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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjsrustler2.5R
    Well my os 21tm engine for my jato is on its way, about to be apart of thw 21 club soon. Does the motor come with high speed needle or do I need to buy one separate? can't wait
    Congrats bro on the new engine. Just post up if you have ?'s. Plenty of help on here now for the .21TM.

    BTW, don't never, ever, never ever, touch that third needle. Just use the HS and LS. The third needle on an O.S. is no joke.
    REVO LRP .30x

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by revonitro
    Congrats bro on the new engine. Just post up if you have ?'s. Plenty of help on here now for the .21TM.

    BTW, don't never, ever, never ever, touch that third needle. Just use the HS and LS. The third needle on an O.S. is no joke.
    your right the third needle is to test how much self control you have lol
    drive it like you stole it !!!!!

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by revonitro
    BTW, don't never, ever, never ever, touch that third needle. Just use the HS and LS. The third needle on an O.S. is no joke.
    y did u scare him bout that 3rd needle didnt tell him anything wrong tho
    Keep spendin $$ and ur still in the way!!

  4. #404
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    But once you know how it work you can make them run soooo good.
    World fastest E-revo 91.2mph / Revo 75mph
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  5. #405
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    Cool thanks guys I def check my to make sure the needle is tight when I get it, this discussion forum has been very helpful. I'll be sure to keep your comments about the 3rd needle in mind. Haha thanks guys

    And by way I should use the motor saver air filter right?

  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by Over_revO
    But once you know how it work you can make them run soooo good.
    I never touched mine. I told everybody you know way to much about nitro engines bro. Wish I knew where to start with it.

    I got when is comes to that third needle.

    hjsrustler2.5R Cool thanks guys I def check my to make sure the needle is tight when I get it, this discussion forum has been very helpful. I'll be sure to keep your comments about the 3rd needle in mind. Haha thanks guys

    And by way I should use the motor saver air filter right?
    The motorsaver is fine, but the Ofna 1/8 filters I think are better. No plastic housing the crack or break, just rinse, lube and go.
    REVO LRP .30x

  7. #407
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    well the 21 is in my jato! Haven't run it to the max yet but i'm gonna give it another go.

    However, leaving it sitting and idleing it overheats, but when I am running it hard the temps come back down? Any comments why this is happening?
    Jato o.s.21TM,19/36,7075-T6 Chasis/DC Res

  8. #408
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    Running too lean?

  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjsrustler2.5R
    well the 21 is in my jato! Haven't run it to the max yet but i'm gonna give it another go.

    However, leaving it sitting and idleing it overheats, but when I am running it hard the temps come back down? Any comments why this is happening?
    Never had a temp prob with my .21TM. Was tough getting them over 210, but my old .18TM ran 260-280 until the pinch wa gone, then the temps dropped. Just take your time on the breakin, staying on the rich side, and don't lean it out to early.
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  10. #410
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    Revonitro you said "but my old .18TM ran 260-280 until the pinch wa gone, then the temps dropped." What do you mean by "the pinch"?
    Jato o.s.21TM,19/36,7075-T6 Chasis/DC Res

  11. #411
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    he means the compression
    Keep spendin $$ and ur still in the way!!

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjsrustler2.5R
    Revonitro you said "but my old .18TM ran 260-280 until the pinch wa gone, then the temps dropped." What do you mean by "the pinch"?
    A new engine has a lot of pinch, that tight fit of the piston at the top of the sleeve. At near a gallon that tight pinch loosened up at the temps dropped. The engine will also run stronger after that metal to metal pinch is gone.
    REVO LRP .30x

  13. #413
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    Ok thanks justleanit and revonitro that makes sense and also I'm glad to hear that it gets stronger at the gallon mark or so because right now it just seem like it should have more uuumph. I mean the low end torque in unbelievable, but it just feels like its being held back towards the top speed. Also have you guys leaned the 21tm LSN "in" past the two turns out factory settings. I know the factory settings are 2-2.5 turns out from closed, but I just don't know how far this engine can be leaned being that this is the first motor other than a traxxas motor that I have ever owned.
    Jato o.s.21TM,19/36,7075-T6 Chasis/DC Res

  14. #414
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    if ur bottom end is already right, like u said then dont touch. all u need to do is dial in the HSN and youll be str8.wut pipe are u runnin on this engine. make sure everything is tight and hasnt rattled loose around the carb and hi speed needle
    Keep spendin $$ and ur still in the way!!

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by jusleanit
    if ur bottom end is already right, like u said then dont touch. all u need to do is dial in the HSN and youll be str8.wut pipe are u runnin on this engine. make sure everything is tight and hasnt rattled loose around the carb and hi speed needle
    I agree. If ur low end is good and temps are good, lean the thang out, just take your time doing it. 1/12 turn at a time till you get some tanks through it. O.S. engines are made vey well and not finicky at all.

