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  1. #121
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    that is a very good looking truck..i really like those tires
    Been there, done that.

  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by Popoxx
    Finally, I broke more than 2 servos... I broke also the head of 3 titanium screws. I managed to remove one of the screw, but it's mpossible to remove the others



    Because of two screws, I'm obliged to buy new rear bulks

    I noticed that the titanium screws of the bulks often break rather than bend. What about alu screws ? They bend or break ?

    I need your experience
    ouch that stinks ! You could use a screw extractor kit, only issue would be you need a stronger than titanium drill bit to drill a hole in the screw end lol. By that time/purchase it would probably be cheaper to buy a new bulkhead. since you asked I recommend Tony Screws LINK, or Hex Heads armour screwsLINK for your next attempt (both sell just the size and quantity you need also, dont have to get full kit). With aluminum screws the heads strip very easily and stainless bend like lead and snap off aswell. My opinions

  3. #123
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    Thanks jayjay283 ! I bought some 3x10mm Armor Plated screws

    I hope Hexscrews is right concerning the strenght of their AP screws :



    I'm going to test that !!
    Last edited by cooleocool; 07-28-2008 at 07:58 PM. Reason: edited wrong post

  4. #124
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Just go to McMaster.com or boltdepot.com and order grade 12.9 screws. It's a lot cheaper. I bought a box(100 screws) of 3x12mm (and other sizes) for $9.71 and then parted it with my friends here.
    Brushless Emaxx
    Brushless Kyosho ST RR
    Supermaxx

  5. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by george16
    Just go to McMaster.com or boltdepot.com and order grade 12.9 screws. It's a lot cheaper. I bought a box(100 screws) of 3x12mm (and other sizes) for $9.71 and then parted it with my friends here.
    Thanks for the links but I really need "unbreakable" screws

  6. #126
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    Popoxx, for the screw that is still in your bulkhead just use a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and slot it so you can use a flathead to get it out. I know it will leave a cut in your bulk, but it is way cheaper and your skid will hide it anyway. I have had to do it a lot for me and my friends.
    Hope that helps.
    As for "unbreakable" screws, please let me know if you ever find any. I have broke every flavor of screw and also want an unbreakable screw.
    3905 Neu 1515/1.5D, MGM22418, 2x2S2P 8000Mah

  7. #127
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    New servos !

    And the adventure continues

    I received my new servos : two Futaba BLS451 Brushless High-Torque/Speed Servos (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXRJS5&P=ML) and some spare parts.







    Here are some pics to show the differences between a Futaba servo and a Traxxas 2056/2075 servo :








  8. #128
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    And some pics of the assembly :











    The Futaba servos fit perfectly ! I use them with my Futaba 3PM radio (HRS mode) and they work very well. I will confirm that this weekend

  9. #129
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Interesting similarities between the two servos, on the top of the case at any rate. I wonder if futaba OEMs the servos for traxxas or something along those lines...

    Hopefully no more broken screws this time
    READ THE FAQ!
    or else.....

  10. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suicideneil
    Interesting similarities between the two servos, on the top of the case at any rate. I wonder if futaba OEMs the servos for traxxas or something along those lines...
    Hopefully no more broken screws this time
    It's exactly what I wondered

    Concerning the screws, I think I found the problem : as soon as the titanium skidplate is bent and applies pressure on the bumper, it's above all the four screws of the bulks/skidplate which take the hits. So I'm going to saw the part of the skid which is stuck to the rear bumper.
    And I hope that the Armor Plated screws from Hexscrews will reinforce the setup. Test this weekend

    The pics of the operation will be more comprehensible than my explanations... !
    Last edited by Popoxx; 08-07-2008 at 05:48 PM.

  11. #131
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    Skidplate mod

    I cut the end of my HCR titanium skiplates (and I destroyed the blade of my jigsaw ) because they were a little twisted (I'm a hard basher ) and it was the 4 screws of the bulks which take the hits... (and when a titanium screw is stuck in an expensive GA bulk it's irritating !!! ).

    Here are some pics of the mod :

    Front :







    Rear :







    Today : test of my new servos and my new screws with the skidplate mod

  12. #132
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    Again...

    New options and spare parts



    I found a very useful part to protect the fans of the Novak HV ESCs : http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTLL7&P=7.

