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  1. #161
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    Polyquest 4S lipos

    I decided that racing with 4S will be the hot ticket for me after good advice from many and my personal experience running and experimenting with 4S, 5S and 6S. I presently have one pair of ***** 4S 3500 mah, they are very good for bashing and fooling around but for racing I want the best so I ordered a pair of Neu XP 3900 mah 4S1P 25C/50C that were on sale. I wanted the 4300 mah but they have only one left and plan to restock by mid to end of May only.
    I am looking at these Polyquest 4500mAh 4S 30C - 50C and am hoping that they get them back in stock shortly, the dimensions are 170x30x45mm. It seems a bit tight with the 170 mm. Since the pack looks rounded at both ends, it might fit, has anyone tryed those packs, can someone tell me if they will fit?
    Last edited by mistercrash; 04-08-2009 at 11:42 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  2. #162
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    Kershaw Design Heavy Duty Slipper Spring

    I received it this morning, I will not install it on my ERBE. I will not comment any further on it until I get a response from Dan, I emailed him about the spring.

    Here's a couple pics of the Kershaw spring versus the stock one.



    I re installed the stock spring but with the two TRA5352X concave washers that are used for the 3.3 Revo's slipper clutch. I put on the washers like this ''()'' and then the spring and nut. So it's like this: ()///[]. I believe the spring serves more as a spacer for the nut and it is the concave washers that make it possible to adjust the slipper tension strong enough for the MMM's power.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  3. #163
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    I was running the ERBE on 6S today and noticed that the truck was wheelying more than usual and there was no more unloading to the front wheels anymore. I brought it back home and the center diff was not functioning properly, it was not ''diffing''. I took the CD out and it looks like it is seized, I opened it and aside from the diff lube being a little gray because of the gears seating, everything seemed fine. I put everything back together and the diff will not budge. I am missing something and I can't figure out what it is. I just installed the stock ERevo CD I had as a spare and will run that until my parts arrive to make another 8th scale center diff but this time, I am making it with parts for the Thunder Tiger S3 buggy center diff. These are the parts that were used by CowboyRay when he made the first 8th scale CDs for the nitro Revo. They are the parts I used to make the 8th scale CD for my 3.3 Revo and I never had any issues with that CD.

    I went a little crazy ordering stuff for the racing season that will start in May. I ordered:

    - The parts needed to make that Thunder Tiger Buggy center diff
    - a new Traxxas receiver box
    - 17, 22 and 23 pinions from RC Monster (I already have 18, 19, 20 and 21)
    - M3 aluminum and Titanium screws and M4 Aluminum screws. I'm going to replace as many screw as I can on non high stress areas.
    - Stock motor mount, motor plate and gear cover (Got them for $6 shipped on ebay, I need the gear cover)
    - Complete stock steering assembly including steering arm, servo saver and a complete set of hinge pins (got those for $10 shipped on ebay)
    - Panther Pythons with Traxxas dish wheels and Trinity two stage Maxx inserts
    - Proline Badlands with Rulux Half Ups LPR 1/2 inch offset (for bashing)
    - AKA Racing Pre Mounted City Block 1/8 Truggy Tires (medium)
    - 2 ***** 5000 mah 3S1P 30C (for bashing and blowing CDs )
    - 2 ***** 5000 mah 4S1P 30C
    - 2 NEU 3900XP 4S1P V1 (they were on sale)

    Gotta go hide those invoices before the wife sees them.

    I also made a small change to my battery doors following candy76man's instructions. It allows for slightly bigger packs to fit. Here's candy76man's post on the subject.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 04-11-2009 at 09:24 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  4. #164
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    Some other must have items when racing...

    • shock and rod ends
    • a-arm set (typically front lower that breaks)
    • set of push rods
    • may want some proline LPR crimefighters (maybe holeshots depending on your track)

  5. #165
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    Thanks 8ight,
    I already have all of those parts from my nitro Revo spare parts box (except the Hole Shots)
    It's been fun. See ya.

  6. #166
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    I've found the crimefighters on the erevo to be the best all around racing tire for lap times... I mentioned the hole shots because if you have a super hard clay surface as those maybe a little better.

