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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Cool .....this Is How I Roll.....

    What's crackin Revo fans,
    I'd thought it'd be cool to document my build,And what better place to do it than here at TRAXXAS.com

    It will be an ongoing thread that will be updated as I recieve parts,And the time to add them.

    In the begining it was new,Shiney and blue.


    It has been to sk8 parks,BMX tracks,And spent alot of time on the rear two wheels in the local industrial area.I've had some great fun with it,But it was time for a rebuild,Which has gotten a little outta hand .

    I'm a basher these days,As my competative racing days are over.And the majority of my parts additions,And setup are based with this in mind.

    Firstly she was completely stripped down and thoroughly cleaned.All the small nubs from the moulding of the plastic parts were trimmed flush with my scaple.Also a mounting tag from the chassis was removed with the dremel,Then filed,And then sanded,That would no longer be neccassary.A few bits and pieces from the new Platinum were ordered,And a Proline steering arm had to arrive before a trip to the anodizers could be made.

    It was decided a colour change was needed for somethin a little different.My Platinum hexes and Proline arm arrived,And all my parts went in for their transformation.

    While I was waiting,Material was removed from the lower hinge pin retainer and the steering bellcrank.This was done with the dremel,And finished with sandpaper.This mod is to attain more throw in the steering.I found the mods here at the Traxxas site.





    I also done a FOC while I was waiting.



    At work I got the call that my goodies were ready.And antisipation was high as I arrived to collect them.I wasn't dissapointed,They turned out excellent.



    Will post some pics of individual parts in detail soon.Please excuse my photography,As most shots are taken on my kitchen floor at night.

    Stay tuned.

    Cheers. 3.3
    TRAXXAS...................Should be :- KIXXAS.

  2. #2
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    Here is a shot of the chassis mounting tag I removed,And the location it was cut from.It will no longer be needed with the setup I plan on using.It gives the front end of the chassis a clean,Semetrical look too.I hate things that are uneven.


    The finished chassis.


    The front and rear bulkhead braces,And chassis engine brace.


    Hexes,MMMMMM YUMMY.




    Proline single steering arm.


    TRX 3.3 cooling head.(Not yet finished according to plan)



    Assembley can now begin. 3.3
    Last edited by 3.3; 07-01-2008 at 07:11 AM.
    TRAXXAS...................Should be :- KIXXAS.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Looks awesome, You should get the M2C rear hinge pin retainer, it would kinda match without having to get it re-anodized What are the plans for wheels and tires? LINK
    My sig is way extra more better than yours!

  4. #4
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    Hi Burger,
    I got all the above parts done for $50 AU,Which is their minium charge.I also got some fishin reel parts done as well.He asked me if there was anything else I needed done,As I could have thrown in more bits for for the $50.I was happy with the ammount of pieces I had done though.

    I am further into my build than I have posted.My wheels and tyres are here already.You'll just have ta wait and see.

    Thanks for the link.

    Cheers. 3.3
    TRAXXAS...................Should be :- KIXXAS.

  5. #5
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    looks awesome. im outta the race scene to. racing took alot of the fun out of it for me. it became a job. your gonna have a sweet ride once complete.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Wow that looks awesome! What else are you planning to do with the cooling head? Are you going to remove the anodizing on the edges like it was when it was blue? Or do you have something else up your sleeve?
    RIP Bart Hinson
    1992-2009

  7. #7
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    sweet but was it necessarry to say as i quote
    Quote Originally Posted by 3.3
    Hexes,MMMMMM YUMMY.


    i know they look good enough enough to eat..........with that glowing sweetness...........and red cherry color.............and.....wait a minute now you are making me hungry I'LL GET YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!




    j/k
    I am Luke Skywalker.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3.3
    TRX 3.3 cooling head.(Not yet finished according to plan)



    Assembly can now begin. 3.3

    Gday 3.3, It's gonna look sweet. I'm having trouble finding someone to re-anodize some parts, where did you get yours done?
    Also did you have to cover the head button when it was done?
    Brad

  9. #9
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    i like it, get pics when its all done.

  10. #10
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    I'm going to be watching this post.. Way COOL 3.3
    :-)

  11. #11
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    Wow, very nice.


  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    That looks great good job.
    ⓘ ⓐⓝⓣ ⓣⓗⓘⓝⓚ ⓞⓕ ⓐⓝⓨ ⓣⓗⓘⓝⓖ ⓖⓞⓞⓓ ⓣⓞ ⓦⓡⓘⓖⓗⓣ ⓗⓔⓡⓔ

  13. #13
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    don't care for red ,but ya i like it

  14. #14
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    it looks pink

  15. #15
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    that looks awsome dude.
    put some pics of it finished on later
    speed/reliability/low cost
    pick 2

  16. #16
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    First up,A quick thanks for your comments,There is alot of trimming,Fileing,And sanding involved to get some parts where I want them,Alot more than what some may think.

