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  1. #41
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    I am going to have to try this but what about just using a wider servo horn? If it sits out further on the leg it will have more travel when engaged causing the brakes to pinch more.

  2. #42
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    A longer servo arm won't do too much. At full braking, the brake arm lever is pushing against the tranny. You'll eventually strip out the servo trying that.
    CrazyNut,1-ch pipe,polished header,CVDs,5625MG,6v

  3. #43
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    well, what about switching the radio to from 50/50 to 70/30 or watever it is, and put a longer servo horn onto the ignition side so that "30" could open the throttle all the way, and the brakes have alot more travel?
    WARNING:exposure to nitro can lead to drain bamage

  4. #44
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    [QUOTE=Larain60]...I swapped out the plastic bushings in the pivot arm where the brake rods connect (back by tranny) and installed bearings. QUOTE]

    What size bearings?

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jatomann
    well, what about switching the radio to from 50/50 to 70/30 or watever it is, and put a longer servo horn onto the ignition side so that "30" could open the throttle all the way, and the brakes have alot more travel?
    The 70/30 option doesn't change travel. It only changes how quickly it gets there. For more precise throttle control.

    The secret to the brakes is knowing what/how to adjust, doing the fuel tubing mod (or something similar), and replacing the brake disc as often as you should.
    CrazyNut,1-ch pipe,polished header,CVDs,5625MG,6v

  6. #46
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    well i just did the brake mod and i realy like it, locks my wheels up it finley stops lol good job comeing up with this mod

  7. #47
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    to let you all know. I did the spring mod on the opposite side to help pull it back to center and just replaced the original spring with stiff fuel line. When i had the linkage off i did do bearings and aslo readjusted the bolts that hold the pads on. It stops well now for what it is. A stronger servo would make it even better. I can see why you put the bic on. I did not right now due to no bics here.
    Good job on this mod.

  8. #48
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    When using this mod and running on pavement, doesn't the car just spin around on you when braking?
    Jato 3.3 - fast enough

  9. #49
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    not if you don't induce the spin......meaning, if you were to lock the brakes from a straight line, it should come to a straight stop...if not, you have some allignment stuff to correct.

  10. #50
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    Thanks, I'll give the mod a shot.
    Jato 3.3 - fast enough

  11. #51
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    Yeah, so did the mod leaving about 1/8" of fuel line sticking out for a "buffer" and it shattered the brake disc after about 10 stops lol

    But for those10 stops it certainly did stop well (although with small spin at the end)

    What did I do wrong?

    My only complaint is there is no "in between" with this mod, certainly not going to be able to brake while turning.
    Jato 3.3 - fast enough

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastGT94
    Yeah, so did the mod leaving about 1/8" of fuel line sticking out for a "buffer" and it shattered the brake disc after about 10 stops lol

    But for those10 stops it certainly did stop well (although with small spin at the end)

    What did I do wrong?

    My only complaint is there is no "in between" with this mod, certainly not going to be able to brake while turning.

    you may have had the brake nut too tight or maybe the calipers were adjusted for more braking....that's my guess...i go through a set of brake pads about once a week.

  13. #53
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    Set of brake pads or a disc per week?

    And sorry, what do you mean by calipers adjusted more for braking?
    Jato 3.3 - fast enough

  14. #54
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    bump to the first page and i just did this mod on my jato and works great!

  15. #55
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    Now someone figure out how to make the Jato brake straight and not fishtail when you lock the brakes!

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by danman421
    Now someone figure out how to make the Jato brake straight and not fishtail when you lock the brakes!

    the fish tailing has more to do with the tires than it has to do with the brakes.

    if you're running on road, foam tires are the only thing that will make you stop in a straight line.

    off road-?? without some fish tailing?? welll.......that dog just dosen't hunt that way.

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazyjato777
    the fish tailing has more to do with the tires than it has to do with the brakes.

    if you're running on road, foam tires are the only thing that will make you stop in a straight line.

    off road-?? without some fish tailing?? welll.......that dog just dosen't hunt that way.
    I am on road and have the 1/8th scale foams and I fish tail... any suggestions. This is however when I LOCK the brakes.

  18. #58
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    then it's probably the traction compound you're using or lack of it.....try this stuff.....apply it 3 times to all 4 tires, and let it dry. you ought to be able to run just about all day on that with no fish tailing at all.

    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJDB6&P=ML

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazyjato777
    then it's probably the traction compound you're using or lack of it.....try this stuff.....apply it 3 times to all 4 tires, and let it dry. you ought to be able to run just about all day on that with no fish tailing at all.