    I'm excited for race season too!! Got my duckies all in order except for my spare MMM esc, I sent in my v2 for a v3 but as soon as that gets back I'm golden Plenty of everything, just need to race!!

  7. #167
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    Carbon fiber chassis

    I sent an email not too long ago to Vantage Racing asking them if they had any plans to make a chassis for the ERevo like they do for the nitro Revo. They answered no. Maybe they look at the Nylon composite ERevo chassis and think that it would be too difficult and too costly to make it out of carbon fiber. I think too that it would be way too difficult to make a CF chassis that looks like the stock one. So I thought of the many conversion that people do to their nitro Revos and thought, that aluminum chassis has always been really tough and good for the nitro Revo. So why not an aluminum chassis for the ERevo but with a battery on either side. Not two batts on one side like the conversions. I came up with this. Wings on either side for one servo, the MMM towards the front and two plastic battery boxes bolted to the wings. Boxes much like the ones sold by RC Monster.



    And since it is a simple knock off the 3.3 aluminum chassis, I thought that it would be easier to make one out of CF. So I sent this drawing to Vantage Racing to ask what they think about it.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  8. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    Thanks for clarifying this Ground loop and making it simple to understand for a guy like me. So some kind of a switch would have to be installed on the receiver cover and wired so that by flicking it to one side it can cut the power to the receiver and only bring it to the ESC for programming. Flicking the switch back to the other side would bring back the power to both receiver and ESC. This is starting to be a lot of work just so that I don't have to take two screws to access the ESC wire inside the box. I'll use my time to play with the truck instead
    Thanks again this was very good info.

    Maybe I can use a zip tie on one side of the receiver cover as a hinge, in the hole for one of the two screws and on the other side, find a thumb screw to securely close the receiver box. One thumb screw only and no tool needed to open the receiver box to access the ESC wire. Maybe a new mod to do while my lipos are recharging.

    For an update in general about all the mods that have been done on this ERBE, the drive train is running smooth as silk, the front and rear diffs are awsome and strong, I don't think they will ever be a problem, the Summit shafts are still holding and don't show any significant amounts of slop or wear. The center diff does it's job in preventing wheelies although on 6S, wheelies do happen sometimes but the CD really helps in controlling them. Again on 6S the CD unloads quite a bit sometimes to the front but that is to be expected with such power from the MMM. The slipper clutch pad is great, it really does a great job absorbing shocks to the drive train and the CF really holds up to very high amounts of heat. The ''no slop, no Locktite'' Ofna adapters are doing very well. I have tested these for a long time but only on my 3.3. I am now dealing with a very different and so much more powerful beast. The adapters proved to be awsome even with the abuse of the MMM.

    That's it for now, batteries are almost done charging.
    i used a 3" extension from receiver to outside of the box then i can unplug mmm from receiver and plug castle link right there!

  9. #169
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    That is a good and simple way of doing it. But I don't want a plug sticking out of my receiver box, My thumb screw is working great for now so I'm sticking with that. Once I have the set up I want for the MMM and when I start racing on 4S exclusively, I should stop changing things three times a day

    A little update on the email I sent to Vantage Racing. it didn't take them long to answer and apparently, something is coming for the ERevo in the form of a bundle with Vantage Racing and Tekno RC parts. I don't know what it is but it will be interesting to see what they come up with. here's the answer I got from Vantage racing.

    ''Hi Raymond,


    Thank you for the extraordinary effort and support you are giving us. We are working very closely with Tekno RC to bundle up with their product which is very similar to what you have drawn. www.teknorc.com


    Vantage Racing Inc.
    ''
    It's been fun. See ya.

  10. #170
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    I received some parts yesterday, Thunder Tiger parts for a new 8th scale center diff and Badland tires with Rulux half ups LPRs. The thumbnail of the completed CD will take you to the Thunder Tiger center diff album in my Photobucket account so you can view all the pics. It is not yet installed but I can't wait because the Traxxas ERevo CD unloads like crazy to the front even with diff lube that is thicker than 500k.



    I installed the Badlands on the oversized LPR wheels and what a pain it was but the result is fantastic. I also taped the tires with Gorilla tape and balanced the wheels. No vibrations and absolutely no ballooning even with the ERevo CD unloading too much. I found that when the front tires do not balloon, the truck has much less of a tendency to wheely.

