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  1. #241
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    Yea i race every other week at the Antique Barn. it is a concrete oval, i really like running there and the group of racers are some good guys. we have not raced the last two times with the weather.

    Thunder Ally is on Hwy 42 and they are having a big dirt race this weekend. they race on the weekends the barn is not. i have not run much dirt oval but i build another jato just to run dirt races.

    you should come out. racing this weekend starts at 2:00 and the barn starts at 12:00. wtih the foams and the 2.5 motor you would be legal to run sportsman. with the .21 you are legal for outlaw.

    Need for Speed, yes the 5X10 will need to be drilled out a little and then press the bearings in.

  2. #242
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    I know I am not the first to try this, but just a tip for anyone still running Conda's or any other on road tire. Instead of trashing them, treat them with a couple coats of foam tire compound. I got the best running today ever outa those tires. Unlike the foams it dries pretty fast, so you can retreat and get back out for another half tank or so. Accelerated almost as good as the foams, but mid-top end was crazy.

    BTW, got the low end wheelies under control, no wheelie bar. Anyone have any tips for solving high speed wheelies? The Revo gears are giving me serious problems at high speeds when the engine is winding out, guess that's why Traxxas went with different pitch gears for the Jato. Top speed runs are impossible without weighting down the front, and that doesn't help much. Once I solve this last issue, I can see just how fast the modded .21TM is.
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  3. #243
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    Anyone have any tips for solving high speed wheelies?
    Nope....but I am having the same problem. I probably made 30 passes last night and nearly every one resulted in the front end coming up around 3/4 throttle in 2nd. I only cartwheeled it once though
    I have been running 20/38 Revo gears lately.

  4. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony S.
    Nope....but I am having the same problem. I probably made 30 passes last night and nearly every one resulted in the front end coming up around 3/4 throttle in 2nd. I only cartwheeled it once though
    I have been running 20/38 Revo gears lately.
    Have you lowered it as much as possible that might help
    Last edited by MRB1GG; 04-21-2008 at 04:00 PM.
    drive it like you stole it !!!!!

  5. #245
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    im with mr b1gg.....(hehe)...mines lowered to the ground and i have no probs with wheelies ....
    my cars page..yourspace.com/revo_n_jato

  6. #246
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Here is how to lower your jato if you are wondering.
    No more money for rc trucks I got 1:1 truck

  7. #247
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    Mine is only as low as the spring adjusters and shock positions will get it. I will try lowering it some more and see if it helps.
    OS .21 Jato
    3.3 Revo
    Rustler VXL 3s 8000 Lipo

  8. #248
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    You will have to see it to understand. The wheelies I am getting are not normal wheelies, they are very high speed power wheelies at 12:00 that could do major damage or even total the truck if it hits anything at all.... already ripped the wing right off.

    Look at my pics on the prior page. Any lower on the front and mine will scrape the ground. Could drop a tad more on the back, but I tried to create more downward force on the front by having the rear slightly higher, still takes off like a jet. LOL. I have nothing to lose, so I will lower the back more.

    Right now, everything is pointing to the 1.0 pitch Revo gears causing the problem, they are just to small for the power band, that's probably why Traxxas changed to different pitch gears for the Jato, but I will know soon enough. Just finished making a couple larger .08 Jato CB's to get my gear ratio down a little more and ditch the Revo gears.
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  9. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by JA_ecoli_TO
    im with mr b1gg.....(hehe)...mines lowered to the ground and i have no probs with wheelies ....
    You are probably driving a stock Jato, not nearly the power of the .21TM and definatly not an AB modded TM. You won't have a wheelie problem or a problem with the Revo gears.
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  10. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony S.
    Nope....but I am having the same problem. I probably made 30 passes last night and nearly every one resulted in the front end coming up around 3/4 throttle in 2nd. I only cartwheeled it once though
    I have been running 20/38 Revo gears lately.
    Tony S. I tried 19/40, 19/38, and 19/36 and get the same problem. I would like to use 19/36, that ratio works well for me and is very quick on the low end and mad up high, but it won't top out due to the big wheelies.

    I always thought gear ratio was gear ratio no matter how it comes and the lower the better for top end. My test runs proves that to be simply not true so far. I tried 1.44:1 ratio and it was fast, but a very slow starter and the engine bogue down trying to rev up, but I know it can handle the ratio, just not with 1.0 pitch, it has a different impact on the engine/RPM. I think the trick is to get your ratio down as low as possible with .08 pitch gears. I will keep you posted.
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  11. #251
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    i no wut u mean. my stock and modded 3.3 pulled wheelies (12 o'clock) in 2nd. if the tune is right that front is comin up!!!! i remember a while back some guys in miami had ninja .21's on their jato's and had small wieghts on the front of the truk to help keep it down along w/the other traditional mods
    Keep spendin $$ and ur still in the way!!

