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  1. #201
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    ok so here we go i got my list put together tell me if i need to add anything or take anything off here ya go thanks for the help people


    Traxxas Nitro Rustler RTR A6 Gray/Blue 1 290.57
    Tower Hobbies 6-Cell 7.2V 1500mAh NiCd Stick Std Plug 1 8.47
    Tower Hobbies 400 AC/DC Auto Charger 1 17.28
    Tower Hobbies Medium CA Glue 2.5 Grams 1 1.69
    DuraTrax Kwik-Pit 250cc Fuel Bottle 1 5.76
    Fuji Batteries AA Alkaline (4) 3 12.20
    Ofna Micro Fail Safe Unit 1 19.99
    Venom VTM Micro Temp Monitor Green On-Board 1 15.99
    Traxxas Cooling Head/PowerTune/Head Protector Revo 1 33.99
    Integy MSR9 Front Piggyback Shock Blue Stampede 1 26.29
    Integy MSR9 Rear Piggyback Shock Blue Stampede 1 31.99
    Traxxas Tuned Pipe Resonator Jato 3.3 1 37.99
    Traxxas Talon Tire/All-Star Wheel Fr Stampede 2.8 (2) 2 51.58
    RPM Bumper Wide Front Blue Rustler/Stampede 1 6.69

  2. #202
    worstluck
    Guest
    instead of aa batteries just get a new hump pack for it off ebay or something and it will pay for itself within 3-4 charges it will also last longer than AAs, go with a high mah rating. also grab a charger that will work with both batteries. preferably a smart brain. i strap my pack to my front tower, it helps the front tires hook up nice on the track.

  3. #203
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    Or you could get a 5 cell flat pack from venom and put it under the front shock tower. This will even out the weight better. Also this way your battery is better protected if you flip or fun into something.

  4. #204
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    Like i really needed an excuse, but THANK YOU!

    M3Roc,

    Hi, My name is chad, you can all call me Rhino. I figured sooner or later i would find a spot to start, and not that i needed an excuse, M3Roc, you gave me one. Here is my story...

    A month or so ago i went to my LHS. (I'm even starting to learn the lingo!!) The reason was simple...My 12 year old sons birthday. I was thinking what a cool dad i would be if i got him a real RC car/truck. I walked in and proceeded to tell the owner that i wanted a "Gas" car for my son, as im the coolest dad in the world, and this will get me the award again this year. He has had a few "toy" cars, and now its time to get him the real thing!

    The wise owner started right where he needed to, AT THE BEGINING. He explained that "nitro" was not the place to start him out, and that he had a new, cool, rugged, ready to run truck. (electric) The owner even owns a race track just out of town, and they have a class just for these "newer" racers, designed just for this type of truck. Yes, he showed me the Slash. I was amazed that i would have spent...what ever it took, yet he showed me a much cheaper car than i was prepared to spend. He explained how this will keep him interested while he learned the sport. AND, thats just what i came to think of it...A SPORT. To keep a long story short..well, shorter, I decided that he would need dad to "help him learn", so i bought 2 of them. Red for him, and a brand new shiny blue slash for dad. (This is where the addiction started)

    So, we get home. I think i was more excited to play with the new project than he was to see what i got him. He was FLOORED. He loved the truck, the look, the whole idea of racing against others with the same "thing". The local track asks everyone to keep the "slash class" stock, as to keep the cost down for new racers. I ended up leaving the store with about $950.00 worth of Slash/Slash stuff. We have the 2 slashes, 6 X 7pack 4600 batteries, 2 chargers, oil, high end wrench set, etc... (none of which the LHS said i really needed, but thats how the coolest dad in the world rolls!)

    We raced several times, but i couldnt shake the urge to "do something" to the truck i use. I popped the motor after the first 2 weeks, and purchased a "close replacment" as the LHS was out of actual stock motors. This helped fight the "hop up bug" for about 12 hours. Next was replacing the steering servo, as the stock went out in my truck. Two weeks ago i finally got a bit of fun/challange. I came up with the idea of making a "mascot car" out of the slash, that looked like the Midwest Modified race car a friend races. The biggest race weekend was coming, and kevin Harvick was going to attend. SO, $100.00 later, and many hours of searching, buying, modifying..i had a mini version to set on top of the real thing last weekend. It was a perfect match to his 1:1 race car. all built on a slash.

    At this point 2 thing happened...
    1) Kevin Harvick signed my car, and asked what it would do on the real track.
    I took it out, and as it made its way up and down the dirt track straight away i realized..I NEED THIS THING TO GO FASTER...MUCH, MUCH faster! (The slash does about 32-35mph) He was amazed how fast it went, while all i could think of was how this thing is way too slow.

