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  1. #641
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    sideshow

    I use the cheapest black rubber sealed bearings from Avid. I have been using those for a long time and I get good long life out of them. And I prefer to run bearings with good rubber seals on both sides in an off road bashing truck. IMHO, ceramic bearings with one seal are good for hardcore on road racers, or for someone trying to beat the E-Revo speed record.

    Manne

    Yes the E-Revo is still doing well hanging from the garage wall The snow has arrived up here and I'm pretty much done for the winter. Unlike last year, I won't run my truck in the snow very often. The diff cases of the LST diffs are a tiny bit different each time so the shimming is done accordingly. Either on the ring gear, the pinion or both.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 11-27-2010 at 08:43 AM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  2. #642
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    Ok thanks for the answer Mc! Hehe yeah the snow... We already have seven inch of snow... On with the paddels and out we go!

  3. #643
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    yes we should get together
    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash View Post
    Kitchener eh! We are neighbors. There must be others in the area that play with RC. We should all get together.

    I started working on the new chassis towers I want to make the Kershaw chassis even stiffer and stronger. I decided to use carbon fiber since I already had this 4.5 mm sheet lying around. I cut 20 strips 10 mm wide then I stacked them up using epoxy to glue them together which makes two stiff solid carbon fiber blocks. After the epoxy cured, I trimmed the blocks and sanded them square. The end result is two solid carbon fiber blocks, 42 mm high by 8.9 mm thick. Once these chassis towers are done and installed on the Kershaw chassis, there will be a picture of it beside the definition of ‘’rigid’’ in the dictionary. It will be a PAIN to cut, drill and machine these blocks but I’ll git er done.



    I think I mentioned before that a sheet of carbon fiber 3 mm thick is coming my way to make a new lower chassis plate. This chassis is going to be sweet. The more I look at it, the more I like it. I like the simplicity of it. Other than the hardware, there’s only 4 pieces to it, the top and bottom plates and the two chassis towers. More to come as I will start to disassemble the ERBE again to make those towers and the new bottom plate. I will probably wait ‘till the snow comes since I am still bashing my ERBE and having fun with it.

  4. #644
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    hey mc got some info for u

    i got 2 losi shafts and some bearings from ebay

    well tonight i decided to see how they would go on my erevo with rpm true tracks on the rear
    well the inside larger bearing just pushes straight in no probs
    the outer bearing is just bigger id say about 1mm bigger
    so all i got to do is enlarge out hole similar to what u said
    i know the true tarcks had alot of slop so once this is done i hope to eliminate most of the slop
    ive ordered the drive cups and the rear end will be done as ill goto work tomorrow and do the machining stuff

    ive also ordered 8mm drive cups just incase i upgrade to 8mm diffs
    the postage to australia is bad enough so y not order 4 lots of 6mm cups and 4 of the 8mm just incase

  5. #645
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    That's cool. I know a lot of people like the true tracks so it's nice to know that the LST shafts can be used with them. There's another guy that managed to find 8X15 outer bearings for the true tracks eliminating the need to enlarge the hole. He said they were hard to find.

    On another note, I recently found where my PMs are lol. If anyone was wondering why I wasn't answering, I just didn't see them.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 12-05-2010 at 09:07 AM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  6. #646
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIG-block View Post
    Mistercrash how do you think this setup would go with the Tekno carriers? I was thinking of using them as they come with a larger front bearing with a 8mm hole in it already. That would eliminate two thirds of the work providing the rear bearing can be made to fit the Tekno carriers. Any thoughts?
    Also a friend told me I can have a set of Losi hex adapters he has spare so that might make things even easier but the Tekno Carriers come with 17mm hexes too (if they are a good idea). I like the RD Logic ones two but I can't find them anywhere with reasonably priced shipping so wasn't that keen on them.
    I too am curious about how the Tekno carriers would work with LST shafts. I was going to use the Tekno carriers with a hybrid summit/revo shaft but after test fitting the hybrid shaft, I am no longer sure it will be strong enough.



    I do however still like the idea of the Tekno carriers, since I am building my E-Revo from scratch and have no stock carriers yet, I may have to be the guinea pig on this one. I am a bit confused however, is the Tekno carrier a single bearing set up? how can that be better if it is?

