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  1. #1
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    3.3 diff swap "how to" With photos

    The Following parts you will need in order to do this swap
    *#4628 X2
    *#5119
    *#4824A OR 4824 The A is for Grey version "Explain later on in the build."
    *#4881 & 2382
    Tool you will need are
    *Flat head screw driver.
    *Phillips head screw driver.
    *Pilers

    First off heres a photo of the 3.3 Diff part # 4881&2382


    First you are going to undo the screws on the bottom 4 total in front
    Take off the bumper and then take off the two screws on the shocks off from the top on the Diff housing

    Then you want to unscrew the Steering block on one side and the four screws on top. i only unscrewed one side so when the belt was loose i could move it around instead of taking it all apart.


    Then you want to remove the two screws holding down the Diff housing.
    You are going to see the old setup. u might be able to wiggle it out like i did. but you are not going to be able to put the new one in yet. you will need to Take the Rear apart to get some slack to get it around the belt. but before we do that you will need to know you won't be using the steel yokes anymore you might want to take the time to use part#4628 and convert the steel one to the white plastic yokes. use the tools traxxas has gave to you for removal you will also need to to install to the plastic type.

    Alright lets take the Rear apart.
    You have a total of 14-15 screws to remove the bottom 5 and the shock tower in back has 4. and you will need to remove the shocks aswell 2 screws and then the 3 on the side rear plates then the 2 on top near the front make sure you take the pinion and motor out.



    When you pull it apart it should be like this

    this is where part 4824A or just 4824 comes in handy. the Bearing holder plastic isn't big enough on the E-tec because you are using a 5x10 bearing so you need the bearing holder the rest is useless really.
    You pop the old one "not pictured with a screw driver and place the new one in

    then you set all the belts back up and the shaft put the 3.3 diff in and put the 3.3 diff in the front. BELT over front diff before shaft same for the rear. screw Replace the screws where they go and Walla you have a 3.3 nitro Diff swap.

    *** im am waiting on my 4824 part. Grey is for the 3.3 and black is the 2.5/.15 it don't matter what one you get. u are just using the bearing holder the rest is usless throw it away or sell it in MP


    Mods please make sticky!

  2. #2
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    very nice. i'm wondering why didn't you use these output yokes(vxl ones?) or did i just miss that.
    I need a new signature...

  3. #3
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    do you need two 5119 or just one pack of two for the rear?
    E-Revo:Stock
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by MambaRustler
    do you need two 5119 or just one pack of two for the rear?
    It was late i forgot to add you will need four bearings. 2 for the front and two for the rear.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by cones
    very nice. i'm wondering why didn't you use these output yokes(vxl ones?) or did i just miss that.
    They didn't have any vxl ones in stock and plus im not brushless yet.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. razer's Avatar
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    You should also be able to use the steel 4628X yokes instead of the white 4628 yokes if you want.
    There is no chicken knife. Eat steak.

  7. #7
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    are the 5119 bearing a direct fit for the front or do i need anything else to put the nitro tec front bearings in the diff

    ??? anybody please am ordering the parts now and dont know if i need anything else
    Last edited by cooleocool; 11-28-2007 at 06:50 PM. Reason: merge
    E-Revo:Stock
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  8. #8
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    i would assume so since they are in his parts list.
    I need a new signature...

  9. #9
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    i mean for the front do you need anything to put the 10x15 bearing in the front

    forget it guys i answered my questions i compared the n-tec and e-tec diff housing exploeded views. there a direct fit

    oops one thing i forgot can i use lithium grease inside the diffs instead of silicon grease?
    Last edited by cooleocool; 11-28-2007 at 06:50 PM. Reason: merge
    E-Revo:Stock
    Slash 4X4 PE:MM/Medusa 3300KV

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MambaRustler
    are the 5119 bearing a direct fit for the front or do i need anything else to put the nitro tec front bearings in the diff
    Bearing are a direct fit.

  11. #11
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    ok guys I got my tec torn down for this conversion and I now have a question. when shortening the front axles are you guys trimming the female side or the male side? it seems to me that the female side has to be shortened. heh, I still have to order the nitro side plates as well, I thought I had everything I needed.

  12. #12
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    Travis th e-tec ones should be short enough mine where but if not cut the ones coming off the stub axles in inners.... and for the rear side plates you are just using the bearing casing. good luck

    Edit: since you can't edit the post on top.. you might need to use boiling water to get the belts to expand alitle. i did and its got the right gap it was a tad tight. but might not just a warning....
    Last edited by cooleocool; 12-02-2007 at 06:37 AM. Reason: merge

  13. #13
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    Ok but is there any modding and do you think an 11 year old could do it with no help? No dremeling or anything rite?
    Also Would I need 3.3 diffs for a team orion pro bb motor?
    Agree with slowenufs sig wheres the new 4 tec?

  14. #14
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    Um... you don't have to get different bearings or cam adjusters. The stock ones work fine.

