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  1. #1
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    Wierd temp range...

    I have the 2.5 and it seems to run, idle and take off great. But whenever i take the temp after running it hard it seems to read around 180-215 degrees. Its not rich but not very lean. Also when ever it does shut off if i dont give it gas for like 10 seconds its hard to get it to start after that. Are these things bad? (i run 20 percent and yes i check the temp at the glow plug right away)
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  2. #2
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    During the difficult re-start, is it like bogged or like waiting for fuel to arrive?

    The former would mean that you must lean your LSN and the latter would mean the opposite.

    In either case, it seems like your HSN is not properly adjusted in the first place but that your LSN compensates either by being too lean or too rich.

    If you read the head temp after prolonged WOT (not after “running it hard”) you would get more clues on your HSN setting.

  3. #3
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    i would lean it out to 220 to 250. the 2.5/2.5r and 3.3 are ment to be run 220 to 270 degs.
    i run mine at 240 on half tank which is about 230 on full and 250 on less than half tank.i get good power from my 2.5r. and i think what the problem is it bogs out due to too much fuel goin in the carb in other words its too rich
    Last edited by rustyrevo2; 09-01-2006 at 10:21 AM.
    fight for what you believe, no matter the risk

  4. #4
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    Mine ran at close to 290 and it ran nice a 190 once.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bucur
    During the difficult re-start, is it like bogged or like waiting for fuel to arrive?

    The former would mean that you must lean your LSN and the latter would mean the opposite.

    In either case, it seems like your HSN is not properly adjusted in the first place but that your LSN compensates either by being too lean or too rich.

    If you read the head temp after prolonged WOT (not after “running it hard”) you would get more clues on your HSN setting.
    My car isnt bogged when i try and re-start it, it just seems to wait for the fuel...but if i prime it it doesnt help. And i dont really want to mess with the needles to much because im not good at it. It seems to run good...till it dies, my main question is: Is it bad for the motor?
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  6. #6
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    As far as I can understand, your LSN would be lean, compensating for the rich setting of your HSN. Yes, this is bad for the engine but not as bad as a lean HSN.

    You must now lean out your HSN a little. 1/8 turns in could be enough but this would make your LSN even leaner. You must, therefore, richen your LSN (after you are done with your HSN) by 1/8 turns at a time, until your engine runs fine at idle and takes off cleanly.

  7. #7
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    engine might be worn out. it happened to my rustler.
    ss5800 stampede, 2.5 jato, 2.5 rustler

  8. #8
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    I thing i found the problem....my duratrax temp gauge. I dont think it reads the temps right. Seems to me that the car is just over heating (its 85 degrees here). But ill try that lsn and the hsn and see what happens. Oh yeah, the motor better not be ****ing worn out its 2 weeks old!
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  9. #9
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    theres your problem right there. you need to set the emmisitivity to 77e for it to get a good reading. i figured something was wrong when my temp guage read over 400 degrees.
    ss5800 stampede, 2.5 jato, 2.5 rustler

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by gatman90
    theres your problem right there. you need to set the emmisitivity to 77e for it to get a good reading. i figured something was wrong when my temp guage read over 400 degrees.
    I set my emmisitivity to 77e after doing some testing that convinced me that the readings from my gauge were about 20 degrees low. Later I put on a onboard Venom meter (thermocouple type). The two readings were within one degree of each other. Most good tuners do not rely on a temp gauge to tune. They only use them for a reference. But it's nice knowing that my readouts are probably closer to true than they were before.

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