Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 87
  1. #1
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,257

    Jato brakes...the final chapter..

    Ok....I spent about 3 hours last night reading over all of the Jato brake mods and I've finally found something that I think works well....
    but before i go any further, there has been alot of debate on the fact that the stock brakes can work correctly if set up right....

    If someone can make the stock set-up work, God Bless you....I can't..

    I tried the set screw collar on the left side of the servo horn with the fuel tubing, harder springs etc...NOTHING was working.....then about 2AM I found something that did...atleast for today...

    I've run about half a quart through it and it's locking the brakes EVERY time.

    I took the stock spring off and put a piece of fuel tubing inside of the hollow end of a nylon pen shaft.(basically i took a ball point pen, took the insides out and hacked off about an inch and put the tubing inside of that.)..I rebuilt it like it was the spring with the nylon adjustor on the end like always....and started it up and WOW....the problem with the fuel tubing is that it flexed too much and even with heat shrink on top of it, it would stop working after about the 5th or 6th tank for some reason....soooo....I thought of this...


    Here's the thing...I want there to be no drag on my transmission when i spin the wheels...they oughtta spin freely without resistance...that way there is no drag on the engine. So that's what i did...i backed off of the hex screws on the brake pads just enough for the wheels to spin freely then added this mod.

    When I warmed it up, and got on my first WOT...i locked those brakes up and it WORKED. FINALLY!!.....I was skeptical, and went on for over an hour just doing WOT runs. ....the key was to find something that wouldn't flex almost at all.....i have a rubber stopper in between my servo horn and the fuel/pen tubing for a little give to keep from stripping the servo, but after 3 hours...i locked the brakes every time....the servo was a stock servo, and showed no signs of any wear inside....

    I'm not sure if this would work for track conditions, etc...this is a street set up for HIGH SPEED BRAKING....

    My thinking is this, and please correct me if I'm wrong, i'm still learning...

    The servo hits the rubberstop..that thing is about an 1/8 inch wide...compressed, it hits the pen tube and the servo locks the brake...the harder my brake, the harder the pen resists the rubber stop and the harder the plates on the brakes compress are compressed....after that 1/8th inch there is no more give...no more drag and brakes that work. Like throttle control, there now seems to be brake control over 65mph...

    I can't think of why this would strip the gears inside the servo.you're still applying the same force as a spring or to apply drag on the plates of the brakes on the stock set up..resistance is resistance, just applied at a different place..so after one long post, i think i might have success.

    BTW thanks to NitroExpress for coming up with the start to this idea in a past thread.....U DA MAN!!
    Last edited by jato75; 10-08-2006 at 03:20 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    479
    how about a pic

  3. #3
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,257
    Here's a link...sorry about the photo quality...this was with my camera phone

    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...5/HPIM1399.jpg

    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...5/HPIM1398.jpg

    it's the white thing on the left...

    and my ride...with a better camera

    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g235/jato75/16.jpg
    Last edited by jato75; 10-08-2006 at 03:46 PM.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    479
    hey man ur driverside tires are on backwards!lol

  5. #5
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,257
    yeah...I know.... .....it's been mentioned before.
    Last edited by jato75; 10-08-2006 at 04:12 PM.

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    813
    Looks good, but i don't understand why people complain about the Jato's brakes. I'll admit they take a while to slow down the car, but if the thing is going 45-50mph then its not going to stop on a dime. Now also think, its rear wheel drive which means (when its stock) you only get rear brakes. Now on a Revo you can see a difference. (The front drops down under braking) Front brakes help out a lot. My brakes on my Jato are stock and have worked great for me so far. But really what do you expect out of rear brakes alone?
    Revo and Jato. Starterbox is the way to go.

  7. #7
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    72
    Dude that Body is nice? how did you do those flames?

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    VEGAS
    Posts
    829
    ya u think you could get those in better quality cant quit tell what u did but heres my best chance of saying it in english

    u took off the spring and put a piece of tubing from a pen in its place now i have a broken apart pen sitting in front of me are you talking about where the ink goes or is my pen retarted

    am i right or wrong or is there somethig i missed?"

