A Basher is Born: Jteks project log

[superbasher]

Nice choice Jtek. I used a single 4s pack for mine, which gets a bit hot, but it still seems to last a fair while. I got 2 4000mAh 4s packs too to run in parallel, though I think he never balanced them, so my LBA10 has been working overboard on the first pack for the last 3 hours

[RalphERevo]

Awesome thread Jtek!

You should be getting longer runtimes than 15 minutes with your batteries. I ran a 700-HO with Rhino 2s 4900s for a while and I was getting 25-30 minutes of near-constant throttle. Maybe your boat motor is just a bit less efficient.

By the way, in your first thread you said that you were going to explain why you only used one Titan motor. You never did. Truth is, I never ran the stock motors, but that really intrigued me . So, if you don't mind my asking, why did you only use one motor?

[jtek]

Nice choice Jtek. I used a single 4s pack for mine, which gets a bit hot, but it still seems to last a fair while. I got 2 4000mAh 4s packs too to run in parallel, though I think he never balanced them, so my LBA10 has been working overboard on the first pack for the last 3 hours

What sort of runtimes are you getting with the 2x 4000? Charge times with LiPos suck
I want to see a new generation of hardcase waterproof LiPOs with built in LVC and balancer chips which can charge at 2c. A proper warranty would be nice too, and a sensible price. I guess we just have to wait for the tech to improve.

Awesome thread Jtek!

You should be getting longer runtimes than 15 minutes with your batteries. I ran a 700-HO with Rhino 2s 4900s for a while and I was getting 25-30 minutes of near-constant throttle. Maybe your boat motor is just a bit less efficient.

Thanks! I'm actually using stock dual Titans atm So my boat motor is not to blame. I am on the throttle quite a lot, but so were you. Any ideas as to what's killing my runtime?

Perhaps i did just get some really sucky motors and the high current draw was what killed my batteries and is reducing my runtime...

By the way, in your first thread you said that you were going to explain why you only used one Titan motor. You never did. Truth is, I never ran the stock motors, but that really intrigued me . So, if you don't mind my asking, why did you only use one motor?

Thanks for reminding me of that The reason was I installed the single motor plate, ran the boat motor, and found it was dog slow, so I put a single titan in because I couldn't be bothered to put the dual motor plate back on and I was planning on getting a new pinion quickly for the boat motor. Didn't do that in the end on the advice of Dan that it wasn't a great motor for speed. As i said i was surprised at how well it worked, very little difference in performance with just the one motor. I suspect if i had left it i would have had heat issues with the motor in warmer weather though. But if you have a spare titan and you need to use it, just put in in and it should run fine on its own. Under gearing from stock a little would probably help but for a short time it will be fine.

Anyone have anything to share about LiPOs and water? I'm interested to hear what your experiences have been. Should I be getting them wet?

[bluefisherking]

Anyone have anything to share about LiPOs and water? I'm interested to hear what your experiences have been. Should I be getting them wet?

I mostly put them into balloons, and then let them get drenched. And when I am running brushed for wet weather I even hose the truck down with them still in the battery boxes. If you are worried, you can always put a cable tie or twist tie around the neck of the balloon.

The balloons do rip, but replacing them won't exactly break the bank.

[ymmv]

[JWess]

I drove one LRP 5000mah during wet weather. They don´t have a hardcase. The LiPo was flooded and that was no problem. I think that the water couldn´t get out of the hardcase. Just dry them after a wet bash.
The water is not such a big problem, because the cells are close. If the cells aren´t close, the lithium will react with the air.

[RalphERevo]

Any ideas as to what's killing my runtime?

I think the combination of two motors and constant throttle with the Titans would kill the batteries pretty quickly. To my understanding, the Titans are not particularly efficient motors, so that could be it.

Anyone have anything to share about LiPOs and water? I'm interested to hear what your experiences have been. Should I be getting them wet?

I think getting them wet would be fine. I would suggest putting them in a balloon just for the extra security. I have not had any problems with mine getting wet. As long as you do not submerge the truck, allowing the compartments to fill up, they should not experience more than a little splashing.

[jtek]

I think the combination of two motors and constant throttle with the Titans would kill the batteries pretty quickly. To my understanding, the Titans are not particularly efficient motors, so that could be it.

Too right, they're little space heaters. They make more noise and heat than useful motion! But people say the 700HO gets about the same runtime as the titans, so why is yours 25+ and mine 15?