    Go back to the gearing section of the thread. When u have good tork, taller gearing is in your favor for more top end.
    REVO LRP .30x

  16. #416
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    I am running the dual chamber resenator pipe
    Jato o.s.21TM,19/36,7075-T6 Chasis/DC Res

  17. #417
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    [QUOTE=hjsrustler2.5R]I am running the dual chamber resenator pipe

    I would save the $ on another pipe and just bore the stinger on the stock pipe as far as you are comfortable. I tested the BUKU, and it will improve low end, but you don't need that. It sounds really good, but I saw no improvement in top end with the .21TM performance and it was not nearly as good as my Ofna 2607 on my JLR.12. Every pipe don't work for every engine.

    Because the stock pipe is still a little restictive, after your bore the stinger out, get a larger header than the RS4 or a BB header. Just put a small gasket inside the larger BB gasket and strap it on. Works very well and saves the cash for something else.
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  18. #418
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    I had drilled the stinger on the stock blue pipe, but I use that for another car. Can my dual chamber traxxas res pipe be drilled also? I haven't drilled my dual chamber because i thought it might disrupt the back pressure.
    Jato o.s.21TM,19/36,7075-T6 Chasis/DC Res

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjsrustler2.5R
    I had drilled the stinger on the stock blue pipe, but I use that for another car. Can my dual chamber traxxas res pipe be drilled also? I haven't drilled my dual chamber because i thought it might disrupt the back pressure.
    Not sure, but if the material is the same, go for it. You won't have any bac pressure issues with the .21TM. Take a look at the carb, and compare it to the 3.3 carb. It can meter a lot more fuel than the smaller carb, so you can increase engine performance by getting the added exhaust out faster.

    Here is how far I went on my stock pipe. There is still a little meat left to go further, but any thinner may cause the stinger to be weak and brea during flip or crash.

    REVO LRP .30x

  20. #420
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    revonitro.... just for clarification :
    the very early video u'd posted after installing
    that .21 on your jato .. was it before or after sending it to a.b moded ?

  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by Desert JATO
    revonitro.... just for clarification :
    the very early video u'd posted after installing
    that .21 on your jato .. was it before or after sending it to a.b moded ?
    It was before AB mods Stage(2) and only tan(7) i think. It's in the thread with the video. After the mod, it gain about .2HP up to 1.4/1.5 HP. That's a lot of power for any SB engine.

    The 3.3 still had more rpm, but not nearly the tork. Low end and mid range was excellent, but you sacrifice a couple MPH on the top...but only if your 3.3run really good like low mid 60's and you have radar...hard to tell with the eye. With 19/36 or 38 gearing, I could wheelie at 58-60mph.
    REVO LRP .30x

  22. #422
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    that's exactly what i needed you to say
    just to ensure all concerned readers that this is the top
    successful upgrade ever done yet !

    still transimition didn't scream of pain though
    better than sending already half life engine to be moded .. some extra cash also
    makes the difference here to be fully honost.

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by Desert JATO
    that's exactly what i needed you to say
    just to ensure all concerned readers that this is the top
    successful upgrade ever done yet !

    still transimition didn't scream of pain though
    better than sending already half life engine to be moded .. some extra cash also
    makes the difference here to be fully honost.
    Thanks for the compliment Desert JATO. Guess that's why the thread still going strong.

    And you are right. I put a full gallon of 30% through the enggine most of which was after AB mods stage (2) and never stripped a gear in the tranny or diff.

    I pulled the 21TM and broke it down to clean for storage, and it looked like new on the inside. That engine will last me forever.
    REVO LRP .30x

  24. #424
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    glad to hear this revonitro
    Your project should be always conceders first by anyone who wants to to do real upgrade…
    And from your comments above again many members should revise their way of adjusting their slipper clutch because many complain of stripping gear with stock trx3.3 which rises many question marks ???

  25. #425
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    revo.....what do you recomend for a BB header on my o.s 21 motor? I am currently running the rs4 header and I think I want to give the the BB header mod a try. thanks
    Jato o.s.21TM,19/36,7075-T6 Chasis/DC Res

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjsrustler2.5R
    revo.....what do you recomend for a BB header on my o.s 21 motor? I am currently running the rs4 header and I think I want to give the the BB header mod a try. thanks
    You need one similar to this. You can just insert a SB gasket inside the larger BB gasket and strap it on tight.

    BTW, you can also play with different header lengths. The shorter the header, the more top end.

    http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi...=&part_id=2336
    REVO LRP .30x

  27. #427
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    Thanks, I'm going to give this a try!
    Jato o.s.21TM,19/36,7075-T6 Chasis/DC Res

  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjsrustler2.5R
    Thanks, I'm going to give this a try!
    No problem. Just post up and let us know how she runs.
    REVO LRP .30x

  29. #429
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    Revo...I forgot to ask..will this BB header fit onto the o.s.21 jato and over the ez start etc. without any problems? http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi...=&part_id=2336.