    2) I read this thread, while day dreaming about things i wish i could do to my RC.


    I have 2 Rc's i cant really Hop up. What am i to do? I keep hearing the words of the LHS owner explaining that i need to learn to walk before i can run. That i will "get into nitro, spend some cash, get frustrated, and quit," like so many others before me. WELL, I'm not a quiter. The money really isnt the issue, not that im rich, but i have the means to get what i need, and get it right. I love the hobby, or at least what i have learned so far...
    So, i figured i would split the difference. I would buy a used nitro to learn on, and that way it wouldnt effect me if i ended up not liking Nitro.

    I found one on Ebay. An adult owner/ran Rustler. It didnt have a body, but it did have something else, A 3.3 Engine! $100.00? How could i go wrong? It even came with a battery/battery charger for the EZ starter, an upgraded filter, and blue aluminum wheel "holder thingy mabobbers". ( I dont think that is the technical term, but its close )

    It arrived Monday! I couldnt wait to get it to the LHS, buy the stuff i needed, and get a quick instructional on how the darn thing started! He looked it over, determined it needed some new fuel line, and i needed a few supplies. I got it home, fueled it up, read Everything in the manual twice, and then turned her over! WOW, what a noise! I couldnt help but take it outside, at 8:00pm, in a quiet neighborhood and see what it would do! It made it down the drive way, i spun it out, and decided i better bring it back up the yard, half way across the yard, i killed it. OH WELL. I can learn more about tuning, now that i know it works.


    That was last night, now i sit in a hotel room, 1100 miles away from my Rhino Rusty, waiting to get back home, to apply the things i have read about, ALL day. Unfortunatly that will not be till Saturday, as im working on the other side of the country this week. I cant wait to get home to take it apart, clean it up, and get started on will be a new version of the thread M3Roc has going here. (well, i suppose i will want to see the wife and kids too)

    M3Roc, you pay attention to detail. Your work is done right. I can see that by how you even make sure your pictures are well done. I respect that, and thats how i am also. So, as you have spent so much time showing the "upgrade story" of your street/show hustler. I would like to do the same with my "used" buy ready to be enthused Rhino Rusty!

    My Rusty, or as i would rather call it..OUR Rhino Rusty, will be used. It will get dirty, but it will be built right! I call it "our" rusty, as it will take the advise of this forum, and your know how, to get her done.

    I will do my best to learn the part names, and use terms you guys already know, but remember im learning, and i ask alot of questions.

    First, the track. We race on an outdoor track, in Minnesote. (Southside speedway, rochester MN) It is dirt. It has one longer straight away. several tight turns and a few jumps. One triple, and one large table top. The surface is great when it is watered, but gets dry, and then pretty dusty, quickly. We also have another local track, but i have never been, and dont know the condition, as it is new.

    So, thats my story. I dont know what the car has, whats stock, whats not. I asked the seller and he said he put the 3.3 in it, added a 73 spur gear, 24 tooth bell crack, integy air filter and aluminum bulk heads on the rear.

    SO, lets start a list of what i NEED to get, what i could get, and what i SHOULDN'T worry about yet.

    Also, i need a body. Stock? Not stock?

    I want to go with the "blue" theme, much like your ride. Aluminum or CF for upgrades?

    Tires? Servos? roll cage? etc...


    Thanks for reading, hope i didnt bore you. BTW, Where are the new pictures, i cant wait to see the "new idea" you are working on.

    (Please explain what the items are, when you list things, as i wont have a clue what they are or what they do)

  5. #205
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    First off an prolly the most important with a nitro model "fail safe" ofna makes a great one i use it and so does M3Roc as well as many others. As for a nice servo i use the traxxas 2075's there good in torq and in speed plus there waterproof. As far as tires go i hear that the traxxas original wheels do good but wear really fast. theres a few things to look into i will think of more tomorrow its time to sleep lol



    Joe
    jato armed rusty 3.3
    :)

  6. #206
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    wow i read that whole story twice! I can't explain how happy I am am and how much enthusiasm that story gives me to put even more time into this truck! I'm happy to hear that ive encouraged you to get into nitro. I love electric and that fact that many learn so quickly how to run it but you can't beat the sound of nitro! Best thing you can do is take a look at some of the builds on these forums. Mine and a few others do a good job at talking about what was done and why. Sounds like you've got a fast setup there. I wish I had a 3.3 engine. The spurs and CB you have will make that rusty FLY when tuned right. Paired with that 3.3 you'll have a blast. All I can say is sit down, tare that car apart for a few reasons. First of all, you'll get a good idea of how its made. Then you'll get a fell for how the components go together. Third of all and most important for me myself is that you'll get a good chance to clean the truck and everyone here knows how stickler I am about how clean my truck is! Just get your son with you one day and do that. Also on this site you'll find the blow up diagrams of how the truck goes together right down to the last screw. Other then that just have fun really. If you don't enjoy this hobby, you'll lose interest very quickly. And with the bodies get creative. Ide suggest subscribing to RC Car Action magazine. They have good updates and you can learn alot through reading their articles. I get it and that's where I learned alot from. Again thanks for the awesome feedback I'm truly amazed how much ive inspired people specially you!