  12. #252
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    The wheelies I am getting are not normal wheelies, they are very high speed power wheelies at 12:00 that could do major damage or even total the truck if it hits anything at all
    This is the same issue I am having. I think you are onto something with the gear pitch.
    I was thinking it also may be the engine RPM/powerband is outrunning the aerodynamics at some point and the truck takes off.
    OS .21 Jato
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    Rustler VXL 3s 8000 Lipo

  13. #253
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    Did you ever think of using a extended chassis. A longer chassis will add more front end weight by extending the wheel to wheel length. New era makes one! It may not completely fix your problem, but it will def help. They do the same thing in drag racing, and hill climbing.
    Race it, Break it, Fix it, REPEAT!!! Jato 3.3

  14. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by jusleanit
    i remember a while back some guys in miami had ninja .21's on their jato's and had small wieghts on the front of the truk to help keep it down
    Added 3 ounces to the front today, made a huge difference along with the taller gearing, only made a couple passes though...got home late.

    I know, those dudes still running ninja 21's and 35plus21 engines in their Jato. They all use the Jato .08 gears for the same reason I switched. Thanks
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  15. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony S.
    This is the same issue I am having. I think you are onto something with the gear pitch.
    I was thinking it also may be the engine RPM/powerband is outrunning the aerodynamics at some point and the truck takes off.
    Lowered in the rear, handles a little more finicky than before. Lowered the front and it catches every rock or small pebble.

    After the combination of lowering a little more, gearing up with the Jato gears and adding the 3 ounces to the front. It seems like it will stay planted now. Need to make more passes before I sign off on it completely, but definatley a huge improvement so far.
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  16. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by JATOJUNKY3.325
    Did you ever think of using a extended chassis. A longer chassis will add more front end weight by extending the wheel to wheel length. New era makes one! It may not completely fix your problem, but it will def help. They do the same thing in drag racing, and hill climbing.
    Good idea, but don't wanna take that route. Thanks
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  17. #257
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    I got a os 21 tm coming in and i'm wondering what would be the best gear ratio to run. I have a 20/38 would that work pretty good???

    and i was also wondering it jato maddness with the metal gears is still sellin his gears??

  18. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by redseal8
    I got a os 21 tm coming in and i'm wondering what would be the best gear ratio to run. I have a 20/38 would that work pretty good???

    and i was also wondering it jato maddness with the metal gears is still sellin his gears??
    redseal8, congrats on joining the .21TM club. If you can't find the answers you need in the thread, just post up. The 20/38=1.9 works OK, but I found the 19/36=1.89 runs better for me. May just be my eyes, the ratio is basically the same. The 20/36 may be a little to sluggish on the low end, but play with them all and see what you like. You may be willing to sacrifice a little top end for more low end or visa versa. To me 19/36 gives the best of both.

    Deparathead has a set of new Jatomadness gears for sale. PM him, his name is Kenny G.
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  19. #259
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    BTW, I am playing with some .08 pitch Jato gears that I made that seem to be even better than the Revo gears so far. Almost as low as the 20/36 ratio, but uses the engine RPM much better than the smaller revo gears that seem to bogue down or produce crazy highspeed wheelies. Yesterday I had some great test runs and the gears held up fine, the fastest top speed so far and no high speed wheelies. After a few more tests, it will be time to by that bushnell.
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  20. #260
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    I have been running the 20/38's and having decent luck with them. I am still meaning to give the 19/36 ratio a try but just haven't stuck them in there yet.
    OS .21 Jato
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    Rustler VXL 3s 8000 Lipo

  21. #261
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    Good deal 20/38 is what i was running before I bought the .21. The engine just got here today and i'm waiting on my header now. It should be here tomarrow so i'm going to run it then!! CANT WAIT!!!!

  22. #262
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    I just got my engine in and was reading through the book and noticed they have a diff. break in. Witch one is better for this engine the traxxas or the one they put in the book??

  23. #263
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    I used the heat cycle break in method on mine. Drive it around easy for 3 minutes letting it get up to 200-225 degrees and let it cool completely with the piston at BDC. Repeat 5 times.
    Do it again letting the engine run for 4 minutes or so again letting it get up to temp and completely cool down for another 6-7 times (25 total minutes).
    I heated my engine with a heat gun before starting it for the first 5 or so starts of the break in.
    Worked great!
    OS .21 Jato
    3.3 Revo
    Rustler VXL 3s 8000 Lipo

  24. #264
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    gahh this thread is still going on lol
    Love the smell, look, and feel of a nitro engine

  25. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by jodahak23
    gahh this thread is still going on lol
    Yep.