    This protection allows 2 things :
    - To prevent the fan from popping out (yes it's possible )
    - To prevent the battery connectors to damage the fan

    Here are some pics of the assembly :












  13. #133
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    And to resolve definitively (I hope) the problem of the bulk screws, I bought the RPM wearplates :











    Next step : Proline Mulcher and Maximizer beadlocks

  14. #134
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Mmm, diggin' the all-black look there dude. The wearplates are really nice items, definately worth having.

    Interestingly, someone once emailed RPM to ask about having a center skid made for the gorillamaxx chassis (G2 and G3), but RPM said they dont make aftermarket parts.. for aftermarket parts. Their $$$ loss I guess.
    READ THE FAQ!
    or else.....

  15. #135
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    Yes it's a pity

    With my old 3906 E-Maxx I had a nice GPM alu center skidplate which protected all the transmission :



    I hope a manufacturer will make that for the 3905

  16. #136
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    The RPM wearplates will definately help. Whoever thought we'd need to provide protection for the titanium skids that are providing protection, so to speak?

    I added a RPM plate to the front of my E-Maxx about 3 months. Which happens to have GA 7075 Bulks, loaded with Hexcrews AP screws and protected by GA Titanium skidplates. No doubt great minds think alike

    I will be picking up one of those fan guards too. Make that 2. I will be adding a HV 6.5 to my E-Revo as well. That was a NICE find.

    I can not believe I just stumbled upon this thread. Your truck & stomping grounds look real nice. I have spent several minutes(read 30)browsing your build.

    Well done for sure !!!!
    Y-Town Competition Crawlers Team Driver

  17. #137
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    Thanks a lot RC Shocker

    I will have soon the same bulks/skidplates/wearplates/screws setup (I'm going to receive my Hexscrews AP ).

  18. #138
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    New look !

    I received my new wheels & tires and a new body style !!!!!


    Pro-Line Maxx Mulcher : http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAHA4&P=7.
    Maximizer beadlocks : http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXNWP7&P=ML.











    Some comparison pics between stock wheels & tires / Vantage Racing HX5 / Proline Mulcher with Maximizer beadlocks :




  19. #139
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    And some pics of the assembly :














    I love the new look of my E-maxx

  20. #140
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    Mulchers are mean treads. A buddy of mine has them for his Maxx and loves 'em. You'll definitely need to re-seed your lawn after running these through it
    Traxxas: Stampede, E Maxx
    Losi: Muggy

  21. #141
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    I tested my new Mulcher tires and they are great, awesome, fantastic, incredible...

    They climb what you want (and you're right SavagePede you need to re-seed your lawn - and even the forest - after ). They are perfect for the bashers !!

    The Vantage Racing tires were really dedicated to.... RACING

    Now I can say that I found all the major options for my E-Maxx





    Maybe

  22. #142
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    Updated list

    The ultimate option list for hard bashers



    Next step : PLAY

  23. #143
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    You need this to protect the servos:

    Debris Guard for ALL E-Maxx Models






  24. #144
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    I knew this option but I won't like the look of my E-maxx with it. Moreover I have never damaged a servo of my 3905 or 3906 E-Maxx, although they are very exposed. And I prefer keeping the RPM wearplates

    Thanks for the recommendation nevertheless

  25. #145
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    VIdeo VideO viDeO ViDEo

    New vid !

    Unfortunately this new vid is rather short .

    Watch it to know why : http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=kJWcHxfmub8

  26. #146
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Ouch.

    I forsee yet more options for testing after that little accident....
    READ THE FAQ!
    or else.....

  27. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suicideneil
    Ouch.

    I forsee yet more options for testing after that little accident....
    Yes but which option for the chassis ? Gorillamaxx ? For a basher I don't think it's the best solution...

    I broke the only part I didn't upgrade











    I was so happy to run my E-Maxx after a hard week of work
    And the session lasted 5 minutes !!! Bad day...

  28. #148
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Nice vid. Ouch on the old crash. Tyres look really really nice!