    RR16,
    You got it in one.I liked the look of the factory finish on the head,So I always planned to replicate it after the anodizing was finished.Again,Alot of carefull and patient sanding was required to get the end product.In the pics it still has some alloy dust on the head,And has yet to be cleaned properly.I am very happy with the way it turned out.




    Hi J/K,
    Sounds like you like the finish of the hexes as much as I do.Any marks you see that appear out of place in the pics are dust.The anodizing was perfect.It in no way effected the threads either.They are as they were from the Traxxas factory.

    Supp Bradus,
    Didn't even have ta look at ya location to know another Aussie was here.Ya first word said it all.

    Mate,I didn't worry about the button head.It and the thread where the glow plug screws in were on my mind,But as anodizing involves a series of baths,I assumed that it would have been pointless to even try to seal off the areas I wanted to keep clean.I will be sandin the flat section of the button with 1500 wet and dry on top of a sheet of glass to ensure it stays dead flat,There will however still be the small domed section to deal with.I may just leave it with the anodizing on it,Or I may try to remove it with a bit of sand paper over my pinky.

    Can anyone on board tell me if having an anodized surface inside the combustion chamber will damage/effect the motor?

    It took me quite a while to find a place that would do a small order like mine,Most companies only do extrusions and don't wanna know about the little guy.

    I then found :- A Grade Anodising.
    A family owned and opperated company at Ormeau (On the Gold Coast)

    Ph :- (07) 5540 7677
    Email :- a-gradeanodising@bigpond.com

    I spoke to the lady there on the phone at first,And she said that if I wanted I could send the parts by mail,With a reply paid envelope/Package inside,So they could be put in and returned to me on finishing.There is a one week turn around for the time they recieve the parts,Untill their finished.

    Mind blowing range of colours available too.Two different greens,Yellow,Red ,Blue,Black,Purple,Gold,Titanuim,Gun Metal,And the list goes on and on.

    Seeing the sample board of colours made my brain hurt ,As I raced through picturing my Revo in the different hues.The yellow looked unreal!
    But I stuck with my original game plan,And red she is.

    Cheers. 3.3

    Highly recommended.Hope I've been of some help.
    Last edited by 3.3; 07-02-2008 at 02:52 AM.
    TRAXXAS...................Should be :- KIXXAS.

  17. #17
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    Your head has come out sick great job, look forward to seeing the rest of your build.

    Very helpful thanks for the info mate, there are a couple more places I'll try down here in Melb but if I have no joy I'll give A-Grade a call, good to know the yellow looks sick that's the colour I want to go.

    With the head what about polishing the ano off useing Autosol polish and a fabric polsihing wheel on a rotary tool that should be about to get at the dome and flat all in one go, IDK just what I thought of doing with my what do you think?
    Brad

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I think this is going to be the coolest red build ever, Nice work
    My sig is way extra more better than yours!

  19. #19
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    Very nice!
    Get your vote on.

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    lookin good...........
    Keep spendin $$ and ur still in the way!!

  21. #21
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    sorry for kinda off topic but how did you take the picture and get the backround of it so white and buitful?

  22. #22
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    i could be wrong but i think its a close up and the parts are on his tile floor, Then the flash makes it really white
    Jato 3.3 "New" Revo 3.3 Revo 3.3

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. KyLeader7's Avatar
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    hah looks sweet man! lets see it all installed!!
    Learn by doing

  24. #24
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    Hi Bradus,
    I would imagine if you persisted with Autosol,It would eventually break through the anodizing due to it's gritty type compound.I have decided to leave it anodized (No sanding or polishing).

    Revo Madness,
    Cookie has it.It's just the flash on my tiled floor that is producing the background that way.

    On to the mill.....


    I have added a few items from the Platinum here as you can see,Which are :-40mm fly wheel,Air filter,And header,I also added a roto start.

    The header is attached with the spring that came with my Trinity pipe.It seems to be shorter in lenght,And it also seems to have a bit more pull than the Traxxas one.It was used to produce a more snug fit.

    The removal of the easy start system called for a roto setup,And I chose the product Hot Bodies are offering (Back plate and starter).This roto start wouldn't allow the use of the black back plate that came with the Platinum header,But it's still a very nice fit without it,And with the added strenght of the Trinity pipe spring,It's a nice tidy combination.

    I have chosen to screw my ride together with stainless fixings.All screws that attach the head,Roto backplate,And the grub screw in the carby throttle arm were changed out to stainless,And hit with blue (Medium strenght) thread locker.Also swapped out the front cap screw in the air filter.