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    326
    Quote Originally Posted by jato75
    Ok....I spent about 3 hours last night reading over all of the Jato brake mods and I've finally found something that I think works well....
    but before i go any further, there has been alot of debate on the fact that the stock brakes can work correctly if set up right....
    If someone can make the stock set-up work, God Bless you....I can't..
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Nitro>I was sort of in the same situation. Some people were saying that they never had any trouble with the stock brakes. Sure wasn't my situation. I tried it all and never could get adequate braking.
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------
    I took the stock spring off and put a piece of fuel tubing inside of the hollow end of a nylon pen shaft.(basically i took a ball point pen, took the insides out and hacked off about an inch and put the tubing inside of that.)..I rebuilt it like it was the spring with the nylon adjuster on the end like always....and started it up and WOW....the problem with the fuel tubing is that it flexed too much and even with heat shrink on top of it, it would stop working after about the 5th or 6th tank for some reason....soooo....I thought of this...
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Nitro>I did something similar. I replaced the spring with a cutoff section from a ball point pen. Any tubing could be used, this was just handy. Then I put a collar on the brake linkage in the vicinity of the carburetor. I put fuel line between the servo horn and the new collar. Then I installed a soft, long spring from the area between the servo horn and the fuel line. I attached the other end of the spring to the rear sway bar mounting location. This guarantees that the brake will always release fully. Another important
    addition is a high torque servo to give some power to the disk brake clamping action. Careful adjustment gives me no drag and massive braking.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    I'm not sure if this would work for track conditions, etc...this is a street set up for HIGH SPEED BRAKING....
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    Nitro>It will.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    I can't think of why this would strip the gears inside the servo.you're still applying the same force as a spring or to apply drag on the plates of the brakes on the stock set up..resistance is resistance, just applied at a different place..so after one long post, i think i might have success.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Since there is little or no give in the linkage assembly, make sure that the servo isn't trying to push too far beyond the stop. An adjustable transmitter makes this easier to do.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    BTW thanks to NitroExpress for coming up with the start to this idea in a past
    thread.....U DA MAN!!
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------
    Nitro>Thanks. I think the secret to super braking is using a high torque servo and taking all give out of the system. The release spring is just insurance.

  10. #10
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Cambridge, England
    Posts
    1,837
    with my jato when the breaks stoped working it wasnt that it was adjusted wrong or i needed to add springs in random places or buy a high torque servo, none of that would work. my problem was that the plasic thing that moves the break cam wasnt turning the break cam, because the plasic was too weak and went round on the inside where it turns teh break cam (if that made any sence), so any force put on it moved the plasic thing, but not the break cam.
    Last edited by cholyoake; 10-09-2006 at 09:39 AM.

  11. #11
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,257
    Quote Originally Posted by jato4life2
    ya u think you could get those in better quality cant quit tell what u did but heres my best chance of saying it in english

    u took off the spring and put a piece of tubing from a pen in its place now i have a broken apart pen sitting in front of me are you talking about where the ink goes or is my pen retarted

    am i right or wrong or is there somethig i missed?"
    yeah... fuel tubing inside of the pen....make sure you take the inside of the pen out first.

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    314
    Quote Originally Posted by stlrivals
    Dude that Body is nice? how did you do those flames?
    You can find them all over on ebay.

  13. #13
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,257
    Quote Originally Posted by gmaxxinbashin
    You can find them all over on ebay.

    yup...that's where i got that one.

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    508
    Quote Originally Posted by jato75
    yeah... fuel tubing inside of the pen....make sure you take the inside of the pen out first.
    THANK-YOU! THANK-YOU! THANK-YOU!
    After playing in the mud & muck last weekend, my brakes have been garbage and I'd done what I thought was everything to get them right. Finally, tonight I sat down and did a little reading. After scuffing the disk & cleaning the plates, I employed your modification and it stops on a dime! And that's with the Moabs on it! I can't wait to see how well it stops tomorrow in the daylight w/ street tires on! Thanks for the help!
    EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER
    No Limit RC of Virginia

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    VEGAS
    Posts
    829
    yea man i have to try that out

  16. #16
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,257
    Quote Originally Posted by bmcswusnavy
    THANK-YOU! THANK-YOU! THANK-YOU!
    After playing in the mud & muck last weekend, my brakes have been garbage and I'd done what I thought was everything to get them right. Finally, tonight I sat down and did a little reading. After scuffing the disk & cleaning the plates, I employed your modification and it stops on a dime! And that's with the Moabs on it! I can't wait to see how well it stops tomorrow in the daylight w/ street tires on! Thanks for the help!

    Glad to help, and thanks to NitroExpress for being the mad scientist behind the theory of this mod.

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    st pete fl
    Posts
    790
    can you take some better pics of it i dont get it thanks a bunch
    garage,Jato-revopicco26-savage axial28-

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    508
    Here ya go.....

    EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER
    No Limit RC of Virginia

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    ohio
    Posts
    388
    why so much fuel line?

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    508
    When I first installed the roll bar, I trimmed it way down and the car ran way too lean. So when I replaced it, instead of trimming it down to the OEM length, I left all 36" on there to see if it made a difference and sure enough, it did. It seems to idle and run smoother with it long like that. Might all be in my head but it sure isn't hurting anything like that.
    EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER
    No Limit RC of Virginia

  21. #21
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    119
    yea man...i had the same problem with the short tubing...the car would run lean and idk...so with the more tubing it runs a lot smoother and its easier to tune the motor because the small tubing when it shook around the little bit in the lines would cause it to starve for gas...but the more lines allows to have more gas in the line so less tendency for error...i had to do the same thing and my friends all rag on me for doing that too...

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    508
    It's all about trial and error and finding what works for you....
    EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER
    No Limit RC of Virginia

  23. #23
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    el paso TX
    Posts
    171
    i got about half the amount of line as you no problems yet. but if i do run into somthing i will try.
    Last edited by elpaso Runner; 10-30-2006 at 06:43 PM.
    Good ole Jato.