    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJDB6&P=ML
    Thats exactly what I use except I only put one coat on...

  20. #60
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    why not upgrade the servo? Wouldn't this work as well? sorry for the noob question I don't even have my Jato yet.. UPS should be here with it Thur. I want to make sure I have everything on hand to fix any problems.

    Bic Pen and some fuel line.

  21. #61
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    i use a bit of an old servo saver spring instead of the fuel tube or soft spring on most RC's..

    its a bit stiffer but has a little give, which helps with brake feel.






    (yes i know its a tmaxx pictured but the concept is the same)
    Im no expert. i just play one on the TRX forums

  22. #62
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    I like the spring on the caliper idea... gonna try that tomorrow.
    Silly fast Jato 3.3

  23. #63
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    here is my solution to the Jato's braking issue...the combination of jato75's brake mod and switching the stock servo to a high torque servo work very well together IMO...this is my brake setup and i can lock my brakes every time if i want them too, and when throttle is applied it sets my brakes to neutral so i get no brake drag what soever while the truck is in motion...so here goes...first i swapped the TRX 2018 w/the TRX 2055(seeing i upgraded my steering servo), then instead of using the piece of bic pen or fuel line like many others do, what i have done is used a 13/16" long piece of 1/4" X .049 aluminum tube, a 5/16" X 1/4" round rubber bushing, & a 3/32" shaft collar...first i unattached the brake linkage from the servo horn and then removed all the parts from the linkage...then slid the shaft collar on the brake linkage followed by putting the rod guide back on then reattached it to the servo horn, put the rubber bushing on, then spring, slid the aluminum tubing over the spring and finally the brake adjustment dial...*** caution anyone that wants to use this version of the brake mod, as i have found it works very well but if its not carefully adjusted it can actually apply the brakes when you apply your throttle all the way...i noticed that if the brakes are forced to the "un-applied/off" position to far, the cam will actually push the brake piston out against the brake pad(but not as far as when you actually apply the brakes in the correct direction)...so to properly adjust them you have to make sure the rear wheels are lifted up off the ground, and fully apply the throttle...then move the brake linkage around to find the spot where you get no resistance from the brakes when you spin the wheels...now slide the shaft collar against the servo horn on the brake linkage and tighten it down...with this mod you will get brakes w/the ability to lock them up and be controllable at the same time because of the rubber bushing giving you some leeway, and you get no brake drag while truck is in motion...w/this setup you will have very consistent brakes providing periodic adjustments are made to the screws on the pads due to normal pad/disk wear...the only other thing i can think of possibly adding to this mod to make it better would be by upgrading the stock brake cam lever to the Golden Horizons aluminum brake cam lever...well on to the pic...

    "Growing OLD is mandatory, Growing UP is optional"

  24. #64
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    im using the stock 2018 and can lock the brakes easily.

    (pure speculation) but i think a lot of ppls poor braking probs are due to incorrect adjustment of BOTH linkages and the brake pad bolts.

    ask yourself this: is the little black brake arm thats mounted on the tranny getting too close to the tranny when the brakes are applied? yes = incorrect adjustment.

    the closer it gets to touching the tranny the more it rotates PAST the ideal position, causing weak brake strength.

    loosen the linkage right off and push most of the linkage back so you open the brakes right up.
    adjust brake bolts so they are 1/8 turn from binding.
    then make very minor tweak to the thumb dial on the brake linkage to "fine tune" it.

    that brake arm on the tranny should be out closer to the brake disc at neutral, and only getting maybe 1/2 way between the disc + tranny when brakes are locking up.

    seen a similar thing many times before with Tmaxx's, 4Tecs and revo's.

    people just keep winding the thumb dial tighter more and more, while claiming weak brakes.

    remember: brake bolts for major adjustment.. and thumb dial to fine tune.
    Im no expert. i just play one on the TRX forums

  25. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOLA JATO
    Don't do the Integy thing, big mistake with anything made by them. If you take dissamble the brake pads & shoes, remove the square peg that fist in the trans, mine was gummed up, have not had a problem since, no other mods other than a better servo and rechargable flat pack. As mentoined before by others, Jato's only have rear brakes.
    NOLA JATO:
    hey i read on one of the treads that you removed the square peg on the trany for the brakes....mying basicly melted on to the trany ...how did you remove it?, if you dont mind me asking

  26. #66
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    im gonna try wat nitroRcer said and see if it works.
    Last edited by Jatoman00; 10-13-2007 at 08:13 PM.
    -Jato2.5
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  27. #67
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    jato75 is god for this mod. everyone should do it. i did it last year, and it's been sitting for a few months. Just took it out, still stops on a dime. granted i have other probs now, but the brakes still stop.