    Wait till my radar comes in and I post another video. Then I need to post pics and the how to method on making the .08 pitch Jato gears. For those running the Revo gears, these gears are so much faster, fits the Jato better and gives you a much larger gear with a lower ratio, but you will need to have at least a modded 3.3 or better for them to work well.
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  26. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by redseal8
    I just got my engine in and was reading through the book and noticed they have a diff. break in. Witch one is better for this engine the traxxas or the one they put in the book??
    This is the one I use, basically the same as what Tony S. posted.

    ENGINE BREAK-IN LIKE THE PROS

    This was copied from a post by STEPHEN BESS on the "Starting Grid" message board as he tried to help another member get more life and performance out of his OS motor. This break-in method should apply to virtually any ABC hobby nitro engine (except for ringed engines).

    If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

    From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

    You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

    Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power
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  27. #267
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    ok r'nitro...i got out but u and mr bigg keep tryin to pull me back in went out to the local races today and got the onroad itch started again. im thinkin bout snatchin up another jato and 1/8 on road car. ill keep u guys posted. o yea a few of my dudes went to NC a few weeks ago, i cant remember where it was but it was a huge RC event. ring any bells???
    Keep spendin $$ and ur still in the way!!

  28. #268
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    I still have it at factory settings but i can't even get in one tank with out the temps flying up there! I was trying to find the air leak and i think i did so i will give it a try tonight

  29. #269
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    I read over that post a couple of time are you saying to lean it out just a little bit before i start breaking it in? I might have just miss understood it!

  30. #270
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    wheres the cheapest place to get a .21? cheapest i found was 193.00.. anywhere else cheaper
    Nitro Stampede R*I*P
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  31. #271
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    thats pretty cheap! that is the lowest i have heard of one!

  32. #272
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    When doing to heat cycle do you ever mess with the idle or anything. I noticed towards the end of mine it was getting pretty high. I didn't know if i needed to turn it down or not?

  33. #273
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    thats on .. i cant say where but a very popular site
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  34. #274
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    lol!! OH come on!

  35. #275
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    redseal8, glad you got your problem solved man. Get that baby broken in, and yes adjust the idle if you need two. I leaned only my HS out and left the LS alone, and whatever you do, don't touch that third needle.

    Agitator is just being an Agitator LOL. If he found it for $193, he would tell us where he got it. I paid $202 and told everybody.

    Here is one for $220, just $27 bucks more with less Agrivation...I mean Agitation.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-O-S-Max-21TM...QQcmdZViewItem
    G4/V15
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  36. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by jusleanit
    ok r'nitro...i got out but u and mr bigg keep tryin to pull me back in went out to the local races today and got the onroad itch started again. im thinkin bout snatchin up another jato and 1/8 on road car. ill keep u guys posted. o yea a few of my dudes went to NC a few weeks ago, i cant remember where it was but it was a huge RC event. ring any bells???
    Do it man, this forum needs you dude. Most these guys don't know about all the off the hook things you done in the other forum. I was inspired by your O.S. 28XZ thread. Just the fact that you would even consider that beast earned my respect.
    G4/V15
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  37. #277
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    Agitator is just being an Agitator LOL. If he found it for $193, he would tell us where he got it. I paid $202 and told everybody.

    Here is one for $220, just $27 bucks more with less Agrivation...I mean Agitation.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-O-S-Max-21TM...QQcmdZViewItem[/QUOTE]
    lol well i can say its not ebay.. i dont know how many the website has so i dont want to blow my chance, i keep puting it off but dang it i want it!!!!!
    Nitro Stampede R*I*P
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  38. #278
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    get one man! They are awesome!!!!!! although I ran into some problems today!! nothing to do with the engine just the driver and stupied!!!lol

  39. #279
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    only thing im afraid of is messin it up.. my 3.3 isnt even 6 months old with less then a gallon gone through and its on itslast leg i think.. id hate to waste 200 on a motor that id mess up but i love this hobby
    Nitro Stampede R*I*P
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  40. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by revonitro
    Do it man, this forum needs you dude. Most these guys don't know about all the off the hook things you done in the other forum. I was inspired by your O.S. 28XZ thread. Just the fact that you would even consider that beast earned my respect.
    thanx my dude!! i got a truggy kit(for the .28) like 2wks ago and havent started on the build yet, plus im hiding it from wifey. ill make the other purchase in the next 30-90 days 4sure
    Keep spendin $$ and ur still in the way!!

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