  7. #207
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    Thanks guys! I appreciate the help, and the suggestions. Thanks M3roc.

    So that i dont get off topic on your build thread, i made a new thread for the Rhino Rusty. We can continue our Rhino talk there.

  8. #208
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    You got it buddy. Anything I can help you with I will. Count me in on this build!

  9. #209
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    rhino rusty reminds me of me 5 years ago when my addiction began!!!! i cant get control as my 12 step program is held at the LHS evey friday afternoon! it all starts with hi my name is... so what do you have hop-up wise for my rusty... my maxx... my blast...my axial...my mini t?
    "If it aint broke don't fix it"

  10. #210
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    See, i will never let that happen to me. Im in total control. Sure i bought 3 rc's in the first 1 1/2 months. Sure i just spent $300.00 on a car that cost $100.00 on ebay, and i have never really ran it yet. sure i stayed up till 2am every day this week, when i had to work at 7am, so i could search the net for ideas. sure i...OH CRAP, im in trouble, Aren't i?
    This Rusty WILL Charge!!!

  11. #211
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    Oh boy and another one bites the r/c bulliet lol YOUR HOOKED!!! Its ok Rhino there are a lot of us on this board that really get into there cars and such...
    jato armed rusty 3.3
    :)

  12. #212
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    talk about an addiction.. Ive sunk a little over a grand into my rustler and its not done yet... now that's intense..

  13. #213
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    yeah me too im much over the 1g mark kinda makes ya sick wen ya think about it lol.. boy is it fun though an of course my boys love it so its not a waste


    Joe

    p.s. hey M3 when you gunna get this thing going LOL i cant wait to see it i keep checking to see if u pop up afew pics lol cant wait!!
    jato armed rusty 3.3
    :)

  14. #214
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    ill put pics up tonight.. I promise!! Ive been dragging it on too long anyways its time to show it. Ones I get off my shift ill go home and take some sunset pics maybe..

  15. #215
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    were all waiting eagerly ......rhino I can relate to your addcition very well
    Lead, follow, or get out of my way!

  16. #216
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    Yes, M3Roc... we are waiting!
    Nitro Sport Pro. 15
    VXL BlackSlash w/ DX2.0

  17. #217
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    pictures. Pictures! PICTURES!!!!

  18. #218
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    Where are the pics?
    Cen Matrix TR - Swks .21 V2
    Losi 8B - Swks .21 V2

  19. #219
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    NO PICS YET!!! oh no lol
    jato armed rusty 3.3
    :)

  20. #220
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    LOL a grand... I'm at $1600 and counting...thats what I've spent since buying a used Nitro Sport for $100.

    My other rc project is an electric that I just converted to brushless. Started with a $99 DF-02 Kit and have spent about $700 on that project so far, not including the new charger I just bought and am waiting on in the mail.

  21. #221
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    Ok so remember when I said I wanted a roll cage and didn't want those ugly ones that are for sale online? Well I couldn't find one so I made one! Here are the pics as I promised..












    Continued..

  22. #222
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    Continues...

  23. #223
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    More below...

  24. #224
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    And that's all she wrote for now.. Its almost complete. I still have to make a bumper and paint it. I have already driven with it on and I love the way it looks. I think ill use thin sheet metal to cover the holes on the front and maybe a lil on the sides. If this is something you guys like, I might start making some of them and maybe make some change on em.. Well hope you guys like it cuz I love it! It was awesome to make it specially cuz I could make it exactly how I wanted it. Let me know what you guys think!

  25. #225
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    Very Nice!!! I want one!!!!!!!!

  26. #226
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    Totally awesome!
    Will the body fit with the cage on?
    Losi 1/18 LM, Jato3.3,Revo 2.5r, Micro-t, Losi 8.

  27. #227
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    No. The point of this frame will be to replace the body. Sometime in the near future hopefully I will buy a stock rustler and build a roll cage that will work with the body on..

  28. #228
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    nice cage! you did a great job on that one...but weres the secret project??
    Lead, follow, or get out of my way!