    It's been fun. See ya.

  11. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    I will not comment any further on it until I get a response from Dan, I emailed him about the spring.
    Did you ever get a response from Dan, and if so do you wish to comment any further on the spring?

  12. #172
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    Dan gives great customer service, he suggested that I return the spring for a full refund. And informed me that he is working on an updated heavy duty spring for the ERevo slipper. I check his website regularly for this new spring to be released.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  13. #173
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    Rear skid plate protector

    I made a new rear skid plate protector much like the one I made long ago for my 3.3 Revo. It's just a piece of 1/16'' thick steel. It wraps around the rear portion of the skid plate and goes under the middle skid plate with a screw and nut for added strength. The other one I made earlier was out of a 3 mm thick aluminum chassis and was too thick. It grabbed when the rear end would bottom out flipping the rear end upwards and the truck often ended on its lid. This plate is much thinner and as I have experienced on my 3.3, the longer surface makes it slide instead of grabbing. I could've painted it black but this thing will wear to bare metal in a hurry so I just left it like it was.

    On a side note, those mud flaps made of a hard rubber are the best ones I have ever used. They are way better than plastic or Lexan, strong enough to hold their shape but flexible enough to not break or crack. They are perfect.

    Last edited by mistercrash; 04-16-2009 at 12:19 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  14. #174
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    Bulkheads

    I was hoping it wouldn't happen but it did, a front bulkhead cracked yesterday after a few large jumps. The rear ones are still fine. Was it really because there was some material removed to fit the LST2 diffs? Maybe. But they were really big jumps and I was landing the truck on all four wheels from ten to 12 feet up in the air. Anyway, I decided to redo the whole thing differently. Instead of removing material from the bulkheads to make them fit around the LST2 diffs, I removed material from the LST2 diff casings to make them fit inside the bulkheads. This way, only a very small amount of plastic had to be removed from the bulkheads (smaller than the tip of your pinky) just to make room for the portion of the diff casing on either side of the middle output shaft, where the screws go to close the diff casing. I'll be trying this out and will report later.

    It's been fun. See ya.

  15. #175
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    yeah all that wrong with the stock diffs are that the cases flex. and it needs to be shimmed. and aluminum cases help

  16. #176
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    Remember my parallel harness with the jumper plug?



    I did this to the jumper plug to make it super easy to unplug it without pulling on the wire.



    I know it's not much of a big thing but I gotta find new stuff to post in here to keep the thread on the first page

    For a bit of an update, that new Thunder Tiger S3 center diff is working extremely well. Much better than the Ofna one I had before. It is much smoother and consistent. The slipper is still doing it's job and holding, the Summit shafts are still tight and solid, the swaybars are doing very good, the mud flaps are the best I have used, the Ofna adapters, well I knew these would work, the LST2 diffs are fantastic, I need more run time to test with the new bulkheads that were practically unmodified.
    I received two 3900 mah 4S1P 30C/50C Neu lipos and they are very good. I can't detect any difference in the power they give compared to my ***** 4S 3500 mah but the run time is better.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  17. #177
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    Cool

    HI!... Great job "MISTERCRASH"!!!!! Thanks again for the tip on the CF slipper clutch. The CF should be here any day. I also bought a slipper clutch eliminator anf going to try that out as well.

  18. #178
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    AMB Personal Transponder

    The carbon fiber cover plate that covers the hole in the chassis left by the single steering conversion is where I decided to mount my PT for racing. I made a big notch in the cover plate because the AMB Personal Transponder does not always transmit well through carbon fiber.



    Here is the AMB PT mounted in the truck with aluminum screws and nylon nuts and from underneath, the notch lets the PT transmit clearly to the AMB track loop.



    I want to let everyone know that Dan Kershaw from Kershaw Design gives very good customer service, his products are very good and if for whatever reason you are not satisfied, he will do whatever it takes to work it out with you and make things right. This was my experience with him and I will check on his website often for new products and buy with confidence. His new chassis for the ERevo looks very interesting.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  19. #179
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    An interesting post from Tim Roberts on Revo-World about tires. If anyone ever wondered why I love Panther Pythons on TRX dish wheels with Trinity Maxx inserts, it's because I took Tim's advice on the Panther Pythons a long time ago and they are the best tires I have raced with.