    Also, you should need to shim the diff a little with fiber washers as the nitro diff is a bit narrower.

    There are also a few spots you need to trim plastic away so the yokes don't rub.

    My old website with the conversion is still up as another reference:

    http://www.geocities.com/the_tec_all...ffupgrade.html
    All side view mirrors should say "Objects in mirror are LOSING!"

  15. #15
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    The nitro diff swap worked great! And it was soooooo easy to do. The only bad thing is that the drive belts are a little tight. But hey, you WILL need it when you upgrade to VXL like I did. Pics coming soon!

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by cones
    very nice. i'm wondering why didn't you use these output yokes(vxl ones?) or did i just miss that.
    can you use these instead of the other ones,if so how much better are these,
    and are these the VXL ones
    If I broke it once,I can break it again

  17. #17
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    no those aren't but these are the vxl ones the only difference i think is that ones are metal and the other are plastic and the plastic ones are easier to use.
    I need a new signature...

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by cones
    no those aren't but these are the vxl ones the only difference i think is that ones are metal and the other are plastic and the plastic ones are easier to use.

    which ones are better,as use and installation(for my future vxl)

    what are the plantery gears for,i believe thats what it is.
    you have to build the diff?

    and can you just buy the pre built ones?like on ebay
    Last edited by 4tecowner; 03-17-2008 at 06:00 PM.
    If I broke it once,I can break it again

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by cones
    very nice. i'm wondering why didn't you use these output yokes(vxl ones?) or did i just miss that.
    I made the mistake of ordering to quickly from tower . The output yokes Cones mentioned in his first post (4928x) are for some other vehicle and will NOT work with the diff swap.
    Last edited by slowenuff; 03-24-2008 at 11:50 PM.

  20. #20
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    So I had one output yoke from my rusty. I found that I had to shave off 2 mm from both sides of the half shafts. Maybe there is a slight difference in measurements in the parts.

  21. #21
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    Hey guys, I just got an used electric 4 tec from my cousin. He topld me it worked fine but the rear drive belt was loose. I picked up a new belt and put it in....but its still loose. Is there anyway to adjust the tension on the rear belt??
    Revo 3.3, BL Evader ST,coming soon BL E-Revo

  22. #22
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    If you take apart the rear where the diff is, youll see spacers on both sides as well as notches. Turn the spacers back a few notches till you get the desired tension.

  23. #23
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    thanks man...i will check that out
    Revo 3.3, BL Evader ST,coming soon BL E-Revo

  24. #24
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    you tighten the diff with a allen wrench,a small one.the is 2 small holes in the diff to put the wrench in and turn it until its tight
    If I broke it once,I can break it again

  25. #25
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    does anyone know if the velineon system will fit the 4-tec?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCballer
    does anyone know if the velineon system will fit the 4-tec?
    It will. Several members here have installed those systems in their 4-Tecs. Do a search for Velineon, and you should come up with some results.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  27. #27
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    couldn't I drill a hole in the stock bearing holders??

  28. #28
    Traxxas Marshal cooleocool's Avatar
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    You would probably weaken them and also have a hard time drilling the hole out perfectly.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by adidas22206
    couldn't I drill a hole in the stock bearing holders??
    its not worth it to do it that way i broke mine doing that
    If I broke it once,I can break it again

  30. #30
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    I performed a diff swap about 5 years ago! So far it's holding up.
    Current labor of love.
    Traxxas Summit 1/16 VXL

  31. #31
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    So all and all this cost 50 bucks to do. Then there is no adjustments to do correct. It is just drive it this way And it can handle all the power in the world.
    rc8 e
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  32. #32
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    does anybody know how to replace the stock stamped output yokes to the white ones

    the stock ones are bored out and wont stay on any more

  33. #33
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    GREAT thread!!! thanks to all who added to this thread have my parts coming in for this swap and I can't wait to get it installed.

  34. #34
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    ok i have a question on diff swap. i have all my parts on the way and i was thinking about this parts,Gray Rear Side Plates 4824A, if this part is for the nitro how will the electric motor fit? i know it will probaly bolt to the lower chassis but from what i can see on the drawings its not going to bolt to the upper chassis. it looks like i will have to dremmel out one side for the motor.

  35. #35
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    Hey with the diff swap does a pro ball diff upgrade fit and should i use the stock plastic yokes or go with the steel ones i may got brushless with it.

  36. #36
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    Hope to have my 3.3 diff swap done very soon, going to do some speeds runs and see how fast I can go?
    HPI BAJA 5T->
    E-Flite 400 3D->
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    VXL Blitz

  37. #37
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    Are the 3.3 Diffs Larger in circumference than the stock diffs???
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  38. #38
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    yes they are.

  39. #39
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    Should I swap the pullys since the diffs are a different size?
    No brakes.....? Huh, I did'nt even notice.

  40. #40
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    Any way to get the pics added back im more of a picture guy than instruction guy.

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