wheres the cheapest shop to buy an 18tz??
also....whats the difference between the 149$ (P) version
and the 179$ one.....
is the P version for on road?
thanks
wheres the cheapest shop to buy an 18tz??
also....whats the difference between the 149$ (P) version
and the 179$ one.....
is the P version for on road?
thanks
yeh, the slide valve on it's carby in the P version is suitable for on road
incase of the prices, i think that the best place to find a lower price
is ebay.
ok cheers for that! wish i could change the title of this thread.
im open to any other engines that are around that range even with abit less power but it has to be REAR EXHAUST port.
unfortuneatley you cant find many :/
PS thanks desert!...yeh i found the guy from rcmart having a good price
good luck matejust make sure you're buying a direct fit one
unless you're planning to modify things around
what do you mean?...thought they a direct fit on small block engine mounts?
what i knew that there is only 2 or 3 engines that fits directly as a replacement of the trx3.3
:
tm18 & o.s 21tm
what is the engine you're going to buy ?
the 18tz only needs a couple mods to it. mine is gonna get here in a couple days, cant wait!
you need to shave off 2 threads on the crankshaft for the clutchbell to fit correctly, and you have to use a starter box. i dont have a starter box and i had an 18tm, so you can take the starter shaft and backplate from the 18tm and use the ez start, pull start, etc. and yes i know this works fine, i emailed OS engines and they said it was completely OK.
WARNING:exposure to nitro can lead to drain bamage
im getting my tz thursday, one more question: is the shaving off of the 2 threads on the crankshaft required? like why would you need to other than the gears aligning? idk if this is a stupid question, my bad if it is![]()
WARNING:exposure to nitro can lead to drain bamage
The clutch bell will stick out way too far if you don't remove the threads. You might also need to grind down whatever SG clutch nut your using so the clutch bell fits right.Originally Posted by Jatomann
Revo.27TX/Jato.18/Maxx523/Maxx3.3/GMAXX/Rusty/ERBE
now my tz is sposed to get here anytime, lol. so you grind the clutch nut down from the top, not the base, right? like the side facing away from the engine.
and johnny, wats a JatoV12?
WARNING:exposure to nitro can lead to drain bamage
You got it, grind down the side facing away from the engine.Originally Posted by Jatomann
JatoV12 = RB Concept V.12 engine
Revo.27TX/Jato.18/Maxx523/Maxx3.3/GMAXX/Rusty/ERBE
o, lol. i was thinkin 12 cylinders at first lol.
and i got the tz, havent run it yet cuz apparently i DO need a starter box and cant just use the 18tm backplate and starter shaft. the reason is that the crankshaft doesnt have the thing that sticks out for the starter shaft to connect to. so i just been setting everything up.
and i didnt have to grind the crankshaft threads, just the clutch nut so the threads are showing when it is tightened. the spur gear was rubbing up against the CB shell, so i just put some spacers on the 3 screws that hold on the spur gear which pushed it out flush with the CB gear. works perfect!
gonna get starter box from LHS tomoro if they have it. if not, ill look into other local stores. bout to put up some pics on the gallery.
WARNING:exposure to nitro can lead to drain bamage
You'll need to use the TM crankshaft if you want to use the ez-start or pullstart. That's how I ran mine before I bought a starter box.Originally Posted by Jatomann
Revo.27TX/Jato.18/Maxx523/Maxx3.3/GMAXX/Rusty/ERBE
ya, i talked to OS engines and they said that the starter shaft and backplate from the 18tm will work, but not the crankshaft. idk why.
WARNING:exposure to nitro can lead to drain bamage