp on what has to be done to make it work.

    Any tips or info thats not obvious would be greatly appreciated by the way..or maybe links to how-to's I may have missed.

  25. #705
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    Here you can see the difference between the stock LST cup, and the RCM..


  26. #706
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    Well if the Losi and STD diffs r similar widths when u take
    Cups out of the equation then the Losi cups look short
    I've redone my Losi shafts to stick closer into the rc drive cup
    By 5 or so mm
    So end of the Losi shaft sits right near end of travel without
    Binding so if u compare both drive cups my xxl shafts would
    Only just grab the Losi diff cup
    And that's with axle further in than normal
    Might be a trial and error thing

  27. #707
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    thanks for the info ola and sideshow, this convinces me I need to just go ahead and order the rcmonster cups to use on the diffs. Even if the traxxas ones work I want to be able to have a grub screw on both sides to make it one solid unit as opposed to the one sided approach traxxas uses for attaching the cups.

  28. #708
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    do u think the grub screws are better
    i lost one or two grub screws the other day
    my own fault for not using blue loctite
    so i ordered 18 traxxas grub screws and might cut the part without thread down abit like mc suggested
    and use two cut down traxxas grub screws on each drive cup
    once i get paid for afew big jobs at work ill get the losi diffs

    i grew up wasting money on performance road cars
    now i have a small family and had to get rid of the road cars for a family car
    so i discovered the revo last year and spend more money on it that what i really should
    but i love working with mechanical stuff and when u show friends how it goes their jaw drops
    anyway u cant take you rmoney with you when u go so best of spending it on somehting u can enjoy

  29. #709
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    Quote Originally Posted by sideshow View Post
    do u think the grub screws are better
    i lost one or two grub screws the other day
    my own fault for not using blue loctite
    so i ordered 18 traxxas grub screws and might cut the part without thread down abit like mc suggested
    and use two cut down traxxas grub screws on each drive cup
    once i get paid for afew big jobs at work ill get the losi diffs

    i grew up wasting money on performance road cars
    now i have a small family and had to get rid of the road cars for a family car
    so i discovered the revo last year and spend more money on it that what i really should
    but i love working with mechanical stuff and when u show friends how it goes their jaw drops
    anyway u cant take you rmoney with you when u go so best of spending it on somehting u can enjoy
    I hadn't thought of doing that with the traxxas grub screws, I probably have enough spares to do it too. Blue loctite is a necessity on them regardless though.

    The traxxas cups are only threaded for a grub screw on one side is why I don't care for them....and I have never had any luck cutting threads in hardened steel ):

  30. #710
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    u can cut threads in the losi xxl shafts which are hardened
    just ened to take it slow and even use cutting compound
    i think i got 18 traxxas grub screws for 20 bucks plus freight from fleabay

  31. #711
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    I started preparing for my stuff to get here tonight and figured I'de go ahead and figure out the carrier and bearing issue.

    I am using rd racing aluminum carriers so this only applies to those.

    I discovered that 1/2 inch pvc fits the opening the bearing will go in perfectly so I will make thin spacers out of that (easily done with a chop saw). I want my dogbones as far inside the cups as possible without binding so this will help with that while at the same time pulling the axle back a bit farther so I'll need fewer spacers between the carrier and the hub adapter. It has the added advantage of giving better support for the axle since the two bearings will be farther apart.

    I tried several things to increase the outer diameter of the bearing to fit the carrier and so far the best solution I've come up with is two rounds of aluminum duct tape on the bearing and one of scotch tape...that makes for a snug fit. If anyone has a better idea I'm all ears





    Last edited by candy76man; 02-12-2011 at 09:37 PM.

  32. #712
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    With the bearing that far out in the carrier, you should be able to use the LST cup?

    In the RPM carrier i used the stock bearing seat, and the bones where 1-2mm into the RCM cup when fully stretched A-arm, and approx 2-3mm from the bottom of the cup when the A-arm was straight out. I might shim them a bit closer like you are thinking..

