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  1. #1
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    Exclamation TQ Modification, Charging made easy ( Lots of Pics)

    Alright for all of you guys out there still using disposable batteries or taking the batteries out of your remote to charge them pay attention. Sorry if this has been posted before.

    step 1. Go to your LHS and pick up a charger for a remote and the small jack to go along with it. (And 8 rechargable aa's if you don't have them) The jack should look like this:



    Now remove the battery cover, batteries and crystal then unscrew the back cover of your remote.





    Slide the computer board and battery tray upwards out of the slot that it rides in, remove the two screws holding it to the battery tray and flip it over.



    Take 2 pieces of wire about 6 inches long and solder them onto the charge jack you bought. I used white and black wire. The white goes onto the top and the black goes onto the side.



    This next picture shows exactly where to solder the other ends of the wire. The white is soldered onto the second solder joint in from the left side and the black is soldered onto the fourth joint. Be very careful when doing this not to accidentally join two solder joints on the board that are not meant to be joined.



    Here is what the wires should look like soldered on



    Put the batteries into your remote and plug the charger into the jack and see if the light comes on on your charger if it has one. If the light does not come on your charger is not standard polarity. If this happens switch the position of the two wires soldered onto your charging jack.



    Remove the batteries. Drill a 5/16 hole in the case of the transmitter 1.5-2 mm to the right of the antenna



    Get out your superglue and if you have it an accelerator helps alot

    trx: t-maxx/jato/epede
    losi: microT = massive fun

  2. #2
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    Replace the two screws that hold the board to the battery tray and then slide the assembly back into its slot.



    Position the charge jack over the hole that you drilled and glue it in place. If you are having trouble holding it plug the charger into it from the other side and it will hold it in place for you.



    Replace the back cover of the remote, batteries and crystal. Notice when you flip it over that the small cover over the switch has probably fallen off and can now be replaced too.





    Now you can quickly and easily plug your traxxas remote in for easy charging

    trx: t-maxx/jato/epede
    losi: microT = massive fun

  3. #3
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    Thanks ,I think I have to do that mod now.
    Tmaxx 2.5 now with 3.3 motor and trans,FLM Chassis, TI22 wheels,fantom pipe,big bore shocks,MIP cvds,OFNA wing mount and wing,and ballistic 2500 mAh pack.

  4. #4
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    *Clap Clap* Good job man, great tutorial.

    Good pics, lots of info, step by step.

    you get kudos. lol

    again, good job man.
    well... this is indeed a signature...

    *cough*

  5. #5
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    Haha thanks guys I didn't know what to expect. I was half thinking everyone would say we knew about that for a long time now where have you been? but I have actually had my maxx controller done up like that for about 3 years now I didn't take pics when I did it originally. Those pics are of my new Jato's remote but it doesn't really matter because they are essentially the same piece of gear.

    Edit: in case anyone is wondering why the sermos connectors in the charger it is so i can flip them backwards and reverse the polarity for the JR remote I use in my pede.
    trx: t-maxx/jato/epede
    losi: microT = massive fun

  6. #6
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    Awesome idea, this thread should be sticky worthy, this is something everyone on these boards can do.
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  7. #7
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    I think that the tutorial was a great one, but I do not think Traxxas would even consider making this a sticky, as I do not think most companies encourage the modification of their products without authorization.
    I hate E-Clips

  8. #8
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    Awsome tutorial, great job. I have been meaning to do somthing like this to my transmitter, I just never knew exactly how to do it, step by step. Planning on doing it tomarrow, great rainy day project
    My Reality Check bounced...

  9. #9
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    This is an awesome mod and I am thinking about doing it myself. However, once you replace the 8 disposable batteries by 8 rechargeables, you actually reduce the voltage to 9.6 Volts:

    8 x 1.5 = 12 Volts
    8 x 1.2 = 9.6 Volts

    I am just wondering if that has any effect on the performance (i.e. distance) of the transmitter.

  10. #10
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    I wouldn't know because I have never run disposable batteries. I have never had any side effects of not having higher voltage though. My maxx operates far enough away from me that it is hard to tell whether it is coming or going and my failsafe rarely cuts in and only does when other rc's are around.
    trx: t-maxx/jato/epede
    losi: microT = massive fun

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. arceeguy's Avatar
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    Because this applies to many different Traxxas RC's that have a TQ radio, I moved it to Traxxas Alley.

    Thanks for the tips!
    Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

  12. #12
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    Sounds like it's OK then. In case of the receiver, the 1.2 Volt between a hump pack and 4 single cells really makes a difference. But then again, the receiver batteries also power the servos.

  13. #13
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    Alkalines may provide 1.5 volts AT FIRST. But after only a little while, their voltage output will drop at a steady rate, to 1.2 volts or even less. But NiMH batteries tend to keep their voltage, so you get 1.2 volts for most of the time on one charge. The radio's were meant to run at 9.8 volts, with the ability to go even higher, to 12 volts.
    I hate E-Clips

  14. #14
    Traxxas Marshal cooleocool's Avatar
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    You did a good job on that! Nice how to as well.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  15. #15
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    what kind of bateries do u use and how often do you recharge themm..this would pay for itself if used one 1 or 2 times

  16. #16
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    good job man....good pics and nice step by step......keep up the modding
    T-maxx-$450.00
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcdriftdude
    what kind of bateries do u use and how often do you recharge themm..this would pay for itself if used one 1 or 2 times

    From the pics they look like Sanyo NIcd...not sure of rating. For the cost just charge them up when you do the reciever pack. Transmitter doesn't go through them as quick.

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeeve
    This is an awesome mod and I am thinking about doing it myself. However, once you replace the 8 disposable batteries by 8 rechargeables, you actually reduce the voltage to 9.6 Volts:

    8 x 1.5 = 12 Volts
    8 x 1.2 = 9.6 Volts

    I am just wondering if that has any effect on the performance (i.e. distance) of the transmitter.
    One thing I want to point out first is something called voltage drop while under load. Yes, they will perform fine within reason, but once they start getting low on power the voltage will drop and the red light will start flashing on your TQ telling you to recharge.
    I recommend when you do this mod use NIMH aa batteries with as high mah rating as you can find. This will help a great deal. Look in your camera sections of Wal Mart.
    I found at buy.com a 20 pack of AA NIMH rechargeables with 2500mah for $28.55

    Really nice job on the How to F7GRT, it's a keeper for certain.
    Last edited by Nitronaught; 08-23-2006 at 09:42 AM.
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  19. #19
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    I second with what nitronaught said becouse i tried mi-mh radioshack batteries that only had 1100 mah and it didnt last me but a couple runs.

    But good job with the Mod to the TQ.. Bravo Bravo.
    No one ever really dies.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught
    One thing I want to point out first is something called voltage drop while under load. Yes, they will perform fine within reason, but once they start getting low on power the voltage will drop and the red light will start flashing on your TQ telling you to recharge.
    I recommend when you do this mod use NIMH aa batteries with as high mah rating as you can find. This will help a great deal. Look in your camera sections of Wal Mart.
    I found at buy.com a 20 pack of AA NIMH rechargeables with 2500mah for $28.55

    Really nice job on the How to F7GRT, it's a keeper for certain.
    The batteries I use aren't too expensive and they are worth it. When fully charged these nicads will last me an entire day of running as long as I shut my remote off between runs and don't leave it on longer than it has to.
    http://www.greathobbies.com/products...rod_id=SAN070N
    If you want to be able to run longer than all day between runs than you can step it up
    http://www.greathobbies.com/products...rod_id=SAN110N

    And the life of these cells is great. The ones in my maxx controller and reciever pack are over 4 years old and still hold a charge all day no problem.
    trx: t-maxx/jato/epede
    losi: microT = massive fun

  21. #21
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    Wow that was great. I have a futaba radios that have built in chargers already
    Getting back into the hobby

  22. #22
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    Can anyone let me know what kind and where to get the charge jack? I found a dual charger (works for receiver and this application) but cant find a jack.