  29. #229
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    dude!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 I absoulutly LOVE IT!! thats badd ashssss good job M3 what did you use to hold the joints solder?? if so what kind and will it hold up to a hit at about 50mph???
    jato armed rusty 3.3
    :)

  30. #230
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    I used silver solder. Its stronger then regular solder and requires much more heat to melt it. Believe it or not I stood on this cage and I weight almost 220lbs! Yeah the triangular design can stand up to some good hits.. Plus that cage is made of solid steel bars. Thats not aluminum and its not hollow..

  31. #231
    RC Racer
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    Red face

    Quote Originally Posted by M3Roc
    Or you could get a 5 cell flat pack from venom and put it under the front shock tower. This will even out the weight better. Also this way your battery is better protected if you flip or fun into something.
    Man, I hate it when I fun into things!
    http://photobucket.com/Tomsnitrorustler

  32. #232
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    M3,

    Looks great man, awesome job..you should try and find somewhere to either chrome it or powdercoat it. Maybe...then again it will get scuffed and scrapped.

    Where did you get the tubing? I would like to build one of my own to, but just a roll bar...the ones for the rustler dont fit the sport.
    Rustler, Bandit, Summit, Emaxx, Rally, and Alias

  33. #233
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    Lol wow i didnt even notice that I said fun instead of run... That's gonna be a catch word now lol! To be honest I funed into this hobby so it kinda made sense lol.. I get the bar from my local hardware supply store. Its 3/16" steel rod make sure you dont get aluminum otherwise you'll never solder it together.

  34. #234
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    thnx
    im gonna go look 4 some
    Rustler, Bandit, Summit, Emaxx, Rally, and Alias

  35. #235
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    M3roc,

    I see you removed the back batt pack and replaced it with a rechargable 5 cell pack for the front. How did you wire the front batt? I see you zip tied it, so it must stay in the car? How did you do the connections to the reciever and then how do you charge it? i was going to splice into the wire on the pack..but wanted to ask first.

    Also, i see a AA pack next to the gas tank, what are those batts for?

    Where did you put the on/off switch? i am dremmeling a hole in the upper, next to the gas tank, and mointing it there, unless you have a better idea.

    WHen i screwed my shocks to the shock tower, they didnt line up straight at the bottom, did you have to add some spacers/washers to make them work?

    -Rhino
    This Rusty WILL Charge!!!

  36. #236
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    oops, forgot one more thing..

    Im going to do a similiar roll cage. How are we going to connect the cage to the car?
    This Rusty WILL Charge!!!

  37. #237
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    I removed the 4aa batteries from the rear bumper and replaced them with a 6volt 5 cell rechargeable pack. I moved the batteries up to the front to take some weight off the rear and keep the front wheels from coming up. After the truck was lowered, It didn't do wheelies anyways because the center of gravity was lowered a lot. On your receiver box there are three connections. Two for the servos and one battery input. I plugged in the front and rear servos into their respective ports. I used a Futaba Y-splitter to connect the battery and Volt-Watch2. The Volt-Watch2 is plugged into one end of the Y-splitter and the other end remains unused. There is no switch. I simply plug the pigtail end from the battery into the other open end of the Y-splitter. This reduces current loss and radio interference and the possibility of a malfunctioned switch. I zip tied the battery to the frame. I have no need to remove the battery. I made an extension Futaba plug that plugs into my digital charger and then the battery pack. About the shocks, are you saying that they don't extend all the way? If you pull on them do they come all the way out? have you changed the oil in them? If so did you notice weather the damper plates had the same amount of holes and were they the same size? Make sure there is no spacer on the interior part of the shaft that is shorter. I do that to make my shocks shorter by restricting the amount of rod that can retract. When the roll cage is finished it will have two mounting points. In the back shock tower right in front of it there are two large holes that look like large machined screw holes. That's the rear mounting location. The front mounting will be the four screws where the front bumper mounts to under the front bulkhead. I have not made the front mounting plate yet so I can't show you any pics. Hope this helped. Ask me more if you want.

  38. #238
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    you said you used silver solder for the cage, did you have to use mapp gas, or can i get away with using a propane torch to solder it?
    This Rusty WILL Charge!!!

  39. #239
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    propane is just fine might be a lil too hot actually.. just don't heat it for too long.. Map and Oxy is what im gonna use when I begin braze welding..

  40. #240
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    Propane worked great, glad i didnt use mapp as it would have been way to hot. I used the propane torch to start the joint and get it sealed up well, then i used a regular solder iron to finish each one off. It was easier to "build up" the strength of the joint with the iron.

    Great idea. I hope you don't mind me stealing it for my truck. Dont worry, i will take all the credit if someone asks
    This Rusty WILL Charge!!!

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