    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash View Post
    I won't run my truck in the snow very often.
    Have you tried those plow boys tires in the snow? being a soft compound crawler tire and the paddle like tread I would think they would be the ultimate snow tire. I actually have a set coming in the mail for my summit, which were custom cut and resized to fit a HPI blast wheel and be 7" tall outer diameter.
    Last edited by quadiak; 12-05-2010 at 01:03 PM.
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?536733

  7. #647
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ajb1205's Avatar
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    The Tekno carriers use the same size inner bearing as the Traxxas carriers. It is just the outer bearing that is different due to the larger stub axle diameter.
    Vantage/MMM/1515 Revo
    MMM/1518 Revo
    T-Maxx 3.3

  8. #648
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajb1205 View Post
    The Tekno carriers use the same size inner bearing as the Traxxas carriers. It is just the outer bearing that is different due to the larger stub axle diameter.
    They only show it including one bearing and look at how deep the stub end is recessed into the carrier in this pic.
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?536733

  9. #649
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    I really doubt that a 15X21 inner bearing can be inserted inside the Tekno carrier. It looks like there's just enough room for the 12X18 stock bearing and not even enough material to bore it out to 21 mm.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  10. #650
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ajb1205's Avatar
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    There is only the one bearing included because you use the stock inner bearing (can't remember the actual size and it's a bit too late to remove the carrier to check).
    If I have time tomorrow I will pull one apart and verify.
    Vantage/MMM/1515 Revo
    MMM/1518 Revo
    T-Maxx 3.3

  11. #651
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    its amazing how much slop is now gone by fitting these losi xxl axles
    got new bearings and on inside it squeezed on easily
    outisde i ended up getting a step drill
    nasically its a drill bit that has about 10 sizes and each size is a step and they go bigger in 2mm increments
    i used a metric one and on the 16mm step using my hand i twisted it in slowly and after 5 turns was all done
    took 5 minutes to do both sides and zero slop

    http://www.kingdomtools.co.uk/power_...ll_PL_230.html
    u can see the step drill in brass

    much better improvement to the slop i had using the true tracks now the true tracks have no movement
    and one i drill the hex hubs to 8mm and no thread to worry bout like on old shafts it should be perfect

  12. #652
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    I also noticed how the slop was gone after I put on the LST XXL shafts. I also think that the suspension seems smoother but that might just be in my head. Good idea with the metric step drill, if I decide to put LST XXL shafts on my son's E-Revo, I will try that.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  13. #653
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    hey mc why did u put a small alloy washer between the hub and the axle carrier

  14. #654
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    Because when I bored my Traxxas hexes to 8 mm, it took away the little lip they had that sit on the inner race of the carrier's bearing. That washer is there to keep the hex from rubbing on the outer race of the bearing.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  15. #655
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    hey mc
    i got the losi shafts in my true tracks all done now

    did u use the orig grub screw or another type to suit the 3mm hole u said u drilled
    i used a 7.9 drill to bore out the 17mm hex hubs and they were very tight
    so i put drill in a vice and gently turned hex hub abit till it enlarged hole slightly
    then keep testing till it was a snug fit and had to tap them on
    zero slop at moment

    i just have to drill the grub screw hole then i can put the rear end together
    i bought cheap 60 dollar lipos
    the 2s one stuffed up after i launched the revo 15 feet hi off a motox jump
    so im not game to use the 3s of similar brand again
    i checked the hiperion site and there is one in australia
    so ill save up and get some 2s and 3s hyperion lipos

  16. #656
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    If you're talking about the grub screw that goes inside the axle to lock the pin that goes through the hex, I used the original that came with the LST XXL shafts. But since the 3 mm hole I made for the hex pin requires that the grub screw go further in the axle, I had to make deeper threads in the axle with a tap. I think it's M5 threads IIRC. You'll have to check the threads of the grub screw to make sure.
    You're cheap lipo that stuffed after a big jump, it was because of the impact right? I didn't notice much difference in the power of my cheap lipos and the Hyperions. The Hyperions do seem to have a bit more power but maybe it's just in my head. The difference I see is in the heat that both kinds of lipos generate. The Hyperions go through a hard cycle and come out much cooler than the cheap lipos thus showing better performance and should yield much longer life. I really don't think that any kind of soft case lipo is better then another on hard impacts though. The only thing we can do about that is use hard case lipos or stuff any space inside the battery compartment with dense foam to soften the blows.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  17. #657
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    Ok thanks
    I didn't see any grub screws in the bag with the axles
    Maybe I threw them out hehehe
    I'll go check my box of rubbish

