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  1. #1
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    Pics of my very Broken Slash and a gripe

    The re-use of original parts from the first pede-rusty-bandit from long ago in updated vehicles (xl-5, vxl, etc) and in a new platform (slash), and in key areas, has always rubbed me the wrong way. In the slash, this new large and stout chassis is attached to the same 'ol tranny case that has been used for ages - by these two little nipples of a set of tabs, and guess where it broke.... The only defense they have from the seemingly immense amount of leverage that happens at that point is the skid plate/ support (attached by two points and broken at those two points as well - right across the bolt holes). This happened while cruising fast across the yard; hit a small root and tore the back end off the truck. Now granted, I've upgraded the power system, but because those two little tabs, and skid/support tabs broke through the bolt holes, I need to replace two of largest and most structural pieces on the truck (also broke the rear body post)


    Whacky waiving inflatable arm flailing tube man!!!

  2. #2
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    Agreed, the chassis on all the XL-5 vehicles need to have more contact points at the very least.
    Dontworry,thelightathendofthetunnelisatrain!

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Carbonrevo33's Avatar
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    Well theres your problem.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 31794ty's Avatar
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    Don't feel bad. I have broke 6 stampede chassis.
    Stampede VXL Mini-T Nitro Stampede RC10T RC10B4 FT

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Carbonrevo33's Avatar
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    Ha wow, You guys must be rough w/ your slashes. I am probably a 1/4 as hard on my truck as you guys are on yours.

  6. #6
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    ive owned a stampede for 13 years, a rusty for about 2 years, and a slash since last summer. I have broken 2 tie bars (tboned by other rcs), a bulkhead (tboned by 8th scale nitro), and a shock tower(2 yr old driving it into shed). i dont hold back and thats all ive broken.

    i should say aside from running cvds, steel idler, and alum shock caps.
    What?

  7. #7
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    Indeed that is the achilies heel with the chassis. I plan on reinforcing mine with a metal plate and some longer screws. Question is whether or not I'll get around to doing it before or after it breaks.

  8. #8
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    Some of you may have seen this video of mine before. This is a vid of my 3s Lipo Brushless Slash at a skatepark for the first time.

    The reason I'm adding this to the thread is that I beat my Slash that day like I stole it and I only broke a steering block.

    I pre-ordered my Slash before they came out and the only things that I have had break are the steering blocks and rear hubs.

    Has something changed with the chassis?

    Anyways, here's the video: Skatepark Bash
    If it's wet, sticky, and not yours..DONT TOUCH IT!

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    You have to admit, the Traxxas 272 tranny is a solid design. Until about the last year or so it was a mainstay tranny for crawlers. The part of the tranny that have caused me the most frustation in my Rusty and Pede is where the arms attach to the tranny, I can almost rip apart the tranny and put all of the guts into a new one with my eys closed. But, as annoying as this is, I accept the breakage because I am the one that took the XL-1 and Stinker out and dropped in an XL-10 and 12T motor. All of that added speed stresses the tranny beyond its design limits. But, isn't that the fun part of this hobby?
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  10. #10
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    Cold weather is a big factor into why plastic parts break. The plastic is just brittle.
    Go Patriots!

  11. #11
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    That is where my sons chassis broke. I think it was because I overtightened the screws there in conjunction with a few good hits.
    Won my first race in 1985...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott
    You have to admit, the Traxxas 272 tranny is a solid design. Until about the last year or so it was a mainstay tranny for crawlers. The part of the tranny that have caused me the most frustation in my Rusty and Pede is where the arms attach to the tranny, I can almost rip apart the tranny and put all of the guts into a new one with my eys closed. But, as annoying as this is, I accept the breakage because I am the one that took the XL-1 and Stinker out and dropped in an XL-10 and 12T motor. All of that added speed stresses the tranny beyond its design limits. But, isn't that the fun part of this hobby?
    Yes the tranny is certainly solid. I havn't got a problem with that, just the way in which they chose, or were forced to apply it to the slash platform - the same way that they have applied it to thier much smaller and lighter stampedes. I would have MUCH rather broken another suspension arm, but instead, failure at its back bone.
    Whacky waiving inflatable arm flailing tube man!!!

  13. #13
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    Yeah, it's almost like the front and rear end (very solid design) were designed separately, and then the chassis was an afterthought... Maybe the chassis braces should be more like the ones on the Maxxes!
    Dontworry,thelightathendofthetunnelisatrain!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Mukai
    Yeah, it's almost like the front and rear end (very solid design) were designed separately, and then the chassis was an afterthought... Maybe the chassis braces should be more like the ones on the Maxxes!
    Absolutely! Great thought. You may have just inspired me to come up with some home made braces.... time for a weekend project!
    Whacky waiving inflatable arm flailing tube man!!!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_Diculous
    Absolutely! Great thought. You may have just inspired me to come up with some home made braces.... time for a weekend project!
    *Big grin*

    I was just thinking, what if the braces were more like a "lower deck" secondary chassis, thus the strain of the worst possible hit (high centering after a jump) wouldn't be placed on four screws in 5mm composite. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.
    Dontworry,thelightathendofthetunnelisatrain!