    From Tim Roberts, Factory driver for Traxxas
    ''I have been racing with the Python MS for the last 3 years at any and all types of tracks accross the country and have yet to find one track that they aren't the best at. Loam, sand, hardpack, clay, dusty, wet, smooth, choppy... whatever you've got they will work. I do not like the S or C compounds, just the MS. For me it make packing tires for travel races really easy. Just bring one set.

    The Response PRO is like 99% of the Python performance, IMO. Likewise it works on every track we go to. It is the only tire Slayden and Bataille run on their Revos, and Slayden is sponsored by Pro-line! One big benefit of them is the factory inserts are good. Personally, I use them for practice, club races, or smaller events. In back-to-back testing my fast lap with a Response PRO is usually a .1-.2 quicker than the Python, but my average time tends to be a little slower. The only thing about the Response PRO I don't like is how the tire breaks away at the limit. It tends to feel a little vague and can cause you to blow the occasional corner. I've found that softening the springs 1-2 rates when using the PRO's does help this quite a bit though.

    Honestly either tire is a safe bet no matter where you race.
    ''
    It's been fun. See ya.

  20. #180
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    I am very tempted to do something that would get me in trouble with the wife. Get a new Kershaw V2 chassis. Dan Kershaw tells me that the drawing shown below and taken from his site is not the final rendering of the chassis, there have been a couple changes done to it and the final design should be posted on his site in a few days.



    I emailed Dan a pic of the changes I would like on the chassis and he told me that there wouldn't be any problems doing those changes for a small fee on top of the price. Here's what I sent him and he tells me that some of the changes he brought to his chassis look similar to what I drew in this pic. So I'm waiting to see that final rendering of the Kershaw V2 chassis on the Kershaw website to make a decision on whether I buy one or not.



    Should I?????????
    Last edited by mistercrash; 04-22-2009 at 09:17 AM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  21. #181
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. nitrostarter's Avatar
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    I've been looking at these as well for my 2.5 conversion. I just don't know if I want to shell out aother $200....
    Emaxx- truggy/CD conversion...

  22. #182
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    Very nice upgrade and might be good to ask for an early birthday/Father's Day/Christmas gift combined (or just don't tell your wife). My wife doesn't ask how much everything costs, but will take her with me to the local hobby shop when purchasing body clips, spur gears, paint, tire glue or other dollar items so she sees it is really not THAT expensive.

    Great post, please keep us updated!

  23. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrostarter
    I've been looking at these as well for my 2.5 conversion. I just don't know if I want to shell out aother $200....
    It's about half the price of what the GorillaMaxx chassis' used to be, it is different but seems to give the same attributes as the GorillaMaxx i.e. Lower CG, stiffness, light weight and very tough, room for bigger lipos etc.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  24. #184
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    What exactly is heat treated aluminum. I like this design for sure.

  25. #185
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    I think it's a process to make the aluminum stiffer and stronger, maybe an aluminum guru can chime in on this.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  26. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    I think it's a process to make the aluminum stiffer and stronger, maybe an aluminum guru can chime in on this.

    I may get one if it works out well for you. the main thing I like is more space for bigger lipos.

  27. #187
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    I received those ***** ********* 5000mAh 4S1P 30C lipos this morning. candy76man, I know you managed to stuff those 5000 mah *****s in your ERBE but I cannot get them to go inside far enough to close the doors. They don't fit at all. That Kershaw chassis is extremely tempting right now because I could run with those batts.

    I also received the aluminum and titanium screws I ordered. I ordered M3 and M4 screws but they made a mistake and sent M3 screws only. So I swapped all the M3 screws I could for now, Aluminum anywhere I can and titanium in areas that need more strength. I emailed them so that they send me those M4 screws because there's a few places that aluminum M4 screws could be used. For now, the M3 screws I installed shaved off 24 grams of weight from the truck.

    I replaced the Tekno rear swaybar I was using, although they worked very well, with the Traxxas rear swaybar. The turnbuckles going over the shocks with the Tekno system were rubbing on my parallel harness and I didn't like that. The Traxxas swaybar being all the way to the back solves that little problem. I went with the thickest black swaybar. I'll post pics later.