Three votes for balloons, so balloons it is. Normal ones seem too small so I'll have to get hold of some larger ones.


In the mean time, I'm having a few radio issues. It's like it's out of range at only a few meters, and stays that way as you approach it. But it's not a range issue because mostly it works, it's intermittent. It goes completely unresponsive, glitching occasionally. I can walk up to it within touching distance and it's still out of control, then after a while it works again, as if the signal took some time to get there. But it acts just like it's slightly out of range only getting an intermittent signal. The radio is a 3ch 40 FM system. I posted this in another thread but I may as well mention it here.

Going to check the radio box for water and reset the LVC, and try an rx pack. Any guesses as to what it might be, or what I should test first?

[RalphERevo]

That same thing happened to me. After spending a total of 10 hours trying to fix the problem I decided to toss in the towel on the antiquated AM and FM radios and go to DSM. Go on Ebay or rctech.net trading forums to find a system cheap. I traded a Slash for a new-in-box DX3S and SR3000T receiver with all the telemetry sensors. You could probably find a DX2.0 or DX3.0 on Ebay for 40-50 pounds (60-80 USD). Great investment. If you have anything to trade, rctech.net is a great place to go.

[jtek]

I've decided that getting a 2.4Ghz system is not an option for me. To get one with the features i want would cost too much. In fact if i were to buy one I'd get the futaba 3gr-fs because its stick and has the features i would want. Thing is, just last year i bought the FM version of that exact radio off ebay for about £60, and it is identical to the 2.4 version (although you can't change the radio module ) As luck would have it these issues have completely gone away. I suspect some water may have go into somewhere it shouldn't and now it has dried up.

I got mine today also - it is the 579724-03, but says something else on the side. I found I didn't need any washers to space the motor away as I mounted the pinion the other way around. But I still needed to dremel out the mounting holes of course.

I spent a while trying to cut a slot in the Dewalt pinion to get it off the shaft, but didn't have any luck. However, when I heated it a little with a blowtorch I could see the glue bubbling away between the pinion and the shaft, and I could pull the pinion off easily with minimal force.

I just tried it on 58/15T and 4s - was very torquey (and in fact finished off a centre shaft that was already rather worn). Motor temp was 160F after maybe 10 minutes. ESC about 100F.

Not sure whether to lengthen the gearing, or try it on 5s...

I hear that bluefisherking has got his dewalt motor, any chance of an update on that? How is it for speed, runtime etc? Any why get the 12v one for a 14.4v 4s setup when there is a 14v one, what is the reason for this?

Because it's available in the UK it costs less that the 700HO overall and it's probably a better motor I'm seriously considering it. May work with my 16t novak pinion too which would be great. Its on ebay here if anyone is interested. Pn 579724-03.



Quick general update. Before the snow my E-revo had been sitting for a couple of weeks nice and dry on a bench, and during that time somehow one of the steering servos has died, i mentioned this before.

Been using just one for a while now, probably more than 10 runs, and I'm surprised to say it feels fine. I'm even able to quickly avoid flipping over when it goes on two wheels (an acquired skill i'm learning fast ). So as far as i can tell this dual servo dual motor truck works fine with just one servo and one motor. If you were wanting to run an efficient and light setup, i think i could recommend taking a motor and servo out, and undergearing the motor a little to keep within recommended temps.

Here are some pics of a recent wet run.







This is the best thing by far about being waterproof. LiPOs in btw.


And that missing servo. The hole lets a lot of rubbish in.

[superbasher]

Looks like mine did a few weeks back! Got to love the hose down technique. i use some weird tyre foam I found in my garage for the soap, and then spray it off with a hose, Jobs a good 'un.

[jtek]

Soap? I don't use no soap! This is a basher not a shelf queen. At some point every E-revo owner has to choose between the two and decide if they want to thrash it or be gentle with it. I made a choice at the very beginning, this is a basher and I don't care how scratched or battered it gets as long as it works. After the first few bumps and scrapes the fun increased because you no-longer find yourself worrying about it.


When i put the values for the dewalt motor into the gearing calculator it looks very slow, even though people seem to be running it at low gearings like 16t. Even with 25t it only says it will go to 25mph.

Although i think that kv rating is for the 14v version, does the 12v version have a higher kv and does it matter if it's run at 14v? And why does the gearing calc say it will be so slow, bearing in mind stock is ~30?

[bluefisherking]

I hear that bluefisherking has got his dewalt motor, any chance of an update on that? How is it for speed, runtime etc? Any why get the 12v one for a 14.4v 4s setup when there is a 14v one, what is the reason for this?

Because it's available in the UK it costs less that the 700HO overall and it's probably a better motor I'm seriously considering it. May work with my 16t novak pinion too which would be great.

Hi jtek,

Actually I am very impressed by the Dewalt motor - I am a fan of the 700HOs, but I think the Dewalt is even stronger, although you do need to gear it up a bit as it is not quite as fast.

I picked the 12v one because I knew I would want to overvolt it a lot (Robot Marketplace states that the Dewalts can take overvolting easily) - with 4s initially and be able to go further to 5s. In fact it even seems to take 5s ok (21v when freshly charged!). With the 14.4v motor 4s would have been nominal voltage and I would only have had one step of overvolting (as 5s is the max that the EVX-2 can support). I guess I could have used my MMM for 6s, but it's in for repair, and anyway I wanted waterproof.

I only ran it briefly on 4s with normal wheels, but it seems to have a little more torque than the 700HO for the same top speed. Fitting it is more of a nuisance as you have to dremel out the motor mount, but it takes the same 4mm screws. If you use pinions of about 15T or less you can get away without a spacer by putting the pinion with the set screw away from the motor, but more than that you will need to space it back a fair way (like the 700HO) as the pinion will need to be the other way around.

I've mainly been messing about with it on those large 7.5" wheels and 5s, and as I am using 2s+3s and my lipos are not exactly the same spec I have been being a bit careful not to run them right down. But runtime seems at least as good as the 700HOs.

It is a very torquey motor, and the level of drag braking is ridiculously high! It does get hot - 180F at one point, so I strapped on a spare Novak fan that I had in the cupboard, but then I am rather abusing the poor motor with the high voltage and rotating mass of those wheels!

Given the slightly limited speed range, it would be a great motor to use with the two-speed gearbox set for overdrive.

I have posted up some pics and video on another thread:
http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...73#post3814873

[jtek]

Thanks very much for that, I saw your update and thanks for taking the time to post those pics and the video .

What is the reason for overvolting it? I would prefer to get the 14.4v one if i can run it cooler and get better runtimes, but what gearing would i need to run normal speed or overdrive with that one?
The gearing calculator suggests a 30t pinion for normal speed and an even bigger one for od .

P.s I'd say your slipper wants tightening a bit from the vid

[bluefisherking]

When i put the values for the dewalt motor into the gearing calculator it looks very slow, even though people seem to be running it at low gearings like 16t. Even with 25t it only says it will go to 25mph.

Although i think that kv rating is for the 14v version, does the 12v version have a higher kv and does it matter if it's run at 14v? And why does the gearing calc say it will be so slow, bearing in mind stock is ~30?

Our posts just crossed twice there... :-)

I don't know the kv value of the 12v motor, but I was assuming that it was designed to give the same kind of top drill speed at maximum voltage - i.e. 12v motor at 12v = same speed as 14.4v motor at 14.4v. That would mean the 12v motor would be 1590kv. That's one of the reasons for picking the 12v... (if my assumptions are correct).

1590kv in my case (7.5" wheels, 5s and 12/58) would give around 26mph which feels about right, but with those wheels' rotating mass I was not gearing for speed. If I were running it mainly on normal wheels I would gear it faster... but like I say, it is a good motor for the two-speed overdrive setup.

In my case, I guess this is my setup for water/snow/mud where top speed is not the main thing; I have the mmm/Neu (when repaired!) for high speed conditions.

[jtek]

Ok, so let me get this straight. For od, if i run the 12v i have to get a large pinion and loose runtime due to heat, if i run the 14v i have to get a huge pinion but hopefully i'll get better runtimes? But either way, even if i don't want overdrive, i still have to find a 20t+ 5mm pinion, i can't use my 16t?

I can only afford one 5mm pinion really, so i have to come up with a tooth count and stick with it. According to the gearing calc i need a 33t for overdrive to get 25mph in 1st, 40 in 2nd or a 20t for 25mph in 2nd. That's using the kv number for the 14v. Does this seem right?

[bluefisherking]

Thanks very much for that, I saw your update and thanks for taking the time to post those pics and the video .

What is the reason for overvolting it? I would prefer to get the 14.4v one if i can run it cooler and get better runtimes, but what gearing would i need to run normal speed or overdrive with that one?
The gearing calculator suggests a 30t pinion for normal speed and an even bigger one for od .