    My plug choice is a new one for me,And after gettin some good reviews here at Traxxas.com from members,I've installed an MC-59.I was previously running the O.S. #8.

    I have left the standard clutch bell on that came stock on my Revo.15 tooth.

    Just need to find a black throttle boot somewhere.

    Check it out.....







    I just finished fileing and sanding all the battle scars from my Trinity pipe,And it's now soaking in oven cleaner.I wonder what will happen .

    Cheers. 3.3
    Last edited by 3.3; 07-03-2008 at 06:56 AM.
    TRAXXAS...................Should be :- KIXXAS.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3.3
    ...
    Just need to find a black throttle boot somewhere.
    ...
    Any of the blue rubber or plastic pieces on the truck can be dyed with Rit clothing dye. If it is already colored it will have to go darker, but you want black so it isn't a problem. The throttle boot, pivot ball seals, driveshaft boots, and whatever else I'm forgetting should all be able to be dyed with no problem.

    Oh yeah, everything looks awesome so far, keep up the good work

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by trx33
    Any of the blue rubber or plastic pieces on the truck can be dyed with Rit clothing dye. If it is already colored it will have to go darker, but you want black so it isn't a problem. The throttle boot, pivot ball seals, driveshaft boots, and whatever else I'm forgetting should all be able to be dyed with no problem.

    Oh yeah, everything looks awesome so far, keep up the good work
    You can also throw in your rockers and the adjustment thinger on the brakes
    My sig is way extra more better than yours!

  27. #27
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    just wondering, couldnt you anodize the header, possibly the crankcase, and all the screws on the revo?
    ..and when I looked to the left I saw a parked car

  28. #28
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    Let us know if there are any ill effects of not removing the anodising.
    I looked all over the place trying to find Rit dye but couldn't find it anywhere so I ended up buying yellow Uni-Care dye instead, which turns out to be the brand name Rit dye is sold under in oz, as the bag the dye comes in has Rit written on it. Think I'll be get some black now as well.
    Brad

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHEEZBURGER
    You can also throw in your rockers and the adjustment thinger on the brakes
    Oh yeah, I was just thinking of blue things, but those would definitely look good black, too. I'm getting anxious waiting to see this finished. Very nice so far.

  30. #30
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    Lookin' good 3.3!!! I think red Revo's look great.
    I used a black sharpie to color the small drive shaft boots. Maybee this will work for your carb slider boot.

    _
    /_/._ _ _
    / //_ /_ /_/

  31. #31
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    Hi gang,
    TRX33,I have already tried to dye my rockers and throttle boot,And all the grey brake parts with a product called Dylon.It is a fabric dye but in powder form.....It simply did not work.....

    I followed Misbehavin's instructions to the letter,But the parts only came out to be a dark grey.Did them for 1/2 an hour the first time,Then two hours the second time.....Still the same. .Got some black Rit liquid comin now from the States to hopefully rectify the dyeing issues.

    Jato Driver,
    I spose ya could do the header and crankcase,But I think it'd be a bit of red overkill for my taste.I like the way it's broken up with the standard finish on the crank,And the factory header finish will flow with my now shiney Trinity pipe.The standard Revo screws can't be anodized,As they are not aluminium.

    Bradus,
    Will keep ya posted on the head.Will be a while before I see any results though.

    Hi Atomic,
    Thanks for the tip on the Sharpie,Your ride looks killer.Have seen it here before,And was wonderin about a few of the finer details on ya ride.Thanks for sharin.

    I chose to go red as I'm puttin on the Traxxas aluminium push rods and rocker arms.And although these can be anodized,It would ruin the laser etched Traxxas logos that look so trick.So I chose to go red with my chassis and other parts to work in with the rods.Also the shock springs are red.I know these can be painted,Or bought from after market companys in different colours,But red just works for me.I may yet still have some splashs of blue through the car yet.....Not entirely sure.....

    The pipe..........
    This thing has had ALOT of time spent on it to get it to this stage.First the fileing off of all the scratches from previous crashes.Then the stripping with oven cleaner.Then sanding with the following grades of wet and dry sand paper.220,600,And finally 1500.The stinger was then drilled out one bit size larger to clean it up nice.And then,Alot of polishing time.I used Autosol for the finish.But it didn't end there.

    My pipe hanger wire was straightened out and rebent for that perfect fit when mounting,It was also trimmed to lenght so that none of the hanger wire was sticking out the top of the pipe mounting lug.The pipe now sits squarely on the chassis,And not on an angle.It was a tedious task.I also added a 4mm stainless grub screw.

