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  1. #1
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    18tz with stampede clutch adapter nut

    Hey I am about to cut the shaft of my 18 tz and fit it with the stampede clutch nut to fit my Jato, but it seems like the shaft is thicker than the stampede clutch adapter nut and that the two won't thread into eachother. Does anyone that has got the 18tz to work with the jato know anything about this? Is there more than one model of clutch apdapter?

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    try the nut in the ofna shim kit
    Keep spendin $$ and ur still in the way!!

  3. #3
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    Do you know the part number by any chance, or have a link? Thanks

  4. #4
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    Dude, here is one of a few install threads. Do a search, the clutch nut screws right onto the the shaft itself, if you do it that way, but no need to cut the shaft. Hope you didn't mess up that nice new engine already. One wrong move, and the balance on that shaft is shot.

    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...ght=TZ+install
    G4/V15
    IGT2/P9R
    Revo/.21TM
    Walbern PRO-MOD

  5. #5
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    Yeah I have read the threads, have you done this youself or are you going by what the threads say? The Clutch apapter nut is almost definately too small to thread onto the shaft of the TZ, so I was hoping to find out from someone that has used
    O.S. 18TZ (P)-T w/11K Slide Carb with Traxxas part #4844 (although now 4844 appears to come with a 3x10mm cap head screw, asplit washer, and a regular washer, when I purchased it, it came with just the Clutch nut and not the accesories)

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by revonitro
    One wrong move, and the balance on that shaft is shot.

    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...ght=TZ+install
    das y i recommend just replacin the crank
    Keep spendin $$ and ur still in the way!!

  7. #7
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    just hack it off... precision is so over rated... lol
    i am just jokin
    been there bought that

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by MCGusto
    Yeah I have read the threads, have you done this youself or are you going by what the threads say? The Clutch apapter nut is almost definately too small to thread onto the shaft of the TZ, so I was hoping to find out from someone that has used
    O.S. 18TZ (P)-T w/11K Slide Carb with Traxxas part #4844 (although now 4844 appears to come with a 3x10mm cap head screw, asplit washer, and a regular washer, when I purchased it, it came with just the Clutch nut and not the accesories)
    I just did it, not two weeks ago. I have about $350 in my engine alone. There is no way I was cutting the shaft. The engine will be useless for any other vehicle. Just follow the thread, and you should be fine if you have a steady hand a dremmel and the nerve to do it. The first two thread of the shaft have to be ground all the way down even with the shaft or else the CB bearing will not go down all the way. If you slip that's it, take the material away slowly and clean and check in between. Or else, go with the TM shaft like jusleanit said.

    If I am not mistaken, that shaft is the same as my Picco, JLR .12, the stock clutch nut is to large. I ordered the same Ofna clutch nut for .12 and .18 engines and it fits perfectly after grinding it down perfectly. I then used a spacer and shim kit for a professional install. Look at the pics in my thread. No botch job there, I take pride in all my engines and my work.
    G4/V15
    IGT2/P9R
    Revo/.21TM
    Walbern PRO-MOD

  9. #9
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    Thanks nitro, I have heard the TZ has a "turbo crank," does anyone know if their would be any power sacrifice if i put the TM crank on?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MCGusto
    Thanks nitro, I have heard the TZ has a "turbo crank," does anyone know if their would be any power sacrifice if i put the TM crank on?
    There has been a lot of discussion about that over the last couple of years. I have the threads saved on my other laptop at home and will try to get them for you tonight. Some say yes, some say not much. There has even been guys to try the TZ piston and sleeve in the TM and say it works well from what I read a while back.

    My opinion is you will lose some power going from a sealed back plate to the OWB/starter shaft/TM crank. But the it will give you flexibility of using other starting sytems instead of just bump.

    This is why guys stay away from the TZ and opt for the TM. Add the cost of the shaft, crank, backplate, OWB and box and see what it comes to.
    It used to be about $200 w/shipping then about $130-150 for the engine.
    G4/V15
    IGT2/P9R
    Revo/.21TM
    Walbern PRO-MOD

  11. #11
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    Not worried about cost too much, I have a TM that I bought used I can sacrifice. Power wouldn't be too important just have the Jato for recreation and it seems to go fast enough with a TM and Vantage pipe. The TZ and starter box sounded cool b/c it is more racey which is sort of the overall point to me of the hobby. On the other hand the crank swap would be a fun project B/C I know the Jato inside and out but have never dis-assembled a motor completely. Anyways the turbo thing was just on my mind and would avoid it if it was easy. Thanks for all the info and knowledge nitro

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MCGusto
    Not worried about cost too much, I have a TM that I bought used I can sacrifice. Power wouldn't be too important just have the Jato for recreation and it seems to go fast enough with a TM and Vantage pipe. The TZ and starter box sounded cool b/c it is more racey which is sort of the overall point to me of the hobby. On the other hand the crank swap would be a fun project B/C I know the Jato inside and out but have never dis-assembled a motor completely. Anyways the turbo thing was just on my mind and would avoid it if it was easy. Thanks for all the info and knowledge nitro
    You will be happy with the TZ either way. It should still give you a snapier low end than the .18TM and certainly more top end. Good luck bro.
    G4/V15
    IGT2/P9R
    Revo/.21TM
    Walbern PRO-MOD

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