P.s I'd say your slipper wants tightening a bit from the vid

Yes, I loosened the slipper a little (too much) before the video, but it seems to be loosening itself further! I was meaning to tighten it up a bit...

As to gearing, you'd have to go to a smaller spur, and for 4s/1325kv/stock wheels you are right that you probably wouldn't be able to gear for overdrive at all. But if the 12v motor does have a 1590kv and you run it on 5s, you could try 26/54 (I think that will mesh?) which should give you 29mph in first gear and a theoretical 45mph in second gear... but I agree it would be a bit of a stretch!

[bluefisherking]

Ok, so let me get this straight. For od, if i run the 12v i have to get a large pinion and loose runtime due to heat, if i run the 14v i have to get a huge pinion but hopefully i'll get better runtimes? But either way, even if i don't want overdrive, i still have to find a 20t+ 5mm pinion, i can't use my 16t?

I can only afford one 5mm pinion really, so i have to come up with a tooth count and stick with it. According to the gearing calc i need a 33t for overdrive to get 25mph in 1st, 40 in 2nd or a 20t for 25mph in 2nd. That's using the kv number for the 14v. Does this seem right?

Oops, we keep typing at the same time!

Yes, I think you are right that even forgetting overdrive, to get 30mph from the 12v you would probably need at least 21/54 (assuming my guess on kv) and at least 25/54 with the 14.4v motor ... BUT before you go crazy and order a pinion, check that they will fit the mount in the large motor position and will mesh with the chosen spur...

For example, I am pretty sure that 33T pinion won't fit in the Traxxas motor mount at all...

[bluefisherking]

Just an afterthought - the 700HO is probably a slightly more flexible motor (and easier to mount of course), even if the Dewalt beats it in the hard-as-nails category! But in terms of speed it is not as different as all that - the 700HO has a KV value of 1658, so on standard 20/68 gearing it only gives you 24mph on 4s.

[HobbyGuy321]

On 4s, the dewalt 12v has been gps verified to go 26.6mph with 20/65 gearing. I do not think your 1325kv is correct for this motor. Where did you get this number?

It really needs to stop snowing here so I can gps my truck. I think mine should go 43 mph with 14-cell ib4600's. I will also test it with 15 cells.

Scroll down to post #18
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_81...tm.htm#8126959

Hope this helps.

edit: I forgot to mention my setup. I have a dewalt 12v motor, mmm esc, 25/54 gearing, and 2-speed transmission

[Revo¹]

The biggest gain with these motors is torque, not top speed...but since the motor has more torque, you can run a slightly taller gear ratio to gain a little speed.

[jtek]

Update time!
Making a 4s Trakpower balancing connector.

Start with two 2s connectors:


Closeup of the connector:


Push the tabs down with a flat bladed screwdriver to remove them from one of the connectors:


Then make one connector like this. For 4s you actually only need 5 wires, one for each side and one for the three cell joins, c1-c2,c2-c3,c3-c4. Because the middle join is between the packs there are two physical connectors for one cell join, so the remaining connector was used with a new banana plug on the end to make the middle balance point.


Plug them into the Trakpower balancer with the new connector. The thick wires are for balance through, you could just connect the charger there.


Voila! 4 cells.


But will it still work with just one 2s pack connected? Yes! And even the balance through connectors will still connect.


I'm pretty pleased with this mod so far, and the reason for it is it allows me to balance the packs to each other and also to charge two at the same time, meaning I can charge 4 packs at once with two chargers. LiPO charging is slow so providing you have enough packs this can be worthwhile.

Question... Is my wiring right? It balances but i have yet to charge this way. Can anyone double check for me and confirm it is correct?

[jtek]

Happy 2000th view project log thread Thanks to all for your continuing interest.

Without further ado, here is another update to celebrate. I've successfully bred my LiPOs, they had kittens this morning and now there are four

[ianjoyner]

I've successfully bred my LiPOs

How did you do that? I could really use some more packs

[ianjoyner]

Question... Is my wiring right? It balances but i have yet to charge this way. Can anyone double check for me and confirm it is correct?

Looks good, one thing though, you've only used a thin wire to connect the center +ve and -ve connections of the packs together, this wire will be taking the full charge current as they are connected in series, so should probably be a thick lead. You could just make a short 4mm to 4mm lead and connect the two packs in the middle, like the lead that comes with TrakPower's saddle packs.

