What Hop-ups To Buy

[duneordie]

got a slash after seein my dads, ive got about $350 a main has them in stock and shipping is about 16 bucks, so with what i have left what should i get, like carriers or shocks, im gonna put a max and velineon in it, i was thinkin big bores and a set of aluminum casters all around, is the al. steering linkage necessary? looks cool even if not LMK, moneys burin a hole, lol

[69Malibu]

it aint needed. instead look into rpm arms for it.

[Slasher]

I would also recommend the aluminum steering knuckles (aka bearing carriers). On my first few runs after I got the truck I never did any jumping. Just fast driving over really rough terrain. I still bent the caster screw-pin which lead to a huge gash in the stock carrier.

You'd only need 2 caster blocks. The rear axles don't use them. I still use stock knuckles in the back, too, because without the stress of steering linkage bending and moving, those parts aren't subject to breakage.

Maybe get a good 7 cell pack. Otherwise, I'd leave the stock power system in place. You'd be out of your budget with a new one any way. Big bore shocks are some what pricey, too.

Have fun with it before you start making all kinds of changes. Save up that money for what you discover you really need.



PS. For aluminum caster blocks, you'll need king pins.

[SavagePede]

When I get the Slash, here's the list of parts I'm going to put on it:

RPM: front a arms, front/rear shock towers and bearing carriers
TRX: aluminum bellcrank and caster blocks (w/ VXL kingpins)

I will also be purchasing a Kimbrough #124 servo saver (gas truck servo saver), since the stock unit lacks a little to be desired.

Personally, and it may be different for you, but I try to stay away from as much aluminum as possible. Caster blocks and bulkheads (along with the FLM tranny case) are the exceptions, but as far as arms and shock towers go, I prefer to use RPM products.

[MR. Clean]

it aint needed. instead look into rpm arms for it.

why does everyone say that? I have 4 trucks, the oldest one is about 4, and I havn't had problems with the stock. Is it wider?

[Slasher]

Nah. RPM just has the rep for not breaking.

I broke one rear a-arm when I had a Stampede. But it took lots of hitting rocks (in a huge pile of rocks) underneath to break it.

Stock arms should hold up for a very long time.

[69Malibu]

msot of the times when something happens to my arms it is holes being ripped apart. i just tried to fit a set of nitro arms on my slash and wasnt happy with no options for shock positions.

[duneordie]

i already have the b/l setup, we jsut put my mm and c4 5700 in his and it rips, i just know i hated the shocks on my t-maxx and these are ecentually the same, was gonna get rpm's, and the front caster blocks i guess, what about trx turnbuckles and camber links? anybody run them on their pede or rusty?

[TurboLark]

I have had my slash for 3 days. Was palying hard on my friends BMX park. First thing I did was pop the rear shock caps. Filled with 40wt and got back to it. Had to stop when one of the shock shafts bent. My friend has dont the same already and on his recomendation I will be getting aluminum shocks for mine. Just need to figure out which ones to get.
The shock towers also seem a bit flimsey to me, so I may get those as well.

[SavagePede]

I wouldn't mess around with TRX camber links/turnbuckles. The stock ones are actually better than the TRX ones. Odd as that may sound, but steel > aluminum in the strength department. That, and IIRC, the TRX links are hollow.

For shock towers I highly recommend the RPM units. Since there's room in the front, get the nitro 'Pede/Ruster front shock tower because it has a cross member linking the two sides. It'll be 100x stiffer than the stock noodle. The rear is also much stiffer than the stock unit, plus I think the RPM towers look better.

[FatBandit]

I have to agree with Slasher on this one, keep it stock and run it to find the things you really need to upgrade. I have found the the shock caps pop relatively easily, I replaced with Aluminum Shock caps and havent had a problem since. I also put heavy grease in the Diff to keep it from unloading the inside wheel on turn (keeps the accidental donuts to a minimum). I also dropped a VXL in it, which is fun, but not necessary, the 12 turn on a 7 cell is definitely enough for the intended use of the Slash. Just my 2 cents, hope this helps.

[duneordie]

WELL, i confiscated my dads since hes gone and ordered him a new one.. lol, put the mm and a c4 5700 in it, on 2s lipos it rips, i ordered a epic 19turn and tried it out while i was goofin with it today and its a drastic improvement over the titan, but what does anybody and leave stock anyways, lol, so when his gets here i can put that motor on for him and then show him mine/his brushless and lipo'd its his first rc so I'm sure he will be thrilled with it that way, i was thinking of buying one then he did and had it shipped to me since he is working nearby right now, these things rip, lol i think its faster than my xxx-t with the vel, and its geard 26-80 on the same batts, but the motor is bigger, but no matter what was in it, it was a blast to drive!! thanks guys im ordered out, i got some 3s lipos and the al front end stuff, will get rpm's locally in a few weeks, this hobby takes too much money!

[Dukelion]

I have already replaced the front a-arms with Blue RPM A-Arms. Look at getting an extra rear skidplate (The stampede rear skidplate works). I also added big bore shocks on the front and I have seen a really nice improvement. I am looking into better tires now (my original ones are wearing down bad).

[Seattle Slew]

Link for the big bore shocks?
popped my stock cap - that front end takes a beating at 30 mph thru the gravel/rocks/dirt - but a good hit on an unexpected boulder and bam! back to the shop.

[69Malibu]

oaky i got the traxxas castors, steering bellcrank, and a 19t modified motor in my slash and the truck really wants to move. here are some pcis of the truck:

[SirPsycho]

Part numbers???

[sabotage10]

69malibu, how did the traxxas castors and steering bellcrank fit? I just picked them up myself and I'm wondering if I needed anything else to make them work or if they are direct bolt-on parts. Thanks

[Slasher]

You'll need king pins with aluminum casters. The supplied screw-pins are too wide.

[!bungle]

I re-used the silver hex-head screw-in pins from my Slash in my Traxxas red aluminum caster blocks and they fit perfectly... they are pre-threaded from the bottom. I wonder why yours didn't work? I also installed the aluminum steering rack, but I had to shave about half a millimeter from the plastic to keep it from rubbing. Everything works great!

[mzs_biteme]

Link for the big bore shocks?
popped my stock cap - that front end takes a beating at 30 mph thru the gravel/rocks/dirt - but a good hit on an unexpected boulder and bam! back to the shop.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...BORE&search=Go

I'd just get the Big Bore caps... They fit on the stock plastic cylinders very tightly, and WILL NOT pop off....

[Team Riptide 17]

I re-used the silver hex-head screw-in pins from my Slash in my Traxxas red aluminum caster blocks and they fit perfectly... they are pre-threaded from the bottom. I wonder why yours didn't work? I also installed the aluminum steering rack, but I had to shave about half a millimeter from the plastic to keep it from rubbing. Everything works great!

Ditto on both counts. I used the screw in king pins on my red aluminum caster blocks. I also had to shave that amount of plastic from the chassis brace to allow room for the aluminum bell crank. It is perfect now.
I have also installed red aluminum bearing carriers, red aluminum turnbuckles, and a Swami bar. Next is RPM shock towers and maybe a-arms.

TR