Racing E-Maxx w/ HV-Maxx 6.5

[RC Shocker]

Well I finally finished up the install and programmed my new Novak HV-Maxx 6.5. I got to take it out for a test run today. A very little pavement, a little grass. I've had it for almost 2 weeks. I guess I let it sit just to tease myself.

When I first took my now BL truck out she didnt have any torque at all. I was like "Doh" thought for a second, maybe the slipper isnt tight enough. I was being careful when I put it back together. I had also just installed a new 70t spur gear and replaced and added slipper pegs. I like to run the slipper snug so I tightened it down and the problem was solved. Went with a 14t pinion, just so you know.

I was using my almost new GP3300 6-cell packs and the truck was much more responsive this time. My Mashers were hooking up in spots but also spinning pretty hard at other times. I was in a kinda bumpy grassy area so I'm guessing it was hooking up maybe 80%. The top speed didnt seem ballistic to me but I didnt hold it WOT too long this first run.

I only ran it maybe 15 minutes. It is cool out and the system didnt get very warm at all. I am going to run my IB4200 7-cell packs tomorrow to see if I notice a difference in heat & speed/torque. Gonna try out a 13t pinion (in a few days) to see if I can get it to accelerate harder. Getting better tires too.

It was cool/odd/funny to see my Mashers ballooned up even when sitting still. I imagine they get air inside them somehow spinning so much harder now.

Well my racing and BL journey is just beginning. So far everything went super smooth and very easy. Only problem I had was getting the ESC plugged into the receiver upside down the first try. Figured that out in 2 minutes. I have read some horror stories as of late. Thanks

I will update you guys as soon as I get it dialed in and hooking up. Let me know if you have any questions.

I also appreciate all the help from this forum with my upgrades leading up to this point. Although I still have just a little more to do to get her tightened up the way I'd really like. Does it really ever end ??

Thanks if you read all that.

[ClodMaxx]

Does it really ever end ??

never.

(not if you're into the hobby like i am - i've been eyeing some new tires/wheels today even though there's plenty of tread left on my talons. i finally had to step back and give that one up, even though the new combination would look and perform great )

glad to hear the new hv system is working better for you.

[custmemaxx]

I second the fact that it never ends. IF you are satisfied with your truck you are either very rich or dead! you can always try or upgrade something differant.

[BigMic69]

Thanks if you read all that.

No problem, it was actually quite interesting.

[RC Shocker]

Alright, I'm charging up my 7-cell IB's now so they will be rtr after work today.

Yup guys. I really dont want the upgrading to end. I built my paintball gun (SFT Shocker) like that. Had just about everything I could do to it. It was tastefully done without looking like I went overboard. But is was discouraging when there was nothing left to be done. The gun is still 99% perfect.


But yes, the researching, upgrading, and breaking, to some extent I guess, are other factors that make this hobby so addictive.

Until this evening..........................

[RC Shocker]

So I tried out my 7-cell IB4200's today for the 1st time since I got my new HV-Maxx 6.5 BL. All I can say is WOW!!!!

It's just like the "Big Difference" going from 6-cell to 7-cell with stock Titans, except with crazy BL power. There was a HUGE difference from yesterday w/ 6-cell packs. Power was BAM !!! Right there. Nice Roll On wheelies were very easy today. I had thought about picking up more GP 6-cell packs, but after today NO WAY Buddy...........it's SPC 7-cell packs all the way.

I didnt even get to do a speed run in the road today because the spur gear and slipper pegs just sort of gel'd into a molten mass. I guess it was kinda silly to think that stock could handle the added power. But before it melted it had some brute power.




I am interested to know what kind of upgraded slipper you guys are running. I figured if I went with a steel spur gear I do not have to worry about a plastic one melting again. What are the disadvantage's of a metal spur gear? Something else would break b/c the spur will not now? I am thinking of going this route:


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...p?&I=LXBJC6&P=


I'd only have 2 choices in spur gear size. I'd have to use a 72t I guess. And will it work with an E-Maxx. It should right? It only says T-Maxx in the description I believe. There is also a plastic one like above with double slipper and disc's too.

Any other suggestions to the "slipper situation" would be appreciated.

PS You can load fresh 7-cell packs and go with the HV-Maxx ESC w/o any voltage concerns, unlike the EVX. Also the HiTec-645MG doesnt appear to be glitching like it does with a stock E-Maxx system.
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[RC Shocker]

Anybody? I need to order something very soon.


I am interested to know what kind of upgraded slipper you guys are running. I figured if I went with a steel spur gear I do not have to worry about a plastic one melting again. What are the disadvantage's of a metal spur gear? Something else would break b/c the spur will not now? I am thinking of going this route:


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...p?&I=LXBJC6&P=

[DickyT]

Metal spurs have a tendancy to break trannies. Stick with a plastic spur. If you havey our mesh correct a plastic spur will hold up fine. I'll be making my Maxx BL later this year and plan to go with the strobe slipper kit.

[ClodMaxx]

if you want something you probably will never have to worry about again, i'd go with the strobe setup. you'll have to order the Ofna 51t spur and a mod1 pinion as well, but it's a small price for a bullet-proof setup. plus you'll be covered if you ever decide to go with a more powerful motor than the 6.5 in the future .

i've had the RR slipper and had problems with it (didn't malfunction on it's own, but the clutch plates got bent when my input shaft was bent. silly MIP center pin flew out and caused all kinds of damage). right now i'm running the stock setup with diff balls instead of pegs and it seems to be working... if i run into problems with that, i'm going strobe.

oh yeah - i've only heard to not go with a steel spur. i have no experience with one, as i've heeded that advice.

[clinard79]

I put in a 13 pinion and 72 spur & it ran SLOW as ****. Put in a 18 pinion and 72 spur and ran fast. ***. Exactly what pinion and spur are you guys running with your novak?

[RC Shocker]

I ran a 70/14 for just a little while before the slipper melted to the spur.

I bought a 72t spur & parts last night. Now I will be geared at 72/14 and will be giving it's first run this afternoon.

Gearing for top end speed runs will thermal your system. You need to monitor it after ever pass and make sure it is not running to much hotter than 160*.

[Wallot]

you dont have much choice as very high rations are needed for HV setup (72/14) recommended.

strobe is a great option but only 51T spur gears are available so it wont work with high RPM novak. you can get a 65T spur for strobe but requires some modification and cutting

[B L A D E]

Sounds like a sweet truck. It will never end, you have caughten "the bug"

Vids

[RC Shocker]

Yeah, I got it pretty bad.

I dont think I will be considering the strobe slipper at this time.

I am pretty anxious to get the GM single speed conversion next. And I definately need to be considering high end diff's too.

[cobra commander]

You won't believe me but I ran stock gearing with 7 cells in my 6.5. This will not work on a 4400 but the upgraded rotor will help it. I recently changed to a 17/66. My hobbyshop did not have any more 18 tooth pinions. I run on the street and in a field beside my house with no thermals or excess heat in 2nd gear! My batteries are IB3600's with 4200's on the way. I may have to gear down with the 4200's though. If you climb use 1st gear. As for diff's I run 3.3 cases with 3mm aluminum diff cups in the rear and 2mm aluminum in the front. The rear was 2mm also but upon shredding off the screw heads I re-drilled them for 3mm hex heads. Drilling the stock Traxxas gear is a bear! To countersink the holes I used a dremel.