    Thanks for info

  18. #658
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    i checked the old packaging and no grub screws in it
    i could only get a pair of liso shafts 2 weeks ago thats y the rears are only done
    last week i found a full set of losi shafts on ebay so they are coming this week
    maybe these will have them in the set
    otherwise ill goto lhs and get a set

  19. #659
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    Man this thread is getting so close.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  20. #660
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    Even closer now.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  21. #661
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    Close to what?
    http://www.youtube.com/user/Revoman859

  22. #662
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    hey mc my drive cups look slightly different to yours but seem to fit ok
    the axles dont sit most of the way into the cup but im guessing they should be fine
    here is a pic


    also here are my newish set of tyres
    they are strong and dont ballon but i hate the fat edge because when i glued them its very hard to get the outer edge perfectly round so i might use them for 4s and get some other tyres and rims that dont have alot of overhang on the rim maybe a set of mashers or similar



    ive only done the rear as im still waiting for other pair of losi axles then fit them in then
    ill sort out a new set of lipos in new year then sort out tyres
    but doing exactly what i said was very easy just make sure u centre punch spot when drilling the axle because
    its round the drill bends if it doesnt locate properly
    Last edited by sideshow; 12-18-2010 at 08:53 PM.

  23. #663
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    The axle in the diff cup looks ok to me. When you bring that pin vertical, the end pointing up should still be at least a couple millimeters inside the cup, not right on the edge.

    Yes Conrad, it's getting closer. Shouldn't be too long now. Maybe before the end of the week.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  24. #664
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    BOOM! 200 000 views. Maybe I should put this in my Résumé
    It's been fun. See ya.

  25. #665
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    Congrats and thanks for all the info you have shared...On to 300K
    Never do anything half fast. Hey Ya'll, watch this

  26. #666
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    Wonder which mod im doing soon......3rd run on this shaft...


    Tekin RX-8 ERBE
    MC 1/8th scale Center Diff

  27. #667
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    Oh geez! lol It looks like it melted in the oven.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  28. #668
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    Hey congrats on the 200k views MC, I'm sure 100 of those were from me so your welcome...
    BTW about that water resistant shroud for the e revo, AOD posted a link to one that's very similar to Outerwears material. Its made by a small company in the UK and listed on ebay if your interested. I ordered a set and at under 30$ for 2 its a heck of a deal, hope it hold the h2o and dust out well. I can't post the link as I'm on my smart phone but its listed in a current thread about outerwears & Masher 2000's...
    BTW as I was writing this I realized we were discussing the shroud in your long live the Revo thread so sorry for posting info here....
    That's Just How I Roll ««o==o>

  29. #669
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    hey mc
    got all my shafts done now all is good
    i read thru some post and found some link to some kershaw design revo centre steel dogbone set
    what r the chances of them fitting the revo when u fit losi 1/8 difs to the revo
    because they have the correct ends to fit the centre drive cups on the losi diffs

    once i get my 3s lipos ill save some cash and get another set of frnt n rear bulkheads and some losi 1/8 diffs
    and get them fitted to the new bulkheads so i dont have the revo off the road for to long

  30. #670
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    The Kershaw center dogbone kit comes with everything needed to install on the the stock E-Revo diffs. Those diffs have an input shaft of 6 mm. The LST diffs have an input shaft of 8 mm so either get drive cups that have an 8 mm bore or drill two of the Kershaw ones to fit on the LST diffs.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  31. #671
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    ok thanks again
    when i got the 6mm drive cups for the lst shafts i bought 4 x 8mm drive cups for the future
    so i can use them on the centre ones if i goto losi diffs with 8mm shaft

    its nearly 2am so i better go get some rest
    i spent past 3 hours fiddlying with the centre diff section
    my 54t gear was running not true to centre so i pulled it apart
    found the circular plate that it bolts to is abit weak and if the slipper is done up super tight
    then this plate which also pushes on the 3 disc pads bends slightly not sure if this is why my gear was not running true but i tried all different ways of fitting gear and got it much better mind u it was only slightly out but im trying to find why i have a ticking noise

    also when i tighten the motor locking bolt when u adjust the play well the motor goes out of parallel with the rest fo the centre diff
    so i looked at the plastic swivel where the motor slides onto and theres a slight gap where motor moves away from its mount
    so to fix this ill do what big block and others have done and put a bolt all way thru the swivel then put nut on end to bolt it down
    but without it motor looks like its on a bad angle so once i sort that out i can remount my rear motor mount

    anyway ill get some losi diffs soon and some bulkheads and look at fitting them and the dogbones
    then i might sit down and see how to brace front and rear end

    goodnight all

  32. #672
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    If you see that the motor still seems crooked even after installing that extra screw on the plastic swivel block, then either the motor plate or the motor mount or both are bent. When I modified my plastic swivel block, I put threaded brass inserts in it so that I can torque those screws pretty tight with less fear of stripping the threads. Works really well. I always use the kind of insert that screws in the plastic, not the ones that are pushed in. The ones that screw in have very large and coarse threads on the outside that bite really strongly in the plastic. I threads them in, then thread them out, put a drop of CA in the hole in the plastic part then thread the insert back in. The inserts that are pushed in just have a knurled surface and they don't bite strong enough in the plastic, even with CA. It's no fun when you want to take apart something and the insert starts turning in the plastic with the screw.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 01-07-2011 at 09:25 AM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  33. #673
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    i recon my eyes are playing up hehe
    u know when u keep looking at simething it eventually looks crooked
    i fitted longer bolt on the motor swivel with big washer on other end
    i wonder if that black plastic swivel is bent slightly would one out of alloy be ok
    or do they have plastic so it absorbs the shock

    when i had everything stripped i sat the blue motor mount late on a flat table
    it seemed ok but like i said looking at it by eye it looks very slightly bent but hard to say casue eyes go funny after time heheheh
    i went into work but could not find the set square so came home and put it all back together
    once i had the rear motor mount bolted up it looked abit mroe straighter than it was yesterday
    if noise is still there ill wait till i get the centre dogbones and look at diffs
    what i did find is the grub screw pins in the rc monster drive cups come loose easy because they have a thread each side
    rather than a thread one side and tiny locating hole on the other for the pin i guess this is ok but means all the twisting load
    is taken by one side of the grub screw not shared 50 50 per side

  34. #674
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    Two regular grub screws can be used on the RCM drive cup, secured with blue Locktite, they will make for a very strong hold on the diffs' output shafts. I also used modified stock screw pins, I would shorten the part that goes through the output shafts enough to be able to put one on either side of the RCM drive cup, but I thought two regular grub screws would be fine and less complicated so that's what I use now.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  35. #675
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    ok thanks
    u must go over evry mod u do and really look at best way to do things
    very good engineeering
    u should work for traxxas in designing their next erevo

  36. #676
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    This thread rocks..!

    I`m about to start modding, as i got the xxl diffs, kershaw axles and rcm coupler`s in the mail today..

    But one question... Has anyone tried to use traxxas steel axles (for the wheels), with just the stock xxl diff couplers and traxxas couplers on the hub/carrier? Will it work, or doesnt the traxxas axles fit the xxl coupler`s?

    I guess i`m still going with summit axles and modded diff outdrive`s like mistercrash did first, but i was just thinking this might work too..

  37. #677
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    Are you talking about the Traxxas CVDs and inverting them? I'm not clear on this.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  38. #678
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    Hmm i was thinking wrong there..

    Forget anything i said about traxxas cvd`s


    BUT the XXL drive shafts.. If i go for them in the first place now, i guess i`m all good running stock outdrive cups on the xxl diffs then?
    That would save some work AND parts (rcm 6mm cups)

    Are the shaft length`s good enough to use on both stock revo arms, and true track rpm`s? (in NOT buying extended arms)
    Last edited by Ola; 01-08-2011 at 04:37 PM.

  39. #679
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    The stock XXL output cups are not deep enough, or should I say they don't stick out far enough for the XXL shaft to work without popping out. That is why I made my own output shafts from the stock Traxxas axles and I put a RCM drive cup on that which makes the whole thing stick out far enough for the XXL shaft to engage in deep enough to not pop out during extreme suspension movement.

    I used RCM drive cups because I know for a fact that they are extremely tough. But there are other drive cups out there that could probably be used, the extended Traxxas ones comes to mind.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 01-08-2011 at 06:39 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  40. #680
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    hey mc i looked thru yr pics
    are the traxxas axles a press fit into the xxl side gears
    and do u use 6mm rcm drive cups

    i have 4 spare 8mm rcm drive cups
    ill use them for the centre dogbones
    and ill order 6mm ones for xxl diffs

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