    LST cup`s doesnt need grub screw`s, and i find that as a big advantage, so perhaps it might be just as good solution..
    I would think the bigger gap between the bearings in the carrier, would strengthen the axle-stub support as well?

  33. #713
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    yes thats a good idea
    if u get the right sized spacer u might not even have to redrill the holes for the 17mm hub axle grub screw
    so maybe try afew different spacers
    u might get lucky and find right spacer will sit dogbone in the right spot in the losi diff cup then the end of the losi axle might not need redrilling

    has anyone found new bearings to get abit looser after few runs
    ive driven my erevo maybe 5 times since i upgraded to losi axles and front end has play
    i made sure it wasnt pivot balls and its definately in the bearings
    is there difference with rubber and ceramic bearings
    Last edited by sideshow; 02-13-2011 at 01:29 AM.

  34. #714
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    Sure its the bearings, and not slop between bearings and carrier?

  35. #715
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    yer this is in front end which are std axle carriers
    ill go over it one of these days
    going on 2 weeks holidays in afew days pity i cant take revo with me

  36. #716
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    Quote Originally Posted by sideshow View Post
    yer this is in front end which are std axle carriers
    ill go over it one of these days
    going on 2 weeks holidays in afew days pity i cant take revo with me
    Hmm ok, strange that it happened that fast..

    Well, mine`s done now

    The setup is: LST XXL diffs with traxxas stubs, RCM drive cups, XXL axles, RPM true tracks rear, RPM arms and carriers front, and kershaw center dogbones with RCM drive cups on the diff`s!

    I have tried alot of different setups with drivecups and bearings in the carriers now, but the best solution for me, was to use both 21mm AND 24mm inner bearings like Sideshow did.. This made the axles ALMOST bind into the cups, so i adjusted my pivot`s alittle more out (i can now see 2 threads on the pivot`s).. I still gott alittle neg camber rear, so it`s ok for me..
    And for now, i used approx 6mm spacers on the outside instead of drilling a new hole. I got it pretty tight, so i think it`ll work out great!

  37. #717
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    I plan to run mine with spacers between the hub adapter and carrier as well, I like the idea of a little wider stance anyway...fewer rollovers.

    As for using the lst cups...that would be ideal and I plan to see if that will work before changing them but I will be surprised if it does work. I can let the inner bearing drop in the depth that the spacer pushes it out now to adjust dogbone spacing in the cup but it is at the maximum the other way so I can't get it any closer.

    Ola, I agree about the better support for the axle with the bearings farther apart....I have never liked how close the two bearings are on the traxxas carriers so that is a plus to me.

  38. #718
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    the slop of the bearings won't make a difference what it's made out of, just the tolerances of its dimensions. ceramic bearings will probably be higher quality, but it's not just cause it's ceramic. My 99c bearings work fine for me.

    also, it's quite a few posts back but regarding drive cups...I use the Traxxas extended cups off the Revo's transmission for my center dogbone setup, and they are not that good...I would recomment only using them if you need to have the 'close' type of cup clearance (vs. the RCM's 'far'). My Traxxas cups are wearing about 4-5x faster than the RCM ones.

  39. #719
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    Ola, Im using dual 24mm bearings in the rpm carrier to make the lst shaft reach in completly in the output that comes with the diffs ( yes it works perfectly Shonen ).

    My question is, how good does your 24mm bearings fit inside the rpm carrier? Mine has some minor slope, a 24.5 bearing would be a perfect fit, or maybe a 25mm and press it in. Im using one thin layer of tape to get rid of the slope, how about yours?

  40. #720
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    Hey MC, did you use the stock hex "bolts" on the RCM 6mm cups, or did you use the traxxas bolts that runst trough the cups and axle stub?

    I used 2 hex`s that fit the stock RCM threads, one on each side ofcourse, but i dont like how they sit on the stub since the stub has a holse trough it... They kinda sits _very_ deep into the cup, being alittle short.
    I`m thinking about the need for bigger hex bolts so that they done enter the hole in the stub, but i dont know if it`s necessary..

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