    If weather permits, I should be able to run my ERBE on a racetrack this Sunday as the club where I go to is opening it's doors for the 2009 season. I can't wait. I'll try to get some footage but I suspect that everyone will be very busy setting up their RCs so I might have some trouble finding a cameraman. Here's a glimpse of what the Hardcore RC race club looks like.

    Last edited by mistercrash; 04-23-2009 at 01:28 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  28. #188
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    Traxxas rear sway bar

    Pics of the rear Traxxas sway bar. It's not like you haven't seen that before Any light grey screw head you see (like on the body post, wing mount and sway bar holder) are aluminum screws from fastener express.com. The darker gray screws heads (like on the rockers) are titanium screws from the same place.



    I did a few little 5 minute race simulations on a makeshift race course to check the temps and I came up with:

    54 spur and 21 pinion
    Motor = 120
    ESC = 125
    lipos = 80

    I changed to 54 spur and 23 pinion and came up with:
    Motor = 115
    ESC = 120
    lipos = 90

    Remember that I am running 1/8th scale diffs that have a buggy gearing with spurs and pinions of 43/13.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  29. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    More pics on the subject of the LST2 diffs.

    Has the final gear ratio changed because of these diffs, or is the ring/pinion size the same as stock? thanks

  30. #190
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    Yes the final ratio changes because of the LST2 diffs. They use a 13 T pinion and a 43 T ring gear. The stock ERBE diffs use a 13 T pinion and a 37 T ring gear.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  31. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    I received those ***** ********* 5000mAh 4S1P 30C lipos this morning. candy76man, I know you managed to stuff those 5000 mah *****s in your ERBE but I cannot get them to go inside far enough to close the doors. They don't fit at all.
    I think I will split those packs and make 4 2S 5000 mah packs with them. They should be excellent for racing 5 minutes qualifiers making the truck as light as possible.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  32. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    I think I will split those packs and make 4 2S 5000 mah packs with them. They should be excellent for racing 5 minutes qualifiers making the truck as light as possible.
    Thats strange, the 15c packs I have are actually slightly larger than the ones you have according to *********s stated dimensions....are they too wide or is the height the main problem?

  33. #193
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    mistercrash, do you happen to have that chassis design in G-Code?
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  34. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by candy76man
    Thats strange, the 15c packs I have are actually slightly larger than the ones you have according to *********s stated dimensions....are they too wide or is the height the main problem?
    The height seems to be the main problem, I can't get them to fully go inside the box making it impossible to close the doors without doing some damage. I am seriously thinking of splitting them up to make 4 2S1P packs with them. For 5 minute qualifiers, 5000 mah would be enough and they would be very lightweight compared to the 525 gr. they weigh now.

    Quote Originally Posted by Revoš
    mistercrash, do you happen to have that chassis design in G-Code?
    Sorry but I'm not sure I know what G-Code is. Please explain.

    So here's an update of what happened today. It was opening day at the Hardcore RC race club and the turn out was very good despite the uncertain weather. It was overcast with a little drizzle and cold winds. Today was not a race day but a test and tune, practice day so everyone was very busy setting up their buggies, Truggies and MTs. I couldn't find anyone to take some footage of my ERBE going around the track. Everyone was too busy running, wrenching or marshaling.
    I was the first one that was brave enough to go out on the track even if it was very damp, not muddy but very damp and very soft in some places. The ERBE got very dirty but traction was amazing. I started out with my Badlands, the truck was surprisingly dialed and easy to drive. The power was unbelievable. I mostly ran 4S. But I did try 6S and that was insane but still controllable, just scary On 4S, it handled like a nicely set up MT of course but power wise, it was like driving a buggy. I could approach the biggest jumps and hit just half throttle and clear the triple. As the track started to dry up a bit, the Badlands didn't give as much traction as before so I switched to my Panther Pythons. I had my transponder on and the lap counting system was operational. I did a fast lap of 42.9 sec. No MT has ever managed to get under 43.5 on this track. Also, just in front of the driver stand there's a quadruple which most racers negotiate double/double. The best buggy drivers sometimes show off by quadrupling them, jumping all 4 jumps as one big jump. Some Truggy drivers manage to do it cleanly but not as often as the Buggies. No MT has ever managed to quadruple this portion of the track. I did it three times in a row
    There was quite a few guys at my pit table after that run, everyone wanted to know how a MT could do things like that.
    Then, after the fourth set of batteries, I started having problems with the slipper. Under racing conditions on a genuine race track with lots of jumps and very high traction, the carbon fiber slipper pad I made didn't hold up. The heat was just too much and probably was hot enough to de-laminate the CF and the pad warped. I couldn't get it to stop slipping after that. It's a good thing I didn't give in to the many PMs I got begging me to make these pads and sell them huh? Here's a pic of the failed attempt at a durable carbon fiber slipper pad.