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rjm2519's Avatar
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    The maxxes design isn't much better and it breaks mush more often and would add considerable weight and complexity that is just not necesary, get some high quality aluminum skids and stop hitting things at high speeds.
    Donít handicap children by making life easy

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjm2519
    The maxxes design isn't much better and it breaks mush more often and would add considerable weight and complexity that is just not necesary, get some high quality aluminum skids and stop hitting things at high speeds.
    Whacky waiving inflatable arm flailing tube man!!!

  18. #18
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    this happened to me to. i wish they had made it stronger

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rjm2519's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_Diculous
    roll your eyes all you want but in the few months I had my emaxx I broke three sets of bulkheads until I went with FLM bulks and then I hit curb and broke 3 of 4 screws that hold the bulks on. And lets not get started on shock towers and drive shafts.

    As for the rustler, pede, and slash...I have only popped shock caps bent steering arms, busted servo savers, and one broken wheel. I have yet to break anything more substantial than the one lonely broken wheel. Like most of the people on here I drive my rustler and pede pretty hard and have no fear of jumps of anything with them because they are so sturdy. The slash I jumped quite a bit as well and nothing broke on it while I had it.
    Donít handicap children by making life easy

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjm2519
    roll your eyes all you want but in the few months I had my emaxx I broke three sets of bulkheads until I went with FLM bulks and then I hit curb and broke 3 of 4 screws that hold the bulks on. And lets not get started on shock towers and drive shafts.

    As for the rustler, pede, and slash...I have only popped shock caps bent steering arms, busted servo savers, and one broken wheel. I have yet to break anything more substantial than the one lonely broken wheel. Like most of the people on here I drive my rustler and pede pretty hard and have no fear of jumps of anything with them because they are so sturdy. The slash I jumped quite a bit as well and nothing broke on it while I had it.
    glad you've had good luck with it
    Whacky waiving inflatable arm flailing tube man!!!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjm2519
    The maxxes design isn't much better and it breaks mush more often and would add considerable weight and complexity that is just not necesary, get some high quality aluminum skids and stop hitting things at high speeds.
    The only problem is that there aren't that many skids out for the slash yet. I know Hot Racing makes some, but it says that they are machined aluminum, not machined billet aluminum, and there is a difference.
    Dontworry,thelightathendofthetunnelisatrain!

  22. #22
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    I have beat the **** out of my slash and the only thing that has broke was a rear skid plate. I have sinced upgraded to strc's aluminum skids and have not had a problem. Oh, and a couple of stripped spurs thanks to the opening in the stock gear cover.

  23. #23
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    I run the wee out of my slash ! Ive broken an A-arm and a castor block....Thats it ! besides the normal wear of spur gears this truck is tough...mine is brushless and I run 8 cells that peak at 10.75 volts! Ive never seen a slash break like that !
    Paddle Tires Make Everything Better

  24. #24
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    You need to fab up a bash plate to cover the front edge of the rear skid so nothing can catch on it. Get a RPM center skid plate for an E Maxx, you can easily make that work. You'll need to heat it and adjust the angles a bit but it will solve that problem of anything hooking the front of the stock rear skid and breaking the chassis....

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerslider
    You need to fab up a bash plate to cover the front edge of the rear skid so nothing can catch on it. Get a RPM center skid plate for an E Maxx, you can easily make that work. You'll need to heat it and adjust the angles a bit but it will solve that problem of anything hooking the front of the stock rear skid and breaking the chassis....
    Good idea, thats probably what caught the root I hit. I've got some aluminum to play around with for this.

    ...Got a dead ZJ now to attend to first though
    Whacky waiving inflatable arm flailing tube man!!!

  26. #26
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    Yeah I never thought about that much but it's definitely a problem if you snag some immoveable object at speed. I would make the front attachment point ahead of the stock brace so you can fasten it securely to the chassis, then run it back over the stock skid and use those screws to secure the rear of the plate. That should put and end to chassis failure in the rear as it would be much stronger than the stock setup. I think I'll get an RPM plate and do that to mine, I layed one on it last night and the angles are close so with a slight tweaking and drilling a few holes it will go right on. Thanks for the heads up....

  27. #27
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    ttt

    does anyone have a link to the rpm plate that will work? I may be able to fab one up if i can see what it looks like and how they go on...


    thanks

  28. #28
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  29. #29
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    POwerslider, post some pics when complete, I would be interested in how it comes out..
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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisd
    POwerslider, post some pics when complete, I would be interested in how it comes out..
    Alright, be patient it will be a bit before I get to it but I'll show the end results...

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