    Then on the mock up mounting,I found the Traxxas coupler was too large in diameter to get a nice seal on the Trinity pipe end.It would have bunched and definantly leaked when I pulled on the cable tie.To sort this out,I got some 1/2 inch fuel line of my mate's drag car,Soaked it in boiling water,And slid it over the end.....The coupler now fits like a glove.....

    Total estimated hands on time spent on this pipe,excluding over cleaner soaking,Would be about 5 solid hours.

    Stoked with the result,And fit...Worth every minute...







    Not sure what to attack next...So much to do...

    Cheers. 3.3
    Last edited by 3.3; 07-04-2008 at 05:57 AM.
    TRAXXAS...................Should be :- KIXXAS.

  32. #32
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    you should polish the trinity pipe with a high speed polisher to get it to a mirror shine finish..I see light scratches on it ..
    Last edited by zoraduntov; 07-04-2008 at 07:41 AM.

  33. #33
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    Did you have the water hot when you tried to dye the parts? The parts will take the color much better if they are heated up. You can basically boil the parts in the dye for a long time. The parts will kind of soften up and take the color much better. I can't remember if Misbehavin's article mentioned heat, but I find it necessary to get a truly dark black with the Rit dye.

  34. #34
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    Hi Zoraduntov,
    The polish I used (Autosol) is pretty abrasive,And I was thinking of finishing it off with (Mothers) polish on the final install.

    You mention a high speed method.What sort of RPM would you class as high speed?I use my dremel on it's lowest speed,And then finish by hand.I have found that at high speeds,I don't seem to get as good a finish.

    Trx33,
    Yeah mate,I did it as follows :- Boiled the water,As it was boiling,I added the dye,Let the water come back on the boil and then added the parts.I then turned the heat down to a simmer,And left the parts in the water simmering for 1/2 an hour the first time,And on my second attempt,I used the same method,But the simmering time was two hours.The water was indeed hot.

    I can only put it down to the brand of dye I used.And after reading everyone else is using Rit with good results.I have ordered some for my next attempt.

    Building my shocks now as I wait for the dye to arrive.

    Cheers. 3.3
    TRAXXAS...................Should be :- KIXXAS.

  35. #35
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    just polish it to the point where you are pleased with it.
    It does look good though !

  36. #36
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    Shocks...
    Tuning suspension has been a favourite tweakin exercise on my R/C cars for years.It's great when ya finally find that sweet setup for your drivin style,Or local track.

    My shocks have had a few aftermarket parts added from the stock versions.I chose to go with MIP bodies.They are aluminium,Hard anodized black,And finished with a teflon coating.The MIP's are the same dimensions as the standard bodies,So the top and bottom caps are a direct fit.Performance will definantly be lifted with the addition of the teflon coating too.The black should also tie in nicely with my colour scheme.

    I've installed the new Platinum variable dampening pistons aswell.And upgraded from the original shafts to Traxxas's titanuim nitrade coated shafts.
    The plastic shock ends have also been changed out to a set of aluminium models,And were fixed with a drop of medium strenght threadlock.




    All shocks received a coat of Team Assocciated's Green Slime on the X ring (Bottom) seal.This stuff has long been a favourite addition of mine for shock rebuilds.I also used Team Assocciated's 40wt oil all round (Front and rear)

    The front pair are running the #1 pistons of the variable variety for less resistance,And the rear pair are running #3 pistons to reduce squat,And take that little extra rear end weight.

    Up front are green springs,And silvers in the rear.I ran this spring combo with my stock shocks,And it was much better for me than the standard white front,And rear green combo.

    My oil,Spring,And piston choices may change after running the truck.But this will be a good starting point from what I've learned through driving my Revo so far.

    I tested the rebound with no springs on,And the front and rear pairs matched up perfectly.I also added a second pair of spring tension adjusters to the rear shocks,So they can be locked in place,Reducing their ability to creep/self adjust.

    My results are.....SMOOOOOOOOOOTH.....REAL SMOOOOOOOOOOTH!




    GREEN SLIME
    Regards. 3.3
    TRAXXAS...................Should be :- KIXXAS.

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Those look very nice, I kinda want to try those pistons out, but they might not be needed for bashing
    My sig is way extra more better than yours!

  38. #38
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    I guess it has to just be the dye then. I wouldn't have thought the different brands would be that different. If that doesn't work, just let the parts simmer for a VERY long time. The shocks look awesome. I think it's time to start putting some bigger pieces together; .

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHEEZBURGER
    Those look very nice, I kinda want to try those pistons out, but they might not be needed for bashing
    ur right......pretty much a race set up.

    build looks excellent kinda like SUNDEVIL(i think that was his name) from a few yrs back!!!
    Last edited by jusleanit; 07-08-2008 at 12:15 PM.
    Keep spendin $$ and ur still in the way!!

  40. #40
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    Not needed, but they sure are not going to hurt!

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