Ok....I spent about 3 hours last night reading over all of the Jato brake mods and I've finally found something that I think works well....
but before i go any further, there has been alot of debate on the fact that the stock brakes can work correctly if set up right....
If someone can make the stock set-up work, God Bless you....I can't..

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Nitro>I was sort of in the same situation. Some people were saying that they never had any trouble with the stock brakes. Sure wasn't my situation. I tried it all and never could get adequate braking.
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I took the stock spring off and put a piece of fuel tubing inside of the hollow end of a nylon pen shaft.(basically i took a ball point pen, took the insides out and hacked off about an inch and put the tubing inside of that.)..I rebuilt it like it was the spring with the nylon adjuster on the end like always....and started it up and WOW....the problem with the fuel tubing is that it flexed too much and even with heat shrink on top of it, it would stop working after about the 5th or 6th tank for some reason....soooo....I thought of this...
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Nitro>I did something similar. I replaced the spring with a cutoff section from a ball point pen. Any tubing could be used, this was just handy. Then I put a collar on the brake linkage in the vicinity of the carburetor. I put fuel line between the servo horn and the new collar. Then I installed a soft, long spring from the area between the servo horn and the fuel line. I attached the other end of the spring to the rear sway bar mounting location. This guarantees that the brake will always release fully. Another important
addition is a high torque servo to give some power to the disk brake clamping action. Careful adjustment gives me no drag and massive braking.
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I'm not sure if this would work for track conditions, etc...this is a street set up for HIGH SPEED BRAKING....
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Nitro>It will.
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I can't think of why this would strip the gears inside the servo.you're still applying the same force as a spring or to apply drag on the plates of the brakes on the stock set up..resistance is resistance, just applied at a different place..so after one long post, i think i might have success.
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Since there is little or no give in the linkage assembly, make sure that the servo isn't trying to push too far beyond the stop. An adjustable transmitter makes this easier to do.
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BTW thanks to NitroExpress for coming up with the start to this idea in a past
thread.....U DA MAN!!