    Thanks!

  23. #23
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    trx: t-maxx/jato/epede
    losi: microT = massive fun

  24. #24
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    That is awesome!! Great How to's!
    Stampede XL1 turned VXL and Rustler XL-5

  25. #25
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    What rating transmitter charger do I need? 12v & 2500 mAh?
    Jato 3.3 - fast enough

  26. #26
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    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...6&I=LXATH3&P=K

    Will this one work or is there something cheaper that will charge 12v? Looks like it would charge our receiver packs too!

    It says 1100 mAh transmitter, does that mean I couldn't charge 2500mAh batteries with it? I'm kind of new at this stuff so any help is most appreciated.
    Jato 3.3 - fast enough

  27. #27
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    Anyone available for help?
    Jato 3.3 - fast enough

  28. #28
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    Sorry FastGT94 I assumed this thread would have died by now and I wasn't checking up on the alley lately. But I got your pm and you have a new pm from me now and yes that charger should work.
    trx: t-maxx/jato/epede
    losi: microT = massive fun

  29. #29
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    Smile

    looks like i gotta get busy...get this mod done on my tq3....for my maxx twins
    MAXX STANG!!! King of the street!!

  30. #30
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    Nice Mod. But why go through the trouble of soldering to the circuit board and pulling everything apart? Couldn't you just run a wire to the + and - terminal in the battery compartment and then to a jack? Then you could charge your Nimh's a lot quicker(at a full 2 or 2.5 amps) without having to worry about putting too much amperage into the circuit board of the controller.

  31. #31
    RC Champion batjerk's Avatar
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    Hmm, I think moving this to the Alley was a good idea... Thanks for the info.

    Incidentally, I think it's sticky-worthy as well.
    It didn't have enough power... so, I rewired it!

  32. #32
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    Hmmm, nice, good job! This will definitely help me save some $$$ on disposables.
    Where's the 1/8 Revo?

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by necron
    Nice Mod. But why go through the trouble of soldering to the circuit board and pulling everything apart? Couldn't you just run a wire to the + and - terminal in the battery compartment and then to a jack? Then you could charge your Nimh's a lot quicker(at a full 2 or 2.5 amps) without having to worry about putting too much amperage into the circuit board of the controller.

    Anyone have any input?
    T-Maxx 2.5 - 2.5R upgrade, RPM A-arms, MIP CVD's (rear only), TRX Big Bore shocks

    E-Stampede - Super Rooster ESC, Stinger 12T motor, Hitec 645 steering servo

  34. #34
    RC Champion batjerk's Avatar
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    I wouldn't charge them at that rate anyway. But, to each their own. You could do it that way, but this is quicker in the long run. It may be more work up front, but you don't have to open the battery compartment everytime and attach wires to the terminals. Besides, if you are putting too much current through the circuit the way shown, you'd be doing the same thing with your proposed method. He's basically doing the same thing, but with solder. Besides, the jack is nice and it looks cleaner.
    It didn't have enough power... so, I rewired it!

  35. #35
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    I'm gonna give it a shot eventually
    T-Maxx 2.5 - 2.5R upgrade, RPM A-arms, MIP CVD's (rear only), TRX Big Bore shocks

    E-Stampede - Super Rooster ESC, Stinger 12T motor, Hitec 645 steering servo

  36. #36
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    Thanks for stickying this batjerk.
    trx: t-maxx/jato/epede
    losi: microT = massive fun

  37. #37
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    What voltage do the batteries have to be? 1.2 or 1.5?
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  38. #38
    RC Champion batjerk's Avatar
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    Rechargeable batteries are 1.2v.
    It didn't have enough power... so, I rewired it!

  39. #39
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    COOL...nice
    Vroom Vromm...that sounds like my truck...lol idk

  40. #40
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    why dont these people figure this out?? sheesh...it'd be easier to add this to the remote....
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