[Revo¹]

Wow, excellent job, jtek...on both the balance wiring and the newly-born kittens!

[jtek]

Looks good, one thing though, you've only used a thin wire to connect the center +ve and -ve connections of the packs together, this wire will be taking the full charge current as they are connected in series, so should probably be a thick lead. You could just make a short 4mm to 4mm lead and connect the two packs in the middle, like the lead that comes with TrakPower's saddle packs.

You're absolutely right of course I'm so glad I haven't charged with it yet

Found a solution:


I guess the thin black lead will just have to be removed.

Wow, excellent job, jtek...on both the balance wiring and the newly-born kittens!

Thanks. If they start purring I have to chuck them in my LiPO sack and run

How did you do that? I could really use some more packs

I think the balloons got them excited!











I'm surprised at how well the balloons work actually. They are a PITA to get on though, had to cut the neck off to make then fit. Not sure whether to cut holes where the connectors are and see if the connectors will make a watertight seal, of whether to poke the connector wires through the end and have to untie them every time i want to balance them.

[Popoxx]

Very interesting & original thread jtek
I like the idea of the batts inside balloons, they look really waterproof !

[shizzon]

I'm surprised at how well the balloons work actually. They are a PITA to get on though, had to cut the neck off to make then fit. Not sure whether to cut holes where the connectors are and see if the connectors will make a watertight seal, of whether to poke the connector wires through the end and have to untie them every time i want to balance them.

great idea on the balloons!! to get a good seal around the wire leads i would remove the connector, poke small holes in the balloon in the appropriate places and simply push the wire through. If you make the holes small enough (think needle prick) the balloon will be tight enough around the wires to prevent leakage. you could also add some assurance by using silicon to further seal the holes. the balancing hole is a little bit trickier since the wire doesnt stay during use...but you might be able to do the same thing (pocke a small hole that is basically sealed, and simply push the balance wire through to get to the hole....just an idea.

[bluefisherking]

I'm surprised at how well the balloons work actually. They are a PITA to get on though, had to cut the neck off to make then fit. Not sure whether to cut holes where the connectors are and see if the connectors will make a watertight seal, of whether to poke the connector wires through the end and have to untie them every time i want to balance them.

You should be able to pull the neck over the lipos - I am able to with 3s ***** lipos (they can't be much different in size from yours as they pretty much fill the battery compartments) and with Orion hard case lipos... You have to get the index and middle finger from each hand inside the neck and stretch it wide, and then pull it wide around the end of the lipo, not letting go of the neck until you have it over the far end... the first time it might help to have someone else hold the lipo! [Don't make me video that!!]

Having the neck of the balloon still attached makes the balloon less likely to rip, and it makes it easier to keep water out without complicated tying. If you want to clasp the end, just use a twist tie or a rubber band wrapped round a few times. Personally I don't bother and never have a problem. I certainly wouldn't go crazy with sealant/silicone or anything as they balloons do rip after a while and you'll only have to do it all over again!

[jtek]

Update: Bent Outdrive
Ok, so I was pulling wheelies by reversing and then going forward. Bad idea I know, what with these crappy Titans there's no other way to make use of that wheelie bar.
This is caused by two outdrives taking the force of four. So what i don't understand is how can this be brushless ready if it can't take double the power of Titans, which is surely not much? But I can't complain really I suppose.



HPI have actually banned e-clips on their vehicles. I wish Traxxas would follow suit, they really suck. Anyway here's how you remove them.






Yep, that's definitely bent.





Using a drill to remove wheel nuts:
Here's a handy tip. Get a nut driver of the right size and you can use a drill to take wheels off really quickly, F1 style. And you can use the torque setting on the drill to get all your wheel nuts on at the correct tightness.




Tyre and wheel problems:
Tyres are still coming off. I re-glued them once, now I can't be bothered so they've been that way for some time. They don't seem to be coming off anymore.


And on one wheel the chrome plating is just falling off. At least since it's black chrome they are black underneath. And i don't have to worry about scratching them anymore



I've run out of images, post has a max of 10, smilies included. Ahh well, not much to smile about anyway.

I'm still a little behind in my updates, what I do is wait for the truck to break, I never have to wait long, then I do my updates
I fixed the outdrive pretty quick and carried on bashing, but now something rather more problematic has happened so I have lots of time to post my updates. Yay.

[jtek]

Very interesting & original thread jtek
I like the idea of the batts inside balloons, they look really waterproof !