  29. #149
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    The newera or kershawdesigns chassis braces would be good, but that wont stop the chassis itself braking- unless Dan comes out with those reinforcing plates. You could make your own I suppose, wouldnt be too difficult- couple bits of 1/8" thick aluminium plate cut to shape, then drilled, countersunk and fixed to the chassis with some slightly longer screws than stock. Other than that, the G4 chassis is the nicest option, or dan's chassis- but it really isnt a nice as I would have expected..
    READ THE FAQ!
    or else.....

  30. #150
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    Definitely a *** chassis and the adapter for the 3905 tranny.

  31. #151
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    thats the reason why i like to keep the stock plastic bulks. exact same thing happened to me, but the bulks broke instead of the chassis. i think changing out the chassis is like twice as much work to change out the bulks. someone should really come out with a chassis brace..
    www.knoxxgear.com

  32. #152
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Lots of people have still snapped their chassis with stock bulks fitted- depends alot on how you land/crash exactly. In my case, the force of the impact got transfered through the bulks and into the chassis braces (gorillamaxx), if I had a stock truck the entire front half of the truck would have exploded into a million little bits of plastic. As it is, I just had to buy a couple new X-braces, and problem solved (I'll be able to make my own in future, using the damaged ones as a template).
    READ THE FAQ!
    or else.....

  33. #153
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    I think I'm going to buy another stock chassis rather than buy an aluminium chassis. The FLM, KD and Gorillamaxx chassis look good but I really don't like the battery trays and the low CG (Gorillamaxx).

    Nevertheless, to reinforce my setup I will buy these Golden Horizons chassis braces when they will be available (I don't like the design of the New Era Models & KD chassis braces) :


    Link : http://www.ghhobby.com/proddetail.php?prod=2571.

    If FLM releases an alu chassis dedicated to 3905 E-Maxx, with the same CG, maybe I will buy it
    But for the moment I keep the stock chassis.

  34. #154
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    Popoxx, Kershaw and new era have nice one two.
    If you decide too buy one pair, we can order together and reduce the shipping costs.

    I have a question too :
    Did you have issue with the rpm carrier and the pilot ball, since i install the rpm carrier and the 7075 pilot ball, they pull out the carrier. I will install the traxxas carrier because orginal pilot ball and 7075 pilot balls have the same size.

    Thx :

    In french :
    Si tu commandes une paire de longerons, ca m'interesse de passer comande avec toi, on pourrait ainsi rédeuire les frais de transports. Les new era ont l'air bien.

    Est ce que tu as des problèmes avec les boules rotules avec les fusées RPM ?
    Depsuis que je les ai installées, ca n'arrete pas de se déboiter.

    Forg.
    Traxxas E-maxx 3905 HV 6.5
    Xray XT8

  35. #155
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    Unfortunately I ordered the new FLM chassis for the 3905 E-Maxx (with chassis braces included...), but the shipping cost from KD are convenable I think.

    Concerning RPM carriers and pivot balls, these ones never pop out, even after hard bash sessions. But I use the stock Traxxas pivot balls (I had bought for my 3906 E-Maxx the Traxxas 7075 T-6 optional pivot balls but I broke them within 2 sessions - rip off...). Maybe the optional pivot balls are a bit smaller than the stock ones ?

  36. #156
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    no both are 10.9mm. it's why i think it's curious.
    I have a second pair of rpm carrier, i will try them
    Traxxas E-maxx 3905 HV 6.5
    Xray XT8

  37. #157
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    Ooooh I likey that body...

    Anyone know of some pre painted bodies?

  38. #158
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    I love the look of them tires! Do you get a new body like every 2 weeks? lol, cuz in every pic the body is so clean! I love the colors of the blue body, I also love the look of the black chassis! Be sure to post up some new pics when you get your aluminum chassis!
    Rawfuls,
    according to this thread,
    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=437870
    there is no prepainted bodies other than stock.
    I want to get this body,
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPLW8&P=7
    and spray bomb it metallic blue to match my blue maxx!
    thanks
    Rustler VXL, all FLM and RPM!

  39. #159
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    Ehh.... I see a couple here and there prepainted bodies, but nothing THAT good.
    If only people would sell stockers.

    Edit:
    What do you mean, by "Spray bomb"
    Eh? I'm new =/

  40. #160
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    use a spray paint, special kind for painting rc's. probably can get it at your lhs!
    Rustler VXL, all FLM and RPM!

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