    Also you had mentioned that "the shorter the header the more top end I will have" What would you consider this header to be short or long?
    Jato o.s.21TM,19/36,7075-T6 Chasis/DC Res

  30. #430
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    someone has gotta sicky this
    O.S.|HiTech|RPM|THS|50wt

  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjsrustler2.5R
    Revo...I forgot to ask..will this BB header fit onto the o.s.21 jato and over the ez start etc. without any problems? http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi...=&part_id=2336.

    Also you had mentioned that "the shorter the header the more top end I will have" What would you consider this header to be short or long?

    Have not tried it with the easy start, so I can't say for sure. I used a roto start to shed that weight. Also, the guys I run with laugh when they see ez starts. You look like a rooky to guys using bump and rotostarts.

    You may just have to play with the header length. My thought would be a little shorter would be better. I have almost the same header from another pipe and tested it with the drilled resonator.

    Low end improved drastically on my JLR.12, but the power came on so strong in the power band, like flipping on a light switch and the Jato just flip on its lid. I'm to old to be chasing my car down the street, so I went back to the 2607 combo quick. LOL
    REVO LRP .30x

  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxbomb
    someone has gotta sicky this
    Much thanks Maxbomb,

    I would second that, but I started the thread. The replies just caught up with the Gallery.

    Also, thanks guys for posting the questions in the thread for everyone to benefit. It also cut down on me having to respond to so many of the same PM questions.

    Mr.juarez,

    I woud try the RS4 header or this same BB header over the stock TM header. The RS4 is a lot smaller in diameter, but has about the same bend as the stocker.
    Last edited by revonitro; 10-27-2008 at 10:32 AM.
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  33. #433
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    actually u have exceeded the view post lol.....
    been there bought that

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by forbes
    actually u have exceeded the view post lol.....
    Thanks forbes, I guess you second that motion.
    REVO LRP .30x

  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjsrustler2.5R
    revo.....what do you recomend for a BB header on my o.s 21 motor? I am currently running the rs4 header and I think I want to give the the BB header mod a try. thanks
    I found this old pic. to give you an idea of a larger header compared to RS4 or stock. This is my SB 2607 pipe/header for my JLR.12. The .21TM has a much larger carb and can easily handle the larger BB header for much improved performance.

    REVO LRP .30x

  36. #436
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    I hear you guys about the ez-start I actually just got rid of it and installed the roto-start. I haven't run the car yet to see how much of a difference with out the extra weight because the weather just hasn't been great here in MA. But what do you expect? Its New England! 70 degrees one day, 1 foot of snow the next, haha.

    I tried installing that New Era big block header. I got it to fit just fine, but it just didn't run properly because I was using the traxxas resenator pipe. The performance was inconsistant and hard to tune. I'm sure if I used a different different pipe with that header it would run alot better.

    Revo......Where could I get just that header that you used for your JLR .12 in that picture?

    Also anyone know how this header would work in comparrison to the RS4 header which I am currently running?

    http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=DYN6599
    Jato o.s.21TM,19/36,7075-T6 Chasis/DC Res

  37. #437
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    You weather sounds like mine lately.

    I used my BB header with the drilled resonator. I had no tunning issues, but the low end power came on to abrupt, and made it difficult to keep the front end down.

    That header picture looks like the RS4, don't think it would be much better. Save the cash.

    The pipe/header I use is a combo set that I bought becuase is is matched for my engine. It is a pricey combo $109, and the header alone is like $49. I don't how great it would be with the modded .21TM didn't try it, but I would test it for you if it wasn't raining.

    http://www.kamikazetoysandhobbies.co...ucts.php?cat=7
    REVO LRP .30x

  38. #438
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    those pipes looks as if they're THS's replica !!

  39. #439
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    Quote Originally Posted by Desert JATO
    those pipes looks as if they're THS's replica !!
    I agree, they do look similar, I have the THS chrome pipe as well. But if you put them side by side then you notice the difference in diameter of the header, stinger size and quality. Performance wise the Ofna/Jammin pipes are the best I have ever run hands down and I have run 3 so far and the have the 086 on the way for my IGT2.
    REVO LRP .30x

  40. #440
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    Desert JATO,

    Here is the header...http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFBA0&P=7

    Like I said, not the best, but works OK. See the above pic of the RS4 and my 2607 header.

    The .21TM can really use a larger header, and run it with the stock pipe drilled out. Save the cash....neither the THS nor the Buku performed worth the extra cash and I tested both with my Bushnell Velocity on many radar runs. Slightly more tork which you don't need anyway and little or no top end improvement.

    Here are the two engines.....They are the same except the header which you can't use anyway and the throttle/carb arm. The T-max version has the ball end like the jato and the Revo version does not, just a stright arm.

    If you can get the revo version cheaper, go with it, and just buy the throttle arm, or better yet, pull it off the 3.3.

    The rest is step by step and straight forward like in the thread. Good luck bro, and post up if you get stuck.





    Also, if you run the slipper properly..slightly more loose than with your 3.3. You should not have any tranny problems at all. I didn't and my engine was modded by AB Mods making almost .4HP more than a modded 3.3 and enough tork to throw my revo around.
    REVO LRP .30x

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