A quick post about 4X4 'Pedes

[batjerk]

Well, preliminary experimentation has shown that it might very well be possible to use 4-Tec steering blocks TRA4336 to convert a Stampede into a 4X4. They already carry 5X11X4 bearings and the stock slider fits through it nicely. It causes the pivot point to be roughly lined up with the U-joint. This prevents the steering from swinging the drive shaft into the shocks.

There will need to be some slight modification to the stub axle. The hole for the pin is too far from the outside bearing to prevent axial motion of the axle. A hole drilled through the stub axle closer to the yoke end will solve that minor problem. It also will allow the axle to extend further through the front wheel which will allow for more thread engagement with the wheel nut.

I cut a stock caster block up to accept the 4-Tec steering block. I have it in upside-down to keep the steering block more inboard. I also used the 4-Tec steering block upside down to align the U-joint with the pivot point better. It also pushes the steering block outboard more. This may be an area that deserves revision or at least another look.

It appears that the 4-Tec blocks will still be wider by about 0.2 inches per side. That may be unacceptable, but time will tell. I still need to obtain more parts to complete the experiment. I am sure that the front will have a wider track than the rear, but this could even prove to be advantageous.

Of course one could use 4-Tec blocks in the rear as well to make the front and rear tracks the same width. Plus, there would be adjustable rear toe!

As this experiment progresses I will keep you posted and will get pix up if it proves worth the trouble. I really like this deal because wider is better! And it will keep the ol' 'Pede all Traxxas. (Well, except for the chassis as that will have to be custom.)

[razer]

Originally posted by batjerk
The hole for the pin is too far from the outside bearing to prevent axial motion of the axle. A hole drilled through the stub axle closer to the yoke end will solve that minor problem. ...It appears that the 4-Tec blocks will still be wider by about 0.2 inches per side....

How much too far? (In mm if possible) The drilling is easier said than done. If you use spacers between the yoke end of the stub axle & the inner bearing, you should be able to eliminate the extra play. Doing it on the inside instead of on the outside will make it a little narrower in the front, keeping it closer to the same width as the rear.

Edit - Here's some spacers:
5x8x2.5mm plastic
5x8x1.0mm plastic
5x8x0.5mm Teflon/fiber
5x8x?mm metal (I'll be able to tell you the thickness of these next week.)

[batjerk]

I don't know how much too far. I couldn't find my caliper.

As to the distance wider, I was eyeballing (with a ruler) from the outer hingepin to the outside bearing face. I thought about shimming the inside, but doing so also moves the U-joint further away from the pivot point. But, I doubt it would be significant.

For the drilling, I was planning on using a spare wheel hex as a drill bushing. I suspect that will work. I do have access to a drill press. Though the shimming would certainly be easier. I'll keep that in mind.

I could use the steering blocks right side up and that will narrow it up some. I just have to figure out a way to keep the camber link (turn buckle) in a rigid state so that the dynamic steering camber will work like it is supposed to. Of course, I may not really need to, I am speculating on that point at this time. I didn't put a whole lot of time into investigation since I had to work last night. I will look at and test in much greater detail after work today.

[E-maxxin_man]

Hmm, this sounds great. I dislike the Swami c-hubs as my steering sucks with them becuase of the design of the RPM carriers I use.
This might be what I need, some pics would be nice as well.
You can get them in aluminum too, and still do any modification needed?