    The spur is also ruined as the pad holder started to make the spur melt. But note how new the teeth still look, that 6 mm thick carbon fiber motor plate is doing well.



    That was the only issue I encountered, the rest of the truck just worked flawlessly and it was a beautiful thing to see on the track, as a few guys said, the thing just glides around the track, well I thought to myself (it's because I'm an amazing driver, I make it look easy)
    Seriously, I got back home and thought about that darn slipper and figured, nitro vehicles use aluminum clutch shoes inside hardened steel clutch bells so there's the hardened steel slipper disk already on the ERBE, why not use an aluminum slipper pad. So that's the route I'm taking next, the aluminum slipper pad is done and installed and I will post back to let you all know how it holds up. Here's a pic



    And to finish this lengthy post, a pic of a dirty ERBE fresh off the race track. I just had time to blow of the biggest chunks of mud with compressed air at the track before coming back home. Those mud flaps really helped the rear suspension and drive shafts to stay clean and free of big globs of dirt and mud.

    Last edited by mistercrash; 04-26-2009 at 09:48 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  35. #195
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Very nice, man...you always post the coolest things! I can't wait to hear how that aluminum slipper pad does! Is it 7075 like the nitro clutch shoes, or did you use 6061?

    G-Code is the code you enter into a CNC machine in order to mill out a custom part. if you had that design in G-Code, I could mill a billet aluminum chassis in your design.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  36. #196
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    I don't think I can produce a G-Code out of that drawing, it was part of a pdf file, reworked with a graphics software and finally saved as a jpg file.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  37. #197
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    338
    mistercrash very interesting this.

    I follow your thread with great accuracy. Really want to find the optimal solution for the problem of the slipper pad / Clutch. I'm going to run with 6S MMM 2200KV comb myself, so you can perhaps understand why your discoveries means lots to me.

    Keep it coming, many pic's please

  38. #198
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    London, England
    Posts
    212
    Like everyone else i have been following this with great interest as the mods arent just standard run of the mill mods they are actually well thought out and well executed Just curious though as the parts are really well finshed, are you using Mills or lathes to do alot of the fabrication? or is it just hand tools?

  39. #199
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,739

    5000 mah 4S split into 2S

    I just did it without thinking too much about it, if you think too much about splitting lipos, then you start being scared and you don't do it . But I'm not a complete idiot so yes, I prepared for the worst, garage door opened with a metal bucket close by outside on the driveway, working table free of combustible stuff and fire extinguisher close at hand. So I have now four 2S1P packs waiting for balance tabs I ordered and heat shrink. I saved the two ***** stickers and will make a couple copies so I will have 4 stickers to put on the new 2S packs to make them look ''factory''. I will be the only one in the universe to have black *****s because I will use black heat shrink.

    Last edited by mistercrash; 04-27-2009 at 09:45 AM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  40. #200
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,739
    Quote Originally Posted by tim186
    Like everyone else i have been following this with great interest as the mods arent just standard run of the mill mods they are actually well thought out and well executed Just curious though as the parts are really well finshed, are you using Mills or lathes to do alot of the fabrication? or is it just hand tools?
    Drill press, disk/belt sander, hacksaw, files and sand paper is all I have. I also have a small router table with a router installed on it that I got at a yard sale for next to nothing. I made an adapter to be able to use 1/8'' shank Dremel bits on it. No mill or lathe.....yet.
    It's been fun. See ya.

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