  28. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by juggalowelder
    jato75 is god for this mod. everyone should do it. i did it last year, and it's been sitting for a few months. Just took it out, still stops on a dime. granted i have other probs now, but the brakes still stop.
    Mine does too! I still swear by this mod!
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  29. #69
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    I tried Jato75's mod and all it did was cause my brakes to get exteremly hot and they would not work at all. I went back and tore every thing apart and tried reassembling to the T by how he had said to do it and had the same problem. My brakes worked way better before the mod (original set up), if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Any suggestions on how to fix my brake issues besides going back to stock since it seemed to work? Right now the truck is put up due to a failed OWB so when I fix that I might as well fix the breaks at the same time.
    wanna race?

  30. #70
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    Guys the links that Jato75 has posted it are broken, anyone can repost them and let us see this mod ?.

    Thanks

  31. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by superfly13_69
    A longer servo arm won't do too much. At full braking, the brake arm lever is pushing against the tranny. You'll eventually strip out the servo trying that.
    If your brake arm is touching the side of the transmission you have your brakes set wrong. Here is where your brake arm should be. If itís not you have to back off the thumb wheel on the servo and tighten the bolts that go through the pads until the arm is in the right spot then reset the thumb wheel.



  32. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidS302
    If your brake arm is touching the side of the transmission you have your brakes set wrong. Here is where your brake arm should be. If itís not you have to back off the thumb wheel on the servo and tighten the bolts that go through the pads until the arm is in the right spot then reset the thumb wheel.


    that's what mine were doing, and I was getting REALLY frustrated with it, so everybody who says it doesn't work, CHECK YOUR LINKAGE!!!!!
    Jato 3.3-Drilled Res & Light porting

  33. #73
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    How does fuel tubing due I have it now and it only worked for a tank and now the brakes are really bad again.
    Agree with slowenufs sig wheres the new 4 tec?

  34. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by jatodood
    How does fuel tubing due I have it now and it only worked for a tank and now the brakes are really bad again.
    Fuel tubing gets compressed, not allowing this mod to work completely. What you need is a pen tubing. Simply cut an ideal size of pen and insert the fuel tubing into the pen piece and pop it into place, or just put the pen piece. Make sure you adjust your brakes/throttle linkages accordingly.

    Hope all goes well.
    If money grew on trees - I'd own Traxxas.

  35. #75
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    I did that and barly any improvment from the fuel tuning. I snaped my brake disc
    Agree with slowenufs sig wheres the new 4 tec?

  36. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by jatodood
    How does fuel tubing due I have it now and it only worked for a tank and now the brakes are really bad again.
    thats why i use a piece of aluminum rod and a hard rubber bushing as my brake mod...and it has never failed me so far, locks up the brakes every time if i want to...and the bushing works as a cushion so i can still "lightly" apply the brakes as well...most important thing to remember about the brakes is adjusting them properly by tightening the pad bolts, not just wrenching down the black adjustment dial...that dial is for fine tuning the brakes ONLY...
    "Growing OLD is mandatory, Growing UP is optional"

  37. #77
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    Well my brake disc or pads are being retarded or somthing because I did the mod with pen tubing AND fuel tubing but no strong braking power, when I replace the brake disc and pads will that fix the problem?
    Agree with slowenufs sig wheres the new 4 tec?

  38. #78
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    adjust the pads...

    yeah i remember the brake situation, did the fuel tubing, did the springs, did the fuel tubing and springs... and finally settled on just putting a set screw stopper on the end that the servo arm pushes against under braking and adjusted it so the brakes came on when it pushed against it and this allows for some ease into hard braking... this works great haven't had to adjust it since i did it and i put about one and a half gallons through it since i did it...
    Smooth is Fast. Slow is Smooth. Therefore, Slow MUST equal Fast.

  39. #79
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    LOL!!!!!!! I was being stupid and wanted to see how strong my brake disc was and you probably know what happened
    Agree with slowenufs sig wheres the new 4 tec?

  40. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidS302
    If your brake arm is touching the side of the transmission you have your brakes set wrong. Here is where your brake arm should be. If itís not you have to back off the thumb wheel on the servo and tighten the bolts that go through the pads until the arm is in the right spot then reset the thumb wheel.


    how do you get it to go that far out.
    where did that rock come from!!!!!

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