From the master of great project log threads, this is truly a compliment You helped to inspire this one.

great idea on the balloons!! to get a good seal around the wire leads i would remove the connector, poke small holes in the balloon in the appropriate places and simply push the wire through. If you make the holes small enough (think needle prick) the balloon will be tight enough around the wires to prevent leakage. you could also add some assurance by using silicon to further seal the holes. the balancing hole is a little bit trickier since the wire doesnt stay during use...but you might be able to do the same thing (pocke a small hole that is basically sealed, and simply push the balance wire through to get to the hole....just an idea.

This sounded like an interesting solution to me, so I did a little experimenting.

The LiPO Balloon Experiment

The experiment went like this:
1: Put some paper underneath the balloon on the LiPO, tape the end up, then pierce it over the connectors, plug in the connectors, run it under the tap and see if the paper gets wet.
2: Do the same but with o-rings around the connectors.
Lots of pics for this one, it's quicker and more interesting than typing for all of us

Test to see if paper shows up water.

[jtek]

So the o-ring test was a success, no water. Now to try without the o-rings:

[jtek]

With o-rings:




The balloon didn't last:


Result:
The o-rings worked, without them water leaked in. Piercing the balloon is not a good idea, better to put tape over the holes first. The problem with this idea is firstly the batteries barely fit in the bays with the o-rings, and secondly you have to plug the balancing hole, I didn't pierce it for the experiment.

You should be able to pull the neck over the lipos - I am able to with 3s ***** lipos (they can't be much different in size from yours as they pretty much fill the battery compartments) and with Orion hard case lipos... You have to get the index and middle finger from each hand inside the neck and stretch it wide, and then pull it wide around the end of the lipo, not letting go of the neck until you have it over the far end... the first time it might help to have someone else hold the lipo! [Don't make me video that!!]

Having the neck of the balloon still attached makes the balloon less likely to rip, and it makes it easier to keep water out without complicated tying. If you want to clasp the end, just use a twist tie or a rubber band wrapped round a few times. Personally I don't bother and never have a problem. I certainly wouldn't go crazy with sealant/silicone or anything as they balloons do rip after a while and you'll only have to do it all over again!

I think you're right. I said originally that I liked the Trakpower approach to balancing connectors. I've changed my mind, i prefer them on a plug, and i think the best way to waterproof these is to get a set of three banana connectors and keep them in the holes inside the balloon permanently, then make adaptors for the Trakpower balancer. That what I'll do next.

[Revo¹]

jtek, why are you removing your axles that way? Just remove the cross-pins holding them to the diff outputs and the wheel nuts and they come right out...there is absolutely no reason to remove the u-joint e-clips, that's the extremely hard way...do it the easy way, man...heh!

[jtek]

jtek, why are you removing your axles that way? Just remove the cross-pins holding them to the diff outputs and the wheel nuts and they come right out...there is absolutely no reason to remove the u-joint e-clips, that's the extremely hard way...do it the easy way, man...heh!

The replacement shafts don't include the parts that fit to the diff outputs and wheel nuts. Here is the exploded view for reference.

Final update until new stuff arrives...
My Titans Died! 9 months is pretty good I suppose compared to other Titans.
Remember the rule with electric...


Unfortunately they were


You don't need any pics of the motors, there must be hundreds on here by now. It turns out the rear one had already died partially, once you turn it it starts spinning but it has to be started. When the front one died, the truck just blew a load of smoke and stopped. I had noticed a temperature difference but it wasn't much, because the front motor was getting the rear one spinning.


If anyone is wondering why I don't just get a large pinion and use my boat motor or the dewalt, here's why:
Pinion price = 20$ from Kershaw for a 35t plus $15 shipping = $35 = £25. That's one dollar per tooth

However, a 25t pinion off ebay = £10 for non overdrive gearing. Assumes dewalt @1325kv, 700HO, my boat motor are similar.

The death of my Titans has forced me to get a 25T off ebay, so i'll try it with my boat motor first and if that doesn't work i'll try the dewalt. In the meantime, it's back to revo withdrawal

[Revo¹]

Oh, I gotcha...I would just spend $19 for a brand-new set of 4 complete axles if I were you! Then you would have 4 complete axles as spares, instead of having to do any rebuilding.

[Spoonmeister]

I would've thought you'd get more than 15 mins tbh
What NiMH's were you running and how long were you getting from them?

[timaneli]

how is working your 2 speed transmission so far??
i am thinking upgrading my e-revo with one..

regards