Need help with new 3.3...

[danman421]

Well my CVDs still havent come in yet so I was piddling with my Jato last night and stripped out the tuning needle where it goes into the carb... Fortunately I had my 2.5 there and took both carbs off, whipped out the calipers and made some measurements and determined they are the same, so I replaced it. Problem solved. When I try and fire it up, it does not start except maybe for a second and with my old 2.5, I would cover the stinger and hear it starting, uncover and booms it purring, with this one when I cover it up to prime it, it just locks up (I think its flooded). Any suggestions on what I can do to get this thing running?

One more question, when you remove the tunning needle assembly (needle and brass fitting), there are holes in the brass part, do one of these holes need to line up with the hole in the black nipple for the fuel that goes around it? Thanks for your help.

I have posted a couple pictures of the area I refer to and a couple pictures of my Jato assembled and beautiful, ready to rock!





Body off:





New Body on (one roll over, so a couple scratches:

[cholyoake]

I would cover the stinger and hear it starting, uncover and booms it purring, with this one when I cover it up to prime it, it just locks up (I think its flooded). Any suggestions on what I can do to get this thing running?

the 3.3's come very tight from the factory, so they can be hard to start. if its flooded do the procedure to un flood the engine (take off the glow plug, turn the car upside down and spin the engine with the ez-start). then you could try heating the engine with a hair dryer which makes it even easire to start.

One more question, when you remove the tunning needle assembly (needle and brass fitting), there are holes in the brass part, do one of these holes need to line up with the hole in the black nipple for the fuel that goes around it? Thanks for your help.

no they dont need to line up. there is a thing in the black bit (i dont know how to descirbe it) that lets the fuel flow all around it, so even if the holes dont line up the engine can still get fuel.

[danman421]

the 3.3's come very tight from the factory, so they can be hard to start. if its flooded do the procedure to un flood the engine (take off the glow plug, turn the car upside down and spin the engine with the ez-start). then you could try heating the engine with a hair dryer which makes it even easire to start.

Yes, I noticed it was very tight to begin with but I got it to spin. I am using Traxxas 33% so I do not know why it wont start but it just spins and spins, then when I put my finger over the stinger I hear it trying to start and then I uncover with no luck, then it locks up. I also noticed what when its locked up, the ez start "motor" light does not come on but the "glow plug" light is on (like it should be). Thanks for your help so far though.

On a side note, is it bad to get the fuel on your skin? Or anything else? If it gets on something, should I worry about cleaning it throughly? I noticed it evaporates pretty quickly anyways but I cant imagine it would be good for your skin.

[icepick832]

just wash your hands before doing anything else. and it strips varnish super fast!

Are you at factory settings when trying to get it going? 4 turns out on HSN, flush with inner ring on LSN, and 1mm gap in the carb.

[danman421]

Are you at factory settings when trying to get it going? 4 turns out on HSN, flush with inner ring on LSN, and 1mm gap in the carb.

Yes, I kept the HSN the same when I replaced it, did not touch the LSN. But I do not know what you mean by 1mm gap in the carb?

[icepick832]

remove the filter and neck and look into the carb, there should be a 1mm gap from closed(about the width of a credit card)

[danman421]

remove the filter and neck and look into the carb, there should be a 1mm gap from closed(about the width of a credit card)

Ok, yes there is about 1mm. Isnt this set by the factory as well? But for the record, a credit card is .75mm...

[icepick832]

hence about and yes , it is usually set to those settings from factory for break in, but depending on elevation you may need to tweak just a bit.

[danman421]

hence about and yes , it is usually set to those settings from factory for break in, but depending on elevation you may need to tweak just a bit.

I know, thanks for the help though. Do you race in Charlotte, im from Greensboro and went to NC State so I know the area. What about Greensboro, are there any tracks there?

[icepick832]

I dont race, I just bash mine. Not sure bout tracks in the area, I always hear about the farm, but they dont have open track.

[cholyoake]

if you're running 33% fuel, you should not leave it at factory settings. it needs to be much richer when using 33%. the jato manual says that the engine should be richened by 3/4 of a turn when using 33%.

[arceeguy]

I would stop trying to prime the engine with your finger and just let it draw fuel on its own. The EZ Start light is going out because the engine is hydrolocked and the over-current protection circuit has tripped to protect the motor from burning up.

Definitely clear the engine out by cranking it with no plug, and pre-heat the engine with a hair dryer for a few minutes to get it nice and hot. When you crank the engine, it will draw fuel into the carb on its own and fire when fuel enters the carb. When you plug the exhaust, the fuel delivery is almost instant and it is flooding the engine before it gets a chance to fire. If I prime an engine in this manner, I will release my finger the moment the fuel reaches the carb. If you wait until you hear the engine fire a little, it is too late as the fresh engine and larger displacement is pushing the fuel in a lot faster than your old 2.5

[danman421]

I would stop trying to prime the engine with your finger and just let it draw fuel on its own. The EZ Start light is going out because the engine is hydrolocked and the over-current protection circuit has tripped to protect the motor from burning up.

Definitely clear the engine out by cranking it with no plug, and pre-heat the engine with a hair dryer for a few minutes to get it nice and hot. When you crank the engine, it will draw fuel into the carb on its own and fire when fuel enters the carb. When you plug the exhaust, the fuel delivery is almost instant and it is flooding the engine before it gets a chance to fire. If I prime an engine in this manner, I will release my finger the moment the fuel reaches the carb. If you wait until you hear the engine fire a little, it is too late as the fresh engine and larger displacement is pushing the fuel in a lot faster than your old 2.5

Thanks for the info, I should have updated but I got it running good last night and did the break in except I ran out of battery for the 5th tank

Will this hurt the engine? The 3.3 is nasty fast and I had a tough time on the 4th tank keeping it straight even since it was a "full throttle" tank. I am sure once I tune it and get it running even better, it will be even faster. Still no wheelies yet and I have Revo springs and foam tires... Maybe because I have a center battery pack and I am not set up to wheelie (don't really want to, maybe cool once or twice)... Thanks again though. I am thinking about selling the Jato and getting a Revo, this thing is just crazy for me, I keep spending crazy money after I break it... Any suggestions?

[NOLA JATO]

it all depends on the inside diameter of the stinger on the pipe and what the weather is like, my 3.3 never get over 230 deg, with the HSN 3and 3/4 of a turn out from closed, the smaller the stinger diameter and the more backperssure your pipe has the less you have to richen the HSN, all engines regardless who makes them come overly rich at the factory settings, there may be a few exceptions, but it's rare.

[danman421]

it all depends on the inside diameter of the stinger on the pipe and what the weather is like, my 3.3 never get over 230 deg, with the HSN 3and 3/4 of a turn out from closed, the smaller the stinger diameter and the more backperssure your pipe has the less you have to richen the HSN, all engines regardless who makes them come overly rich at the factory settings, there may be a few exceptions, but it's rare.

I am curious if I take a couple days break between the 4th and 5th tanks for my break-in, if it will affect the engine's performance/life? Work has just been demanding and it was dark when I finished my 4th tank plus the EZ Start was out of juice!

I do plan on drilling out the stinger and getting the engine dialed in properly. Should I get it tuned then open the stinger or open the stinger then tune?

[icepick832]

Well, you will need to re-tune after doing the stinger mod. So either way will do. If you tune first though, you may have to just do minor adjustments. But it is recommended that anytime you ugrade(modify) that you reset to factory and tune. As far as the break in the break in, you still did the after run procedure and left the piston at BDC right? if so then no worries. Not at BDC may have a stuck motor that will need a heat gun to loosen it to make it easier to start.

[cholyoake]

open the stinger then tune. if you tune it furst,then you will only have to re-tune again when you drill the stinger.

[danman421]

Well, you will need to re-tune after doing the stinger mod. So either way will do. If you tune first though, you may have to just do minor adjustments. But it is recommended that anytime you ugrade(modify) that you reset to factory and tune. As far as the break in the break in, you still did the after run procedure and left the piston at BDC right? if so then no worries. Not at BDC may have a stuck motor that will need a heat gun to loosen it to make it easier to start.

Unfortunately I did not leave it at BDC... As I said before, the wand ran out of juice and I could not turn the flywheel by hand... I can get it unstuck but I am just worried that leaving it without finishing the break-in procedure and leaving it at the top hurt it. Fortunately all the fuel was gone since I ran it till it was dry .

open the stinger then tune. if you tune it furst,then you will only have to re-tune again when you drill the stinger.

Thanks, I hear that "drilling" is not recommended... I should turn a drill bit with a pair of pliers. I think drilling out be easier though.

[n3.3d_for_sp33d]

you might buy a new one or re tap it but you would have to cleen the plastic out.

[danman421]

you might buy a new one or re tap it but you would have to cleen the plastic out.

Its metal...

[NOLA JATO]

i would do the break in then start to do mods after. if you do drill out the stinger , remove the pipe and clean it out thoughly so no metal will be sucked back into the engine.

[NOLA JATO]

try to make it a habbit of after you shut the engine off or when it runs out of fuel to rotate the flywheen sp that the piston is not at tdc even after the break in, this chould prolong engine life and also give you better performance. drill out the stinger after the breakin, during the break in the engine is already at a over rich condition if you remove the pipe and drill out the stinger do it in steps working your way up to 13/64th, thoroughly clean out the pipe before you reinstall it, then tune the engine, it will most likely not leaning out as much with the stinger drilled out, rember to make all tuning adjustments after enough time for the engine to be fully warmed up and at 1/2 tank of fuel, tune the HSN first, if the idle speed is not too high hen after the HSN is set and you do some high speed runs, do the pinch test to check the lsn, pinch the fuel line between 1 to 2 inches from the carb.inlet after 2 or 3 high speed runs and re do the pinch test until there is 3 sec. before the engine dies.after setting the LSN if the idle speed isstill good, recheck the HSN if the LSN was way rich and you had to lean it the HSN may be a little off it's a trial and era process, make small adjustments, try not to over lean the engine, it will cause not only glow plug failure but damage to the piston-sleve. if you have a hand held temp gage make sure you do not exceed 260 deg. but never tune by temps alone, just use the temps. as a guide so that you do not over lean and over heat the engine. read your manuel and also replace the glow plug after the break in, the manuel has more detail than the DVD.