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    508
    Quote Originally Posted by elpaso Runner
    i got about half the amount of line as you no problems yet. but if i do run into somthing i will try.
    I'm sure I could trim it down some but when it comes down to the way it runs... If it ain't broke-I DON'T FIX IT!
    EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER
    No Limit RC of Virginia

  25. #25
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    north carolina
    Posts
    1,201
    guys i have a solution to your line problems, just get 2 big daddy fuel filters take the guts out and run a shorter line aroung the rear of the motor to toh carb, like slayden has his ran


    as for the brakes, i have fuel tubing on mine but where the cam turns on the tranny, the arm hits the trans a bit premature, i took out mr dremel and ground down 1mm of the trans and .5mm off the arm
    jeremie

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Santa Cruz CA
    Posts
    302
    i haven't tryed this mod yet but when i need it i will but personaly i like the carbon fiber disk set up made by intergy

  27. #27
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Commiefornia
    Posts
    898
    I say we make a clean locked version of this post with a FAQ at the bottom and then locking it.

    Two of the FAQs is:

    Q:What type of pen tubing do I use?

    A: BIC Ball point pen tubing is perfect.

    O: What size tubing do I need?

    A: Med or small.
    Traxxas owner since 6/02 and back in the game!

  28. #28
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    21
    N00b question, bear with me.

    You said:

    Quote Originally Posted by jato75
    i have a rubber stopper in between my servo horn and the fuel/pen tubing for a little give to keep from stripping the servo, but after 3 hours...i locked the brakes every time....the servo was a stock servo, and showed no signs of any wear inside....

    The servo hits the rubberstop..that thing is about an 1/8 inch wide...compressed
    Where can I buy the rubberstops in order to complete this mod? I just want to make sure I get the right size/kind when I do this mod. Thanks.

  29. #29
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    new orleans
    Posts
    1,406
    Don't do the Integy thing, big mistake with anything made by them. If you take dissamble the brake pads & shoes, remove the square peg that fist in the trans, mine was gummed up, have not had a problem since, no other mods other than a better servo and rechargable flat pack. As mentoined before by others, Jato's only have rear brakes.

  30. #30
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Commiefornia
    Posts
    898
    Quote Originally Posted by Jato287
    N00b question, bear with me.

    You said:



    Where can I buy the rubberstops in order to complete this mod? I just want to make sure I get the right size/kind when I do this mod. Thanks.
    If not mistaken, he is talking about fuel lining. Basic small or med will work.
    Traxxas owner since 6/02 and back in the game!

  31. #31
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,257
    Quote Originally Posted by Jato287
    N00b question, bear with me.

    You said:



    Where can I buy the rubberstops in order to complete this mod? I just want to make sure I get the right size/kind when I do this mod. Thanks.
    I took out the rubber stop ages ago...it's not necessary..i just used it as a buffer to make sure the pen tubing wasn't too much for the servo to handle. obviously, it's not.

    use the same size fuel tubing you use for your lines and the bic pen tube and you'll be set.

    take care.

  32. #32
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by jato75
    I took out the rubber stop ages ago...it's not necessary..i just used it as a buffer to make sure the pen tubing wasn't too much for the servo to handle. obviously, it's not.

    use the same size fuel tubing you use for your lines and the bic pen tube and you'll be set.

    take care.
    Thanks for answering my question! And on behalf of everyone, thank you for discovering this easy and cheap mod, I can't wait to do it!

  33. #33
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    101
    I just did this pen and tube mod for the brakes and it helps. Also a big improvement was gained when I swapped out the plastic bushings in the pivot arm where the brake rods connect (back by tranny) and installed bearings. The bearings prevent "leaning" unlike the plastic bushings.

    Good luck all.

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    st pete fl
    Posts
    790
    thats a good idea
    garage,Jato-revopicco26-savage axial28-

  35. #35
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    5
    long fuel line makes no sense at all. the shorter the higher pressure so you would have to lean it out....

  36. #36
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,257
    Quote Originally Posted by gbizzo
    long fuel line makes no sense at all. the shorter the higher pressure so you would have to lean it out....

    HUH???........

  37. #37
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Willmar, MN
    Posts
    868
    its a brake mod, this is nothing to do with the fuel and exhaust....

  38. #38
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Clayton , NC
    Posts
    131
    i used a piece of fuel tubing over the spring...i think its about the same concept....it works great....helps slow it down alot quicker
    Hyper 8 Pro , Kyosho ATV w/ TRX 2.5R , Jato 3.3

  39. #39
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Boise Id
    Posts
    31
    I think I might try that too. I could use a little more brake also.
    2.5R, resonator pipe, Bow-Tie tires, roto start

  40. #40
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,257
    Quote Originally Posted by v4whlracr
    i used a piece of fuel tubing over the spring...i think its about the same concept....it works great....helps slow it down alot quicker

    i tried that, and it wore out really fast...i recommend the pen tube for the long haul.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •